Alternative Wheel Nuts

[enzed_viffer]

Someone on here once posted about losing a rear wheel nut, and some helpful person mentioned in reply that Honda Civic wheel nuts fitted the VFR.

My wheel nuts look a bit manky, despite painting them with Hammerite silver paint (which helped, till my "bike guy" stripped most of it off with his air wrench).

My question is, given that Civic wheel nuts apparently fit, are there some nice chromed Civic (or other Honda) wheelnuts that could be substituted?

As my rims are a bit scratched, some time in the future I intend to strip and polish them, and the wheel nuts will detract somewhat from the look. My options seem to be having the current nuts (or some replacements) plated, or buy something off the shelf which looks OK.

Any ideas?

[Darth Bling]

Something like this: http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Honda-A-m-alloy-wh...7QQcmdZViewItem

[enzed_viffer]

Yeah, that's perfect. Thanx!

Apart from the price.

And the location.

Now I just need to find summat like that here in Noo Zilund. :thumbsup:

[Guest]

you need to make sure you get the right pitch, length (so they don't bottom out) and make sure that they are acorn profile seat (honda) and not straight taper like most aftermarket. Stock civic ones are chromed so you can get them from the dealer, IIRC they are M12x1.25mm pitch but check for yourself please......

[fallzboater]

you need to make sure you get the right pitch, length (so they don't bottom out) and make sure that they are acorn profile seat (honda) and not straight taper like most aftermarket. Stock civic ones are chromed so you can get them from the dealer, IIRC they are M12x1.25mm pitch but check for yourself please......

Good points. I think there are at least two common lug nut ball sest diameters available, no idea which one the VFR uses.

He could always live with the manky nuts and top it off with the wonder of the Thurn hubcap! :goofy:

[Darth Bling]

Yeah, that's perfect. Thanx!

Apart from the price.

And the location.

Now I just need to find summat like that here in Noo Zilund. :thumbsup:

What's wrong with the price? £1.49 = NZ $4.09.

[enzed_viffer]

What's wrong with the price? £1.49 = NZ $4.09.

I haven't learned much Dutch from my in-laws, and the set I clicked (that looked like chromed versions of the VFR lugnuts) came up with a really mental price (24.99 pooondz, or 35.63 Euro) . Maybe it was for five sets or summat...

[enzed_viffer]

Roit.

I found some chrome-plated wheel nuts at a local(ish) autoparts store, for NZ$15 for 4 (about $2.78 in real currency). Bunged them on, they look FABULOUS, and the wheel hasn't fallen off.

Yet.

One of the cheaper blingz I've added. :thumbsup:

Oh - and when I peered inside the OEM nuts, the thread was looking a bit dodgy, courtesy of over-exuberant rattlegunning, so replacing them was a good idea.

[SEBSPEED]

Roit.

I found some chrome-plated wheel nuts at a local(ish) autoparts store, for NZ$15 for 4 (about $2.78 in real currency). Bunged them on, they look FABULOUS, and the wheel hasn't fallen off.

Yet.

One of the cheaper blingz I've added. :thumbsup:

Oh - and when I peered inside the OEM nuts, the thread was looking a bit dodgy, courtesy of over-exuberant rattlegunning, so replacing them was a good idea.

If the nuts were looking dodgy, did you check the studs? :blink:

[fallzboater]

Oh - and when I peered inside the OEM nuts, the thread was looking a bit dodgy, courtesy of over-exuberant rattlegunning, so replacing them was a good idea.

Ouch. Just say no to the rattlegun.

[enzed_viffer]

If the nuts were looking dodgy, did you check the studs? :blink:

Nup, but I did think about it, and I will check them sometime.

Probably when I go back to Kerry and get him to tighten the rear Ariete valve stem (and he wrecks my new nuts). :unsure:

Maybe I'll just take the wheel off and take it into his workshop.

I did notice the new nuts seem to go on and tighten up easier than the old ones.

I also noticed they are VERY shiny in the sun!

Yeah, I know:

Camera's at home today. Yesterday was TheDayFromHell, so it was a miracle I managed to buy and change the nuts as it was. :idea3:

[Rivcyko]

I went locking nuts. Even shinier!!!. LOL.

[Silver#788]

I went locking nuts. Even shinier!!!. LOL.

Which locks did you use and wheres can I find some? Pleasse. :salesman:

[dude]

I went locking nuts. Even shinier!!!. LOL.

Which locks did you use and wheres can I find some? Pleasse. :salesman:

:huh:

[Guest]

It's always a good idea to lock your nuts. :D :P :o

Please share as they do look nice.

[Dutchy]

Roit.

I found some chrome-plated wheel nuts at a local(ish) autoparts store, for NZ$15 for 4 (about $2.78 in real currency). Bunged them on, they look FABULOUS, and the wheel hasn't fallen off.

Yet.

One of the cheaper blingz I've added. :thumbsup:

Oh - and when I peered inside the OEM nuts, the thread was looking a bit dodgy, courtesy of over-exuberant rattlegunning, so replacing them was a good idea.

you didnot use nut powder???? :wheel:

[enzed_viffer]

you didnot use nut powder???? :wheel:

No, although I did consider blue loctite and anti-seize (though not together).

Locking nuts? I almost bought some of those (they were on the same rack), but they were nearly 3 times the price.

I was going to say, "No, I'm not a CheapBastid", but then I realised I probably am. :unsure:

Although I *did* buy the most expensive valve stems and pay $40 to have them fitted, for a total of NZ$89.

Ouchies....

But I'm too cheap to pay $400 for a dynotune for the PCII. Although that's starting to look like a good idea, as I unplugged it this morning, and it generally ran better than with any of the maps I've tried. :goofy:

[Dutchy]

I was going to say, "No, I'm not a CheapBastid", but then I realised I probably am. :wheel:

But I'm too cheap to

Must be your dutch roots....

[Rivcyko]

I went locking nuts. Even shinier!!!. LOL.

Which locks did you use and wheres can I find some? Pleasse. :salesman:

I don't recall the name brand. I got them off the shelf, from Auto Zone. Took one my org. nuts in with me, to match the taper. 'Twas like, the 6th mod I did. Never had a problem.

[enzed_viffer]

I was going to say, "No, I'm not a CheapBastid", but then I realised I probably am. :unsure:

But I'm too cheap to

Must be your dutch roots....

No, the Scottish ones. :wheel:

My wife has 100% Dutch genes, and strange monetary values. But I love her anyway.

[fallzboater]

But I'm too cheap to pay $400 for a dynotune for the PCII. Although that's starting to look like a good idea, as I unplugged it this morning, and it generally ran better than with any of the maps I've tried. :wheel:

Yeah, I wasn't that excited by any of the maps I downloaded, either. I just started with a zero map and filled in the areas I could tell were lean, mostly lower rpm range and throttle positions. I marked my throttle grip every 10%, so I could tell what throttle position I had while riding. The biggest (and cheapest) improvement was just disconnecting the O2 sensors on the 6th gen.

[enzed_viffer]

But I'm too cheap to pay $400 for a dynotune for the PCII. Although that's starting to look like a good idea, as I unplugged it this morning, and it generally ran better than with any of the maps I've tried. :wheel:

Yeah, I wasn't that excited by any of the maps I downloaded, either. I just started with a zero map and filled in the areas I could tell were lean, mostly lower rpm range and throttle positions. I marked my throttle grip every 10%, so I could tell what throttle position I had while riding. The biggest (and cheapest) improvement was just disconnecting the O2 sensors on the 6th gen.

You sure you're not my twin brother (the evil twin or the other one - you decide)? :P

I marked my throttle grip too! Put a fine silver paint line on it, then pencil marks on the throttle housing every 20% (10 was too close to read when riding). As it turned out, I didn't need anything else apart from the first 20% mark.

And it's :goofy: on the O2 sensors - I did that when I had a borrowed PCII, then left them like that when I took it out. In my case, it cost nothing - my son has all kinds of electronics in the basement, so I just trawled through it till I found the 330ohm resistors.

I think if I do what you said, I'll find that only the only areas needing tweaking are small throttle openings below 4k, and the region where the flapper valve opens. I remember when I had the borrowed PCII, the maps I tried all added fuel there, so I did too. When it ran worse, I added more, when it actually needed to be leaner. Counter-intuitive, I guess, but I think Honda overcompensated for leanness when the flapper opens.

I found intuition doesn't work: I drew up a chart of all the AAP and MP settings I needed, to see if I could get a feel for what "the general consensus was". For example, if most of them for MP at 5% throttle and 3500rpm were negative values, then I made sure I had a negative value of an average size.

Didn't really work out. :unsure:

I've no doubt the local Power Commander expert can come up with a good map for me, as he actually worked for Dynojet for a while. But now's not a good time for spending more money on the VFR.