Inconsistent headlight output

[BlindIo]

I was riding home last night when all of a sudden my headlights got much brighter for a few moments then returned to normal. At first I thought I just hit a new bit of concrete that was more reflective, but it happened again farther down the road. I was cruising at constant RPM at the time.

A few weeks ago my bike wouldn't start so I replaced my battery, everything seemed fine after that.

Is this something to worry about?

[HispanicSlammer]

yes check your charging system, you may have an issue with the regulator rectifier or the stator many many many threads on this subject use the search box for RR or stator or charging system

[chris2992]

Sounds like a potential stator or regulator issue beginning to crop its heat. Or a bad ground that is restricting current to the lights but occasionally making a good connection. Best start by taking voltage readings at the battery (static, idle and 5krpm). The trouble with intermetiant problems is that they are intermentiant and hard to find. Post up results and we'll try to help you out.

[samaki]

The same thing happened to my 3rd gen some years ago. Replace the regulator/rectifier and the problem will be fixed. While you are working on the bike, check the connector block for the wires from your stator. This is located on the right side of the bike just forward and above the oil fill hole. It is a white connector with three yellow wires passing through it that is secured to the bike with a gold colored metal bracket. If this connector is melted or discolored from heat, you need to either disassemble it and clean/tighten all the connectors or remove it all together and reconnect the wires independantly using new tight connectors. Each wire should have a very tight , clean and fully insulated connection at this point.

You should consider either installing a heat sink under the new R/R or installing a unit from a different bike like the R1 or FJR1300. I personally would recommend the OEM R/R with a heat sink under it. Mine has done well on my 4th gen for 54K miles. Look at the link below.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/60534-it-finally-happened/

[BlindIo]

I just checked the voltage at the battery terminals

Static: 13.0

Idle: 14.5 - 14.6

5K RPM: 14.6

EDIT: I just called to price a R/R - over $200 and I can't afford to replace it. I guess she's getting parked until I have the money.

Thanks for the help, guys.

[KennVFRidr]

Is this something to worry about?

Also be certain to check the connector at the starter relay, under the rubber boot. I've gone through this numerous times on my "92" and "93". It may be intermittent Reg/Rect failure, but I'll bet the connector at the relay is fried.

Kenn Engstrom

[chris2992]

Don't use the OEM RR, either contact tightwad or source a used 04+ R1 RR as they use mosfet transistors and are much more stable and reliable. Plus when I did mine, I picked up my RR for $19.

[Jmmymc750]

Hey, it sounds like you might need a rectifier. Josh, member name "Tightwad" has a website called "wiremybike.com" and he sells a harness patch kit for the yamaha r/r for like 80 bucks.

ebay R1 r/r

if you get that r1 rectifier regulator, the easy way is to get the kit from Josh . The cheapest way, is to get the r/r, some female spade clips from NAPA or other auto parts, some wire and shrink wrap, then solder together your clips/wires, plug it in, mount it, solder in your connections to your (probably) charred wiring harness, and shrink wrap it. Or "easy button" Josh. All in all, still cheaper than a new OEM, which probably aren't very good.

I have the "updated" OEM from my 98 that you can have for the price of shipping. I make no gaurantee, other than it came off a working 98VFR. I upgraded to the Rick's MOSFET when I put on the VFRness from Josh. You are welcome to the old unit, but the connector is cut off, you will have to splice, for which I recommend strip/solder/shrinkwrap, not butt connectors.

Hit me up if you want the old one.

Cheers!

[BlindIo]

Thanks for all the help. I checked the connections and, other than the outside being dirty, they look brand new - no charring at all.

I will do as you suggest and get the R1 R/R and the adapter harness.

Is this the right part for what I'm doing: http://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=270&osCsid=08cdaf244ed6642020d105b083c724a9

Or do I need this one? : http://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=271&osCsid=08cdaf244ed6642020d105b083c724a9

I don't really have any accessories on the bike, just a tender plug. If that first one will work I will go with that since it's almost half the price and money is tight this month.

Does the R1 R/R fit on the same mounting holes as the OEM unit?

[DDO-VFR]

If you replaced your battery and it doesn't do it anymore, you probably fixed your problem. If the battery is flakey, as in it doesn't present a consistent charge load, it is possible (and logical) that you might see surging on the system voltage. I have had two batteries (in my cars through the years) that had become intermittent, so it is not a stretch that the battery was the root of the problem. your running voltage of 14.6 seems reasonable to me, maybe the 13.0V is a bit low.

Brian

[BlindIo]

If you replaced your battery and it doesn't do it anymore, you probably fixed your problem. If the battery is flakey, as in it doesn't present a consistent charge load, it is possible (and logical) that you might see surging on the system voltage. I have had two batteries (in my cars through the years) that had become intermittent, so it is not a stretch that the battery was the root of the problem. your running voltage of 14.6 seems reasonable to me, maybe the 13.0V is a bit low.

Brian

This "surge" in headlight output is with the new battery. Last week I went out to start her up and nothing happened, even the clock died when I turned on the key. I replaced the battery and she started and ran fine. Now I'm concerned that the r/r might have toasted the first battery (although I don't know how old that one was).

[Jmmymc750]

Hey, I was wrong! Josh only offers the r1 vfrness for the 90-97 models! My bad! But you should PM him, or email him, he might have the solution. Otherwise, you can wire it yourself...

[BlindIo]

Hey, I was wrong! Josh only offers the r1 vfrness for the 90-97 models! My bad! But you should PM him, or email him, he might have the solution. Otherwise, you can wire it yourself...

Is the OEM r/r for the 2000 really as bad as the previous models? This one looks like it's stock, but I have no idea if it's been replaced before. I've never done any kind of in-depth work like this before and I don't want to screw up my bike and possible cause more problems. I'd be more comfortable with a kit conversion or just replacing the r/r with another OEM unit.

[chris2992]

The oem units are junk, period. Don't let the job intimidate you, it is simple. Use tightwads for a plug and play, use the R1RR for budget mindedness. The one thing about the R1 RR is you have to cut the length down on the cooling fins by about a half of an inch to fit behind the cowl, and no the holes don't line up but that is as easy as popping an additional hole in the original RR mounting plate. Somewhere on the site is my thread for the R1RR swap, I'll see if I can find it.

[BlindIo]

I don't suppose anyone makes a high-performance aftermarket part that is plug-and-play?

EDIT: Scratch that, what about this R/R from WireMyBike.com? http://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=327&osCsid=08cdaf244ed6642020d105b083c724a9

Would this be a fix for my unit without having to cut up a Yamaha part and bodge together a harness?

[chris2992]

R1 RR How To Link

Hopefully that helps.

[HispanicSlammer]

I just checked the voltage at the battery terminals

Static: 13.0

Idle: 14.5 - 14.6

5K RPM: 14.6

EDIT: I just called to price a R/R - over $200 and I can't afford to replace it. I guess she's getting parked until I have the money.

Thanks for the help, guys.

Those voltages check out fine, thats good charging voltage, must be somthing else.

[samaki]

Those voltage figures are good but the brightening of your headlight is an intermittent thing. Mine did the same thing, going very bright for a few seconds then dimming back to normal brightness. I checked all my voltages and evrything was good, but the problem persisted. A new R/R fixed it.

[gll429]

find your main green wire in the harness.. add eyelets and ground it to the FRAME .. front middle and back of bike.. CLEAN all your contact areas and on the wires and such.. and pray this solves the problem.

also.. if this was my bike.. the green wires from the R/R.. ground them straight to the frame.

and use silver heat transfer compound from the computer store.. put a BIG glob on the back off the R/R :fing02:

.. add a computer fan while your at it..only cost 10 bucks.

[Tightwad]

Couple things...I answered via PM but I will answer here as well so others can find it in their searches...

#1. The Yamaha R1 R/R, Model FH012AA is the part to get...from 2007 and on. earlier parts are also good if they have the same plug, but as mentioned they have to be trimmed...no big deal really, just work.

#2. I can make a VFRness using any connectors available. I have done it for the 90-97 model which is why it is on my site. For the budget minded individual, this is not the best answer...those connectors are expensive ($20 + shipping from Eastern Beaver...only source I have found)

#3. The new Ricks R/R (10-125H and 10-126H) are also MOSFET...this is all I sell for 1998 and newer bikes.

#4. If you insist on OEM, call Mason City Honda and ask for Keith...he can hook you up for under $200 shipped.

Looking at your results, I think your problem (if you have one) is elsewhere.