WackenSS Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 Rear brake done. Mint cbr600f4 parts, 25 usd from eBay! Well within budget an 735grams lighter including the "spacer" Honda put between brake disc and axle. Of course I had to offset everything because that plate builds some. Turned out nice, and as usual - welds don't fit my "OEM look" style so its ground and shaped. I know it's not meant being for being upside down which means that bleeding is a biatc and the brake force pushes on the pad pin instead of the caliper holder, but its not often used and it will have to do as stage one of my brake upgrade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 This is the final product of the rear brake. Happy with it but I absolutely hate the brake pipe! I see no other solution as of now, so let's see when revision 2 comes around. Would be nice with integrated reservoir too, again revisions... It feels more and more like I'm making a protype and this is R/D. I was able to hide a lot of everything behind the footrest, got rid of the horrible hoses and brake light switch wire going everywhere. I don't want to cut of the heat shield mount on the footrest before I have testet that my pants will survive, so currently around 400g gone 👏 the brown paint will stay on for now and is due to me welding material on the lower part of the rest so I could have a threaded base for the brake switch and the banjos. I absolutely love the design of the footrest on the 5th gen so I would like to keep them as long as possible! It sure is a tight fit with the CBR caliper. I can not see a dual piston caliper ever making its place here with the 5spokes! Breakeline going to the banjo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 28 Member Contributer Share Posted March 28 I just used a 45degree banjo & ran the hose forward from the MC through the swingarm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 49 minutes ago, Mohawk said: I just used a 45degree banjo & ran the hose forward from the MC through the swingarm. I only have 90° left, and i tried a straight one, but did not want a hose this close to the bare headers. Are you also running without the heat shield? If so, is the heat radiation ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 29 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29 I have a carbon heat shield, which I backed with alloy from a disposable baking tray ! This is an early pic from 2012 with the old exhaust. You can see the Blue brake hose, goes over the cushion & into the square hole in left side of the swingarm. Comes out the drain hole underneath just in front of the eccentric hub to the VFR400/750 rear caliper ! I fitted a bleed screw banjo bolt to the M/C to make bleeding simple. This is it from 2016 with TBR exhaust & mini reservoir on the M/C. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer boOZZIE Posted March 29 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29 6 hours ago, WackenSS said: I only have 90° left, and i tried a straight one, but did not want a hose this close to the bare headers. Are you also running without the heat shield? If so, is the heat radiation ok? I ran without a heat shield for a while, all good except there must have been enough heat to soften the glue on my boot and ended up with a floppy sole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 6 hours ago, Mohawk said: I have a carbon heat shield, which I backed with alloy from a disposable baking tray ! This is an early pic from 2012 with the old exhaust. You can see the Blue brake hose, goes over the cushion & into the square hole in left side of the swingarm. Comes out the drain hole underneath just in front of the eccentric hub to the VFR400/750 rear caliper ! I fitted a bleed screw banjo bolt to the M/C to make bleeding simple. This is it from 2016 with TBR exhaust & mini reservoir on the M/C. That seems more natural to me, the bend you have there instead of my hardline! some googling must be done 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 4 hours ago, boOZZIE said: I ran without a heat shield for a while, all good except there must have been enough heat to soften the glue on my boot and ended up with a floppy sole ok, so might cost me a right boot after some time. The looks are worth it! It looks clean and a lot less heavy without. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Front fender done - donor aprilia rs125. Matte black for now but might be permanent. I think it's a nice addition to the all glossy black fairing. Saved around 100g. and added a bucket load of modernization. As a bonus it's shaped in a way that send air upwards almost straight in the intake of the rotrex and might help with pushing air through the radiators. Next up is wraping up a lot of small things like wiring and putting her clothes back on, some heat shielding and trying to get the rapid bike map to behave. I reached out to yaman but afaik I have to drive the bike to get another chance at adjusting a fresh base map. So 200 miles with afr 11.1 at cruise could be to much. Hoping for another solution. To adjust what I want I need to buy the RB SW at over 400 USD 😬 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 31 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31 If you have the RB Racing module, you can register the unit with Dimsport & download the control software. If you meed anything special you can email Dimsport & they will help if possible. I got my rev limit increase that way. I'm currently running 14.2/1 AFR via my MTB wideband 4.9 O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 On 3/31/2024 at 11:43 PM, Mohawk said: If you have the RB Racing module, you can register the unit with Dimsport & download the control software. I I'm sorry but I can not find anything on this, and I was quoted a heft price with our distributor. Not a word on registering, and I can't find a registration page other than the one below. I suspect they have devided this SW in to two - free and pro in recent years and you have to buy to get. I find a CD PRO version for sale on the interwebs as well. Also they have a "reserved" spot on the homepage which I got quite dizzy from when reading 😅 but it seems like a knowledge base only. Yaman did actuall tell me 5 mins ago (reply to an email from before Easter) that Dyno is required as they have the PRO sw at hand. 🙁 We dont have a RapidBike dyno available afaik in Norway. I won't listen to the "experts" as I'm gonna try this my self first. I'm not that novice and I have the dash telling me the AFR live at all times. I'll just start riding it then... https://reserved.dimsport.com/kb/Filemanager.aspx?id=1032 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 2 Member Contributer Share Posted April 2 The expert version is for dyno integration & allows you to modify multiple other settings like rpm & other variables. The standard version only allows fuel & ignition advance changes. That may have been my confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 Front fender looks like it will have tire contact when you install a new tire & run it up to speed... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 11 hours ago, SEBSPEED said: Front fender looks like it will have tire contact when you install a new tire & run it up to speed... That's a keen eye👏 Yes sir. There is some minor adjustment needed on the brackets when I fit a new tire. With 20cm of snow today I guess there is some time left to fiddle 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 6 Author Share Posted April 6 This is my conversion of the PC3 map before it was possible to adjust more than negative 10 / positive 30. Looks like shit because it is. This is with the ability to adjust negative 100/positive 150. A lot less shit... RB mytuningbike have the ability to adjust +-15 in all cells based on my target afr. It will be very exciting to see what has happened to this map after my first test on a road with no snow! Also there is this 🤏 dont worry, it's just a photo 🙃 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Did RB/Dimsport help with that, or were you able to find software so you could DIY? I'm interested in the software, if you can assist with that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted April 9 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9 14 minutes ago, SEBSPEED said: Did RB/Dimsport help with that, or were you able to find software so you could DIY? I'm interested in the software, if you can assist with that... I was able to download the RB software from their website. I don't recall if I had to provide a serial number or not. Message me, I have an install file from Dec 2023, if you still need/want it. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 2 hours ago, SEBSPEED said: Did RB/Dimsport help with that, or were you able to find software so you could DIY? I'm interested in the software, if you can assist with that... I am a dealer so got the pro version eventually. If you need any adjustments made I can help you with those "out of reach" numbers from the freeware 🙂 Just tell me what you need. It is rarely needed with the self adaptive feature, but for heavy modifications there is no way around. This does not replace a Dyno! Do you use the target afr from Dan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 2 hours ago, Duc2V4 said: I was able to download the RB software from their website. I don't recall if I had to provide a serial number or not. Message me, I have an install file from Dec 2023, if you still need/want it. D I have the free software so I can view and make the basic changes, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 7 minutes ago, WackenSS said: I am a dealer so got the pro version eventually. If you need any adjustments made I can help you with those "out of reach" numbers from the freeware 🙂 Just tell me what you need. It is rarely needed with the self adaptive feature, but for heavy modifications there is no way around. This does not replace a Dyno! Do you use the target afr from Dan? I am using 2 maps which the previous owner of my kit (Arrow here on VFRD) had developed on a dyno in NL. I haven't done much other than turn off the engine braking and turn on the automatic tuning. I'd like to raise the rpm limit. Yaman wanted me to send him my unit for the update, and I didn't feel like taking the bike down for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 4 minutes ago, SEBSPEED said: I am using 2 maps which the previous owner of my kit (Arrow here on VFRD) had developed on a dyno in NL. I haven't done much other than turn off the engine braking and turn on the automatic tuning. I'd like to raise the rpm limit. Yaman wanted me to send him my unit for the update, and I didn't feel like taking the bike down for that. Shoot me an email with the file and what you want and I'll see if its open for me to adjust 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 This going to be a bit of a wrap up post on this first round of this build. She only needs clothing, belt tensioning and a wash. Horn weight is better down here. It's kind of very heavy! Also re the vfrd headers,the lower of the wideband sensors hit the fairing. clean and OEM looking! RB controller/display for on the fly adjustments and afr watching. Also a small temp gauge for the rotrex oil and another probe on the outside of the charge pipe just because it is a two channel and id like to see what ballpark numbers there are. I could make an iat eventually but it's kind of temporary zip tied for getting a feel for temps and then it will be remowed. The smallest chain guard ever. Let's see what my clothes have to say about this... Modified rotrex dipstick with temperature sensor. Now I will be able to see if I truly need to add a cooler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 oh, and kind of promised to give my toughts on the Rotrex and the cause of my problems. Here is what i wrote during my diagnosis and repair. Id love some input on this! So here are my findings, thoughts and experience from running this kit for a decade. I don't know if there are some engineering guys in this thread but I'm not one but i will present my thoughts on what rotrex could have done better, also some ideas for improving the belt system. I would love if we could come up with something together on this part! Some prehistoric information: This is my second rotrex and the bike has a total of 30000km force fed, the second unit (this one) has around ⅔ of the mileage. The first one was changed due the pulley bolt coming loose within the first year. It was covered under warranty. What has happened is a total failure of the output shaft. My theory is that a traction drive supercharger is not very fond of the rapid changes in rpm it is put through being fitted to a motorcycle engine. I have no idea if there where changes made to better handle this in the c15-60 current production. My second newer unit has an aluminum nut to reduce rotating mass, also the balancing of the impeller is somewhat changed but is still cast. The output shaft is cross drilled for oiling purposes, and this is where it sheared. The radiusing of the transition between the driven face of the shaft and its thrust/support surfaces looks good but there is room for more here! There is almost no radiusing on the mating surface where the impeller seats. The shaft has broken in 3 pieces and its anyone's guess which part broke first but i suspect that the output shaft has gotten surface damage causing unbalance. There is a couple more things that can destroy a rotrex: # Overspeeding. Not possible with this ratio. # Lack of oil / maintenance. Never been low, dirty or run over the recommended km interval. At this rate it never will as there is oil included in the box when you buy a new unit 😅 however the oil have a couple more years than recommended… #Oil surface breakdown due to temperature. I'm sure this oil will be fine agewise after 3 years. There is no evidence of overheated parts as one normally think would be visible, however rotrex says a maximum of 80 degrees, so here comes the oil surface breakdown possibility. The output shaft is badly damaged but also have some areas that is good. The initial lockup happened after filling gas, idling for a couple of minutes and pulling somewhat inspired out on the road. Sudden high-pitch screaming and then lack of power. Could it be residual heat from the engine soaking the rotrex while filling causing a breakdown of the oil film? I will do temp surveillance this year in multiple spots to get an idea. However i have had a louder than usual unit for at least one season and i find no outboard bearings i can blame. The input shaft bearings are divided by an oil seal, the inner bearing (oil pump side) is a bit noisy while spinning it on my finger while assembled in it's housing. The outer one is perfect. This can be debris from the damage, but i suspect not. This takes me to a bit of history and what i think is the kits weakest part. I am on my 3 belt, the carbon belt where gone the first year (around 8000km) After about 20000km the outboard bearing startet making noise, and i changed it for a equal but not ZZ (double sealed) The pulleys are really small, this does not help belt life. A ribbed belt would help together with increasing the diameter. It will also quiet everything down, I'm sure some would appreciate that, i wouldn't. It would also help outboard bearing life by decreasing the tension the belt needs to run at. I'm not sure if a toothed belt is better at efficiency? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 On 4/9/2024 at 4:11 PM, WackenSS said: Shoot me an email with the file and what you want and I'll see if its open for me to adjust 🙂 Email sent to you... Last year, I discovered that squeezing the belt by hand (increasing/decreasing tension) showed movement in the rotrex bracket assembly - I went through and re-tightened/re-tensioned everything. It's worth checking as a maintenance item... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackenSS Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 On 4/11/2024 at 8:48 PM, SEBSPEED said: Email sent to you... Last year, I discovered that squeezing the belt by hand (increasing/decreasing tension) showed movement in the rotrex bracket assembly - I went through and re-tightened/re-tensioned everything. It's worth checking as a maintenance item... Wierd. I have not found this to be the case at all. I guess the 6th gen have a very different mounting system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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