MAXVFR800 Posted June 4, 2022 Share Posted June 4, 2022 Hello guys and girls,I've been lurking around for a while and now it's that time for the dreadful electrical gremlins question. After spending a few good hours on servicing my beloved silver stallion I went for a short hour ride from Bournemouth to West Bay. Lovely road,good weather except for the rectifier boiling my battery. I realised that just as I got to my destination. I called AA recovery, the mechanic showed up and after a half hour of trying different options we ended up strapping a battery charger on the back of my bike and managed to get back home. The rectifier was unplugged. Will that affect the alternator in any way? Just wondering if I have to buy one as well besides the rectifier. Thank you in advance, Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 4, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2022 Hi Max, welcome to VFRD. With the rectifier unplugged but on a good full battery, you'd indeed be able to ride for a while (lights off). No harm done. Are you handy with a multimeter? Know your Ohms and AC DC? (ANGUS ANGUS ANGUS!!!! ) Then look for "The Drill"here on vfrd. and oh.... how do we know you exist? We'd need a picture of your bike (in the Introduction Section) to be sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 4, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2022 Further to Dutchy's suggestion. The alternator normally runs in a shorted mode, excess power is effectively shunted to ground to maintain an output voltage of around 14v (that's assuming you have a standard shunt type R/R). So there's a good chance the stator has survived the ordeal. There are easy ohmic checks you should do on the three yellow output wires to verify the Alternator Stator is ok. It's all in the Service Manual, you can download the manual from this forum if you don't already have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXVFR800 Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 Thank you for the replies. I think I can manage a multimeter,I'm not a pro electrician but can do basic stuff. As for R/R ,would a TourMax one do the job or should I buy the more expensive MOSFET one? I'm a bit strapped on cash now as I had to pay 160 quid for the recovery (not covered by insurance because I'm a cheap bastard) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted June 4, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2022 Despite the dodgy sounding name (to my ears, anyway) Tour Max is actually a high-quality Japanese aftermarket parts brand. That said, I would not buy another shunt-type reg/rec unless it was a MOSFET. OEM, Shindengen or Tour Max are all high quality. Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted June 4, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2022 As you are in the UK get an Electrex World one. I put one on mine 12 years ago, mosfet & been perfect since. Unfortunately they like everything have got more expensive in last 12 years, now £114 ☹️ https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=vfr800fi&PN=RR881-Regulator-Rectifier-CBR600-VFR800-CB900F-CBR900RR.html#SID=439 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXVFR800 Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 Thank you Mohawk. On their website it's recommended for 2000 on VFRs. Is the 98 compatible with '00 or should I look for a specific model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer stuartb3502 Posted July 23, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2022 You hopefully have this sorted by now. Mohawk's link is for a new design. Electrex are real people at the end of the 'phone in the UK, so I'd suggest it's worth giving them a call to see what they recommend. they still list the one I have on my '99... https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=rr53&PN=RR53.html#SID=439 But it may be the newer model is better if they confirm it works. Worth checking with them if the new one requires changing of connector blocks (it says "on some models"). Sounds like that may be better longer term, but will require crimping and soldering (according to them) which may or may not be a further barrier. The RR53 is a straight swap. I did it a long time ago, but recall it being an easy job. They supplied a metal mounting plate (not now shown in the web listing) with mine and I used some thermal paste. But again, I'm sure they can advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted July 24, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2022 Still having an internal debate over whether to fit one of these to my 5th Gen project bike. Original R/R has only done 9000 miles. 🤨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted July 24, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2022 I did fit a MOSFET R/R on my 1st VFR750F after the oem one barfed after 60,000km. Put a MOSFET on my RC52/SP2 right away after I bought it. Fitted a voltmeter for good measure. On my VF500F2 the volmeter indicated that something was amiss, some 20,000km ago. Fitted a $12 Chinese R/R (shunt type). It is still functioning, despite its location. Inside, right behind the rear cilinder. I have another spare $12 one in the shed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted July 24, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2022 So, Made in the UK or Made in China? 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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