Zarquon

Looks like you have done a fine job getting those parts clean.

I don't suppose you could post the suppliers web link? 🙄

Its nice to see the injectors wern't to bad given their age and milage but looks like I should probably be seeing to my seals in the not to distant future.? I was wondering if the throttle bodies had to be removed to access two of the four cooling system elboes in the valley of the engine block (I'm not sure from memory)? Could be worth changing/checking the 'o' ring seals in them while the engine is in bits? Consider this...Dish washer soap is caustic... will eat aluminium/magnesium castings very quickly.

Hi Zarquon, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

If new fuel doesn't fix your cold start dificulty. Perhaps the starter valves need to be synchronized? This will also help idle smoothness. The workshop manual will tell you how to do this. My gen5 2000 model (which does not have a manual choke) usually needs a couple of 2 to 3 second cranks with the starter before it comes to life for the first time each day. I checked the valve clearances at 39000km and they were still in spec. I guess you already know that a battery volt meter is a good idea on these bikes. Enjoy.

Gotcha on that, thanks Terry. I spent 12hrs cleaning the carb rack just to make it run and I still have some issues with it. Damn bike has standed me twice, flooding on deceleration. I have dropped the needles one stop and it got better. I now have an optimised needle and jet kit on order hopefully this will set things right along with a heap more time in the ultrasonic bath and some new carb seals. I will check those tubes again when I get back into the carbs. The bike is for my girl, its got a low seat for its size, good for her... I like making old things new again, so its good for me too! Needless to say her mum hates it? You can't please all the people all the time. (A Blue Gen5 VFR pleases me!)

The big one is still to come. I believe that a circuit of Australia is about 14000km. But the first job is to restore an RF600R (barn find) for the girlfriend to ride. Her old GS500 was reliable but couldn't keep up!

I recently bought a 2000 model (with cat) had 36000km on it. It came with an aftermarket slip on exhaust. KThe fuel milage was about the same as what you quoted in your initial post (pretty crap). First job I did was add a volt meter then cleaned the pair valves (choked with Carbon), then balanced the idle valves and dismantled and serviced all the rear end drive components serviced the front and back brake calipers and replaced the pads and fluid. This all did nothing noticable! I then added liquid moly injector cleaner a bit at a time in each tank of fuel until the bottle was empty. That did nothing noticable too! I put some new BT30 evos on it and then I did a 6000km road trip from Sydney to Cairns the fuel economy got better and better as the trip wore on! (Blew the RR in Brisbane now have a lighter wallet and mosfet type RR hard wired with beefed up wiring). So I think a long ride might do the trick... it'll be good for your constitution if nothing else. I get about 18km per litre at highway speed now. Note Even the Blue gen 5 VFR's burn up their RR's 🙂

Nice going... getting that b@$tard undone... progress!

I have the same bike in blue and luv it. Just did Sydney to Cairns and looking forward to another great trip back in a few weeks. The reg/rec died on me in Brisbane (40,004km) my volt meter showed a low voltage problem and saved me getting stranded thank F* ... there is a chap in Boonah qld that has mosfet type r/r's for $210AUD in stock. The dodgy factory electrics are located under your left thigh on the bike, its worth taking a look. Enjoy

Perhaps a little hole in the bottom of your fluid reservoir is blocked or partly blocked.

I lube the moving parts with WD40 spray and use silicone grease on the isolators to help get a seal. If the rubber isolators (boots) are old and hard it might be worth replacing them or warming them up a bit before installation, this will make the fitment easier. It's important to make sure the rubber isolators are not damaged and are correctly fitted between the cylinder heads and carb bodies (no vacuum leaks).

I used st1100 cables on my 5th gen handle bar mod, the hardware fittings matched but they were only just long enough and the angles where they meet the throttle grip are a little tighter than original. I also had to trim 3/4 of an inch from the outer case of the push cable (not so easy) to get it to match the distance between the cable brackets on the throttle body and the throttle quadrant. I now wonder if the st1300 cables might have been better? The biggest challenge of the job was getting the bars and master cylinders/leavers on them to clear the underside of the windscreen fairing edges and tank on full lock. I ended up with about a match stick width of clearance on top and I had to shorten the bars an inch to get this. You may also need to mod the bango locators on your master cylinders so the lines don't conflict with tops of your suspension and to improve their direction lead to maximise slack in the lines.

For info my Gen5 battery voltage sits between 14.0 to 14.4 too. It will drop to 13.0v at low rpm after a long ride when the r/r is hot. Great job (great thread) btw I look forward to reading about your suspension mods in time. Z

We got the RWB version in Australia.