Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 19, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2014 Tomorrow will be raining cats and dogs (and I will 1st need to re-assemble all the bodywork....) But on Friday I can do a few laps around the block (staying as close to home as possible) Whilst she is naked, I took -and will continue to take- FULL advantage of the opportunity to explere her every nook and cranny... I found a nasty greasy emulsion inside her.... Had a look inside her secondary air filter for the 1st time in 16 years......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 PS the NC was a awesome. It was like riding while setting in your favorite arm chair. When aging the need for an armchair rises. As soon as i am 50+ i will buy a goldwing with armrests. Tomorrow will be raining cats and dogs (and I will 1st need to re-assemble all the bodywork....) But on Friday I can do a few laps around the block (staying as close to home as possible) Whilst she is naked, I took -and will continue to take- FULL advantage of the opportunity to explere her every nook and cranny... I found a nasty greasy emulsion inside her.... Had a look inside her secondary air filter for the 1st time in 16 years......... post-5787-0-36237500-1392829741.jpg Its seems, all the electrical problems are a punishment for pure neglect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 19, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2014 WTH is that did you throwup in your airbox ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 19, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2014 Tomorrow will be raining cats and dogs (and I will 1st need to re-assemble all the bodywork....) But on Friday I can do a few laps around the block (staying as close to home as possible) Whilst she is naked, I took -and will continue to take- FULL advantage of the opportunity to explere her every nook and cranny... I found a nasty greasy emulsion inside her.... Had a look inside her secondary air filter for the 1st time in 16 years......... post-5787-0-36237500-1392829741.jpg SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON . Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda. Pretty dam impressed with it. Handled better then 5th Gen . ​blaspheme!!!!! Just kiddin ... you shall do the honda rosary and 3 hail VFRS! Blaspheme him him him ! ! ! Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda. Pretty dam impressed with it. So quit posting smileys and give us a ride report Gonna let Kimball do one, it was his new bike. But the little 48hp motor was more then enough for the bike . He reports people are obtaining 70 mpg. We left from the Calderwood Dam overlook headed towards Deals Gap and got it in 5th gear and never shifted again, we were running 50 55 mph and the bike never struggle to kept up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 4th gen owners think alike Dutchy...... At least when it comes to trying to cool 4th gen RRs........ I installed the same kind of heat sink on my original RR many years ago (way before I saw pictures of yours), but it still failed at around 15K miles on my bike when it quit giving anything over 10 volts to the charging system. No sign of burning on the unit, but it just does not work anymore. I still suspect that me using silicone glue on the heat sink to attach it on to the RR did not help as silicone works well as an insulator and not a heat conductor, so maybe not too much heat reached the heat sink for dissipation..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2014 Get to work Dutchy !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 20, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2014 No Switch, Yoshua from wiremybike.com will get to work; making me a VFRness that will accept the 98-01 MOSFET RR on my 4th Gen that he will furnish too With my mallet finger in a splint for another 5 weeks, long trips in the near future are a no no anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2014 10-4 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 20, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2014 Don't I get kudos for sourcing in the USA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2014 Only because Thurn does not make it ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 21, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2014 The forecasted "dry" Friday is not emerging, so no progress will be made today. Maybe for the best, since last night was far from dry.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hmmmmm .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 21, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2014 The right handlebar switch/wiring continues to bother me/give high ohm readings. so let me ask again: I have unscrewed the top cap and cannot access the wiring. Must I now unhook the throthe cable at the carbs or is there a trick to get the lower part of the switchgear of the bar without having to do so??? Scrap that; if I measure the switch itself Bl/W and R/Y the resistance very quickly jump to almost 0. Where I DO measure (meter on 2k) resistance of 1.4 ohm is the R/Y wire between the red 9 prone plug at the front and the starter realy switch (keeping the starter switch on the right handle bar pressed in) On the relay starter switch between R/Y and G/R (the $p red plug) the meter jumps to almost zero (which is good in my book). Oh baby, why you do this to me???? On another question........... Smoke on the Water???? Fire in the Sky? Just for kicks, with the airbox off, I fired up the engine briefly and revved a bit. Just 10 seconds or so With the engine off again, I noticed that when I open the throttle a bit, smoke rises from one of the stacks. Only one off them... see small clip; (the ticking is the throttle closing) http://s113.photobucket.com/user/Dutchy_748/media/VIDEO0066_zps29c8908f.mp4.html Is this normal? I had the choke on at full and perhaps that only "feeds" that cilinder? Or is this a sign that there is something more ominous? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Uhmm.....maybe because your intake valves for that cylinder is in the open position when the engine stopped?? I would think the bike would run badly/roughly if something was wrong.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 21, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2014 phew! Yeah they didnot teach me much engine/technical knowledge in business school..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 The right handlebar switch/wiring continues to bother me/give high ohm readings. so let me ask again: I have unscrewed the top cap and cannot access the wiring. Must I now unhook the throthe cable at the carbs or is there a trick to get the lower part of the switchgear of the bar without having to do so??? Scrap that; if I measure the switch itself Bl/W and R/Y the resistance very quickly jump to almost 0. Where I DO measure (meter on 2k) resistance of 1.4 ohm is the R/Y wire between the red 9 prone plug at the front and the starter realy switch (keeping the starter switch on the right handle bar pressed in) On the relay starter switch between R/Y and G/R (the $p red plug) the meter jumps to almost zero (which is good in my book). Oh baby, why you do this to me???? On another question........... Smoke on the Water???? Fire in the Sky? Just for kicks, with the airbox off, I fired up the engine briefly and revved a bit. Just 10 seconds or so With the engine off again, I noticed that when I open the throttle a bit, smoke rises from one of the stacks. Only one off them... see small clip; (the ticking is the throttle closing) http://s113.photobucket.com/user/Dutchy_748/media/VIDEO0066_zps29c8908f.mp4.html Is this normal? I had the choke on at full and perhaps that only "feeds" that cilinder? Or is this a sign that there is something more ominous? Don't trust your mistress anymore ? phew! Yeah they didnot teach me much engine/technical knowledge in business school..... time to get some education. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2014 Dont pour whisky down your carbs .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Why not i have some appeljuice stored away, strong enough to run an engine on. I will have to wait about a year, before it is tasteful enough to drink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 22, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2014 The quest continues..... The Y/R between red 9P plug in front of the bike and the red 4P plug starter relay switch does measure 1.4ohm resistance (ignition off, starter switch on right handlebar kept presses in), but the moment I turn igintion and start the engine it drops to 0.01. so that does not explain why the fuse (10A fuel ingintion syst) blew after me riding the bike 1000 meters. Will get her out in front and ride around the house for a while, with RR removed. And she got a new "maandverbandje" (one spare for the future) PS VFRBERT: 1 = Knob Creek 2 = The Wild Geese "Untamed" 3 = Yoichi 4 = An Turs Mor (Port Charlotte) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2014 This one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 22, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 22, 2014 That one is red/yellow and black/white.They go to the starter botton on the handle bar.When pressing the button resistance goes to zero.The red yellow goes from that red plug 9P to red 4P on top of the starter relay in front of the battery. Measuring between these points and pressing the starter button I get the 1.3ohm.But you only touch that briefly when starting. And today she fired up -as she did yesterday and the day before- no problem. And with the engine running, that circuit is open again.Drove around for some 10 minutes without rr and no problem occurred. Rode 10 minutes with the rr (it got too hot to touch very quickly but donot know if that is normal). But no blowen fuses.. (DAMM I was hoping for that....) Next set of measurement on a now warmed up engine;Measured at the rr, between red white + at the plug and ground she idles at 14.97 volts headlight disconnected. Revving up drops the volage but only minimal.Engine stopped, plug removed from rr I measured the 3 yellow wires resistance between them at the plug. Manual says that at 20celcius (we have 8c at the moment) resistance between the terminals should be between 1.0-2.0ohm. I measure 0.4- 0.5ohm only between all 3 combinations.For good measure :-) I also measured where the vfrness 3 yellow wires plug in the oem harness, same results (as expected)So,I did measure the rr resistance values to be out of spec, new mosfet and vfrness orderedI did replace the press on taps of the wiring to my sdc voltmeter and 12v Powerlet sockets with positaps. As i did this some water dripped from the outer mantle of the Powerlet wiring. But these run via a Bluesea fuse box with a 10a and that one is intact....So I am calling it a day: I have Wiremybike working for me now :-) so I wait for that. I have this splint on my left hand middle finger for another 5 weeks. Pulling the clutch vety awkward, so not taking chances riding anyway.In the mean time, if any of you have any bright ideas on what i could test or measure, be my guest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2014 Resistance between the 3 yellow alternator wires. As per above the manual says that at 20celcius (we have 8c at the moment) resistance between the terminals should be between 1.0-2.0ohm. I measure 0.4- 0.5ohm only between all 3 combinations what does this tell me? a) I should wait for 20C because the reading is heavily dependant on ambient temperature? (I had been running the engine for some 10 minutes) b) the altenator is on its way out? c) naff all, this is ok... Or must I measure resistance with the engine idling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2014 Stator's bad if the meter is good . Pull your stator cover off and inspect Can't wait for the pic's. Gotta be ugly !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Resistance between the 3 yellow alternator wires. As per above the manual says that at 20celcius (we have 8c at the moment) resistance between the terminals should be between 1.0-2.0ohm. I measure 0.4- 0.5ohm only between all 3 combinations what does this tell me? a) I should wait for 20C because the reading is heavily dependant on ambient temperature? (I had been running the engine for some 10 minutes) b) the altenator is on its way out? c) naff all, this is ok... Or must I measure resistance with the engine idling? Considering the temperature and the quality of your multi-meter i would say its ok. ac current between 2 yellow wires should be between 60 and 80 volts, rr disconnected Edit: The values in ohm should be between 0.1 and 1.0 ohm. The 1 ohm you mentioned is between the yellow wires from the rr. So your stator should be ok. Mabe this book will help you sorting out the eletric problems with the red slut: http://www.bol.com/nl/p/elektronica-voor-dummies/1001004009230540/ If not: Torch the dammed thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 3, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2014 Edit: The values in ohm should be between 0.1 and 1.0 ohm. The 1 ohm you mentioned is between the yellow wires from the rr. So your stator should be ok. You are right of course; I read the wrong line... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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