Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 I'm usually not too bad with electronics (I've had to learn), but this one has me stumped. A 2002 with 70k miles, new to me, a FZ-1 fuseblock with only the on board voltmeter connected. Now the stats: VDC at idle: 13.4V VDC at 5k: 13.0V I suspected either the stator or the RR. So I inspect the stator: Ohms between pins: 0.2-0.3 on all three Ohms to ground: no continuity VAC at idle: 25ishV between all three VAC at 5k: 80-90V between all three In the interest of full disclosure, I was never able to test the RR successfully on my 3rd gen. But the stator seems good except for the VAC at 5k. But the manual says nothing about VAC, so I don't know if this is in the upper range of OK, or not. And I would think if the RR is ok, then too much VAC should give me too much VDC. Input? Opinions? Am I right, wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 AC voltage is spot on. Sounds like your RR is on the way out. I suggest Rick's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 14, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 I've had good luck with Ricks on my 3rd gen. I thought desired VAC at idle was 20V, and at 5k was 60V, but I'm happy to learn I'm incorrect. I'll do some shopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 that stator voltage looks to be from one of those "high output" after market ricks, electrosport etc... units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted September 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 I've just done the same tests on my '04. (OEM stator and R/R). My stator voltage at 5K RPM is about 60 VAC. What has me puzzled is the R/R 5K RPM voltage. I'm getting 15.5 VDC. Everyone is telling me that is too high. The factory shop manual says <15.5 VDC is OK. The diode test of the R/R checks out. Do I have a bad R/R? Or is it an acceptable one at the high end of the range? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 15.5 will boil the electrolyte in the battery 90vac stator voltage will cook an RR 15.5vdc will cook a battery you guys need to straghten this out before you fry the ecu, battery, main harness etc... and have real problems $$$$$$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 <blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' data-author="Conedodger" data-cid="1013319" data-time="1442243024">Conedodger, on 14 Sept 2015 - 11:03 AM, said:<p>I've just done the same tests on my '04. (OEM stator and R/R). My stator voltage at 5K RPM is about 60 VAC. What has me puzzled is the R/R 5K RPM voltage. I'm getting 15.5 VDC. Everyone is telling me that is too high. The factory shop manual says Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I have tested my vtec a few times. stock stator output in the 60 VAC range ricks/electrosport in the 90VAC range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Conedodger Posted September 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 I just ordered a Roadstercycle moffsett R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 14, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 Great minds think alike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 18, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2015 So either the new RR has the same problem, or its something else. My VDC at @ idle is now 12.8, @ 5k RPM 12.4. Thoughts? I don't remember how old my battery is, but it is not currently a suspect. It seems to hold a charge just fine, and doesn't do any funny battery things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 20, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2015 I'm going to send the new rr back. I get worse voltage with it than with the original rr, which still isn't ideal. I'm sure the company will test it, and I'll post the outcome. I'll try the Shingen (not spelled right) since they have A good reputation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer pres589 Posted September 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2015 There's making sure the monitor wire has good connectivity to the battery. You may also want to check R/R output at the R/R wiring harness plug and not the battery to make sure that any insertion losses from terminations & connectors isn't dropping a bunch of voltage before it hits your battery. The R/R on my 6th gen was putting out about 14.5 at 2k RPM but I had .6 to .7 VDC drop at the battery terminal. I fixed that with a heavy gauge jumper and a wire straight to the battery post from the R/R and reduced the drop to .1 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Shindengen is the original brand of R/R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Different combinations of stator and R/R makes will give different outputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 22, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2015 I followed the instructions for testing the RR provided by the seller of the unit. I think it tested out okay, 525, 526, 527 on the diode test off the negative lead. Tests off the positive lead were all open. Seems high for a MOSFET maybe, but what do I know? I'm still waiting to hear back from the seller regarding these results or further testing. This was called Test #1 after all, which leads me to believe there is more. '' HOW TO / Regulator Test #1 - Diode test • Set your meter on Diode mode. • Locate the positive and negative lead of your rectifier. (See figure 1) • Place the positive lead of the meter to the negative lead of the rectifier. • With your negative meter lead touch all 3 phase pins on your rectifier. Your meter should read 0,400 and 0,600 on all three entries. If not, (Example: 0,475/0,475/0,280) your rectifier is defective. • Place the positive lead of the meter to the positive lead of the rectifier. • With your negative meter lead touch all 3 phases pins on your rectifier. Your meter should indicate OL (Open Loop) on all three entries. If it does not, your rectifier is defective. Mosfet regulator rectifier: For Mosfet rectifiers, it will be the same test but diode scale will change. It could be lower than 0,400. Just remember that all diodes need to be equal.'' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 22, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2015 What RPM is your idle set to? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the key off? What is the battery voltage with the engine off and the key on? What brand RR are you working with? Is the stator stock or aftermarket? Did your model have a stator recall? If so, has the stator recall been done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 23, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 My idle is at 1k. Battery voltage key off is 12.6, key on 12.3. BRand of rr and stator is unknown. It's a new to me bike and I don't trust previous owner mods. I don't know about the stator recall, but I know the blue connector mid has been completed. I saw the indent next to the vin required as per the recall requirement. It bike is supposed to have the vfrness, but I'm not 100% confident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 Ok. Your idle is a little low. The manual calls for 1200, and I usually set mine to 1400 too reduce engine braking and eliminate stalls when pulling in the clutch (weird problem, but the higher idle fixed it for me). Your battery voltages look good. I'd try a sh775 or fh020 RR. Wire straight to the stator on that end, and straight to the battery on the other end. (Use of the sh775 is only recommended if you keep the rpms below 10k. higher than that and the vfr will produce a high voltage condition, which could fry things if you spend a lot of time up high in rev range.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 If you have the VFRness you'll have 2 20 amp main fuses rather than 1 30 amp. It plugs in to the R/R at the right side rad hose and routes through the frame along with the stator wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 23, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 I'll trace the wires later this week, but I think this may be a case of incorrect advertising. I'm a big fan of the vfrness on my 3rd gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 23, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2015 I am intentionally withholding identifying information until things get resolved. I have no reason to believe that this company will not act with integrity, but I don't want to start to weigh in one way or another until things settle. Today's response: Dear, Hello, We would like to have this returned for testing. Please note your return authorization number: 25### Please write the RA number on the box for identification purposes RA25### 395 Main Street Anytown, CA 9#### We are eagerly waiting to take care of your issue as soon as possible. Please contact us if you have any questions regarding the return process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer pres589 Posted September 24, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 24, 2015 Not like it's a fun job, but I'd plan on pulling the stator cover offer, and visually examining the unit. If it looks pretty well burned I'd replace it as a maintenance item. Gasket for the stator cover may be a long lead part so I'd order that now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Not like it's a fun job, but I'd plan on pulling the stator cover offer, and visually examining the unit. If it looks pretty well burned I'd replace it as a maintenance item. Gasket for the stator cover may be a long lead part so I'd order that now. Let me know if you need a gasket, I keep them on hand. Not generally worth buying alone but I hate cutting them as I am all thumbs at times! The Ricks Stator is wound via a different method than the OEM. I wouldn't suggest a Ricks stator for a 2002 however as I don't know that it is compatible with the recalled rotor they used for that year. High AC voltage shouldn't be that big of a problem, the amperage potential is the same and a good R/R can handle it. If you get over 14.8V from an aftermarket R/R you have a problem. If you get over 14.8 from the OEM you have a monitor wire problem...if it has the VFRness and no recall work then check that the monitor wire at the R/R has battery voltage with the key on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 29, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 29, 2015 I got a Ricks RR (which is what I believe was on there originally now that I can compare the two physically), and I am now actually getting more voltage at 5k than I am at idle, but it still seems low. 13.1 and 13.7. It's been a few weeks since I ridden her, and testing can wear on a battery, so I'm not overly concerned but 14.4 would be a lot cooler. Now someone correct me if I'm wrong. If my wiring was sub par, wouldn't I see the effects at both idle and 5k? Cuz idle voltage is damn near ideal I think. What I should have done is got the Shindengen FH...20. Thanks for the offer Tightwad. I'm probably going to look at the stator when I do my next oil change. You can include the gasket in my next order for this gen's VFRness. I'll be in touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.