Auspanglish Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Tested the stator wires. Resistance 0.3 Ohms, good. No continuity, good. but output = 3.2V AC / 1.5 V AC and 0.9 V AC. = Bad. They all rise with revs but appear te way substandard... new staor, R/R and prolly battery s well... jeez, where does it end?? Spain did not get on the recall bandwagon, but I will be paying them a visit & speaking my mind.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Make sure you are testing the Stator with the Stator to R/R plug unhooked. Testing them with the R/R hooked won't give you the right readings at all! If you need a Stator or R/R slipped into Spain, let me know and I will ship there like last time (but with better knowledge of what to call the item!).....but first thing is verifying that the Stator is the problem, and not the R/R! Email me if needed as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Make sure you are testing the Stator with the Stator to R/R plug unhooked. Testing them with the R/R hooked won't give you the right readings at all!If you need a Stator or R/R slipped into Spain, let me know and I will ship there like last time (but with better knowledge of what to call the item!).....but first thing is verifying that the Stator is the problem, and not the R/R! Email me if needed as well. Yeah, thanks Josh, I actually tested it both ways as I wasn't sure whether it should be plugged or unplugged. The readings posted above are unplugged. Plugged readings weren't any better or any worse, you could see the same relationship between the three, each one about half the strength of the next and none of them in what I figure would be a decent range. I actually don't know exactly how many Volts they should read as I can't see it mentioned in the Service Manual, but the values my multimeter gave don't look healthy to me (should be up around 14 - 15 V surely... but I'm not sure as perhaps some Volts are lost in rectifying from AC to DC. Either way they should all read the same and they don't and at least they would have to read way higher and not as low as they do. I am fairly convinced it's the stator, I will change out the R/R as well as apparently the newer version (2004 onwards) of the R/R deals with peaks in voltage in a different way (piecemeal instead of shortcircuiting (uncertain of my terminology)). An electronic engineer I know has stated that the protective coating on the coils is faulty and the way the original R/R operates (and most act in this way), it is detrimental in combination with said coating. I was hoping the VFRness would free me of such a fate, but I guess it's probably saved the original wiring harness and other components from frying as all connectors and such appear to be healthy. In hindsight, I figure it can't avoid the faulty insulation in an alternator from giving up the ghost in a hot climate. C'est la vie. How much do you charge for the stator and R/R? Apparently Honda fixed the problem in the stators from 2004 on... but they cost a mint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlecreek Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 for some reason 50V comes to mind BUT NOT CERTAIN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 50-65 VAC is the reading you should get between any two of the yellow wires, while the bike is running(yes, that is important). R/R is $115, but may require some modification as it doesn't have the same Stator Plug Stator is $145 and has the correct 6th gen plug, so it would have to be changed if you used another R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 OK, so perhaps I was reading these VAC at a different scale and it was really 32 / 15 / 9 VAC, but even if it was on that scale, it's still below par. Josh... do those prices include postage to Spain? I'm sure you could sort out the right connectors for me. My only hesitation is customs... remember?? would your R/R have the feedback wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 I did some more digging, and here is what I found: The 2000-2001 Stator has larger "stacks" than the 2002+ model. I imagine, but don't know without personal testing, that they would perform differently. The 2002+ model is readily available and has the correct 2002+ R/R plug. Ricks does not sell a 2002+ R/R, and the 2000-2001 model does not appear to have an external monitor wire, instead it monitors it internally. There is no reason this same option wouldn't work for 2002+ models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Out of curiosity, what failed in your stator? Ricks sells good units, and has good customer service...I resell their parts to go along with my harnesses. Sorry about taking so long, got hit by both storms pretty good (power just came back on last night), I don't remember the readings I got off the stator. The paper I had it all on is well...who knows where. But it was not good, without a doubt, even had a racing buddy double check it for me. I just went to go pick up my bike from the shop (big steel I-beam shop, good place for your toys in a hurricane), I charged up the battery and was getting ready to ride it back home when I started to smell something burning, I took off the seat and I swear I saw smoke coming right from where the R/R is at, smelled like that all the way home, but didn't see anymore smoke...Maybe I was seeing things...I don't know, but I guess I will be taking the seat cowl back off and look to see whats going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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