89vfrrc24 Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 Thank you all for the suggestions. I thought i needed to hear the prime noise, but in fact, i already took off the pipe that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetores, turned on the motor, and it sends a lot of fuel. So i will presume that the pump is ok. I will check the carbs again. I will make a video with the air filter off and see if they all go up. I didn't think about the carbs because they always work fine. I sent the old starter clutch away 🙁 thought i didn't need her. But i have some photos. Thank you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 again.......do you have an air compressor you can use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 3 hours ago, squirrelman said: again.......do you have an air compressor you can use ? Yes, i have ! Why? Blow jigglers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 Did what you guys told me and i think i found a faulty carb... What do you think? What can i do now? Thank you so much VID_20230220_161635.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Thumbs Posted February 20, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2023 No3 slide isn’t moving, the membrane looks OK from the pics The needle is the very dirty or is it just the light Have you tried swapping the slide over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 9 minutes ago, Thumbs said: No3 slide isn’t moving, the membrane looks OK from the pics The needle is the very dirty or is it just the light Have you tried swapping the slide over? Swapping slide? Didn't understand. The needle is probably dirty. I think she was never clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 Just now, 89vfrrc24 said: Swapping slide? Didn't understand. The needle is probably dirty. I think she was never clean. Ok, change this needle and membrane to other carburetor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Thumbs Posted February 20, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2023 Correct It’s worth clearing the needle first and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR750F3 Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 Just clean it gently with some oil or wd40 needle and slide. Then it will move freely up and down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 looks like you screwed up the diaphragms installation--just as i suspected. it's really unnecessary to remove the cover over the slides for cleaning in almost every case and not always easy to get them seated back in their grooves correctly after they wrinkle and get old. air compressor can be used to check for proper slide function before carbs go back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 7 minutes ago, squirrelman said: looks like you screwed up the diaphragms installation--just as i suspected. it's really unnecessary to remove the cover over the slides for cleaning in almost every case and not always easy to get them seated back in their grooves correctly after they wrinkle and get old. air compressor can be used to check for proper slide function before carbs go back on. I will try to install them right this time I hope this topic have relation with this carb... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 test slides after reassembling them by shooting compressed air into the oval-shaped section at the top of the airbox side of carb. slide should rise strongly if the diaphragm is seated correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 3 minutes ago, squirrelman said: test slides after reassembling them by shooting compressed air into the oval-shaped section at the top of the airbox side of carb. slide should rise strongly if the diaphragm is seated correctly. Thank you so much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 No luck 😔 Only put the diaphragm on the right position and it slides... But the behavior remains VID_20230221_155922.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer airwalk Posted February 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2023 Sure looks/sounds like a problem relating to ignition, are you sure the start clutch housing that replaced the cracked one has all/every timing trigger “bump” in exactly the same place(s) as the original part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR750F3 Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 What is with the velocity stacks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted February 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 21, 2023 7 minutes ago, VFR750F3 said: What is with the velocity stacks? 88-89 is quite different from 86-87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted February 22, 2023 Share Posted February 22, 2023 did you remove the stacks when you worked on carbs ?"? the stacks will block critical holes unless they're indexed EXACTLY right on reassembly. starts and idles well, but you need to test and verify each slide action using compressed air. its not getting enough fuel to rev up. did you adjust floats or replace needle and seat ? could be very low fuel level in carbs due to a fault somewhere ? some bikes need the airbox and filter in place to run right, just sayin....................... 🤓 how old is the fuel? you could try running with the airbox, filter and tank in place as a test......after you're sure the fuel pump is working 🙄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 22, 2023 Author Share Posted February 22, 2023 10 hours ago, airwalk said: Sure looks/sounds like a problem relating to ignition, are you sure the start clutch housing that replaced the cracked one has all/every timing trigger “bump” in exactly the same place(s) as the original part? I order the original one for this model. Unfortunately i sent the cracked one to garbage. The installation has only one way. You can't go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 22, 2023 Author Share Posted February 22, 2023 7 hours ago, squirrelman said: did you remove the stacks when you worked on carbs ?"? the stacks will block critical holes unless they're indexed EXACTLY right on reassembly. starts and idles well, but you need to test and verify each slide action using compressed air. its not getting enough fuel to rev up. did you adjust floats or replace needle and seat ? could be very low fuel level in carbs due to a fault somewhere ? some bikes need the airbox and filter in place to run right, just sayin....................... 🤓 how old is the fuel? you could try running with the airbox, filter and tank in place as a test......after you're sure the fuel pump is working 🙄 VID_20230221_160230.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted February 22, 2023 Share Posted February 22, 2023 did you verify slide action using compressed air ?????? i dunno man, remove all sparkplugs --loosen radiator and swing it forward to access front plugs, then post plug photos here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 She doens't pass this test... but i think this is related with the starter... and have nothing to do with the problem... what do you think? She doesn't pass this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 probe at + and probe at - = continuity in my case, it is on the contrary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89vfrrc24 Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 12 minutes ago, 89vfrrc24 said: probe at + and probe at - = continuity in my case, it is on the contrary... Someone told me that the manual gives the info backwards.... so i guess is fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted February 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2023 Irrelevant test because you're sending power to starter and it spins. Diode provides ground-leg to starter-solenoid. Test and verify entire starter-circuit by measuring for +12v on starter-terminal when you push START-button. IF you have power at starter, then EVERYTHING in chain from battery to power-cable to ignition-switch to kill-switch to start-button to starter-relay to starer-solenoid to power-cable to starter is working properly and don't waste any more time on any of that. Problem lives elsewhere. But you already knew that because starter spins when you push start-button. On 2/14/2023 at 7:40 AM, 89vfrrc24 said: b) during the installation of the starter clutch, I touched the start button and observed a short circuit that i really don't know where and what cause that. You caused some damage here. Did you find it and fix problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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