Zarquon

Honda still has the matching fairing bolts. I got some recently from them. Watch out parking on soft ground... these bikes tip all by themselves... consider a spare brake and clutch leaver! Great colour by the way. The decals are rare.

I have the same bike but blue, (the red ones are the slowest) bought 9 months ago 38000km then 49000km now. I have very similar bars but black. I like my VFR alot. I also like my 07 Buell XB12SS :-). If and when you do the thermostat (which I think is a throttle body off job) check the housing for corrosion. You should also replace the O rings on the 4 cooling system elbows on the motor (2 are under the throttle bodies). My O rings were like black cheese and one elbo was begining to rot out. Consider a fuel injector clean and service, replace the seals (cheap). My clutch slave was leaking, I replaced the seals that fixed it, I wouldn't have done them otherwise. My water pump was leaking so I replaced the cover seal now its good. Burp the air out of the cooling system when you refill it with coolant, add the right concentration of coolant mixed with deionized water. Install a volt meter. Make sure your clutch switch works. My bike does about 5 to 5.5 litres per 100km (42 to 47 mpg) when not pushed too much running 91 octane fuel. Lube the chain. Enjoy the bike.

I am 5'9" and have same problem with Corbin seat. I am sure they are made for tall people with big butts! I ditched the clip ons and put raised/raked handle bars on, fixed the issue. Or, butt augmentation surgery might help! 🙂

I recently did an injector clean after 19 years and 50000km. My but dyno tells me it was the right thing to do. Probably the cheapest power gain I could have done. Starts easier, runs cooler and I bet economy is better too. First tank full after the clean gave 47mpg taking it eazy.

I find the FH020AA takes a little more RPM to get it going than the stock RR and puts out about 0.2V lower (14.2) in hot riding conditions. When its 20C outside the charge voltage is higher 14 3 to 14.4V. My bike uses the original bike wiring plus a bridge from the RR to the frame ground and a fused link to the battery +ve. I haven't looked back since swapping out the rr 10000km ago. I recently did an injector clean after 19 years and 50000km. My but dyno tells me it was the right thing to do. Probably the cheapest power gain I could have done. Starts easier, runs cooler and I bet economy is better too.

I like the external tank. Its given me an idea for the girlfriends RF600 (thirsty beast) to make it more tourable, there is a whole seperate pillion seat to be converted into a rack and tank module. With electronic cruise control on my gen 5. My gut meter suspects I get a regular 20km or so extra out of a tank. Also, (the bike has less than 50,000km on it) I just dismantelled and cleaned my injectors... not a small job, throttle bodies have to come off... what a difference its made though (19years of gunk gone!) The motor starts better, runs smoother, runs cooler, and it pulls harder through the whole range. There has got to be an economy gain there too.

My 2 cents. I don't think the compression test is indicative of anything... except that the engine has sat around for a bit and not been run. There's alot of shiny surfaces inside that machine that only keep fresh by being used but will also refresh when used a little. Provided it hasn't sat too long or got wet or got dirt in it. I would refurb it, stick it in your bike and then do a full rebuild on the high mile original engine, increasing its capacity etc once your exchanged engine has proved itself.

I know there is sufficient interference in the electrical system on my Y2K bike to make cheap LED dashboards lights flash/flicker randomly and independantly. The flashing pattern changes with RPM. The standard dash bulbs to not flicker.

A vac leak would be most noticable at lower RPM and start up. Lack of power in that high mid range might be a sign of fuel or air starvation? When did you check/change your fuel filter(s) or perhaps air filter? My fuel filter was last done 19 years ago?!# its on my extensive to do list when next it starts raining and there is a space in the shed.

The thinking and practice has paid off. Stock look maintained and improved V4 note. Need to sound check in a tunnel or underpass! Enjoy

I like what you've done. I Was thinking about doing something similar with a vintage Suzuki 600. Beef up the noise a little but keep the factory appearance. Now, I guess I better pick up tools and do it!

I just did a total carb clean and refurbish on an inline 4. Take lots of photos as you go and keep the service manual and parts diagram handy. You need a decent uncluttered work space, some plastic containers, resealable pastic bags, tape and a marker pen. And your phone camera. Number the carb bodies and keep the pieces for each carb together. Some carbs use O rings (looks like these do)to seal the fuel junctions others use a rubber collar. Gasolene tolerant O rings are cheap and easy to get at any bearing shop. You do not need to disassemble each carb to replace those seals you just need to separate the carbs from the cluster (Three long bolts and some ali spacers). Take note of how the throttle cams interface with each other and where the tabs sit relative to the springs and set screws.

It looks like what you've done will keep things going for a bit. I agree with JZH. Upgrade reg/rec sooner rather than later, because the originals are a known problem. (Mine blew at 40000km. One of the diodes fried and bubbled up the black potting compound in the back of the r/r. Happened on a stinking hot day riding for 2hrs in traffic.) I Would then solder any connections between the new reg/rec's plugs and the bike/stator wiring. My system now has the same jumper circuit from reg/rec's -ve output to the frame with beefed up wire and +ve output to battery +ve using heavy wire and a 30amp fuse. I figure the fuses protect the bikes circuits from the battery but also need to handle some 500 odd watts of charge. Don't trust those crimp on terminals (Danger made in China) and whenever possible crimp and then solder them as well. The clear tube insulation will at least let you see what is going on, how does it handle heat?

Wrap aluminium foil around the loose fitting pipe several times until it is a snug fit into the slip on. It's Ugly but functional!

Make sure the tops of your brake and clutch fluid reservoirs clear the underside of your windscreen fairings on full lock. You may need to adjust the angles that the banjo bolts make from the reservoirs too. The bars I put on my 5th Gen let the brake and clutch control clear the tank and fairings by less than a 1/8 inch! I used ST1100 throttle cables but they DID NOT FIT DIRECTLY, the return cable was about 3/4 inch too short in its sheeve. Its a tricky job shortening sheeve without wrecking the cable. I put a modified motor car cruise control on my bike to eliminate wrist pain. In the higher gears it works fine. You need to be ready if you engage it in 3rd...!