Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Since tje body will be off.. do the wire mod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 But that would mean putting a 30A fuse in where oem is 10A... Would that not cayse damage elsewhere?? Btw here is my poor mans viagra.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 I would suspect the R\R if its doing when you rev it up. Get it running and put your DVM across the battery and rev it up and see what your DC output is from the R\R .. But eat first .. 30 Amp fuse where ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 I would suspect the R\R if its doing when you rev it up. Get it running and put your DVM across the battery and rev it up and see what your DC output is from the R\R .. But eat first .. 30 Amp fuse where ? In the 10A slot for Ignition/fuel system. When you write "get it running and put your DVM.." I can only get the engine running if I put a stronger than 20A fuse in no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 I would suspect the R\R if its doing when you rev it up. Get it running and put your DVM across the battery and rev it up and see what your DC output is from the R\R .. But eat first .. 30 Amp fuse where ? In the 10A slot for Ignition/fuel system. When you write "get it running and put your DVM.." I can only get the engine running if I put a stronger than 20A fuse in no? But if it's not gonna stop blowing fuses check for dead short to ground . Dont put a bigger fuse in you could melt the wire and start a fire . Now that its blowing fuses you can use your meter and to find the problem . Look at the fuse holder and set meter on continuity find a good ground point and put one lead on it and put the other lead on the side of the fuse that goes to the component . If your read ohm's 1 ohm or less you are shorted to ground . Does it blow the fuses as soon as you turn on the key or does it blow when you try start it . Sorry got a little a head of myself . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Didn't you just change out your battery ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Yesterday, it blows fuses, when turning the key and the meter indicated a short to ground. I tested exactly, the way you just told. So i think, Dutchy has to look for chafed wires. The bike has a lot of extra wiring done, wich isn't protected by extra tape. And even the original wires when not routed properly will chafe and give problems. The wiring circuit from the fuel pump isn't very complicated, so Dutchy should be able to find it. He has to remove the upper fairing, to reach everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Yesterday, it blows fuses, when turning the key and the meter indicated a short to ground. I tested exactly, the way you just told. So i think, Dutchy has to look for chafed wires. The bike has a lot of extra wiring done, wich isn't protected by extra tape. And even the original wires when not routed properly will chafe and give problems. The wiring circuit from the fuel pump isn't very complicated, so Dutchy should be able to find it. He has to remove the upper fairing, to reach everything. Your on it Bert sounds right but did he not just change out his battery ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 nope, no new battery. :-) Looking up the service manual now on how to remove the top fairinng. Got the screen off so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 That's a start. In case of need use a sledgehammer. shortens the removal of the fairing substantially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 nope, no new battery. :-) Looking up the service manual now on how to remove the top fairinng. Got the screen off so far Brain Farted on that one . Hmmm ... Did you change the whole fuel pump or just the points on top ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 That's called a mallet finger and I did the same thing to my left ring finger a long time ago playing hockey. Ditch the splint and tape and get an Oval 8 splint. These work great. You don't have to worry about them getting wet. They have to be sized properly though so best if you can try them on. But they are relatively cheap so pick up a couple of sizes. Wish I had these 25+ years ago. http://www.3pointproducts.com/oval-8-finger-splint/treating-mallet-finger-with-oval-8--splints-faq/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 nope, no new battery. :-) Looking up the service manual now on how to remove the top fairinng. Got the screen off so far Brain Farted on that one . Hmmm ... Did you change the whole fuel pump or just the points on top ? He changed the points only, but yesterday i checked the pump. It's ok. The fuse also blew with the pump disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 nope, no new battery. :-) Looking up the service manual now on how to remove the top fairinng. Got the screen off so far Brain Farted on that one . Hmmm ... Did you change the whole fuel pump or just the points on top ? He changed the points only, but yesterday i checked the pump. It's ok. The fuse also blew with the pump disconnected. 10-4 the length time it took the fuses to blow after you work on it made think maybe the fuel pump was causing it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Nope, the fuses blew intstantly at turning the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 He also needs to check for continuity between the 2 circuits that are blowing the fuses , Mite be touching .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 16, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Well, I got her naked Good thing a biloba leaf keeps her private parts dignified..... But being the electrickery virgin that I am, it is slow going...... apart from a splitting headache, sun was setting too so I got to measure one thing only. Between the fuse box spade holder (black wire) to the end of the red nine plug; 0.04ohm so that is good methink. Between and (top of picture a bit under the flap, red 9 pin connector) Tomorrow 1st do a day's work. I will rain in the morning, but the rains will move away in the early afternoon so that is goodness! So what shall I measure tomorrow then? Please be as specific as possible (virgin remember... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Got to start checking to ground . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 16, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2014 Got to start checking to ground . yeah. i sent him a thread on how to mod his harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 17, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2014 That's called a mallet finger and I did the same thing to my left ring finger a long time ago playing hockey. Ditch the splint and tape and get an Oval 8 splint. These work great. You don't have to worry about them getting wet. They have to be sized properly though so best if you can try them on. But they are relatively cheap so pick up a couple of sizes. Wish I had these 25+ years ago. http://www.3pointproducts.com/oval-8-finger-splint/treating-mallet-finger-with-oval-8--splints-faq/ Found them here in NL, $45 per set http://www.premed.nl/oval-8-splint-vingerspalk I am happy/hopefull that the one supllied by the hospital is cheaper and thus keep the cost of our national healthcare down.... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 17, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2014 right, back into it...... Put in a 10A fuse and she started right up. Measure 14.6V at the battery terminnals (lights off) At 5,000rpm I get some 14.8V This looks ok to me. I let the engine idle for a while, went through the gears/rev range and the voltage stays below 14.9V Started fiddling/pushing the wiring harness on the right side near the radiator and noticed to the SDC LED voltmeter would reset itself (led changing color and becoming solid green again). I will see how much of the loom I can free up to inspect the rear.... Between the large red plug (previous picture) and the fuel relay (black wire) I measure 0.04ohm The quest continues!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2014 Your getting closer ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted February 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2014 I have 3 VFR harnesses in pieces at my house right now… I have learned that the harness is a lot less intimidating when you have the whole thing just sitting in front of you. I know it sounds like a crazy amount of work but if you had the time to pull the harness out (not necessarily as hard as you might think, just make sure to mark connections, harness routing and placement of components) and dig into the harness for a few evenings. Pulling off tape and investigating where the issue might be. If you have rubbing on a section of the harness it's probable there is is more than one wire compromised. Also, there are a lot of splices on the main power wires to and from the fuse panel and the ignition key switch… I wouldn't want those to be corroded or compromised. Just my thoughts, especially if you want many more years of trouble free service. But alas, I am also quite an electrical noob so my opinion is only so valuable. Hope you get it sorted duchy!! One random observation, Honda really beefed up the grounds from the 3rd to 4th gen… I was surprised when I compared the two harnesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2014 Could this be it???? Following the BL wire from the fuse box (Fuel Ingition Syst) I measured some 0.2 Ohm resistance (the same value if I push the two prones together). Ie between fuse box and fuel relay. Between engine stop (kill) switch, 0.2ohm. But measuring between B/W and Y/R (Starter Switch) and oushing and holding in the starter button I get at first a high value of say 20, jumps to 4-5 and then slooooowly counts down to about 3 ohms. I have opened the kill/start switch housing but the starter switch is at the bottom so I will read the manual on how to strip it more/get to it BUT Is 3 ohm resistance "normal" for a starter switch? (all measurements with ignition key in the off position) Cos if it is, I donot need to take the housing apart further.... The Blu/White and Black/Red in the starter switch assembly measured very high; at first 160 and now a consistent 1. (if I touch the prones one themselves the meter goes down to 0.2). Measuring Bu/W and BL/R with ignition switched on (engine not running) gives me -1. No idea what this means (am a virgin remember :-) ) In the mean time I 've sanded down the grounding point on the right (scuffed away the white oxidation) and on the left replaced this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thats not right Dutchy . That should be open . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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