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Funny thing on my VFR front Brakes (6th gen left side, secondary master cyl)


Audigier

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While washing my bike i noticed there is a hose clamp and what appears to be a piece of garden hose or something wraped around the secondary master cylinder, i dont know if this has something to do that the rear brake does not feel very responsive, on most bikes i've ridden specially sport bikes, its very easy to lock the rear wheel if i push the rear brake hard, on this vfr no matter how hard i push the rear brakes it wont lock up the wheel nor stop quickly i use both brakes. i kinda like it cuz its scary when the rear locks up but i wonder if this is OK, Should i remove the hose clamp and see why is it there? i dont know if it is preventing the secondary master cylinder from moving or just covering it from the dust how can i test if it is working? i dont want to mess around and screw something, its been like this since i got her and i dont want to have any troubles or leaks you know what they say, if its not broken dont fix it.

this bike is a non-abs model and i kinda like the way the brakes feel as most sport bikes i've riden is easy to lock both brakes and on this bike, brakes work really work for stoping the bike and so far i have never locked up any of the wheels

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Yeah, a pic would be the thing. Which master cylinder are you referring to as "the secondary master cylinder"? The one near the rear of the gas tank under the seat?

As far as not being able to lock up the rear. I couldn't either on my '99, well maybe if I would have really stood on the rear brake lever. Now that I have steel brake lines and EBC HH brake pads I can actually feel the rear brake doing something. I still don't know if I could lock it up, but it certainly contributes more than it used to. Personally I think it is more the choice of brake pads rather than the new brake lines, but I could be wrong.

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Yeah, a pic would be the thing. Which master cylinder are you referring to as "the secondary master cylinder"? The one near the rear of the gas tank under the seat?

As far as not being able to lock up the rear. I couldn't either on my '99, well maybe if I would have really stood on the rear brake lever. Now that I have steel brake lines and EBC HH brake pads I can actually feel the rear brake doing something. I still don't know if I could lock it up, but it certainly contributes more than it used to. Personally I think it is more the choice of brake pads rather than the new brake lines, but I could be wrong.

At least initially the EBC pads seem to have significant greater stopping power/response than the OEM front pads. I just replaced mine and looking at the old OEM pads, I probably had another 10,000 miles left on them. However I'm glad I replaced them, because the difference is remarkable.

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That's what I thought when I read it.

It's weird!

Either Ronimal's theory is correct, or the cylinder was leaking and the PO didn't want to replace it and tried to seal it up?

Take it off and see what happens...?

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Firstly the link brake system most of the time shouldn't lock rear wheel but if you change down & stand on back brake it will, it is also reason the rear pads are a different part number to the front as the rear doesn't use sintered pads to also help stop locking rear brake. The rear brake lever operates 2 pistons rear calliper & one piston LHS front calliper on the vtec. The RHS front calliper mounted master cylinder in picture only operates one piston rear calliper & only operates when front brakes used.

What you have as repair or whatever on your calliper mounted master cylinder isn't cause of rear brake not locking but it looks very dodgy & someone might have put that there because the master failed or leaked but that is all guessing, I would be having a mechanic look at it asap if your not skilled in such things because you don't want that falling apart.

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I wonder if somebody did this so the secondary master cylinder wouldn't apply unwanted pressure to the rear brakes.Kind of de-linking the rear brakes.

After seeing the photo I think ronimal is right on the money.... sort of a "poor-man's de-link", so to speak.

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Put it up on the center stand. When you take off the clamp push the caliper forward and see if anything is leaking.

If that looks ok, spin the rear wheel and push the caliper and make sure it stops the rear from turning.

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Yeah some kind of rig job there(looks like rubber boot missing too), I dont know about 02 through 05, but 06 plus does have sintered metal brake pads on the rear OEM.

According to kaldek, the 06 plus also have different and stronger calipers, he replaced an 02 caliper with an 06 caliper.

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The thing I don't understand, if this is an attempt to de-link, is that this would only de-link the front from affecting the rear. It would not de-link the rear from affecting the front.

I would think most people that cared about de-linking the brakes would be more interested in preventing the rear from affecting the front. No?

FYI my brakes are linked, and I love it that way. Just curious what the intention of the modifier was.

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i just went out to the garage and removed that thing, it was a piece of PVC with a hose clamp only took one minute to unscrew the darn thing, fist i checked like you said, had someone turn the rear wheel by hand and i pushed the left side caliper towards the fork leg but i could not get it to move then i removed the clamp and the piece of plastic and then i could move it and stop the rear wheel from turning. i was afraid to find a leak or something but it turned to be a stupid way to "unlink" the brakes. the rubber boot is in great shape, i will ride the bike tomorrow to test how the brakes feel.

Should i be aware of something about how the brakes will behave now?

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Unlikely to notice anything, in my opinion.

Like was mentioned, the only thing it did was prevent one of the three rear pistions from being applied with full braking. If you only use the front lever, then it's only a single rear piston on the rear being added into the mix.

Can't for the life of me think of a single reason to have modified the brakes in that manner in the first place. But I guess the previous owner was satisfied with it... :rolleyes:

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I tested the bike, the front brake feels more responsive but now the rear brake pedal goes to the bottom, i posted before that it had very low stopping power, now has almost nothing, it feels funny because when I apply the front brakes the rear pedal feels harder to push like it builds up pressure, definitely something it's not right. What should I do, where do I start

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Bleed all the lines. Preferably with a compressor powered vacuum bleeder. Or a pump style vacuum bleeder.

Do a search in the How To section for brake bleeding. It's a bit of a procedure.

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