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Skids

Starter doesn't run with clutch in

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Hi

 

My 2015 VFR800X doesn't start in 1st with the clutch pulled in any longer (the sidestand is up!). I've waggled the wires on the connector by the clutch lever to no avail (don't have time to delve any deeper right now) so any pointers to why it has suddenly stopped doing this and fixes would be appreciated.  :beer:

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Possibly a bad neutral switch or fried diode. :sleep:

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Hi Skids.

I'm making an assumption here that the start logic is the same as the 8gen VFR800F, and you can't start it in any gear not just 1st.

The In Gear start logic relies on the series ground supplied by your Side Stand Switch in the UP position AND a closed (pulled in ) Clutch switch along with a functional Clutch diode. All three of these items provide the series ground needed for the Starter Relay to pull in when you hit the start button. So start by checking your Side Stand Switch, Clutch Switch and that the clutch diode is not open circuit.

 

There is NO neutral switch like previous VFR's. Neutral detection is via the status of all three Gear Position Switches if ALL three are closed this equals Neutral. However neutral detection is NOT looked at for an in gear start.

Cheers.

 

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10 hours ago, Grum said:

 

 

There is NO neutral switch like previous VFR's. Neutral detection is via the status of all three Gear Position Switches if ALL three are closed this equals Neutral. However neutral detection is NOT looked at for an in gear start.

 

 

 

Thanks. old man squirrel learned somethin new today !

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On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 12:11 PM, Grum said:

Hi Skids.

I'm making an assumption here that the start logic is the same as the 8gen VFR800F, and you can't start it in any gear not just 1st.

The In Gear start logic relies on the series ground supplied by your Side Stand Switch in the UP position AND a closed (pulled in ) Clutch switch along with a functional Clutch diode. All three of these items provide the series ground needed for the Starter Relay to pull in when you hit the start button. So start by checking your Side Stand Switch, Clutch Switch and that the clutch diode is not open circuit.

 

There is NO neutral switch like previous VFR's. Neutral detection is via the status of all three Gear Position Switches if ALL three are closed this equals Neutral. However neutral detection is NOT looked at for an in gear start.

Cheers.

 

 

Grum, cheers for that m8.

 

Sadly my knowledge of electrickery is limited to watts = volts x amps so I'm not sure I'll be able to use that info but it looks as if at least one person will.

 

Removed the clutch switch but don't understand what I'm looking for or what to check.

IMAG0080.jpg

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Hi Skids.

Looks like your switch is stuffed. The internal contacts should not be exposed like that, appears part of the switch housing is missing! With the switch mounted back onto the clutch you should hear a faint but audible click as you pull the clutch in at some point. If you have a multimeter remove the two wires from the switch and with your meter on low ohms scale place the probes on the two switch contacts, activate the clutch and when the switch activates the reading should read zero ohms for a closed switch.

You could physically compare the switch with your other bike, they should be similar. Also you can just press the plunger on the switch and see if the contacts make. 

Good Luck.

Cheers.

 

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8 hours ago, Grum said:

Hi Skids.

Looks like your switch is stuffed. The internal contacts should not be exposed like that, appears part of the switch housing is missing! With the switch mounted back onto the clutch you should hear a faint but audible click as you pull the clutch in at some point. If you have a multimeter remove the two wires from the switch and with your meter on low ohms scale place the probes on the two switch contacts, activate the clutch and when the switch activates the reading should read zero ohms for a closed switch.

You could physically compare the switch with your other bike, they should be similar. Also you can just press the plunger on the switch and see if the contacts make. 

Good Luck.

Cheers.

 

 

Thanks m8, I'll give that a try when I can.

 

The wires don't look as if they are removable so should I strip the insulation back?

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20 hours ago, Skids said:

 

Thanks m8, I'll give that a try when I can.

 

The wires don't look as if they are removable so should I strip the insulation back?

Hi Skids.

I have to take back what I said before about the internal contacts shouldn't be exposed! I took the switch off my VFR800 and it looks exactly like yours, have to say I've never come across a switch like this with exposed internal contacts, this will allow dirt and crap to get onto the contacts and cause high resistance contacts over time! which might be what your problem is.

 

So all you need to do is pull the slide on spade wire connections off (no need to strip the insulation back) and place a meter across the switch connections just press the switch plunger to activate it (you should physically see the contacts make and break as you press and release the plunger) and make sure you're getting zero ohms resistance each time you activate the switch. If that works then your Clutch Switch is OK.

 

If you have some switch lubricant or WD40 a squirt of that on the exposed contacts might fix it if dirt has gotten onto the contacts.

Cheers.

 

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Thanks Grum.

 

I'll also swap in the OEM lever to see if that makes a difference.

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unhook the wires from the switch, hook them together, then try to start it, make sure the clutch IS pulled, if it tries to start it will lurch forward. I only say this because I told someone to do this before, they blamed me for them dropping their bike... so that is all

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I can confirm the clutch switch on my 99 VFR800 looks just like that with the contacts exposed. Very easy to see them moving together, and also easy to clean with a fine file then contact cleaner. 

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Fitted my oem clutch lever and it started fine in first gear.

 

So it's the lever. Strange, as it's been working fine since I fitted it over 18k miles ago.

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On 3/14/2018 at 5:08 PM, Skids said:

Fitted my oem clutch lever and it started fine in first gear.

 

So it's the lever. Strange, as it's been working fine since I fitted it over 18k miles ago.

Check that the brass/bronze pivot bush in your clutch leaver hasn't moved a bit. Mine had moved (downwards I think) preventing the cam/spring set up on the inboard end of the leaver from sitting nicely. It no longer pressed the switch all the way in. A drift and a small hammer tap on the bush fixed it.

 

With the engine off and clutch pulled all the way in you should hear a faint click of the micro switch. No click... No start...take a look at the pivot bush.

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