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Posted

PC's are 5 volt no? Versus 12 volt on our bikes....

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Posted

In my experience, 12v rated fans seem to be more common than fans that won't take 12v. I would search for something like, "120mm 12v IP67 fan".

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Still working great. They are 2x 140mm & 2x 120mm. 140’s at the front & 120’s at the rear on each rad. They are lighter than the OEM one, they suck air through the rads which increases their efficiency. They are cable tied to the rads & each other. The fairing panels need a little trim where the air outlet openings cross the fan frames, just to stop putting pressure on the fan frames, which then puts it on the rads.

 

There is better airflow around the engine once the OEM fan is off the left rad. I dropped the bike last October & the left fans survived fine, as did the rad. 

 

All PC’s are 5v computer core, 12v for fan cooling & additional services. So most PC/Server fans are 12v !

 

 

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10 hours ago, Mohawk said:

Still working great. They are 2x 140mm & 2x 120mm. 140’s at the front & 120’s at the rear on each rad. They are lighter than the OEM one, they suck air through the rads which increases their efficiency. They are cable tied to the rads & each other. The fairing panels need a little trim where the air outlet openings cross the fan frames, just to stop putting pressure on the fan frames, which then puts it on the rads.

 

There is better airflow around the engine once the OEM fan is off the left rad. I dropped the bike last October & the left fans survived fine, as did the rad. 

 

All PC’s are 5v computer core, 12v for fan cooling & additional services. So most PC/Server fans are 12v !

 

 

Plus the efficiency of fans has definitely improved in the computer world. I don't know what the amp draw of your setup is, but I wouldn't be entirely surprised to find your 4 fans plus electric water pump don't draw much more than the stock fan.

 

A really ambitious sort could probably hunt down a two stage thermostat switch that fits the stock bung in the radiator, add a second relay, and have the fans come on two at a lower temp and two at a higher. I've been kicking this around since I saw that first post. I see even more potential benefit to the 6th gen, considering the R/R location right on top of the fan-less right radiator. That thing has to just cook when not moving.

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Posted

More total airflow, but less where you need it. You have to consider the size and shape of your radiators and the factory vents: the key isn't just flow, but flow past the cooling fins. Mohawk's setup already out-flows the stock system by half, and I don't think you can underestimate the value of having fans on both radiators. 

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Posted

Thank you for the responses. They really helped out. When the bike is out of the commission, will try to do this mod. 

One last question. How loud do you reckon our radiator fans are? Feel like, if it wasn't for the exhaust, the stock fan would be pretty damn loud. Some of these PC fans go from 20-45 db's with 45 vs.160 cfm ratings, respectively. 

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Posted

PC fans aren't going to like rain, much?

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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13 hours ago, Marvelicious said:

Plus the efficiency of fans has definitely improved in the computer world. I don't know what the amp draw of your setup is, but I wouldn't be entirely surprised to find your 4 fans plus electric water pump don't draw much more than the stock fan.

 

A really ambitious sort could probably hunt down a two stage thermostat switch that fits the stock bung in the radiator, add a second relay, and have the fans come on two at a lower temp and two at a higher. I've been kicking this around since I saw that first post. I see even more potential benefit to the 6th gen, considering the R/R location right on top of the fan-less right radiator. That thing has to just cook when not moving.

Davies Craig already have one as a module https://daviescraig.com.au/product/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444 

 

you can adjust the temp you want the first relay to switch and 10 secs later the second relay will operate. I have one fitted to my bike so I could set the temp I wanted the fan to come on. I fitted the probe in the hose that comes from the thermostat housing to the filler cap. I originally had a fan fitted to the primary radiator which would switch on first but I found it actually made things worse for the natural air flow when not operating. Since fitting the VTR fan blade to the original fan motor I don’t have any issues now.

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Posted

My setup is much less than stock fan. The OEM unit pulls 8-9amp momentarily on startup & 5amps continuous.

My combined fans pull 3amp continuous & no real startup load. I have 90-80 fan switch, on at 90C off at 80C.

The bike runs around 80C in normal UK weather, but will run around 84C when the ambient temperature is high.

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1 hour ago, JZH said:

PC fans aren't going to like rain, much?

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Exactly why I mentioned the IP67 rating... "computer fan" is a bit of a generic term, but there are tons of small fans available for many different purposes, all roughly similar in construction.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

38 minutes ago, Marooncobra said:

Davies Craig already have one as a module https://daviescraig.com.au/product/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444/digital-thermatic-fan-switch-12v-24v-0444 

 

you can adjust the temp you want the first relay to switch and 10 secs later the second relay will operate. I have one fitted to my bike so I could set the temp I wanted the fan to come on. I fitted the probe in the hose that comes from the thermostat housing to the filler cap. I originally had a fan fitted to the primary radiator which would switch on first but I found it actually made things worse for the natural air flow when not operating. Since fitting the VTR fan blade to the original fan motor I don’t have any issues now.

Neat, but too rich for my blood. I was thinking more of adding a second relay and putting one of these in the stock sensor location. I think that sensor is the right thread pitch (M14x1.5? Don't try it without double checking). 91C and 99C for the two switches if the specs I found are correct - 196F and 210F for the metric challenged.

 

Still, if all the 4 fan setup draws is 3 amps, who the hell cares! If the specs for that water pump are right, I was on the money: under 5 amps for all 4 fans plus water pump! That is a pretty slick setup all around Mohawk. I may have a new project for winter.

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Posted
On 8/22/2019 at 11:51 PM, Mohawk said:

Still working great. They are 2x 140mm & 2x 120mm. 140’s at the front & 120’s at the rear on each rad. They are lighter than the OEM one, they suck air through the rads which increases their efficiency. They are cable tied to the rads & each other. The fairing panels need a little trim where the air outlet openings cross the fan frames, just to stop putting pressure on the fan frames, which then puts it on the rads.

 

There is better airflow around the engine once the OEM fan is off the left rad. I dropped the bike last October & the left fans survived fine, as did the rad. 

 

All PC’s are 5v computer core, 12v for fan cooling & additional services. So most PC/Server fans are 12v !

 

 

Not to bring this thread from the dead but motorcycle season is starting and would love to know how all of it is holding up. On the cusp of trying your fan solution. 

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