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About Zarquon

  • Rank
    Club Racer

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  • Location
    Sydney NSW
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800 gen5 Blue

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  1. Zarquon

    Cam reinstall - timing help needed

    Nice going... getting that b@$tard undone... progress!
  2. Zarquon

    Newbie from AUS

    I have the same bike in blue and luv it. Just did Sydney to Cairns and looking forward to another great trip back in a few weeks. The reg/rec died on me in Brisbane (40,004km) my volt meter showed a low voltage problem and saved me getting stranded thank F* ... there is a chap in Boonah qld that has mosfet type r/r's for $210AUD in stock. The dodgy factory electrics are located under your left thigh on the bike, its worth taking a look. Enjoy
  3. Zarquon

    Front Brakes Keep Losing Pressure

    Perhaps a little hole in the bottom of your fluid reservoir is blocked or partly blocked.
  4. Zarquon

    3rd Gen Carb Jet Sizes

    I lube the moving parts with WD40 spray and use silicone grease on the isolators to help get a seal. If the rubber isolators (boots) are old and hard it might be worth replacing them or warming them up a bit before installation, this will make the fitment easier. It's important to make sure the rubber isolators are not damaged and are correctly fitted between the cylinder heads and carb bodies (no vacuum leaks).
  5. I used st1100 cables on my 5th gen handle bar mod, the hardware fittings matched but they were only just long enough and the angles where they meet the throttle grip are a little tighter than original. I also had to trim 3/4 of an inch from the outer case of the push cable (not so easy) to get it to match the distance between the cable brackets on the throttle body and the throttle quadrant. I now wonder if the st1300 cables might have been better? The biggest challenge of the job was getting the bars and master cylinders/leavers on them to clear the underside of the windscreen fairing edges and tank on full lock. I ended up with about a match stick width of clearance on top and I had to shorten the bars an inch to get this. You may also need to mod the bango locators on your master cylinders so the lines don't conflict with tops of your suspension and to improve their direction lead to maximise slack in the lines.
  6. Zarquon

    adkfinn's 5th gen 20yr refresh

    For info my Gen5 battery voltage sits between 14.0 to 14.4 too. It will drop to 13.0v at low rpm after a long ride when the r/r is hot. Great job (great thread) btw I look forward to reading about your suspension mods in time. Z
  7. We got the RWB version in Australia.
  8. My yr 2000 5th gen is polished and stamped just like your first photo.
  9. My gen 5 drops to 10.8V if I need to crank it alot and will still start the bike I usually see it go to 11.2 or 11.4 I need to double check this (my battery is tired and cranking with low voltage eventually hurts the starter motor brushes). I carry a lithium jump start booster battery that doubles as a usb power supply. This will start the bike with a flat battery. To check for voltage drops in your bike starter wiring you will need a multimeter set to dc volts. Connect one lead to the +ve lug on the battery and the other to the positive lug on you starter motor. Then crank the motor. A reading of more than about +/-0.5volts on the meter when cranking generally implies excessive resistance in the circuit... you have a bad connection somewhere in the positive lead. Repeat the test connecting the multimeter between the -ve lug on the battery and the casing of the starter motor to check the -ve circuit . Hope this explains it for you, good luck.
  10. Can check for voltage drops from negative of battery and starter motor case then positive of battery and positive of starter motor and between positive to negative of battery when you are trying to crank it. This will tell you where to look for an electrical fault if its in the battery or high current leads.
  11. Zarquon

    how off is a stock speedo?

    The question is which market for Japanese bikes has had a requirement favouring over reading speedos the longest? Make one bike that meets the tightest regs. I can see the promotional/marketing motivation in the days when cross referencing speedos between bikes was more hit and miss! (but I do have in the shed a 1990 VT250L with an exact reading +/-1 kph mechanical speedo and it will do a hundred on a gps!) I also see a safety/speed related accident liability angle. (And I suffer a Suzuki with a 10% over reading speedo that drives me nuts, Why is all the traffic passing me?) The only answer I got for the vfr is to gear the cogs the way you like it and add some brand of speedo healer.
  12. Zarquon

    how off is a stock speedo?

    This is the best explanation I can find for factory speedo error. From the RACQ WEB PAGE Quote Australian Speedo accuracy standards Australian Design Rule 18 sets out the accuracy standards for vehicle speedos. Until July 2006 this rule specified an accuracy of +/- 10 percent of the vehicle’s true speed when the vehicle was travelling above 40km/h. That is, at a true vehicle speed of 100km/h the speedo could indicate between 90km/h and 110km/h. An odometer accuracy of +/- 4 percent was also a requirement. From July 1 2006 a new standard began its phase in and by 1 July 2007 all new vehicles had to comply. The new standard requires that: The speedo must not indicate a speed less than the vehicle’s true speed or a speed greater than the vehicle’s true speed by an amount more than 10 percent plus 4 km/h. Odometer accuracy is no longer defined. What this means: For a vehicle travelling at a true speed of 100km/h, the speedo must read between 100km/h and 114km/h. The effect of this is that many drivers will find that at 100km/h they are driving up to 14km/h below the speed limit if they rely on the vehicle’s speedo. The speedo must always read 'safe', meaning the vehicle must not travel faster than the speed indicated by the speedo. This change was made to align Australian vehicle rules with those already in place in Europe. It applies to all Australian motor vehicles except mopeds. Dealers will generally not attempt to correct speedo error unless it exceeds the legal requirements.
  13. Some thoughts of what to test. Does pulling the cold start out have any effect on the engine behaviour when its playing up? Does disconnecting the plug leads one at a time affect the problem? Can you track the problem to a particular piston? Can you use your osilloscope to check the low tension input signal to each of the ignition coils when its playing up. Could also use the osilloscope to check the ignition timing output from the crank shaft sensors? (If you trace both these signals together then you should be able to see if the ignition advance is working) It might be a funky ECU fault. Are all the vacuum lines and carb insulators in good condition? Does the bike always play up when it is worm?
  14. Zarquon

    Update on low-charging problem, all done now.

    After 24hrs of thinking about rewinding your stator. I'm willing to bet that fewer turns on each pole (say 31 instead of 34) and fatter winding wire (say plus 10 tp 15% in cross section) might drop the stators output voltage and improve its current handling... then add the extra coats of lacquer and it should run cooler and last longer! You probably wouldn't even notice any drop in battery charging rate except at idle rpm. For your thought.

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