Member Contributer tomk1960 Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Just released a little earlier this evening, my newest YouTube how-to video covers fork seal removal and replacement. My technique is simple and doesn't call for a lot of expensive specialty tools, so hopefully it will motivate the first-timer to take on the job. I've been wanting to do this video for a while, so when it was time to do the fork seals on my VF750F recently, the timing was perfect. Special thanks to Jordan for another outstanding job with lights, sound, video, and editing. My son Joey helped behind the second camera and wrote and performed the blues tune heard at the beginning and end of the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Just curious - do you change fork oil at any particular mileage interval or wait until the seals show signs of leaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Great job. I assume the bike was used when you purchase it . Whata you gonna do with that Evinrude ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Just curious - do you change fork oil at any particular mileage interval or wait until the seals show signs of leaking? My guess is mileage, cos the seals on my OEM forks (from 1997, 60k miles) are still very much leak-free.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Another nice one Tom. I've had good luck keeping the cap on when trying to loosen the bottom allen bolt without an air gun. The spring and spacer add a little resistance to help stop things from spinning. Sometimes it still spins but like I said, I've had good luck. I do use an air gun too. Thanks for taking the time and showing folks that nothing on a bike should be intimidating, it's all in just knowing how ahead of time and diving in. Keep 'em coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tomk1960 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Great job. I assume the bike was used when you purchase it . Whata you gonna do with that Evinrude ? The VF750F? Yes, it had 6110 miles on it when I got it last spring. The Evinrude goes with my little 12" aluminum boat that I use for fishing in the local ponds. I usually use an electric trolling motor since it's quieter and easier to deal with when loading/unloading from the trailer. I was wondering when someone was going to ask about that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misspent Youth Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for putting this together. Unfortunately for me, the only thing I needed to see was how the lower bushing was removed/replaced, and that's the only thing you didn't do! As for starting the fork cap under spring pressure, a tip that worked for me is to find the thread engagement point while the spring is out and mark the tube and cap with a marker. I then install the spring and line up the marks for a clean thread start with little risk of cross-threading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roebling3 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Excellent, Tom. Thank you. Had hoped to see you @ R-o-R. Some great looking Honda's there. Good fortune, R3~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted September 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 aaah the could old "BAHCO" or english wrench!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tomk1960 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for putting this together. Unfortunately for me, the only thing I needed to see was how the lower bushing was removed/replaced, and that's the only thing you didn't do! As for starting the fork cap under spring pressure, a tip that worked for me is to find the thread engagement point while the spring is out and mark the tube and cap with a marker. I then install the spring and line up the marks for a clean thread start with little risk of cross-threading. That's an easy one that I can explain here. Just slip a regular screwdriver with a fairly wide blade into the split in the bush. Turn the screwdriver in the split enough so that it spreads out the bush and expands it's I.D. Once it's a little larger than the fork tube O.D., you can slip it right over the end. Putting a new one on is even easier. Just carefully start to slip it onto the end of the fork tube and it will open up and let you slide it down. You can use the screwdriver trick again if you need to. There's so much more I could have covered in the video but the intent was to keep it mainly on seal removal and replacement. My video editor kept telling me it was too long and I had to explain to him that I can't skip important steps. Every video can't be 5 minutes long, but try telling that to someone who has never even changed their own oil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misspent Youth Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for putting this together. Unfortunately for me, the only thing I needed to see was how the lower bushing was removed/replaced, and that's the only thing you didn't do! As for starting the fork cap under spring pressure, a tip that worked for me is to find the thread engagement point while the spring is out and mark the tube and cap with a marker. I then install the spring and line up the marks for a clean thread start with little risk of cross-threading. That's an easy one that I can explain here. Just slip a regular screwdriver with a fairly wide blade into the split in the bush. Turn the screwdriver in the split enough so that it spreads out the bush and expands it's I.D. Once it's a little larger than the fork tube O.D., you can slip it right over the end. Putting a new one on is even easier. Just carefully start to slip it onto the end of the fork tube and it will open up and let you slide it down. You can use the screwdriver trick again if you need to. There's so much more I could have covered in the video but the intent was to keep it mainly on seal removal and replacement. My video editor kept telling me it was too long and I had to explain to him that I can't skip ijmportant steps. Every video can't be 5 minutes long, but try telling that to someone who has never even changed their own oil! Thanks for the additional explanation. Your written communication's as good as your video - a gift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer unbalanced Posted September 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2014 Well done Tom. Thanks for taking the time to do these, great references! BTW, you have a few plates coming your way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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