Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 Last Saturday I got stuck when my bike wouldn't start because the battery was dead. I got it jumped, made it home and put in a brand new battery. Fast forward to today, I'm 20 miles into my commute to work and I look down and my dash is completely out. I'm able to keep it running for a while by revving it. But then it finally died. Now it's sitting on the side of the road. So my question is, does this sound consistent with an R/R, Stator or both? I'll only be able to replace the RR on the side of the road. If it's the stator, that's a little more involved and I'll have to get it towed to my house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 You are going to have to test it, but you can do a bunch of tests without it running using a multimeter. I would guess r/r. Take a look at your connectors and see if they are toasted. going into the r/r and also stator to r/r harness, and maybe the starter relay connector. If any of those 3 are done I believe you would run off battery juice till it is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 15, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 Yeah I know the proper thing to do would be to test everything and that it could be one or both. Unfortunately, I'm unable to get that involved until I somehow get it home. I'm more or less hoping for an educated guess. I think I can get a new R/R and would be able to put that in. I guess I'll just go ahead and do that and hope for the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 I'd just call for a tow and then take my time checking it at home. Could just be melted wiring at your starter relay/mainfuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 Putting a random part back into a broken system may or may not fix the issue -but even if you have a bad R/R you might just fry the new one if you have problems elsewhere. Most likely you have bad connections at the 3P AC yellow/yellow/yellow connector and the DC connector that will be slightly improved by replacing 1/2 of them with the new R/R. If you have a problem with a bad stator you might fry a new R/R. If you have problems with your ground you might fry a new R/R. I'd take a look at the connections first. It doesn't take much work to pull off the left fairig lower and the rear tail section (you gotta do this anyhow to replace the R/R). Check out the connections and clean them really well and put in a little bit of anti-ox grease. Pull off the ground connection at the right side of the frame and sand the O-connector and the aluminum of the frame where it touches and reassemble with anti-ox grease. Clean off the battery connections and reassemble with anti-ox grease and then charge the battery and try to get home. Or just get a lift home. There is still a danger that you will ruin another good battery by overcooking or deep cycling it too many times or damage the charging system more. All the components are inter-connected and one bad part can damage others. A new battery still might be cheaper than getting a tow though. Once home Follow The Yellow Brick Road with this troubleshooting guide and find out what the issue is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 I'd take a look at the connections first. It doesn't take much work to pull off the left fairig lower and the rear tail section (you gotta do this anyhow to replace the R/R). He's got a 6th Gen. R/R is up front on the frame and connectors are on the right lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 I'd take a look at the connections first. It doesn't take much work to pull off the left fairig lower and the rear tail section (you gotta do this anyhow to replace the R/R). He's got a 6th Gen. R/R is up front on the frame and connectors are on the right lower. Oh, well...He's still got to pull off at least the same amount of bodywork to check the connections as he has to remove the R/R since they need to be accessed in either case. I still think that throwing a fairly expensive part at a problem without doing any real troubleshooting is a mistake. If he has a bad stator it is possible to damage a new R/R (or an old one) by continuing to drive it. Best would be to just pull the plugs and run total discharge if it isn't too far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 It sounds like a R/R especially since it was a new battery, Overcharging, they don't last too long.... Just my .02 I lost mine on my 4th gen leaving Laguna Seca in 07, changed the Battery & made it to Oregon before it killed that battery. At least the Batt didn't explode :idea3: Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 15, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 Thanks for the replies. I finally got the bike home. I'll tear into it and see if I have any burnt connectors etc. I'll probably end up putting in a stator and a R/R. I've got almost 30,000 on it so I'm sure they're both due to be replaced. I'm just happy it happened now and not when I was down at TMAC. That would have sucked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer NVR2L8 Posted June 15, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2010 Thanks for the replies. I finally got the bike home. I'll tear into it and see if I have any burnt connectors etc. I'll probably end up putting in a stator and a R/R. I've got almost 30,000 on it so I'm sure they're both due to be replaced. I'm just happy it happened now and not when I was down at TMAC. That would have sucked. I had about 30K on my '05 when the stator died on a ride through Sequoia... The Electrosport guide is great though, and let us know what you find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted June 16, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2010 Hmmm an '06 with electrical gremlins eh? Please keep us posted, with pictures of any damage if possible please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2010 OK, someone figure this one out. I go out to the garage to start tearing the bike down. Before I do, I turn the key on (dash lights come on, fuel pump primes), hit the start button and she comes to life. I let it idle to see what happens. After almost 5 minutes it dies and it's once again dead. (no dash lights etc.) If I turn it on again, I can hear the fuel pump but get no power anywhere else and it will not turnover. My guess, RR failure. As soon as it gets hot it dies. Anyone disagree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted June 16, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2010 If you have enough battery to turn over the engine and start it it should run for more than 5 minutes even if the R/R is totally unplugged. I think you have another issue that is disconnecting the battery. Either a bad ground or a bad connection at the battery -or a loose wire somewhere in the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2010 If you have enough battery to turn over the engine and start it it should run for more than 5 minutes even if the R/R is totally unplugged. I think you have another issue that is disconnecting the battery. Either a bad ground or a bad connection at the battery -or a loose wire somewhere in the harness. That would be true if I had a completely charged battery. Which I did yesterday on my way to work. I think there was a little juice left allowing me to start it. The battery is dead now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer NVR2L8 Posted June 16, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2010 If you have enough battery to turn over the engine and start it it should run for more than 5 minutes even if the R/R is totally unplugged. I think you have another issue that is disconnecting the battery. Either a bad ground or a bad connection at the battery -or a loose wire somewhere in the harness. That would be true if I had a completely charged battery. Which I did yesterday on my way to work. I think there was a little juice left allowing me to start it. The battery is dead now. Sometimes a dead battery can recharge itself to start an engine and power the electrical system for a very short time. My guess is that your stator is toast, or the stator wiring is open due to a surge. When you troubleshoot using the Electrosport guide you'll be checking the stator at the right side stator connector, so if the stator checks okay then also for any heat related damage. If you have any it will be obvious at this right side stator connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Since you can get it running if you charge the battery, I would run some tests on the stator in that first 5 minutes while it's running to make sure it's good. If the stator checks out and your battery is new, replace the R/R with a Rick's unit (My electrosport unit was bad out of the box and caused me all kinds of headaches). I got mine from Tightwad and he was very helpful.. I would also check with him to see if he recommends the VFRness kit for your bike. I put the VFRness kit on mine when I did the R/R and other than my 3 yellow wires getting a little hot to the touch, everything has been working perfect. My bike still has the original stator so I've considered replacing it as well just to have piece of mind but I don't like to fix things that aren't broken. Good luck. the charging system is definately the weak point of these bikes but it's nothing that can't be fixed. :goofy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nexzzt Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 OK, someone figure this one out. I go out to the garage to start tearing the bike down. Before I do, I turn the key on (dash lights come on, fuel pump primes), hit the start button and she comes to life. I let it idle to see what happens. After almost 5 minutes it dies and it's once again dead. (no dash lights etc.) If I turn it on again, I can hear the fuel pump but get no power anywhere else and it will not turnover. My guess, RR failure. As soon as it gets hot it dies. Anyone disagree? These are the exact symptoms my 5th Gen had before replacing the R/R. After replacing the R/R with a non Honda unit (it was an after market model designed for the 5th Gen), all problems were fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2010 I got a stator from Dennis Kirk but it doesn't have the factory connector on it. How do I know which wire connects to which on the R/R? Or does it matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 It doesn't matter. You can connect any 3 yellow to any 3 yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2010 It doesn't matter. You can connect any 3 yellow to any 3 yellow. I was sure hoping that was the case! Thanks. :cheerleader: Maybe I can finally get the big white bitch back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 It doesn't matter. You can connect any 3 yellow to any 3 yellow. I was sure hoping that was the case! Thanks. :cheerleader: Maybe I can finally get the big white bitch back on the road. Do yourself a favor and skip the connectors for the yellow wires - hardwire them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2010 Do yourself a favor and skip the connectors for the yellow wires - hardwire them in. Yep, that's what I was going to do. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Be sure to pick up a volt meter and check it all before taking off again! :cheerleader: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 You haven’t mentioned doing it, but I assume you are charging the battery first, right? Otherwise you risk burning up the R/R and Stator trying to charge a dead battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trav72 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2010 You haven’t mentioned doing it, but I assume you are charging the battery first, right? Otherwise you risk burning up the R/R and Stator trying to charge a dead battery. Yeah I've actually already charged up the battery I had just purchased. It's good to go. It's currently on a trickle charger waiting to be put back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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