Jump to content

4Th Gen Electrics, So Now What?


Dutchy

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Member Contributer

which one? bl/w and y/r or also the other one?

With the key off the drawing shows Bat 2 is on that circuit also.

And remember you can kill the motor in two places one at the key switch and the other is the kill switch .

For me the only probIem have had with the key switch is no power to the starter and I once seen Kaw that would not turn off with the switch .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a fun hunt!

Another option is to disconnect everything in the circuit (if you haven't) and then try the key on/engine start (it won't of course) process. If no failure, plug one thing in and do it again. Continue this process until you find the offending part.

If the fuse blows with all items on the circuit disconnected then the wiring along the way is the obvious fault.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

To check that key switch i would unplug and check it. That way no external circuits can interfere with your measurements .


And what does the two green wire marked B\G and B\G go to .


If that is a ground wire you need to check all of them . I would recommend changing all your grounds.


And you need to see inside of that plug and look for poor connections and high resistance connections.


Must be out of Scotch ...


SORRY DUTCHY I AM HEADED TO THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON .

Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda.

Pretty dam impressed with it.


Handled better then 5th Gen . :goofy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON .

Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda.

Pretty dam impressed with it.

Handled better then 5th Gen . :goofy:

blaspheme!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON .

Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda.

Pretty dam impressed with it.

Handled better then 5th Gen . :goofy:

​blaspheme!!!!!

Just kiddin ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON .

Ran into couple of friends and got to ride the new NC700 Honda.

Pretty dam impressed with it.

Handled better then 5th Gen . :goofy:

​blaspheme!!!!!

Just kiddin ...

you shall do the honda rosary and 3 hail VFRS!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you shall do the honda rosary and 3 hail VFRS!

How does that go?

Hail VFR, full of grace.

Please don't toss me on my face. :goofy:

Rewire that thing Dutchy. :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

SORRY DUTCHY I"M BACK FROM RIDING THE WORLD FAMOUS DRAGON .

:worthlesswithoutpics:

Sorry Dutchy sunset comes early so no time for pic's but promise pic's are coming .

What about the bike any progress ?

The 5th gen and NC have the same spindly front forks , don't they ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

No progress, workday is not over.

(and it is raining)

will use my lunchbreak to read up on how to disasemble the kill switch/starter assembly (and adjust free throttle slack while I am at it)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

In between rainfall, I pulled the R/R after having established that -with ignition ON- I measure 12.5V between R/W (bottom left of plug) on RR and ground.

and that unplugged, I measure (on the plug at the end of the cable):

continuity on GREEN and measure 0.4ohm resistance between the Yellows (spec is between 0,2 and 2,0ohm)

But then..........

I took the RR (OEM since 97, 50k miles, spades/plug all clean)

post-8974-0-25341000-1392820097.jpg

inside and checked it on 2 different meters; both set to 2k.

What was strange is that I got different reading between the meters.... Maybe time to invest in a "proper" one? (these were very cheap.....)

But as you will see below, I think the RR is "naar de kloten"..... :wacko:

So will a farked RR cause what I experienced?

Bike starts up fine, ride for a mile then the 10A ignition/fuel syst fuse blows

put in a 10A it blow the moment you turn ignition on, put in a 20a and it will run (a while)

leave the engine overnight, put in a 10A bike starts up fine, 10A blows when revving?

Right, the contenders!!!

In the blue corner........ the saint ELRO's fire!!!!

post-8974-0-03032400-1392819564.jpg

post-8974-0-29626100-1392819584.jpg

In the red corner, as sung on soccer terraces across the the world... "FOCON, FOCON, with all of your hear, you never walk alone.."

post-8974-0-83895100-1392819769.jpg

post-8974-0-25780400-1392819724.jpg

This RR is TOAST no?

I had toasted sandwiches for lunch just now to celebrate this fact......

post-8974-0-42709000-1392819837.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Dutchy, get a 4th gen VFRness from Tightwad (wiremybike.com) upgraded for a 5th gen VFR ('98-'01) and a '98-'01 RR (Rick's) brand to go with it. Mine has worked perfectly for a couple years now. Just tell him what you want to do and he will modify it no problem. The 5th gen RR is much improved over the 4th gen.

Chuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I have a 4th Gen VFRness and with that (and the cooling fins), the OEM RR lasted 16 years/50k miles....

So I will give that a thought yes..... Rick+new VFRness $185 versus $75 for a replacement RR.............

So the 3ohm resistance on the starter switch (right handle bar see earlier post), is that an issue (still)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A toasted RR will blow fuses, but mostly the 30A main fuse. But i know strange things happens with toasted rr's. Look for a mosfet RR.

The 3 ohm resistance on the starter switch might be some oxidation causing resistance.

People driving a NC700 should get a perm ban over here. An nc700 isn't a bike, it is a MOPED. :goofy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

not all NC700's are the same.....

This is called a NC 700D

2012_Honda_NC700D_Integra.jpg

I test rode one and it is horrible,

This a NC700 X too...

2012-honda-nc700x-01.jpg


A toasted RR will blow fuses, but mostly the 30A main fuse. But i know strange things happens with toasted rr's. Look for a mosfet RR.

The 3 ohm resistance on the starter switch might be some oxidation causing resistance.

The 30A is still fine....

Hmm taking off the switch unit (according to the dutch manual) means unhooking the throtte cable from the carbs... Is that really neccessary?? :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dutchy it's agood idea, to try the suggestion Switchblade just made. Unplug the rr and sea wat happens. It's no problem starting the engine with the rr disconnected. Battery power is enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Did that already, fires up no problem.

But she fired up twice before, with the RR, no problem. Idled fine, only after riding 100 meter and the other time 1000 meter the fuse blew....

Yesterday and today she would idle/rev fine...

And therein lies the dilemma.......

Will tomorrow measure the RR with a third multimeter just to be sure....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

But leave the R\R unhook and pull the fuse to the headlights and see if the runs out ok. Just dont get a ticket.

R\R may be breaking down after a certain amount of time .


PSS sending you a full box of fuses. Be careful they are high performance 6th gen fuses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.