Zarquon

Thanks Terry

I finally got the chance to ride today, with a slightly looser chain adustment. The noise is still there but I think it cuts out at a lower rpm now. It sounds like the chain and kind of has a lugging engine beat to it. I enjoyed a good ride anyway! The front sprocket is warn but servicable, the rear is fine, chain looks well used. I want to change out the chain and sprockets but keep the lower gearing that I have (with a 16 tooth at the front). Does any one know if a 6th gen rear sprocket will fit a 5th gen wheel? I can save a dollar buying parts as a kit if it does.

Gotcha. Now I have a plan. Thanks all for your input. I will post a follow up outcome.

Whould be at least 15000km on the chain and sprocket. I know the previous owner re geared the bike because the speedo was out

I think thats where I need to go with this. Tinker with the chain and sprocket and if that doesn't help find a replacement engine to swap in when or if this one breaks.

Will look at this first. I know the lube was good, I did it 200km ago I thought tension was good too at the time. I get more noise with a pillion... chain might be tightening with extra weight... but why only in top gear? I was down in Woolongong for the bikes at the weekend and contemplated a 200k ride home with no 6th gear?

My 5th generation is making a chattering noise in 6th gear (it sounds abit like the chain needs lube or is too tight). Its most noticable bellow 4000rpm and goes away above 5500rpm. To begin with I thought it was engine pinging because it gets louder as I roll on the power (changing RON fuel does not eliminate the noise though). I first noticed the sound about 6000km ago and the chatter noise is getting louder over time. The bike has only 51,000kms on it (I have put the last 15000km on it and have been oil changing every 5000k's). I get no chattering in any other gear. I'm wondering if its a bloody bearing in the gear box and a big engine job to fix it? So if anyone else has experience with 6th gear problems on their 5th Generation bikes could you please let me know. Cheers

Impressive result.

The wiring installation looks and sounds like its all propper. Watch for chafe on the insulation. Honda saw you coming with those brass inserts... Can you attack the shoulders of the key or get one cut that's got a better shaped handle? Consider getting a bezel from a wreck before risking the original...? Or make an aluminium bezel as a replacement?

Neat installation. Bitch about the steering lock. I would cry if my bike got nicked because the bars wouldn't lock... Surely you can shave the back of the plastic collar or the sides of the key to make it work? Does your usb socket have a volt meter too? On recommendation from another VFRD member, I wired my auxillary circuit via a relay operated by the tail light circuit. It switches a dedicated, fused output wired from the battery and puts bugger all extra load on the fragile factory wiring.

I like the external tank. Its given me an idea for the girlfriends RF600 (thirsty beast) to make it more tourable, there is a whole seperate pillion seat to be converted into a rack and tank module. With electronic cruise control on my gen 5. My gut meter suspects I get a regular 20km or so extra out of a tank. Also, (the bike has less than 50,000km on it) I just dismantelled and cleaned my injectors... not a small job, throttle bodies have to come off... what a difference its made though (19years of gunk gone!) The motor starts better, runs smoother, runs cooler, and it pulls harder through the whole range. There has got to be an economy gain there too.

I know there is sufficient interference in the electrical system on my Y2K bike to make cheap LED dashboards lights flash/flicker randomly and independantly. The flashing pattern changes with RPM. The standard dash bulbs to not flicker.

Wrap aluminium foil around the loose fitting pipe several times until it is a snug fit into the slip on. It's Ugly but functional!

Make sure the tops of your brake and clutch fluid reservoirs clear the underside of your windscreen fairings on full lock. You may need to adjust the angles that the banjo bolts make from the reservoirs too. The bars I put on my 5th Gen let the brake and clutch control clear the tank and fairings by less than a 1/8 inch! I used ST1100 throttle cables but they DID NOT FIT DIRECTLY, the return cable was about 3/4 inch too short in its sheeve. Its a tricky job shortening sheeve without wrecking the cable. I put a modified motor car cruise control on my bike to eliminate wrist pain. In the higher gears it works fine. You need to be ready if you engage it in 3rd...!