Mazaev Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 So I've been doing some maintenance lately and ordered some new iridium plugs. Went to swap them yesterday and the front and rear right ones came out just fine, but the left plug (#1, I think) under the tank just wouldn't budge. Decided against pushing it too hard, and left it in there. Sooo... is there any method that's recommended for this sort of thing? I tried putting a bit of oil in there and waiting for a while, but it didn't help. Had someone suggest taking a torch to it to heat it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted May 17, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 17, 2012 PB Blaster... squirt it in and come back the next day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted May 19, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 19, 2012 Mazaev, Let us know if the penetrating lube works. PB Blaster will be much better than just oil. Apply torque w/ a T handle, if you can, so that there is no bending on the plug. It's hard to tell what problems lurk in an old bike. Hopefully it is just a bit over tightened and not cross threaded or galled... Anything over 30 ft.lbs. or so is a risk for a spark plug. I would not use a torch but running the bike to warm it up could be a fall-back. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazaev Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Tried the BP Blaster and no dice. Tried with a warm engine, as well as a couple hours after spraying it in. I used a 1/4" ratchet and a large adjustable wrench on the provided plug tool. Also tried tapping on the ratchet with the wrench. It's deadlocked and I'm afraid of pushing it too hard as I don't have a torque wrench. I did find it strange that it poured right out of the bottom of the engine as soon as it's sprayed in as I was expecting it to pool up inside. Is this right? Otherwise, I also had someone else suggest freon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallican525 Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 On my 6th gen there is a drain hole at the bottom of the spark plug hole to allow fluids to flow out instead of building up and finding their way into the cylinder. I imagine your's is designed much the same way, drain hole directly under the exhaust ports yes? Freezing the plug may do the trick, but getting to just the plug to freeze it without also getting the head will be tricky. Fear not, if you strip the plug hole by some turn of misfortune, the Time Sert kit works GREAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve27bha Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 There is a drain in the bottom of the plug recess, which on mine exits at the side of the head. Get a vacuum in there to suck up any crud before removing the plug. A 1/4" ratchet is too light - standard socketry for a bike is 3/8". As noted above use a proper set of tools - an adjustable will not give the control you need to keep the socket straight on the plug. If you get it sideways and crack off the top of the plug you have major problems. This is now not a job to save money on tools - get proper stuff. You do not use a torque wrench to remove stuff, just tighten. 6-point wall-drive sockets are best for applying a significant amount of welly, and proper spark plug sockets with an internal retaining rubber ring even better. The #1 plug at the back left should be no problem for access, the front ones are a bit different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 You don't have a torque wrench? Why would you need one to take a bolt OUT? You aren't gonna hurt anything taking it out. If any damage would be done, it already happened when someone over torqued it during instalation. Get yourself a breaker bar if need be and lay the muscle to that thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 On my 6th gen there is a drain hole at the bottom of the spark plug hole to allow fluids to flow out instead of building up and finding their way into the cylinder. I imagine your's is designed much the same way, drain hole directly under the exhaust ports yes? Freezing the plug may do the trick, but getting to just the plug to freeze it without also getting the head will be tricky. Fear not, if you strip the plug hole by some turn of misfortune, the Time Sert kit works GREAT. Ive been using "crc freeze off" for a while with really good results, got it from advanced auto, just connect the spray tube and have at it. if that dont work, then sir you are, F%&ked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazaev Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 I just mentioned the torque wrench because someone said not to push past a certain limit, but yeah, my inner n00b is showing :-) Since I DO want to get this right, is there any advantage to getting a different spark plug socket over using the one with a toolkit with a 10mm over it? I can just use an adapter and use the 1/2" socket, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 I'm not familiar with the plug socket in the factory tool kit, but if its like others I've seen its just a stamped steel piece? I would be inclined to use a 3/8 ratchet with extension and a real 5/8" spark plug socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted May 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2012 I know a lot of guys might cringe at this but you're less likely to break a fastener if you use a small impact gun rather than just doing it by hand. Preferably a gun that can be set for a low torque - like under 40 lb. ft. There is no bending and the hammering effect will help to crack it loose. I don't recall how accessible this plug is in the back but it might be easy w/ a few extensions. My 2 cents, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 24, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2012 I know a lot of guys might cringe at this but you're less likely to break a fastener if you use a small impact gun rather than just doing it by hand. Preferably a gun that can be set for a low torque - like under 40 lb. ft. There is no bending and the hammering effect will help to crack it loose. I don't recall how accessible this plug is in the back but it might be easy w/ a few extensions. My 2 cents, Mark +1 3/8 air impact should do it. The hammer affect works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallican525 Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Well, there's the problem. Ditch the tool kit POS "plug socket" and get a real one in 3/8 drive, should be able to walk that lil baby right outta there, they ain't very big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted May 25, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 25, 2012 I'd try the air ratchet just to break it loose a little, then try your PB blaster again and let it soak overnight. This is the method we use at work to remove the plugs that like to break the electrode off in the head on the Ford 5.4's. Make sure you plug the drain hole so the penetrant will soak into the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazaev Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 I already had a 1/2" ratchet, so picked up a socket and extension for that. Will give it a shot this week. At this point, I'm hesitant to dig into it as the bike is running just fine, and it won't be if it breaks :-( Anyone know where I could use an air ratchet (read: impact gun!) as described around NYC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I would try a standard ratchet and socket first if you don't have access to an impact, and BTW, if you're asking for one, ask for an 'impact gun', an air ratchet is something completely different and will prove totally useless. You aren't gonna break off a spark plug, I've been pulling plugs all my life, I've probably changed well over a thousand spark plugs, and I've never broke the threads off in the head.Trust me, just lay some muscle on that thing and in will come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazaev Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Right tool for the job strikes again. Guess the PB worked too as I sprayed some more in and tried it again, this time with the 1/2" ratchet (5/8" socket with extension; not something I'd wanna use regularly due to space constraints though) and it came right out. Thanks for all the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 29, 2012 YEAH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted May 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 29, 2012 Sweet action! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kostritzer Posted May 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 29, 2012 I would try a standard ratchet and socket first if you don't have access to an impact, and BTW, if you're asking for one, ask for an 'impact gun', an air ratchet is something completely different and will prove totally useless. Yeah impact, irrelevant now but I have a bad habit of calling an impact an air rachet, even after working on cars professionally for almost 10 years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACIFICMAN Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 The value of the proper tool cannot be overstated, this thread proves it. You Never waste money on good tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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