Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 I got crazy and bought the Hobby King connectors from Hong Kong, Kaldek's suggestion. They look pretty nice. - The one thing that got me that I'm not too hot on is there isnt a whole lot of surface to solder with. The end of these connector is maybe 3.5mm deep and the diameter of inside is around 5mm. This makes it kinda tough and looks like its gonna take some finesse. Not like a crimper connection where you have alot of room to cram a wire in the jaws and solder. Now I admit, I'm not the most talented with a soldering iron, so I thought I would ask for preparation and or procedure help to approach this thing before I screw it up. What say you, talented soldering gurus? pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Got get some good rosin core solder and some scrap wire and start practicing getting good penetrated solder joints. Once you figure out how much to heat the wire to the right temp and get a good bond you'll be fine to do this job. I'm sure a little bit of google action and or youtube would turn up some good instructional's. On these I like to get a good little bead of solder down the length of the stripped copper and slip it into the barrel, after that I crimp it real quick with good set of crimpers, and crank down hard cause the sol;der will have already got somewhat hard. Never had any problems doing it this way. The crimp is not a 100% needed, but would be a good idea considering your skill level with the soldering, it will ensure you get a solid low resistance connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 I am not sure I follow how they connect...most times you have a way to crimp and solder both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 8, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 I am not sure I follow how they connect...most times you have a way to crimp and solder both. The ends are just a small cylinder hole to push/attach wire and solder into. There appears to be no way to crimp anything. Not sure I like it . more pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 I don't see how your going to be able to solder the wire to those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookingHard Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Hatter, This may be what you are looking for.................. LookingHard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 8, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 ^^^^ Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 With rosin core solder, tin the wire with as little heat as possible. With the cup in some small holding something, get it just hot enough to melt the solder and quickly fill enough so that once you add the wire the cup won't over flow, the amount depends on the wire size compared to the cup. Don't "boil" the solder like the video says, you'll cook off rosin. Let the cup set for second and grab the tinned wire in one hand get the cup hot enough to melt the solder in it and insert the wire. Leave the iron on for a couple more second than remove the iron and hold the wire for a couple more seconds until the solder returns to a solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 I don't see how your going to be able to solder the wire to those. Dude, please. These things carry 150 amps of current in heavily vibrating remote controlled aeroplanes all the time. And I'm not talking some dinky-toy here, I'm talking model jets that have electric ducted fans spinning at 45,000rpm and putting out over three kilowatts of power. They vibrate. A lot. Do a decent solder job on one of these babies and you're good to go. As Coderighter said, don't keep the heat on longer than necessary - this is called your "dwell" time. Don't dwell on it, y'dig? You can tell when it's hot enough because it will turn into a liquid and be all shiny. Strip the wire a little. If you want a nice neat job, put some heat shrink tube on the wire ready for when soldering is done. "Tin" the wire by heating it up until solder flows both around and into it. Heat the cup in the connector until solder will melt into it. Feel free to fill it. Mount the cup in a holder. A small hole drilled into a piece of wood to sit the connector in is perfect for this. Heat the solder in the cup up until it turns to a liquid, then insert the wire. Hold the soldering iron there for a second or so to make sure that the solder on the wire also melts and flows with the solder in the cup. Remove the soldering iron and hold the wire steady for about two seconds until the solder solidifies. Job done! Yeah, it's not a crimp connection, blah blah. Like I said though, the RC hobby (huge amps common) doesn't use crimp connectors and as long as your solder job is good you'll have a reliable connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 That's it... the trick is for the object to be soldered to be hot enough to DRAW the solder in... otherwise you're just "painting" solder around the outside... you don't heat the solder to drip it onto the wire... yo heat the wire and press the solder to it so it sucks the solder in... Previous poster described your case perfectly.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 I'm no soldering expert, but I was taught by my dad, a ham since the days of Marconi (I think!), and one thing I've found that can really help is to buy a little tin of rosin and slather that stuff everywhere you want the solder to flow (do this before heating the metal or the solder). Any electronics store (not sure if Radio Shack still qualifies on that score) will have it. Sometimes the rosin in the solder isn't enough to do the job, so extra rosin is essential. Other times, it just makes it easier. HTH. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 We often do the following in Spain to hard wire them and keep them from vibrating apart... line the wires up parallel with ends facing same direction (not pointing one end at the other)... twist them up, solder them properly (heat the wires and letting the solder seep in... shove them into the connectors you can see (soldered as they are they go in and comed out the same side... clamp the screws down (don't break the solder)... Bob's your uncle... it's very cheap and very effective... no more arcing fast-ons... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 I'm no soldering expert, but I was taught by my dad, a ham since the days of Marconi (I think!), and one thing I've found that can really help is to buy a little tin of rosin and slather that stuff everywhere you want the solder to flow (do this before heating the metal or the solder). Any electronics store (not sure if Radio Shack still qualifies on that score) will have it. Sometimes the rosin in the solder isn't enough to do the job, so extra rosin is essential. Other times, it just makes it easier. HTH. I use a flux pen! Our local Radio Shack style business (Jaycar) sells them. It's like a felt-tip pen but the juice inside is flux, not ink. Just "paint" a little onto the wire before I start soldering, and voila! It makes a huge difference when tinning wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 All good soldering advice. I wasn't aware those connectors had a cup...they looked like they passed through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ryanme17 Posted May 8, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2011 Practice, practice, practice! One thing I've found is that sometimes when the wire is more than hot enough but the solder isn't flowing you need to "start" the solder by briefly touching it to the tip, and then it will melt along the wire. You do not, however, want to press the solder against the tip and try to melt it onto a too-cool wire that way, it will not work under any circumstances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 9, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks to all... ------ I have a few extra to practice with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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