Captain 80s 152 Posted August 17, 2018 Nice progress! It's gonna be so cool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted September 29, 2018 Sorry guys been a while but I've just collected a few new bits, starting to fit but here's a couple of picks of the first fitting 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Willy 35 Posted September 29, 2018 Wow! Bodywork is looking great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted September 29, 2018 The body work is a copy of the original RS850 parts, I managed to get a set from a guy who has 2 RS's and have had a set of moulds made so I'm now the owner of a correct set of body work, all I have to do is get them to fit better. I have done the seat and opened out the hole for the rear silencer so that's done, been trying to get the fairing to fit this morning, but it's been on and off, cut a little, refit, and then start it all again, it must have been on and off about 10 times today, trying to get it in the correct position before I make the mounting brackets, oh the joys of making a bike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VF1000RS 42 Posted December 11, 2018 Really cool build. Can`t wait to see more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted January 28 Hi All, Today's been a good day, had a phone call to pop a couple of towns away to collect a interesting part from a metalworking GOD, just got home and co uldn't wait to trail fit it, He has cut and welded the VF750 tank removing the mass of pipework that is the standard fuel tap and filled the hole, he then cut off the original filler cap and made a twin filler setup, I got two alloy filler caps (from a Kawasaki I think) for the endurance look, he also fitted a VFR400R tank breather,.What do you all think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutchy 2760 Posted January 28 I need a cigarette now... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain 80s 152 Posted January 28 I think I agree with Dutchy. Pretty fucking cool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted January 28 So you think I've got the right sort of look then? A few other bit I've been on with:- Battery box made and mounted on left hand side of engine, remounted starter solenoid along side battery box. A pair of ruff fairing side mounting brackets along with finished top fairing bracket. Fitted VTR1000 fork stantions and internals to VF1000r bottom legs. Vents cut out into seat unit and started to prime and fill any little imperfections. Cut up the standard VFR airbox to use the mesh part at the base. I'll try and get some more photo's over the next few weeks Next job to get the fuel pump mounted and wiring alterations finished. IS it 2019 already? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fastdruid 12 Posted January 29 On 4/29/2018 at 9:00 PM, trooper1999 said: Hi all, I think I need help! with the bike not my mental health😀 this I think applies to all the RC24 owners does the fuel pump run all the time when the ignition key is turned on, mine seems a bit intermittent it runs some times and not others when the engine is not running, I've not had a lot of experience with these bikes so am learning on the fly, but my FZ750 pump runs for a few moments and then cuts out until the engine starts. So I'm not sure if I've got a faulty pump or it's normal. The VFR fuel pump is very simply a relay with a capacitor driven off one of the ignition coils (probably a diode also). When the ign coil "fires" it energises the relay and the capacitor then holds it energised until the next coil firing. So it *only* runs when the ign is sparking (ie turning over or running). You can as others have said bypass it (I do this for the first start after winter etc). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fastdruid 12 Posted January 29 On 1/23/2018 at 10:07 PM, trooper1999 said: Hi I have lowered the engine into the frame as low as possible, by re positioning the lower engine mounts, an other issue is that the output shaft is shorter on the RC24 than the RC15 engines. It's still a bit high but should be ok FYI if you are using the late RC24 engine then the RC36 output shaft is ~13mm longer and a direct swap (Unfortunately the US didn't get the later RC24 model)....You do however also need the RC36 sprocket cover and the clutch pushrod (it's longer). Plus as a bonus all the important parts on the later RC24 *except* the gears themselves (ratios differ) and the output shaft are shared with the RC30. Note also that the gear change shaft position also differs between the early and late RC24's (and the ign, and the valve size, and the carb size, and the ign timing...! ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted February 1 Not managing to get much done this week but have a look at what a proper fuel tap looks like, this array of pipe work has been removed from the VF750 fuel tank Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutchy 2760 Posted February 1 On 1/29/2019 at 2:44 AM, Fastdruid said: . You can as others have said bypass it (I do this for the first start after winter etc). But then you place it in the circuit again right? Should you crash and the engine shuts down, you donot want the pump to continue pumping methink... free flowing beer is good, petrol is not! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fastdruid 12 Posted February 1 11 minutes ago, Dutchy said: But then you place it in the circuit again right? Should you crash and the engine shuts down, you donot want the pump to continue pumping methink... free flowing beer is good, petrol is not! Oh absolutely, just bypass to test and prime. I wouldn't advise anything other than a temporary bypass although if someone is determined I'd advise to bypass it by running a "normal" relay via a bank (tip-over) sensor (as fitted to EFI bikes as they will quite happily run on their side...until they run out of oil). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain 80s 152 Posted February 1 45 minutes ago, Fastdruid said: Oh absolutely, just bypass to test and prime. I wouldn't advise anything other than a temporary bypass although if someone is determined I'd advise to bypass it by running a "normal" relay via a bank (tip-over) sensor (as fitted to EFI bikes as they will quite happily run on their side...until they run out of oil). I install a toggle switch in parallel on my bikes which allows me to prime after winter storage and get home WHEN the relay fails. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutchy 2760 Posted February 2 13 hours ago, Captain 80s said: I install a toggle switch in parallel on my bikes which allows me to prime after winter storage and get home WHEN the relay fails. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nord1 0 Posted February 15 +1 following! This is a great thread. I’m kicking around the idea to do a similar build. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted February 18 On 2/15/2019 at 8:35 PM, nord1 said: +1 following! This is a great thread. I’m kicking around the idea to do a similar build. That great, It's not just me that has mad ideas. If I can be any help get in touch 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted May 2 Just a little update, I've been busy with all the little things alterting a bike needs, ie the oil breather catch tank, alter the steering lock to reduce the amount of travel, trying to sort the screen, making the rear engine mount etc etc all little bit that take loads of time. I've sorted the guy who is going to paint it for me it should be with him in about a month so that's a big step, as soon as I get it back from him I'll get it apart for powder coating and then start its final build. At the moment work and family are getting in the way but that's life. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted May 27 Hi Everyone, I've not managed to get into the garage for a few weeks (family issues), I have managed to get some spanner time this bank holiday weekend, again I've been on with all the little jobs piping up the engine breather into the catch tank, making the battery securing strap and brackets. but the main item I've been on with is altering the seat unit where it joins the tank, I'm trying to make a pattern and then cutting the seat up so I can get it remade, it;s hard to cut up a new seat though. I have put off the painting until I get the seat done. ( I have to go over to the painter to collect my DT175MX tank back after being repaired). I'm still waiting for the screen to arrive but hopefully it will be with me this week and I will get on with fitting it, while I'm waiting for the seat I might strip the bike and get the frame powder coated and then build it before it goes to paint. I'll try and get some photos posted just to prove I not stalled with this project. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted June 2 What could be better, just fitted the screen while listening to the TT practice on Manx radio. Thought you should have a few photos. Screen fitted but will need a little trim A photo with the seat off, you can see the rear exhaust and the new catch tank. The last one is a riders eye view 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutchy 2760 Posted June 2 Better than sex...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trooper1999 35 Posted July 11 Not much left of my project now, the frame, wheels etc are at the powder coasters, various other bits are being aqua blasted, should be collecting them all on Saturday and then start the final build. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
