Zarquon

That, on the pillion peg, is the vacuum actuator that controls the thottle. Its off a car and too bulky to fit behind the front headers where alot of people put them. If the road trials go OK I'll hunt up something less bulky and hide it a little better. It's ok for now. With regard the electrics, I think the best bet is to add a little conductive grease to the plug connector pins each time you separate a plug and socket and take good care of your negative junctions and earth points. Also, try not to over do it with the pressure wash or put your baby to bed wet! Z

The CC installation self tests fine and works after a fashion on the stand but it needs to be loaded up... a road test... and I'm just a tad nervous about this part. The unit cost me $7.51AU at auction on ebay plus another $50 in plugs, wire, heat shrink and tape.Then about 20hrs to reverse engineer the wiring to fit the VFR and build a little hardware for monting it. Man your bike looks super shiny under the seat.

Where is the wheel nut wrench? Read your thread end to end, nice ride btw. I need to get a cover! I've just done a wiring relay/distro mod on my own gen5. Switched the relay using the tail light wiring, main power is direct from battery with 10 amp fuse in line. System runs voltmeter, phone holder, usb outlet and lithium multi function jump starter. Current project... cruise control mod... (not so easy adapting and wiring 2nd hand car unit)! Enjoy Z

Maybe give it a brief run with no air cleaner at all? And make sure nothing can possibly block the snorkle. Could be air starvation/over fueling causing the probs.

Might be worth bypassing the whole fuel system. Set up a temporary fuel supply that gravity feeds direct to the carbs. See if it solves the problem. Don't risk a petrol fire. You could also check to see if it was any particular cylinder or carb that was playing up by pulling plug leads one by one and seing if the symptoms get worse. Good luck

For Info: I had to type the email address to get it to work... it won't just copy and paste directly.

Just some tips... Check your radiator cap isn't stuffed. Might be letting the coolant boil out of the system with lack of pressure. Hence poor cooling and radiator overflow. A pressurized system has a higher boiling point and contains the coolant. Also your bike and its cooling system is aluminium not iron (which rusts) so take care of what you put in it! Use products designed for aluminium. Old coolant can degrade and form scale in the cooling system and reduce heat transfer in the system perhaps a descaling product is what you need. The coolant to water ratio is important for efficient operation of the cooling system. Good luck

Just in case you didn't already know what was behind that nut. The second pic is in order of the way it came off. It all went back together today and is sitting pretty on a spanking new T30 EVO GT and no slop in the linkages any more.

I read a good part of this thread tonight and I think that you are getting right into the resto. Good on you. I,ve just done a front end and full rear axel and swing arm service on a 2000 Gen 5 that I've owned for 2 months and plan on taking up to Cairns soon. Lucky for me my axel nut came off eazy with a rattle gun. The wheel nuts however were bastards... my breaker bar looks like a coat hanger! If your bike were mine, I'd have the swing arm off it and laying tire side down while I juiced the nut and thread with the most potent penetrating oil I could get on it for about a week. Then use a rattle gun. Under that nut, you also have a spring washer, collar, cush drive bearing, collar and cush drive flange splines to come off yet. With luck you will have an eazier time getting them free than the nut. Lots of penetrating oil... The nut on the inboard end of the suspension linkage was also a bastard on my bike, I had trouble with the spanner rolling off the nut. Wedged it on in the end. I found that nearly all the dust seals on the suspension and rear axel were on their last legs and the double ball bearing in the bearing hub has been spining on the axel $$. The grease in all the bearings needed cleaning and replacing. You might find success cleaning the non painted aluminium surfaces with oil based degreaser and very fine steel wool. On painted surfaces it rubs through the paint, don't use it. You shouldn't need too much strength on the very end of your sub frame. Holds a couple of lights, wires and bits of platic!? I don't think chopping it on those marks will hurt. Maybe epoxy in a wedge of hard plasic between the two square sections ahead of the weld and extend it beyond where you cut the back out of the lower square section? Helping support the upper rail where you havn't weakend the lower one. Hope this info helps. Cheers Z

Check that the brass/bronze pivot bush in your clutch leaver hasn't moved a bit. Mine had moved (downwards I think) preventing the cam/spring set up on the inboard end of the leaver from sitting nicely. It no longer pressed the switch all the way in. A drift and a small hammer tap on the bush fixed it. With the engine off and clutch pulled all the way in you should hear a faint click of the micro switch. No click... No start...take a look at the pivot bush.

Just did the valves on my new Y2K only 38000km on it (just off the teat). All 4 inlet valves on the rear cylinders were just a little tight and I decreased the shims by 0.05mm probably could have left them alone. The other 12 valves in the motor were fine. The PARE valves on the other hand were choked up with black crud and took a bit of cleaning to make nice.

So I finished the tapered roller bearing installation. First thing I did this morning was to add about another 1/8th of a turn to the bottom lock nut (I thought the steering was a little too loose the way I had it , it had no feel and 'carried on' when turned it). Next I re torqued and tabbed the top lock nut. This made the feel of the steering a little firmer. When I turned the forks with my torque meter afterwards it required about 2Nm (thats about 1.5ftlb) to make the forks move. A tad light by the book but I thought OK for a start. Then I had a real good look at the top plate, top lock nut and steering shaft... What I saw... The bottom of the top plate presses against the top surface of the upper lock nut. The top steering nut with 103Nm of torque on it clamps the top plate to the top lock nut. So I slipped the fork tubes in and clamped the bottom plate on with about 15Nm, then slipped on the top plate and made sure that it was snug against the top lock nut and clamped it to the top fork tubes with about 10Nm. Then on with the top steering nut and eased it up 103Nm in a couple of bites. (There was just a sheen of grease on the thread before I put the nut on). After this... the steering was tighter to turn... Of bloody course! But not unacceptably so 😁 It now takes about 4Nm (3ftlb) to turn the forks with the front end raised off the ground. This is near the max spec listed in the service manual and I expect it to loosen a bit while it settles in. We will see. The fork tubes and handle bars are all back in their right places again and tightened up. I can't try it yet because I'm waiting on brake pads (I'm sure they were not worn out before I started this job ).

For what its worth, I just put AllBalls tapered bearings in my gen5 yesterday (36000km on the originals). I haven't put the 103Nm on the top nut yet. I did tighten the lower lock nut up until I got some resistance in the steering then did a fair few lock to lock sweeps of the steering (it didn't lighten up much). After that I loosened the bottom nut a fraction until the steering was light and smooth then did up the lock nut as per the manual and tabbed it (I got a good 1/4 turn of torque on the lock nut before tabbing it). I should be finishing up the steering mod tomorrow will let you know how it goes when I torque that top nut. I won't be surprised if the headset takes a few goes to get it to the point were its sweetest. No way I have 25Nm on the bottom nut, likely less than 10. The manual says the resistance to turn with the front wheel raised should be 2.2 to 3.3 ftlb.

And its blue... I got one just like it! 🙂