Lint Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Hey all, I'm going to go this route for my 05. Will this work, or do I need something different? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/380458202913 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudo Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 You'll need two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 True. Looks like my dad is going to get me two for my upcoming birthday! Install question. How do I know how to get the proper tension? Does anyone have any install experience? Do I just install then carefully tighten until I feel some pressure, start it up then adjust just until the chain is quiet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 I found this online: http://blog.biker.ie/2013/10/vfr800-rc46-rear-cam-chain-tensioner.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted August 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 20, 2015 Just a question... How do you keep the threads from leaking oil? Seems like they would just drip, drip, drip? What am I missing? Do you use sealant around the jam nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2015 Teflon tape the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer huntinggunns Posted August 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2015 There is an internal o-ring on the adjuster bolt, no need for anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Stupid question time. Do I not worry about the cap on the manual tensioner, as there is no way to attach it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer huntinggunns Posted August 25, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2015 Lint, if you are referring to the cap on the original tensioner it is not used on the Ape tensioner. If you google those there is an installation video on line that will show you how. I just looked at the one you purchased, out just bolts straight in. The adjuster bolt head rides against the tensioner shoe. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted August 25, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2015 I put some APE tensioners into my VTR1000F. To set the tension on this I was advised to look for 5-7mm play (total up+down) in the chain between the two cam sprockets. So you need to get the valve covers off, and in the case of the VTR you also need to unbolt the guide shoe that sits above the chain run between the sprockets. The cams need to be in the same position as for a valve check (i.e. lobes not in contact with the followers). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 I'm bringing this thread back to life to supplement question I aked in another thread. As stated by Terry above, the VTR100F advised 5-7mm toatl play, but I cannot find anything about that for the 6th Gen. Does anyone know how to find the info? I've Googled it by I am coming up empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 My local dealer couldn't find anything, so I put a call into Honda. I am waiting to hear back. APE did show this, via Google. To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. Mine was WAY too tight! Thankfully, I haven't ridden too terribly much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I put some APE tensioners into my VTR1000F. To set the tension on this I was advised to look for 5-7mm play (total up+down) in the chain between the two cam sprockets. So you need to get the valve covers off, and in the case of the VTR you also need to unbolt the guide shoe that sits above the chain run between the sprockets. The cams need to be in the same position as for a valve check (i.e. lobes not in contact with the followers). That sounds like a major pain in the ass versus just replacing the originals every 30-50k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2015 I put some APE tensioners into my VTR1000F. To set the tension on this I was advised to look for 5-7mm play (total up+down) in the chain between the two cam sprockets. So you need to get the valve covers off, and in the case of the VTR you also need to unbolt the guide shoe that sits above the chain run between the sprockets. The cams need to be in the same position as for a valve check (i.e. lobes not in contact with the followers). That sounds like a major pain in the ass versus just replacing the originals every 30-50k miles. You maybe right with respect to the VFR. For us VTR owners, the camchain tensioners don't just go noisy, they let go altogether, the chain jumps on the sprockets and the next thing you have is at least bent valves but often a damaged piston. It is a sadly common occurrence for the VTR, so manual CCT's were my first "upgrade". To look at this another way, the manual CCT's need to be checked about as often as valve clearances, and require exactly the same degree of teardown to access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yup, you're totally right about the VFR vs VTR CCT debate. Me and my superhawk friend had this same exact conversation a few months back. But, the Honda specified 16,000 mile valve inspections, are pretty much optional on the VFR. The vtr on the other hand, I wouldn't be surprised if they are mandatory and could cause an engine to eat itself early if not done often enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2015 Actually the valve gear is pretty similar between the two; obviously bigger/heavier on the VTR, but the actual design is the same in terms of the shim under bucket arrangement. My understanding is that with this gear, you get a reduction in clearance as the valve wears into the seat. The VTR (compared to the VFR) is a slow revving old beast and I rarely have it much over 5000 rpm for any length of time, so I doubt it would give the valve seats a hard time. I guess time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Good point. I can believe it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.