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Vtec Valve adjustment Issues


jeff_lorne

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Hey all

I am in the process of doing my valve adjustment and have came accross a an issue with the Vtec valves. The specs I'm going by are Intake = 0.20mm +/- 0.03 and

Exhaust = 0.35 mm +/- 0.03 and Vtec Intake = 0.20mm +/- 0.08 and Vtec Exhaust = 0.35 mm +/- 0.08 All the non Vtec valves are within spec but closer to the tight side and all the same. The problem Im having is that the Vtec valves are all too tight except for one intake valve. the reange for the Vtec exhaust valves are 0.27mm to 0.43mm and all of mine are 0.203mm. The Vtec intake range is 0.12mm to 0.28mm and mine are at 0.076mm, 0.102mm, 0.102mm and 0.152mm. Am I doing something wrong? I'm an industrial millwright so I know my way around tools. Ive gone through the honda service manual many times and checked out the how to guides on here. Any help or sugestions would be great.

thanks Jeff

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My bike has 25,000 miles on it and every post I have read says that the are never out of spec, let alone 7 out of 8 Vtec valves. and none of the non Vtec valves.

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That is unusual m8. I wouldn't be being honest if I didn't suggest that it could be your measuring that is the issue. Have you re-checked them just in case?

No intention of being rude there, just very unusual for a 25k VFR with 7 of 8 shims out of spec.

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All of the non vtec valves measured out ok so i don't think I measured wrong but i will retry just incase. is there any way I could have reasembled it wrong to make a small difference?

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I did my 03 at about 35k. Half of the vtec valves were out of spec. Dont overthink it--if you trust your measuring and mechanical skills do the math and order the shims.

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ANyone know where the cheapest place to buy the bucket lifters is? I have to buy 7 of them and they seem to be around $35.00. How far out of spec were they?

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I had no isues with the tear down or the reasembly at all. It is rather easy after you remove everything thats in the way the pill sized pin stoppers just slide in and hold the pin engaged.

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I had no isues with the tear down or the reasembly at all. It is rather easy after you remove everything thats in the way the pill sized pin stoppers just slide in and hold the pin engaged.

If you know what some of the sizes that you may need I would suggest you post up in the classifieds "WTB" Vtec shims. I seen others offer up their old shims to members for nothing.

BR

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I agree that 7 of 8 OOS is unusual.

Also not trying to dis your wrenching skills, but two possibilities to check and eliminate:

I wouldn't question the measurements, but when did you check the non-vtec valves?

If you did the non-vtec valve checks before pulling the cams and inserting the stopper pins to check the vtec valves, have you rechecked the non-vtec ones? If you haven't, check them (the non-vtec valves) again. If they are the same - order new buckets, if they've changed, you re-installed the cams incorrectly.

The other little gotcha that may have an effect, did you remember to remove the cam chain adjuster clip to put tension back on the cam chain before doing the checks?

Greg

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I don't know anything about your local dealer, but, the Honda shop in Ventura, CA will swap shims as needed. They have a large collection of used shims to choose from, no charge.

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hey thanks for the replys. I checked all the valve lifters at the same time after the vtec slider pins were installed and i did release the cam chain tensioner before the measurements and rotated the camshafts around at least once by the crank bolt. I've ordered the parts ($240.00 worth of parts) and should be in by tomorrow so I 'll let you know if it is right after i install them.

Jeff

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How do you know if you are due for valve adjustments if you don't follow the recommended service schedules for valve adjustments? My '08 VFR is reading 22K+ miles and I've been sensing some more-than-usual vibration when I rev up over 5000 rpm. Could this be an indicator?

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I know I had a 5th gen and perhaps it does not make a difference but I found several tight valves too at 120k! My local shop did not have the shims and I did not have the time to wait so I just wet sanded them down to the correct thickness worked great!

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How do you know if you are due for valve adjustments if you don't follow the recommended service schedules for valve adjustments? My '08 VFR is reading 22K+ miles and I've been sensing some more-than-usual vibration when I rev up over 5000 rpm. Could this be an indicator?

No, not really, and with buckets, they don't really get loud like a car either, thats why we have these service intervals, of course I pay no attention to them, but if your machine sees higher than average stress regularly.. That can beat the valves into the seats a little harder and tighten them up on you a little. Thats why you should check them. Its also why valve spring specs are important when upgrading.

Edit: for above post, 120k will definitely tighten them up on you some too if they haven't ever been checked. Seems they give some fairly generous clearancing on the valves though, thats why people go that long and don't ever have a problem. In some engines, a tight valve can definitely pose a problem.

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How do you know if you are due for valve adjustments if you don't follow the recommended service schedules for valve adjustments? My '08 VFR is reading 22K+ miles and I've been sensing some more-than-usual vibration when I rev up over 5000 rpm. Could this be an indicator?

???? I understand the intent of the question, but the actual phrasing left me thinking, "You've got to be kidding!"

The vibration you're getting could be from a host of possibilities. Out of spec valve clearance won't directly cause increased vibration, but it can cause the FI equivalent of the carbs to be out of sync (I've heard different phrases for this, most common being the throttle bodies being out of balance, but I don't know exactly how the 6th gen service manual defines it). If the valve clearances are off, the amount of air/fuel mixture drawn through each cylinder can start to vary and that imbalance can cause a noticeable unevenness/vibration at times. And this may be the source of your trouble.

Just balancing the throttle bodies may clear the symptom, but if it was being caused by OOS clearances, you won't have done anything to correct the root cause of the problem.

Or, the cam chain tensions may be wearing and that might give the symptoms you're feeling as well. Tough to tell from a text description. (CCT failures are a know weakness for your bike, 22k is a little early, but lots of failures of them reported around 30k, so it's within range of being a problem)

There are differing opinions about whether or not it's worth it to check the valve clearances at the recommended intervals.

I'm in the, "Check when recommended camp". To each there own, but had you checked yours when specified, you wouldn't wondering as much right now whether that was a factor in your current problem (and possibly you wouldn't be having the problem, but there's no way of knowing that at the moment).

Greg

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