Zarquon

Wow... the model I wanted but couldn't find... and only an ocean away. Yes you should buy it.

On the bolts... Lube well with penetrating oil for 24hrs and use a small (low power) electric impact driver and a very well matched allen key bit. Be gentle, Good luck.

Sounds like I need to add a job to the list on my gen5. I take it your in Aus. Was wondering who did your injector clean and what it cost?

Sorry I added some extra thoughts to my last post.

I wonder if the rear pistons are sitting true in their pots after pushing on the back of the brake pad. Perhaps rotating the pistons 90 degrees in their pots and/or replacing the rear pads if the wear is uneven. In your original post I got the impression one of the pistons was a bit sticky. I'm wondering why? If the brake has been locking on then things would have been getting pretty darn hot. Something might have changed shape.

You probably already did this? I would be de mounting the rear caliper leaving the brake lines attached and working the pistons out with the rear brake pedal then forcing the pistons back in with clamps until all came good. Was there no scale or corrosion on the rear two main pistons?

Welcome to the board and great choice of bike. You will never need to adjust or replace a timing chain on your bike 🙂 First thing I did to my 2000 gen5 with 38000km on it was add a volt meter and a usb socket and phone cradle. I checked (for heat damage and corrosion) and greased (with conductive grease) every electical connector I could find on the bike too. Both my clutch slave cylinder and water pump housing had leaks too. Then I changed the brake and clutch fluid. Bleeding the combined brakes is a bit of a process (so you better down load the workshop manual from this forum) warning, air will hang up in the banjo fittings if you bleed the lines dry! You might consider checking your front and rear wheel bearings. Also check the headset (mine was sloppy and worn) and rear suspension links for slop. Further down the list comes changing out the cooling system O rings on the four coolant elbows that mate with the cylinder block (they will likely have turned to cheese) and checkthe thermostat and its housing for operation and corrosion. Change out the engine coolant when you do this. You will likely get a performance kick from an injector clean and idle valve sync you can do this when you are getting at the coolant elbows. I guess these are just a few of the joys of owning a mature motorcycle. Enjoy

Is it Michael Jackson?

The wiring installation looks and sounds like its all propper. Watch for chafe on the insulation. Honda saw you coming with those brass inserts... Can you attack the shoulders of the key or get one cut that's got a better shaped handle? Consider getting a bezel from a wreck before risking the original...? Or make an aluminium bezel as a replacement?

That is the model I wanted but I couldn't find a good one, so I got a Gen5 instead. IMO the 4 is a very, very nice bike your and photo looks good! Jetting = changing/optimizing the jets and or needles in your carbs. If its starting and idling fine, just get out there and put a few tanks of gas through it! Check your millage from each tank and compare with what others are getting on their Gen4's. Fuel economy, exhaust colour and engine smoothness through the rev range will give you a good indication if anything needs to be done to the carbs. Spark plug condition is a good indicator too but a bit more involved to check. Before you get into the carbs too deep, make sure the air cleaner element is clean. Your charge system has likely been delt with already if it needed it. I thought the gen4's were pretty good charge wise? Doing 'The Drill' will help you establish its condition and get you familiar with things and your options. Consider adding a volt meter to the bike, its cheap and easy and will give a heads up if your charge system starts to fail. At some point you might want to change out your brake and clutch fluid. In my experience, many previous owners are tardy on this side of maintenance.

Neat installation. Bitch about the steering lock. I would cry if my bike got nicked because the bars wouldn't lock... Surely you can shave the back of the plastic collar or the sides of the key to make it work? Does your usb socket have a volt meter too? On recommendation from another VFRD member, I wired my auxillary circuit via a relay operated by the tail light circuit. It switches a dedicated, fused output wired from the battery and puts bugger all extra load on the fragile factory wiring.

Regarding the welds... My guess is the original fittings slid up inside the tubes an inch or more and the weld that held them in place was done in such a way that it penetrated the full thickness of the tube. Also consider that you are welding a cast block of aluminium to an extrude tube. You have a chunk and a relatively thin wall of two different types of aluminium to weld. Welding something like that is not all that straight foreward. I don't think there is a way to get the stength you need Butt welding those mounting eyes to the end of the tube like you are trying to do. You could try V'ing out the area to be welded to improve the weld penetration but I think you will need to fabricate something that slides inside the tubes and is then welded the full thickness of the tube wall. Do you have access to a lathe?

Today I rode my gen 5 a couple hundred k's just as per your request. Using various sequences and durations of the front and rear brake operation I was unable to detect any interactions between the front and rear brakes through either the brake pedal or hand leaver. There was no pedal drop when I put front brake on followed by rear brake and then released the front brake.

Make sure also that the rear pads are floating properly in the caliper and the exposed part of the slave pistons are clean. Do the same on the front calipers as well. The linked brake circuit might be interacting with the foot brake pedal because of some gooey shit in the caliper(s)?

I am unfamiliar with the R1 but, Is there someway to output error codes with a jerry rigged engine light? Make sure all the electrical slider connections are seated properly in their plastic plug housings. Sometimes they get pushed or stretched out of position and look connected but arn't. My Buell had the same intermittent problem and it turned out to be a faulty ignition relay. The relay clicked all the systems worked but no spark or fuel.