CDNbacon Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Hi there, I own a 2005 VFR although I'm sad to say its been sitting in the garage and only been ridden 2-3 times in the last couple years so I've decided to sell it (I ride mostly dirt bikes nowadays... safer than the roads of Houston lol). The bike runs great, I've kept up on oil changes and starting it once a month however the fork seals are leaking and I can't sell it in good conscious until the seal are fixed and its safe to ride. Here's my problem and a bit of back history: When I bought the bike (5-6 years ago) the seals leaked and I had them changed at the stealership however at the time they advised that the chrome tubes had some pitting. 2 years later (if that) the seals were leaking again and the bike had minimal usage. Here we are years later and oil is pooling on the tire so its been leaking past the seals just sitting in storage so something needs to be done. My options: try to sell it as is with a disclaimer that it needs new seals (possibly new tubes) or try to fix it myself. I'm rebuild my dirt bike suspension all the time so I'm not scared to make the attempt although I don't have a manual or know what tools, torques etc I would need to change the seals/bushings. How do I tell if the tubes need to be replaced? What is bad pitting? ( I didn't see myself last time although i can't feel anything on the tubes if I run my hand along it; Where do I find a maintenance guide to rebuild the forks? Torque values, what tools I need etc. Any advice? I really just want to get rid of the bike, its in great shape other wise with only 10,000 miles on it and someone would could really enjoy the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kingmdm Posted February 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2016 Sell the bike if you can. Alternatively, the forks aren't hard to rebuild. Lots of YouTube vids to show you how to do it. When the fork tubes are out, use fine steel wool with Maguires Mag polish and smooth the pitted surface. Finish them with just the polish and a rag for a mirror shine. Use OEM seals and 10WHonda fork oil when reassembling. Remember to losten the fork caps while their still in the fork bridge and use an impact driver to loosen fork damper retainer bolt on the bottom of the fork to avoid common rebuilding mistakes. You should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted February 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2016 As for torque settings and other useful info, go to the downloads section of the forum and you'll find the Honda Service Manual. It's been updated several times making it searchable and even smaller file size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted February 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2016 Inspect your fork tubes for nicks caused by rocks. If you have any, carefully file off the high spots and smooth the area with 600 or finer sandpaper. Fork seals start leaking often on unused bikes. Try slipping a very fine feeler gauge between the tube and the seal and work it all around. That often will clear whatever is causing the weep (unless it is caused by a torn seal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Inspect your fork tubes for nicks caused by rocks. If you have any, carefully file off the high spots and smooth the area with 600 or finer sandpaper. Fork seals start leaking often on unused bikes. Try slipping a very fine feeler gauge between the tube and the seal and work it all around. That often will clear whatever is causing the weep (unless it is caused by a torn seal). Yup, that I'm aware although it leaked when the bike was used and it leaked when the bike was stored. I can't win lol. Sell the bike if you can. Alternatively, the forks aren't hard to rebuild. Lots of YouTube vids to show you how to do it. When the fork tubes are out, use fine steel wool with Maguires Mag polish and smooth the pitted surface. Finish them with just the polish and a rag for a mirror shine. Use OEM seals and 10WHonda fork oil when reassembling. Remember to losten the fork caps while their still in the fork bridge and use an impact driver to loosen fork damper retainer bolt on the bottom of the fork to avoid common rebuilding mistakes. You should be good to go. Sell it as-is? Unfortunately it doesn't have a current safety inspection nor registration and I doubt anyone would want it without those. I have no issues getting it current but I'm leery to ride it and do the brake test with fork oil leaking. Thanks for some quick replies guys. Here's 2 more for you... If I could find a buyer as-is with leaky seals and non-current inspection, how much do you figure would be fair to knock off the normal asking price? (dealership charges $300 to change fork seals, and new tubes are $200 on ebay from China); If I decide to try to change the seals, what do y'all advise to jack up and block the bike to take the front wheel / forks off? I don't have one of those fancy roller telescopic bike stands for street bikes. I do have a 2 ton car jack and some block of woods? or do you think that would be too much pressure on the exhaust pipes which run below the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coupedupsubie Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 You are going to have to take all the plastic body pieces off the front in orders to pull the forks anyway. I have slung bikes up using ratchet straps going to the ceiling. If you have an engine hoist that works as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted February 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2016 You can pull the forks out with the bodywork attached (at least I can on my 5th gen). Before you get started, loosen the axle clamps and bolt, and the caliper bolts.Also loosen the fork caps. With the bike on the centrestand lift the front end on some wood under the headers, as far to the front as you can and still keep on a flat section of pipe. Pull off the fender and the brake hose bolts at the top of the fork leg. With the brake calipers off and the wheel out, reach up under the fairing and you can reach the lower clamp bolts. Loosen the handlebar clamps, remove the circlip, then loosen the upper clamp and the fork leg should slide right out of the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coupedupsubie Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I forget most people have center stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 23, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2016 oh for gods sake people... dont say " fine steel wool ".. give the exact stuff. 0000 thats FOUR ZERO steel wool. aka polishing grade.. not triple zero or double.. use 0000 steel wool!!!! leave the fork IN the tree! it acts as a perfect round clamp... as it is one! just jack up the bike.. support with straps if you can, in case some dumbass friend decides to see" whats goin on" and bumps it.. take off lower fork tube.. now remove the upper tube.. clean it polish the tube with 0000 steel wool and wd40 wipe off tube.. add fork oil to a rag wipe the tube ..aka adding a little lube to help the seal slide down.. add the fork seal from the top..slide in place assemble the lower fork.. put fork in tree.. add oil and spring and install cap.. presto one is done.. follow the link for more info http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75094-fork-seal-installation/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yup... I totally forgot about the bike having a center stand. Doh! So I was looking at the cost of parts and seals and bushing are pretty cheap. I'm used to changing seals on dirt bike which need a seal driver to seat the seal. Do you need any special tools (such as a fork driver) to change the seals? Ugh...never mind. Just read the installation thread that was posted above. PVC it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 23, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2016 . Do you need any special tools (such as a fork driver) to change the seals? read the post just above yours... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 So, watched the video on youtube and I've been through the service manual. Quick question, do you need to separate the fork bolt from the damper rod or can you remove the bottom bolt and pull the spring and damper assembly out in one go? although doing that, I suppose it would be a major pain when going to fill with new oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 23, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2016 the first thing you do.. impact gun and long allen socket and take the bolt out of the bottom. yes its going to be nasty when the oil comes out. so have a pan under the fork and towels or rags to wipe up.. remover lower leg.. then remove the cap on the top of the fork.. etc etc.follow the manual .. when you fill the fork with oil which is the 2nd to last thing you so. use long tapper funnel. stick in the middle of the spring and slowly pour in the oil. cap instal is last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 What's the odds the bushings are bad and need to be replaced? or just order seals? Getting anxious to order parts ahead of taking the forks apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted February 25, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2016 If it were mine and a bike I intended to keep, I'd probably change them. Relative to the hassle of taking it all apart again, they're cheap. Kind of depends on how thorough a job you want to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Alight, everything came off the bike pretty easy however as you can see there is a ton of brake dust stuck to the fork tubes (brake dust / fluid mix). This is what led me to believe I had a problem in the first place, between the brake dust on the tubes and after a ride I'd find this wind smeared blackish fluid smear on my lower cowling behind the tire. Is that much brake dust normal? or does that mean the brake pads are toast? There is lots of meat left on the pads. Forks: Had some initial fluid on the inner tube but after cleaning up and compressing with body weight (5") or so they don't appear to be leaking. This caused a moment of doubt that maybe it wasn't the forks and maybe its brake fluid? However inspecting the tubes clearly you can see there is some pitting on the inner tubes. Thoughts? Remember, goal is to sell the bike not to keep it so options are: change bushings and seals and reassemble or put back on as it, or try to find some inner tubes on flea-bay (chinese knock offs' or such). I really want to get rid of the bike so I'm thinking to put the new bushings and seals on and get rid of it. Thoughts? Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted March 6, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2016 I always seem to spill oil down the fork tubes when I refill the forks, so initially it will look like a leaky seal. The black gunge on your fork legs looks like fork oil + brake dust. For that level of leakage you'd have noticed the brake fluid level dropping if it was a brake fluid leak, so very likely to have been fork oil from a damaged seal. If the brake pads have plenty of meat left then don't replace them. Some pitting in the fork tubes is inevitable; so long as you've filed down any high spots the seal should work fine for a good length of time. Fit new oil and dust seals. If you're selling the bike then new bushings aren't going to affect the sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNbacon Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 So, I finally did the seal change out job the other night. Man that was so easy. Way easier than my dirt bikes! Took a total of 2 hours start to finish for both... and good ol PVC and a hose clamp worked just fine for a seal driver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.