Tires Tires Tires....

[billyjackjimbob]

So, I am going back to just straight up Pilot Powers for front and rear. I have tried the Road2 rear and Power front combo and it's not bad. But, as some of you may have read I've not been 100% sold on the idea. Simply put, the bike for me doesn't turn as easily as with the powers all around. No major complaints on the Road2 just that I have to make the bike really corner instead of simply asking it to. Also there have been way too many odd responses from the bike at turn in with the front and rear falling at different times. Also, my front is totally shot and the rear still has a ton of tread on it. I'm afraid that if I go with Road2s front and rear I'll really need to push the bike to get it to perform and honestly, I just love the way the Powers work for me. I get about 5000 miles on rear and that's where I am with the front now which needs to be replaced.

So, here is a question. What is the difference between a 120/60 120/65 and 120/70. Which one do I want for living in the curves?

Kevin

[JBAXX]

It's the sidewall height. The higher numbers are taller. I would stick with the 70.

[turtlecreek]

120/70 will have the steepest side wall, so will turn in the quickest. assuming you have been running 120/70's up to know, no geometry change is needed. if going from a 120/60 to 120/70, you might want to raise the forks to compensate for added tire height. technically, the 70 means 70% of the first number. so a 120/70 should be 120mm wide and 84mm tall as far as profile

[Guest]

So, here is a question. What is the difference between a 120/60 120/65 and 120/70. Which one do I want for living in the curves?

Kevin

Well, I don't have first-hand knowledge, but I'm thinking 120/70 is best...comparing motorcycle tires of the same width, a "taller" tire (higher middle/profile #) would probably mean a more aggressive curvature/triangulation = faster turn-in...

[dutchinterceptor]

So, I am going back to just straight up Pilot Powers for front and rear. I have tried the Road2 rear and Power front combo and it's not bad. But, as some of you may have read I've not been 100% sold on the idea. Simply put, the bike for me doesn't turn as easily as with the powers all around. No major complaints on the Road2 just that I have to make the bike really corner instead of simply asking it to. Also there have been way too many odd responses from the bike at turn in with the front and rear falling at different times. Also, my front is totally shot and the rear still has a ton of tread on it. I'm afraid that if I go with Road2s front and rear I'll really need to push the bike to get it to perform and honestly, I just love the way the Powers work for me. I get about 5000 miles on rear and that's where I am with the front now which needs to be replaced.

So, here is a question. What is the difference between a 120/60 120/65 and 120/70. Which one do I want for living in the curves?

Kevin

Kevin, I've got to agree with you on the Road2's. Obviously, the mileage is fantastic but the turn in is just not fun. I ran a PR2 rear and worn PP front to Texasmac a year ago and it just didn't feel "right". I attributed it to the stock suspension, overloaded on my luggage, and the front tire already having several hundred miles on it. For the Summit I ran PR2's front and rear with all new suspension and still am not crazy about the feel.

I'm definitely spoiled to the Powers that's for sure.

[JBAXX]

I just bought a PR2 rear/PP2ct front, and the profile on the PR2 is a lot flatter than the PP. Gonna have to see how it goes when I mount them, but if the PR2 doesn't feel right, it's coming off for a PP2ct!

I do ride 2 up sometimes on the Viffer though, so wear is an issue, and I usually ride the CBR1K for go-fasting.

[Baileyrock]

Kevin, I've got to agree with you on the Road2's. Obviously, the mileage is fantastic but the turn in is just not fun. I ran a PR2 rear and worn PP front to Texasmac a year ago and it just didn't feel "right". I attributed it to the stock suspension, overloaded on my luggage, and the front tire already having several hundred miles on it. For the Summit I ran PR2's front and rear with all new suspension and still am not crazy about the feel.

I'm definitely spoiled to the Powers that's for sure.

For sure, very few tires will turn as quick as PP's and they definitely make the VFR handle, but at 2200 miles from a rear I just can no longer afford to change tires at that rate! :unsure:

PR 2's turn quicker that any stock tire ever mounted on a VFR, but compared to a PP there slow turn in falls into the same category as about every other tire out there(slow). On the other hand, once you learn them they work great. It will take more effort(like most other tires) vs PP's, but I've run Road 2's faster than I've ever run PP's w/no issue.

That is the problem with PP's on a VFR, they spoil you. I've thought about returning to Road 2's front and rear, but would want to make a sizable geometry change to make up for the slower turn in. :blush:

I change my PP/PR 2 sets at the same time as there both toast between 3200-3500 miles, but that's a 50% increase in rear tire life with no loss in grip issues. Still a no brainer for me until something better comes along.

btw Dutch, you really need a new PP front at the same time as a road rear, otherwise you get to that strange balance feel prematurely on a worn PP front. :biggrin:

[Baileyrock]

I just bought a PR2 rear/PP2ct front, and the profile on the PR2 is a lot flatter than the PP. Gonna have to see how it goes when I mount them, but if the PR2 doesn't feel right, it's coming off for a PP2ct!

I do ride 2 up sometimes on the Viffer though, so wear is an issue, and I usually ride the CBR1K for go-fasting.

I sure wouldn't waste the money on a PP2ct rear especially with wear as an issue. They provide nothing over a standard PP rear other than wearing out faster.

At the track the optimal set-up is a PP2ct front w/ a standard PP rear for grip, life, feel and consistency. This is also what the guys who run STT track days recommend and their Michelin Distributors. :biggrin:

[dutchinterceptor]

Kevin, I've got to agree with you on the Road2's. Obviously, the mileage is fantastic but the turn in is just not fun. I ran a PR2 rear and worn PP front to Texasmac a year ago and it just didn't feel "right". I attributed it to the stock suspension, overloaded on my luggage, and the front tire already having several hundred miles on it. For the Summit I ran PR2's front and rear with all new suspension and still am not crazy about the feel.

I'm definitely spoiled to the Powers that's for sure.

For sure, very few tires will turn as quick as PP's and they definitely make the VFR handle, but at 2200 miles from a rear I just can no longer afford to change tires at that rate! :blush:

PR 2's turn quicker that any stock tire ever mounted on a VFR, but compared to a PP there slow turn in falls into the same category as about every other tire out there(slow). On the other hand, once you learn them they work great. It will take more effort(like most other tires) vs PP's, but I've run Road 2's faster than I've ever run PP's w/no issue.

That is the problem with PP's on a VFR, they spoil you. I've thought about returning to Road 2's front and rear, but would want to make a sizable geometry change to make up for the slower turn in. :blush:

I change my PP/PR 2 sets at the same time as there both toast between 3200-3500 miles, but that's a 50% increase in rear tire life with no loss in grip issues. Still a no brainer for me until something better comes along.

btw Dutch, you really need a new PP front at the same time as a road rear, otherwise you get to that strange balance feel prematurely on a worn PP front. :biggrin:

Yeah, we were talking about the worn PP fronts being an issue at the Summit and they definitely have an effect. No doubt the PR2's do everything they're supposed to do but I can't afford to run them all the time. Sucks being broke. :unsure:

[Bren]

120/70 will have the steepest side wall, so will turn in the quickest. assuming you have been running 120/70's up to know, no geometry change is needed. if going from a 120/60 to 120/70, you might want to raise the forks to compensate for added tire height. technically, the 70 means 70% of the first number. so a 120/70 should be 120mm wide and 84mm tall as far as profile

Ahhhmmm actually....

Aspect ratio number on your tyre.

This is the height of the sidewall from the rim to the tread, expressed as a percentage of the tread width.For example, if the tire is 120 mm wide, and its aspect ratio is 70, then the sidewall is about 84 mm tall (70 percent of 180 mm).

Sidewall height is important for a number of reasons.

The sidewall height affects the turn-in feel (the responsiveness you feel at bars) and the ride quality.

Lower aspect ratio (shorter sidewall) provides better turn-in response than a higher aspect ratio, but at the expense of less break-away warning and a more jarring ride — in extreme cases, even exposing the wheels to potential bending and breaking damage from potholes and other surface irregularities.

12 years ago I put a set of 120/55 160/55 on my CBR600 , fm ´91. The 120/55 instead of the normal 120/70 made the bike drop intp corners so quick it was unbelievable! On the way back from the tyre fitters, after approx 8 miles, there was a turn around the corner from where I lived that was basically a one way, in town, 180 degree corner. As we all know when one has new tyres they should take it easy for the first 100 miles BUT, and it was unintentional, I scraped my pegs ALL the way round that corner. I didnt mean to, it just happened. I went around it 3 more times :fing02: to see if it was a fluke or I dont know what. It happened everytime. Straight line stability, 100 plus, was affected but you couldn´t ask for more when the road wasnt straight any more.

Plus don´t forget the VFR is a lot heavier than a CBR 600, even 12 years ago.

I would try a 120/60 or 65, if available, and see how you like it. But be aware straight line stability IS affected.

If you crash and burn into an inferno its on you. :cool:

Bren

[Guest]

When I was a photo major in college back everyone still used film,the joke was everyone had the yellow box syndrome.aka Kodak The same is true today in regards to tires there are alot of tires that are as good as and less expensive.Advertising and old mind sets are hard to change.

[bayarearider]

I just bought a PR2 rear/PP2ct front, and the profile on the PR2 is a lot flatter than the PP. Gonna have to see how it goes when I mount them, but if the PR2 doesn't feel right, it's coming off for a PP2ct!

I do ride 2 up sometimes on the Viffer though, so wear is an issue, and I usually ride the CBR1K for go-fasting.

Coming of PP's (when I bought it) I'm running this same PR2rear/PP2ct front this season and have been pretty happy with curving and slabbing alike. Have the PP2ct rear back up for winter if I need (more stick?)

I must not push it like some others but for an ST, it feels great! Would luv to get one of the overstock CBR's for fun...

4-16-09 007.jpg

[Guest]

When I was a photo major in college back everyone still used film,the joke was everyone had the yellow box syndrome.aka Kodak The same is true today in regards to tires there are alot of tires that are as good as and less expensive.Advertising and old mind sets are hard to change.

Isn't that how advertising is suppose to work? To convince you that you need something that you don't.

I never knew I had so many ailments and maladies until the drug companies started advertising pills for medical problems I've never heard of.

[Guest]

When I was a photo major in college back everyone still used film,the joke was everyone had the yellow box syndrome.aka Kodak The same is true today in regards to tires there are alot of tires that are as good as and less expensive.Advertising and old mind sets are hard to change.

Isn't that how advertising is suppose to work? To convince you that you need something that you don't.

I never knew I had so many ailments and maladies until the drug companies started advertising pills for medical problems I've never heard of.

God bless america :fing02:

[mechdziner714]

Anyone try the new dual compoud Dunlops yet. I would guess this is the tire to compete w/ PR2's and am wondering if the profiles are similar or more aggressive like the PP's.

[dutchinterceptor]

Anyone try the new dual compoud Dunlops yet. I would guess this is the tire to compete w/ PR2's and am wondering if the profiles are similar or more aggressive like the PP's.

I ran one set, mostly slab wet and dry with some twisties thrown in for good measure. Profiles are similar. The front tire doesn't have the dual compound but I'd say they're darn good and certainly cheaper. They turn in a lot better than the Michelin's for me I think partially cause the tire is stiffer and doesn't flex quite as much. That's what I plan to use for my local runs and of course swap to the Powers for my mountain trips.

[turtlecreek]

120/70 will have the steepest side wall, so will turn in the quickest. assuming you have been running 120/70's up to know, no geometry change is needed. if going from a 120/60 to 120/70, you might want to raise the forks to compensate for added tire height. technically, the 70 means 70% of the first number. so a 120/70 should be 120mm wide and 84mm tall as far as profile

Ahhhmmm actually....

Aspect ratio number on your tyre.

This is the height of the sidewall from the rim to the tread, expressed as a percentage of the tread width.For example, if the tire is 120 mm wide, and its aspect ratio is 70, then the sidewall is about 84 mm tall (70 percent of 180 mm).

ahhhmmmmm and where are we disagreeing??? :huh:

[Baileyrock]

Anyone try the new dual compoud Dunlops yet. I would guess this is the tire to compete w/ PR2's and am wondering if the profiles are similar or more aggressive like the PP's.

Which one's?

I love Dunlop race DOT's at the track, they grip like a mofo and last longer than any other race tire I've( even though I'm still faster on Michelin's), I can't figure out why they can't make a good street tire! :laugh: Maybe this new one will be closer to it! :huh:

[VFR4Lee]

I'm happy with Pilot Powers on both bikes.

Better mileage than the Pirelli Diablos that were on the Ape when I got it,

and better than the D208's I ran on the VFR before I switched to look for better mileage.

Not that the mileage is great, but I tend to have a heavy throttle hand sometimes,

so I want a good tire under me. :huh:

As for the price, yeah they're steep. Oh, my aching bank account. :laugh:

[JBAXX]

I just bought a PR2 rear/PP2ct front, and the profile on the PR2 is a lot flatter than the PP. Gonna have to see how it goes when I mount them, but if the PR2 doesn't feel right, it's coming off for a PP2ct!

I do ride 2 up sometimes on the Viffer though, so wear is an issue, and I usually ride the CBR1K for go-fasting.

I sure wouldn't waste the money on a PP2ct rear especially with wear as an issue. They provide nothing over a standard PP rear other than wearing out faster.

At the track the optimal set-up is a PP2ct front w/ a standard PP rear for grip, life, feel and consistency. This is also what the guys who run STT track days recommend and their Michelin Distributors. :huh:

Thanks BR! I got the PR/PP thinking " if it's good enough for Baileyrock, it's good enough for me", so I'm gonna give it a go.

[kwr8728]

Kevin,

I believe he is referring to the Dunlop Roadsmart. My dad has a set on his ST. Seems to like them thus far. No telling how long they will last tho.

As for me, i'm torn. BT016, Powers, The new Q2...hrm

[Guest]

If you doing lot's of leaning always go with the 55 profile they have more contact surface on the edges.

If your doing lot's of strait lines the 50 has a larger footprint and won't wear as fast as the 55's.

I love PP2's but would never run them on my bike,... for the simple reason I would end up changing tires more often than the oil.

Here's a pic showing the difference in profiles.

I run the 190/50's

[Guest]

I guess I should read all the posts before responding.

Looks like it's already been said in a few different way's.

Ooops.

[JBAXX]

It's all good. The graphic is helpful.

[JBAXX]

I sure wouldn't waste the money on a PP2ct rear especially with wear as an issue. They provide nothing over a standard PP rear other than wearing out faster.

?? Thought the 2ct had more edge grip??