fuldogg

I have a classic red '98 VFR with 42,800 miles. I'm the 2nd owner and it is in excellent condition. No accidents, always garaged, very well maintained by mature adult. Modifications include: Helibars, throtlemeister cruise control, Corbin seat with backrest, I'll throw in a set of RKA saddlebags with matching red tank bag and a new set of Michelin pilot power tires that have never been mounted. $3,500 pics on request P.M. or e-mail fuldog@comcast.net

I'm the 2nd owner of a 1998 red VFR with 70k miles. It is in very good condition, always garaged, lots of spare parts included, and I have all the maintenance records for the past 19 years. will send pics on request. Asking $2750 p.m. if interested.

This question is about FRONT wheel interchangeability : Will a 6th generation (2002) front wheel, with rotors fit on a 5th generation ('98 - '01) bike ? I can get one at a good price but I can't try to fit into my ('98 vfr) forks w/o buying and having it shipped. Anyone know the answer ?

As others have stated you must go to a store and try on helmets. Don't buy online or mail order as you can't try them on and if you do try on at a store and then order the same make/model online you are conrtibuting to the demise of your local store and when he goes out of business then where are you going to go to try on your next helmet ?

As an experienced welder, my advice is to take a class or two at your local high school or college before buying anything. Not only will you learn and practice the basics of Ox/Actl , stick welding, mig, and possibly tig but you will also become familiar enough with the techniques and equipment to make a good choice for your equipment purchase(s).

If you're going to do diagnostics and/or maintainence yourself you must have a battery charger, volt/ohm meter (preferablly digital) and a good repair manual. Without these you are in the dark.

+1 on "if it ain't broke, don't fix it " otoh, if you come across a r/r at a very good price you could buy it and keep it with your bike in case your installed one does go bad.

Does anyone know if a '96 front wheel (complete with axle,spacers, and rotors) will fit on a '98 VFR ? I would like to be able to have a spare front wheel set up with a different tire so I can easily swap. The complete '96 wheel is available for a good price, but isn't close by and I can't check the various measurements without buying it first.

Sorry to hear about your accident and sorry to see the bike in such a mess. Glad you wern't injured more severly. Regarding your groin injury : A couple of years ago Wendy Moon a crintributor to MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS did a study on groin injuries caused by the shape of modern sportbike gas tanks. The conclusion is that this is a very serious problem and the only way to lessen the impact is to go back to the low back tanks that were common on motorcycles up until the 80's. Perhaps if the designers heard more from victims such as yourself they might change the tank designs.

Thanks for the pics and description of your ride. I'll be sure to try LaPorte-Quincy road next time I'm in that neck of the woods. Too bad about the speeding tix though, I feel your pain. BTW, it's a good idea to chart all the CHP offices along the way next time you plan a ride. They usually don't patrol too far from their offices and give out the vast majority of tickets within a 20 mile radius of their office. I think you will find there is an office in Quincy.

1st VFR was an '87 and the reason for buying was that the ergos (especially the tank cutouts) fit me perfectly. After riding a while I came to love the sound of the gear driven cam motor as well as the flexibility of the engine (tractable down to 3k rpm), and with a big sweet spot from 6-10k rpm. 10 yrs. later rode a friends '98 and was very impressed. More power, much better brakes, and the convienence of the sssa. I do miss the lighter weight of the gen. 3 model though.

DATELINE; Summer of 2008 LOCATION: Middle of nowhere THE STORY: Local highway patrolmen are baffled by the mounting number of pre v-tech VFR's found abandoned alongside the road with dead batteries. Some were even found at the bottom of cliffs with suspicious looking boot marks on the sides of the tank. Speculation is mounting that owners were simply tired of being stranded by their otherwise reliable steeds and either walked away or, in a fit of anger, pushed or kicked them over a cliff. A spokesman for American Honda vehemently denies any such speculation and atributes any such rumors of faulty design to burned out diodes and overheated connectors in the brains of said rumormongers. More to follow.

So much has been posted on this and other VFR sites re: electrical charging system woes, it is worth researching and reading the relevant posts. I don't think it's a good idea to simply replace parts (stator, r/r, battery) because often it's the wire connectors or the size of the wires that is the problem. For example Honda issued a recall of all 6th gen. VFR's to replace the wiring harness with an upgraded version ( allegedly has larger size wires in the charging circut). What you need to do is: 1. verify that the battery you're currently using is good (have it tested by a reliable m.c. shop). 2. get a digital volt/ohm meter and verify that the voltage across the batt. terminals is >13.0 v. before you turn on the key. 3. start engine and verify that you're getting more volts with the engine running than you had before you started the engine. 4. rev engine to 5K rpm's and verify that voltage is at least 13.5v. but not over 14.5 v. If all of these measurements aren't good, then you have to find out where the problem lies. Since you have already eliminated the battery in step 1, that leaves the R/R , the alternator, or the wiring and/or connectors. If the voltage rises over 15v. when you rev the engine then the R/R is most likely defective(but at least you know the alternator is o.k.). If the voltage rises slightly with the engine running check the wiring and asso. connectors. You can also bare the red wire(s) coming out of the R/R and jump directly to the (+) terminal on the battery. If the voltage increases to within specs. with this set-up, then make it a permanent fix and your problems will be over. If you can get a manual for your bike this will be a great help as it will show how to test the stator, R/R, and so forth. If you're going to keep the bike and plan on doing the work yourself this and a digital volt/ohm meter are essential. Good luck !