Member Contributer BartmanEH Posted October 6, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2012 I didn't measure them with a caliper but they do look about the same height. I read in another thread that you need to change the fork height to account for the tapered bearings (can't find the thread - searching with this forum software is really impossible - you get thousands of hits). I found my bike turns in a little too easily for my liking. The fork height was 46mm (5mm more than the FSM). Should I reduce this a bit towards the FSM 41mm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 I've not heard anyone complain about a VFR steering Too quickly, as they have quite conservative steering geometry. So yea, you could reset your forks to the standard measurement no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BartmanEH Posted October 6, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2012 Let me correct my statement a bit - I found my bike wanted to continue falling into a turn once in a turn. So I was incorrect in calling this too much turn in. Once in a turn, I had to hold the steering to counteract the turn. Dang, I wish I could find that thread that talked about accounting for tapered bearing height difference by adjusting fork height after installing tapered bearings. Grrrr. EDIT: found the thread here. Need you guys to review it and comment on fork height with tapered vs. stock bearings, please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 I don't have a bearing set from All-Balls and don't know what manufacturer they get their bearings from but if they stack taller than I guess there will be a gap between the dust seals and the steering neck, not good. Also if they stack taller it would mean that you raise the fork legs (and quicken steering) when you maintain the same height between the top of the fork and the triple. I bought a tapered roller bearing kit from my Honda dealer and they were exactly the same size as the OEM ball bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BartmanEH Posted October 6, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2012 [...]if they stack taller than I guess there will be a gap between the dust seals and the steering neck, not good.[...] See? That's why VFRD is the best place on earth - 'cause there's peeps like you what are way smarter than me! I took a look at the lower seal and took a picture: It looks pretty flush. I guess that's the best evidence that the All Balls bearings must be pretty close in height to the original stock ball bearings. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2014 Thought it best to add a little to this thread regarding the torque setting of the head stem bearings. The factory manual specified the you torque the adjusting nut, after oiling the thread, to an "initial" preload of 18 lbf-ft then move the assembly stop to stop 5 times to seat the bearings. Then back off the adjusting nut. Tighten it again to the same torque and check for free movement. Install the lock washer and lock nut and bend tabs to lock in place. Install the rest of the front end equipment and top triple clamp. Tighten nut to 76 lbf-ft Jack the front wheel off the ground and fit a spring balance to the fork tube. With the forks centered, pull the spring balance and read the load. It should be between 2.2 and 3.3 lbf If not, re-adjust the stem nuts and try again. The 18 lbf-ft setting that lots of people are saying is the final setting is completely wrong from what my Honda manual outlines (pages 13-38 to 13-40). Be careful setting the load and read the manual. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2014 Hey Phil tapered or roller bearing ? Some here use tapered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2014 With the final setting being the "pull" required to move the fork it will be the same for both tapered roller and angular contact ball. This setting has nothing to do with the style of bearing, it is the preload on the steering head itself. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2014 To add further to the above, I've just screen shotted the pages of the manual just so as everyone understands clearly. Setting the preload it extremely important to good handling. See below, or download the full manual from elsewhere on this site. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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