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Intake Valve Carbon Build Up


rydfly

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I have that carbon build up to. With 2012 VFR1200F lives in Belgium and 65000 Km on the dash. Tried, two months ago, Kent additive to eliminate this carbon but no results.

How are you inspecting for carbon?

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Off course! open the valves. Contact on open throttle.

If I remember correctly the valves did not open with a twist of the throttle with or without the ignition on (engine off). Is that correct? If so how did you get the valves to open?

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Off course! open the valves. Contact on open throttle.

If I remember correctly the valves did not open with a twist of the throttle with or without the ignition on (engine off). Is that correct? If so how did you get the valves to open?

like I said: Contact on, open throttle. who said that "valves do not open"??? It's easy to try.

Butterfly valves ?

Honda-V4-sketch-engine.jpg

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like I said: Contact on, open throttle. who said that "valves do not open"??? It's easy to try.

Yes, if I recall that didn't work when I had my air filter out a couple of weeks ago. Maybe I am remembering wrong. Why are you saying "try"? It either worked for you or it didn't.

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It worked for me but Did you ever tried. I now it's a lot of work to get there. No sense to discus day's about it, do it. I did it a month ago.

And yes butterfly valves.

And to be shure: 2012 Euro VFR1200F with gulh flash. Don't now it ever change, other years, but you never now.

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FWIW, at 22k miles I looked at my intake valves since I had everything apart to check my valve clearances. The intake valves on the front cylinders were totally clean. The back two cylinders had carbon deposits covering about 25% of the valve surface (visible side obviously). Not sure why there is a difference between the front and rear cylinders - anyone have an idea why this might be?

I treat the fuel system with Techron (one bottle over two tanks) every ~4k miles, before every oil change.

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because the intake valves are closed while the carbon is present in the cylinder and exiting thru the exhaust valves

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because cylinde valves are closed while the carbon is present in the cylinder and exiting thru the exhaust valves

Yes, but the same thing is happening on the front cylinders and they have no build up.

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... Not sure why there is a difference between the front and rear cylinders - anyone have an idea why this might be?

If it's only the rear 2 cylinders, I would guess that they are drawing in oil from the crankcase breather vent (which is attached at the rear of the airbox).

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... Not sure why there is a difference between the front and rear cylinders - anyone have an idea why this might be?

If it's only the rear 2 cylinders, I would guess that they are drawing in oil from the crankcase breather vent (which is attached at the rear of the airbox).

I like this theory as there have been indications that running the VFR1200 even a little bit high on oil level has led to carbon build up on the intake valves. I always run mine at the upper limit. I am going to start running at no more than halfway between the hi/low level marks.

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Cosider running only 'Top Tier Gasoline'. Not all gasoline is created equal, thus all this carbon crap. Also, I add Lucas Fuel treatment to all my gasoline. 3 oz. per 10 gal. Doesn't cost anything. Had this problem on my Honda Civic at 250K. Premature Detonation caused by CCCI. Combustion Chamber Carbon Interference. It now has over 420K and runs Fantastically ! Regular Lucas Fuel Treatment will cure this problem. I'm just Sayin' :)

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So disconnecting the breather would be a(the) solution? Did someone tried this? I note that each time I took it to the dealer for oil changing the put to much oil in the engine. The last time they did it I took the time to take out the oil to the upper limit. I measured it and it was 200 CC.

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Marginally off topic, but what's the best additive to help keep carbs clean? I've had the same fuel in my vfr750 for about two months now and it's starting to play on my mind that it'll turn into snot. Not bothered about a stabiliser, just something to clear out any potential deposits. I'm running a dynojet kit if that makes any difference.

Oh, I'm not in a position to ride the bike at the moment for a few reasons, so I can't use up the fuel that way or drain it - shoulder injury basically.

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Marginally off topic, but what's the best additive to help keep carbs clean? I've had the same fuel in my vfr750 for about two months now and it's starting to play on my mind that it'll turn into snot. Not bothered about a stabiliser, just something to clear out any potential deposits. I'm running a dynojet kit if that makes any difference.

Oh, I'm not in a position to ride the bike at the moment for a few reasons, so I can't use up the fuel that way or drain it - shoulder injury basically.

In the good'ol days we would run a tank of "Amoco white gas" but now dont know maybe tank of aviation fuel .

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haha, would NOT know how/where to get aviation fuel - an airport/airfield I presume, none of which would let someone with a hi-viz and a stupid little pass anywhere near them.

Can I order it on Ebay? :D

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haha, would NOT know how/where to get aviation fuel - an airport/airfield I presume, none of which would let someone with a hi-viz and a stupid little pass anywhere near them.

Can I order it on Ebay? :D

No doubt it .

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09-38050.JPG

This stuff looks promising .


Fuel Fresh prevents gasoline from going stale. This process called Autoxidation occurs when oxygen reacts with fuel, thereby forming gum and varnish. Auto gas is particularly susceptible, losing octane performance and flammability, resulting in greater possibility for detonation. Add Fuel Fresh and preserve fuel up to 24 months, maintain octane, prevent gum varnish, clean fuel system, and inhibit corrosion. Quick starts and clean burn are assured. Safe for 2 or 4 cycle engines. Handy measuring bottle.

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