Guest gr3664 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 2002, stopped in the middle of the freeway, pushed/glided off an exit, took out the battery, got a ride home, charged it overnight, reinstalled same and rode it home - after lengthy reading of as many posts as i could find, i have the following test results: voltage at the battery: motor off, 12.79 v at idle, 12.05 v @ 5000 rpm, 12.01 v disconnected the R/R, did same measurements: off, 12.68 v idle, 12.01 v 5000, 11.98 v so almost no change, implying R/R failure at the R/R i checked the R/W wire to ground = battery voltage Y/Y was in range G to ground, i had continuity checked coil at the 3P connector, found resistance in range and no continuity current leak was 2.4 mA (below 2.5 mA spec) * okay * so can i conclude from all this that i need a new R/R only, a new R/R + new battery, or the trifecta of new R/R + new battery + new stator (incidentally the recall on the 2002's stator only goes up to a certain VIN number, guy said they began replacing the newer ones before they left the factory, so mine has the 'new' stator already in it) battery was replaced within the last year - no discoloration on any of the fuses i looked at (main and all those other ones under the front fairing) any opinions, suggestions?? i am hoping for R/R replacement only but don't want to throw money away... i always think in terms of beer and a battery could cost me about 20 six-packs!! :goofy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Bling Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 IMHO, your current battery is fine. If on the other hand the R/R had overcharged the battery, then I would get a new one. But in your case, it just died. :idea3: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted July 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2007 Sounds like a stator to me, but likely the RR too. What is the AC current across the three legs of the stator output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Silver#788 Posted July 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2007 I know it sounds weird but I am pretty sure its your r/r. My bike had almost the exact same readings. Runs perfect with the r1 r/r installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I just went through a very similar event - I feel your pain. My bet is on the R/R or the stator - you are not getting a charge while running. Starting with the least expensive components, I would: Get the battery load tested and checked at your local shop (this should be free); Order in and install a new R/R (worst case you'll now have a spare); While you have the right hand fairing off, start up your bike an make sure that the three wires from the stator are NOT hot. Mine were so hot they fried the 3P connector yet the stator checked out to be in spec - go figure. You'll know after you change the R/R if you need a new stator. The Electrex/Electrosport Troubleshooting Flowchart was helpful to me. On my bike I ordered the whole alternator assembly (stator & flywheel) just to be on the safe side - my bike is my daily transportation. And while you wait for all the parts you might as well start on the electrical upgrades i.e. new charge wires, grounds, possibly the sensing wire (controversial), dielectric grease everything you can get to, AND install a voltmeter. This whole charging thing is a real pain - I really wish there was a way to definitively check the R/R and the stator. All the 2002 guys should get together and buy a R/R and just ship it to whoever has a problem. It would be the "test" R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 You need to check the AC voltage between the stator wires, with the engine running and the stator disconnected from the R/R, you should have about 30 to 50 or more AC volts between any two wires, if you do, your stator is good and your regulator rectifier is shot. If you want I can tell you how to test the R/R but VFR's are notorious for having bad R/R's, I have replaced many of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Testing the RR is fairly easy....its a true case of GIGO...garbage in, garbage out. If the RR receives the correct balanced input of at least 50 VAC on all three wires, and it has the correct signal coming into it, with good grounds, the output should be correct. Start with the stator....if it doesn't output correctly, nothing else matters. Once the Stator is right, you can check the RR. Most of all, be sure your foundation(Battery) is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Thanks guys, I will test the stator in an active mode, forgot to do that, absolutely correct guess i'm biased away from the stator being bad cause it's much more expensive and a hassle to fix, plus a lot of posts seems to ding the R/R back to the garage tonite - it's a bummer not riding and just waiting for parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 You need to check the AC voltage between the stator wires, with the engine running and the stator disconnected from the R/R, you should have about 30 to 50 or more AC volts between any two wires, if you do, your stator is good and your regulator rectifier is shot. If you want I can tell you how to test the R/R but VFR's are notorious for having bad R/R's, I have replaced many of them. "test the R/R"... i started thinking about that and wonder if you mean to set it up off the bike with some low voltage AC into the wires and measure what comes out?? you could even put it in the oven, say 200 deg, take it out and see if the readings change with temp, this could almost be fun, but maybe that's probably not what you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 You need to check the AC voltage between the stator wires, with the engine running and the stator disconnected from the R/R, you should have about 30 to 50 or more AC volts between any two wires, if you do, your stator is good and your regulator rectifier is shot. If you want I can tell you how to test the R/R but VFR's are notorious for having bad R/R's, I have replaced many of them. "test the R/R"... i started thinking about that and wonder if you mean to set it up off the bike with some low voltage AC into the wires and measure what comes out?? you could even put it in the oven, say 200 deg, take it out and see if the readings change with temp, this could almost be fun, but maybe that's probably not what you mean? I suppose if you have a way to generate 50 VAC in a 3 phase mode you could do just this. Couple it with DC powersupply that is adjustable and you could test the RR output in all sorts of ways....I shall look into this as a testing option for sure! Not sure about the oven part, or even if it is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted July 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 27, 2007 Test the stator as mentioned above to eliminate that as a possible cause. It would be a shame to order and wait on an R/R, install it, and still have no charging system, just to wait longer and spend more money. Send a PM to JoeW for a quote on any parts you need, he'll give you a much better price than a local dealer or the regular online places, and get it to you a lot faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Just so that y'all know - I tested my stator every which way from Sunday and it checked out GOOD in every respect (except that the wires got up to about 1000 degrees when you plugged it into a R/R). That said - changing the stator is not very difficult at all. I also think that the bad reputation for R/R came from those with the R/R under the rear fairing. I was out for a ride today at 22C (fairly cool) and my R/R was cool as a cucumber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I wonder what would have happened if the Stator Wires had been changed? Maybe they got overworked, hot, then fused...creating resistance more than they should have? Or maybe they are just too small to begin with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Test the stator as mentioned above to eliminate that as a possible cause. It would be a shame to order and wait on an R/R, install it, and still have no charging system, just to wait longer and spend more money.Send a PM to JoeW for a quote on any parts you need, he'll give you a much better price than a local dealer or the regular online places, and get it to you a lot faster. thanks for reminding me to test it in the active mode - wellllll i'm only getting 2.7 to 3.2 volts out even with high revs at the stator plug that goes to the R/R, three yellow wires, and assume from this that my stator needs to be replaced - now how do i know that the R/R is good if i don't have good electrical TO the R/R; phooey and other explectives, i've already ordered the R/R from servicehonda.com - should i cancel the order and replace it with the stator 'kit', or what? who is JoeW? sorry, i'm still fairly new to the discussion group - appreciate any help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted July 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2007 thanks for reminding me to test it in the active mode - wellllll i'm only getting 2.7 to 3.2 volts out even with high revs at the stator plug that goes to the R/R, three yellow wires, and assume from this that my stator needs to be replaced - now how do i know that the R/R is good if i don't have good electrical TO the R/R; phooey and other explectives, i've already ordered the R/R from servicehonda.com - should i cancel the order and replace it with the stator 'kit', or what? who is JoeW? sorry, i'm still fairly new to the discussion group - appreciate any help!! You shouldn't need the entire kit if yours was not affected by the recall, just part # 31120-MCW-D03. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Are you in AC setting and testing wire to wire with engine at about 3000 RPM ? If you are, and you only get what you posted, then your R/R is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 I am sorry, not your R/R, it is your stator, it should put alot more than that, sorry for the misunderstanding, my bad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I am sorry, not your R/R, it is your stator, it should put alot more than that, sorry for the misunderstanding, my bad! thanks, yes everyone seems to agree that it's the stator, now i don't know what to do about the R/R i ordered already, if they won't let me cancel, i guess i could always sell it on line - still have the hassle of figuring out which part i can buy, the honda parts thingee won't let me buy just the stator for some reason, wants me to buy the whole 'kit' stator plus flywheel... thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 thanks for reminding me to test it in the active mode - wellllll i'm only getting 2.7 to 3.2 volts out even with high revs at the stator plug that goes to the R/R, three yellow wires, and assume from this that my stator needs to be replaced - now how do i know that the R/R is good if i don't have good electrical TO the R/R; phooey and other explectives, i've already ordered the R/R from servicehonda.com - should i cancel the order and replace it with the stator 'kit', or what? who is JoeW? sorry, i'm still fairly new to the discussion group - appreciate any help!! You shouldn't need the entire kit if yours was not affected by the recall, just part # 31120-MCW-D03. thanks for the help, i asked the parts guy at the local honda dealer about this part number and he said it was for the 2003 stator, whenever he asks the computer for my year stator it always comes up with the kit 31100-mcw-315?? more confused than ever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Okay, i will order the stator/flywheel kit because that's the only way they'll do it - i'll will get the battery tested under load to make sure it's okay - then install the R/R when the coil arrives and do them together, following excellent instructions in the forum, once i get everything together i'll post my results and if i remember, any pictures i can do to help others - i'm still amazed that a 2002 honda would have this much trouble, not to mention the expense and nuisance and danger factors - on the 'good' side, this site is the best! everyone is very very helpful, thanks again to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I am confused, and want to be sure you checked it this way... When you test the stator, it should be engine running, but stator disconnected...then across each of the wires to each of the others(yellow to yellow). You should have ~50VAC this way, if the connector is connected you get very few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gr3664 Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I am confused, and want to be sure you checked it this way...When you test the stator, it should be engine running, but stator disconnected...then across each of the wires to each of the others(yellow to yellow). You should have ~50VAC this way, if the connector is connected you get very few. thanks for the post - i think i did it right, i unplugged the plug with the 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator (on right side snug up against one of the water hoses), then started the bike with my recharged battery (battery tested out okay at dealer), then tested across the first wire to the 3rd wire, then 1 to 2 then 2 to 3, etc and couldn't get anything above i think 3 to 4 volts, AC - and i tested the stator side, not the other side that goes to the R/R - i even tried at 5000 rpm's and it helped a little, +1 volt or so, but not 50 volts for sure - when you say 'stator disconnected' i assume you mean this plug with the 3 yellow wires disconnected, is that right?? i even got another voltmeter and tested my house current with both meters and they both meters seemed to be working fine - also, i wanted to be sure and i disconnected the other side of the R/R to make sure it wasn't affecting my stator measurement and got the same values... i noticed in the service manual it never mentions testing the voltage directly out of the stator, which i would think would be the easiest test... hmmm - when i measured the resistance and continuity, they were within spec - i feel like i'm going in circles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted August 1, 2007 Forum CEO Share Posted August 1, 2007 Stator, do the test in the manual check each of the yellow wires to ground, should not get continuity. Then ohms test each yellow wire to each yellow wire should be 0.1 to 1.0 ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted August 1, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted August 1, 2007 If you have no voltage across the leads from the stator, the stator is definitely dead. I would be willing to bet that your R/R is just fine. Before you install the new R/R, try it with your old one. Then you have the option of selling your new R/R while still sealed in the bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Adam30 Posted August 1, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted August 1, 2007 Unless I'm mistaken or didnt see it in the replies so far, but wasnt the stators for the 2002 covered under a recall of some kind? I know mine was replaced a couple years ago when i looked up service history, but before i owned the bike. And i swear, that it was listed as being a recalled item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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