Guest BlueFireIce Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 *sigh*...I just got my new shock installed and now it's something else..It's been crossing my mind of just selling it and finding something else. I had the bike die out on me a few times. It would run ok but when I would pull in the clutch to down shift for a slow turn or something the bike would die (as the rpms went down) and would be hard to kick off sometimes or dead altogether. So I thought "time for a new battery", well I got one, charged her up and put her in, bike ran SO much better and it has been fine for about 4 days of short rides to work. Today I installed my new shock and came straight home to wait for it to cool down to really go out and test the new set up. Well, I just went outside to do just that and nothing, turned over about one time and then just "click click". I know it's not the battery now, I have a "updated" RR, beefed up grounds etc. I had thought something might be up when I got home, as when I killed the bike I could hear the fan as if it was slowing down. Is my stator going or what? Any ideas input? I know these bikes have electrical issues but come on! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlecreek Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 sorry to hear about the troubles you've been here a while... you know the drill. r/r and wire are beefed, stator is next. for just a quick check, did you insure the battery was charge after purchasing? did you insure the terminals were on tight? do the voltage check at off;idle and 5k rpm and let us know what you read after charging the battery up over night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 sorry to hear about the troubles you've been here a while... you know the drill. r/r and wire are beefed, stator is next. for just a quick check, did you insure the battery was charge after purchasing? did you insure the terminals were on tight? do the voltage check at off;idle and 5k rpm and let us know what you read after charging the battery up over night. After filling the battery and letting it sit for about 3 hours I charged it over night. Terminals were cleaned very well, tightened and sealed with terminal protectant. I can't do any checks on the voltage until Monday (will take it to the shop with me), so I thought I would ask and get other ideas so I can check everything at one time. Yeah, I have been here a little wile now...I was just praying I would not have to spend another 200 bucks on a stator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 I feel for you man! I'm in basically the same boat, only my bike doesn't die while riding. You would think after so many years Honda would figure out a cure for all of these electrical problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I feel for you man! I'm in basically the same boat, only my bike doesn't die while riding. You would think after so many years Honda would figure out a cure for all of these electrical problems They have...It's called owners. :fing02: I took the bike out for another ride (after charging) and its doing the same thing as with the old battery, I can't let the rpm's go under 2,500 or it will cut out. I am pretty sure its the stator...*sigh*, here we go again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 They have...It's called owners. :fing02: :goofy: Touche I took the bike out for another ride (after charging) and its doing the same thing as with the old battery, I can't let the rpm's go under 2,500 or it will cut out. I am pretty sure its the stator...*sigh*, here we go again. See now that sounds reasonable to me. I would think that if the stator is not working correctly that the bike would die. My bike has never died even with a dead battery. Yet it will kill the battery on any long ride :fing02: ???? I'm lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 They have...It's called owners. :fing02: :goofy: Touche I took the bike out for another ride (after charging) and its doing the same thing as with the old battery, I can't let the rpm's go under 2,500 or it will cut out. I am pretty sure its the stator...*sigh*, here we go again. See now that sounds reasonable to me. I would think that if the stator is not working correctly that the bike would die. My bike has never died even with a dead battery. Yet it will kill the battery on any long ride :fing02: ???? I'm lost. Yeah, I had a problem with the bike starting, turned out to be the r/r. If I change out the stator on mine, I don't think there will be anything else to change, as everything has been replace already lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I'm probably going to go the route of elimination. Start with replacing the r/r, and if that doesn't work replace the stator. I'm not sure, but maybe I should just do the both and have it over with! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I'm probably going to go the route of elimination. Start with replacing the r/r, and if that doesn't work replace the stator. I'm not sure, but maybe I should just do the both and have it over with! :fing02: Haha, Yeah, know the feeling. Be a shame to waste money on one or the other though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ECX585 Posted July 27, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2008 I had the same problem three years ago. Turned out to be the R/R. I replaced ONLY the R/R and it's been running fine ever since. I'd wait on the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuldogg Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 So much has been posted on this and other VFR sites re: electrical charging system woes, it is worth researching and reading the relevant posts. I don't think it's a good idea to simply replace parts (stator, r/r, battery) because often it's the wire connectors or the size of the wires that is the problem. For example Honda issued a recall of all 6th gen. VFR's to replace the wiring harness with an upgraded version ( allegedly has larger size wires in the charging circut). What you need to do is: 1. verify that the battery you're currently using is good (have it tested by a reliable m.c. shop). 2. get a digital volt/ohm meter and verify that the voltage across the batt. terminals is >13.0 v. before you turn on the key. 3. start engine and verify that you're getting more volts with the engine running than you had before you started the engine. 4. rev engine to 5K rpm's and verify that voltage is at least 13.5v. but not over 14.5 v. If all of these measurements aren't good, then you have to find out where the problem lies. Since you have already eliminated the battery in step 1, that leaves the R/R , the alternator, or the wiring and/or connectors. If the voltage rises over 15v. when you rev the engine then the R/R is most likely defective(but at least you know the alternator is o.k.). If the voltage rises slightly with the engine running check the wiring and asso. connectors. You can also bare the red wire(s) coming out of the R/R and jump directly to the (+) terminal on the battery. If the voltage increases to within specs. with this set-up, then make it a permanent fix and your problems will be over. If you can get a manual for your bike this will be a great help as it will show how to test the stator, R/R, and so forth. If you're going to keep the bike and plan on doing the work yourself this and a digital volt/ohm meter are essential. Good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 So much has been posted on this and other VFR sites re: electrical charging system woes, it is worth researching and reading the relevant posts. I don't think it's a good idea to simply replace parts (stator, r/r, battery) because often it's the wire connectors or the size of the wires that is the problem. For example Honda issued a recall of all 6th gen. VFR's to replace the wiring harness with an upgraded version ( allegedly has larger size wires in the charging circut). What you need to do is: 1. verify that the battery you're currently using is good (have it tested by a reliable m.c. shop). 2. get a digital volt/ohm meter and verify that the voltage across the batt. terminals is >13.0 v. before you turn on the key. 3. start engine and verify that you're getting more volts with the engine running than you had before you started the engine. 4. rev engine to 5K rpm's and verify that voltage is at least 13.5v. but not over 14.5 v. If all of these measurements aren't good, then you have to find out where the problem lies. Since you have already eliminated the battery in step 1, that leaves the R/R , the alternator, or the wiring and/or connectors. If the voltage rises over 15v. when you rev the engine then the R/R is most likely defective(but at least you know the alternator is o.k.). If the voltage rises slightly with the engine running check the wiring and asso. connectors. You can also bare the red wire(s) coming out of the R/R and jump directly to the (+) terminal on the battery. If the voltage increases to within specs. with this set-up, then make it a permanent fix and your problems will be over. If you can get a manual for your bike this will be a great help as it will show how to test the stator, R/R, and so forth. If you're going to keep the bike and plan on doing the work yourself this and a digital volt/ohm meter are essential. Good luck ! Battery is good, checked it at my shop when I first put it in. r/r was replaced already, wires have been beefed up, so all that's left really is the stator, which is why I asked, maybe someone had something else in mind. I have all the tools needed at the shop, I just planed on having a nice weekend for once, so I am not messing with it until Monday lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 One of the best flowcharts you can use is the one from Electrosport. From personal experience I wouldn't recommend their products, but the fault finding diagram is great! Fault Finding Guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Ended up having a crap load of work and things on my plate as of late so it took me some time to get it tested over at my shop...Plugged it up and it was reading a big fat 0 for alternator output. Voltage started at 11.1v (battery not fully charged) and kept dropping down to 10v before I killed the bike. Anyone have suggestions on places online to buy a replacement stator? What about these higher output ones I hear about, Any good? Brands to stay away from? Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted September 3, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2008 Anyone? Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Anyone? Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Not looking for a battery, it's new. I tested the stator at my shop and its dead, 100%. I am looking for places online to buy a new stator, and input on weather the "heavy duty" ones are any good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 do not assume that ANYTHING is working ok...even that fairly new R/R...anything that can fail, will, and new parts are always suspect.(but I doubt it is your shock....) Test the Stator output, in AC Volts, between the yellow wires...at 5k RPM you should have 50-65 VAC. wires 1-2 wires 2-3 wires 1-3 Also test each wire for continuity to ground, there should be none. Stator for that bike is $125, R/R is $115, not testing and just replacing parts until the problem goes away is not the best route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted September 3, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2008 Not looking for a battery, it's new. I tested the stator at my shop and its dead, 100%. I am looking for places online to buy a new stator, and input on weather the "heavy duty" ones are any good. Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to conclusions... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Not looking for a battery, it's new. I tested the stator at my shop and its dead, 100%. I am looking for places online to buy a new stator, and input on weather the "heavy duty" ones are any good. Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to conclusions... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... do not assume that ANYTHING is working ok...even that fairly new R/R...anything that can fail, will, and new parts are always suspect.(but I doubt it is your shock....)Test the Stator output, in AC Volts, between the yellow wires...at 5k RPM you should have 50-65 VAC. wires 1-2 wires 2-3 wires 1-3 Also test each wire for continuity to ground, there should be none. Stator for that bike is $125, R/R is $115, not testing and just replacing parts until the problem goes away is not the best route. As I said, I have tested the stator at my shop (I work on race cars for a living, I'm not guessing and not my first time around with a stator.) I have full diagnostic equipment at my shop and I tested the stator, it's dead, no question about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Out of curiosity, what failed in your stator? Ricks sells good units, and has good customer service...I resell their parts to go along with my harnesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Out of curiosity, what failed in your stator? Ricks sells good units, and has good customer service...I resell their parts to go along with my harnesses. What do you mean what failed in the stator? And who's Rick, website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Out of curiosity, what failed in your stator? Ricks sells good units, and has good customer service...I resell their parts to go along with my harnesses. What do you mean what failed in the stator? And who's Rick, website? You said the stator was bad, but not what was wrong with it. Was one phase shorted to ground, missing continuity, performing less that the others? Ricks Motorsport Electric is a supplier of Stators and R/R's (and other things). Many on here use them for replacement parts, and I also source from them when needed. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Alright, now mine's playing up big time, and I had installed your VFRness Tightwad, in the hope of avoiding the gremlins. But yesterday my '03 VTEC with 60.000 km cut out on me in the fast lane on a 3 lane highway. Had no choice but to jump off and push it across three lanes of highway traffic. I am absolutely fuming at Honda España as they have not sent out recall letters and are turning a blind eye, and yesterday I could have easily been killed or seriously injured if it weren't for the Audi driver behind me who realized I was in trouble, braked accordingly and then stayed behind me crossing lanes in unison with me to protect me from oncoming vehicles... I truly thank this cager for having the good will and sense to lend me a hand. I can guarantee, it's not easy pushing a 250 kg bike with one hand while waving down the traffic to stop for me with the other... The day before I noticed surging at around 8,000 RPM and at least always in VTEC mode. I also noticed the horn wasn't sounding so healthy. Once off the road, I turned the key to ON and the kill-switch to RUN, the bike ran its checks but didn't have the grunt to turn the motor over. Whilst waiting for Roadside Assistance I took off the fairing and checked all the connectors and fuses and wires and bits that I could. Found nothing unusual in any of the usual places. (Blue connector, R/R connectors, battery terminals tight, no burnt smell anywhere). This day I didn't have my Multimeter on me, usually have it in the first-aid kit. I'm hoping it's the R/R 'cause the alternator sounds like more fuss and potentially more expensive over here in Spain, unless I do it myself. The R/R is an easy swap out. Finally a friend beat the mechanic, so we jump started her and in the time it took me to undo the jumper-leads, put on helmet, gloves and jacket, she died in the arse again. Got her going and halfway home the RPM needle started jumping around all crazy and there was major surging, not even holding high revs was enough. We went back home in the car, grabbed a spare battery and the bike was as smooth as butter. I figured this would serve as a test on whether it was just the battery or siomething worse. Later that night on leaving work, the bike wouldn't start. No battery. OK, so now I have to test the R/R and Alternator or Stator (what's the difference?) My question is: where are the three wires you refer to Tightwatd? Are these the yellow wires at the R/R? Do these come in from the stator to the R/R or leave the R/R and go to the Battery? Can I test between them at the connector by sticking the probe into where the wires fit into the connector? I'm charging up the battery so I can run these tests with th multimeter... IS there a detailed how to on this...?? I haven't found one... this is a real bummer... I went through something similar 2 years ago with the 5th gen ('98) but it didn't surge, the battery would just die on me one day and another behave normally. That time it was the R/R, I'm thinking this time it's the stator... mecaguenlamarsalada... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 OK, just ran first check. At the battery terminals with the key to ON and the kill-switch to RUN: 12.00 V. The motor turned over as the battery was freshly charged up. At idle: 12.00 V. At 5,000 RPM: 12.00 V. At idle again: 12.00 V and dropping, slowly but surely dropping. Stator right? A regulator can't regulate zero output from the stator and turn it into 14.00 V. If it were the regulator, and based on my past troubles with a regulator, you tend to get sub-standard and/or fluctuating outputs but not flat-out zero. Next step is to test the stator output, but as I mention above I don't quite know where... I think it's the three yellow wires above the RHS radiator, but I am under some impression that they are the R/R wires... can someone tell me exactly, in detail and with photos or drawings if possible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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