Member Contributer bmart Posted March 16, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 16, 2022 Not sure if this is contributory or not, but... If air was getting in the system, and you checked the level/overflow at that point...then ran the bike, air is likely to end up in the overflow with the fluid going into the semi-sealed system in the bike. Air in the system will also make it run hot. If you get enough air in, the gauge won't read hot (not fluid to read). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trmoyer Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 It’s always a win in my book when a job works out like this! No catastrophes, no broken parts and you didn’t lose and fingers. Yep it’s a win. There will always be someone that’ll come along and say they would replace hoses and clamps but if it works for now then it works. I have a laundry list of wants / needs for my bike. When I get to certain things then I get to them. If it’s not broke or dangerous then don’t fix it, yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer stuartb3502 Posted March 17, 2022 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 17, 2022 12 hours ago, bmart said: Not sure if this is contributory or not, but... If air was getting in the system, and you checked the level/overflow at that point...then ran the bike, air is likely to end up in the overflow with the fluid going into the semi-sealed system in the bike. Air in the system will also make it run hot. If you get enough air in, the gauge won't read hot (not fluid to read). I think I understand and that makes sense. The level dropped from upper to lower first while bike was stored after first round of work in 2019. Apart from starting the bike in the drive then and rechecking level, it wasn’t ridden. I topped it up, only road it about 20 miles for its annual inspection. Noticed level was back at lower shortly after that. I wonder whether I just did a really bad job on the coolant fill last time. Perhaps poured too quickly and got too much air in. I followed the Haynes procedure for burping, but it seemed a bit quick (run for three minutes and blip a couple of times to 4000rpm). Filled very carefully/slowly yesterday and noticed a fair amount of gurgling etc. Running the bike briefly did not drop level, but it had dropped a little (in the filler neck) after an hour or so sitting. It is possible air has been getting in as you say, but there’s been no (or only a single drip) coolant visible on the floor anywhere it’s sat. I can finally ride it now as this is the last job that I know needed doing (I also have a breakdown/recovery policy ;-)), so I guess I’ll find out a lot more soon and will monitor temperature and for leaks very carefully. 12 hours ago, trmoyer said: It’s always a win in my book when a job works out like this! No catastrophes, no broken parts and you didn’t lose and fingers. Yep it’s a win. There will always be someone that’ll come along and say they would replace hoses and clamps but if it works for now then it works. I have a laundry list of wants / needs for my bike. When I get to certain things then I get to them. If it’s not broke or dangerous then don’t fix it, yet. Thanks, tried to document as I could find too much about how to do the job online. Very happy to have any one suggest improvements here since these threads hopefully will help others in future. Thankfully hoses I can see are in good condition (firm but pliable, no cracking or crazing). I know that at some point I’ll need to do a full check of the hoses in the vee. Provided things run normal now, I’ll defer that to a more convenient time. Did start looking at replacement hoses, but they seem to be unobtainium at the moment. As3 kits are all shown as out of stock apart from wax unit hoses (which my bike doesn’t have). Looks like twice the price Samco are available as long as I don’t mind ruining how it looks with red or blue hoses. As far as I know now bike is good to go (famous last words). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trmoyer Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 I want to say there’s a place I’ve seen here a year or so ago that offers silicone hoses and the correct clamps to use with them. The vendor might be in the UK. Edit: sorry, my memory fails me again. Yes it was as3 I was thinking about and see the unavailable note on their site now. Bummer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trmoyer Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 Not my pic or project but a great example for ideas!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer stuartb3502 Posted March 17, 2022 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 17, 2022 Nice, although I’m not very extrovert so tend to go for stock and dull or a subtler change 🙂. I may give as3 a call. Perhaps they can make some to order. Might be worth squirrelling a set away for the future if I can get them. But job for today is to try and diagnose an FI light coming on at low speed and idle 🙂 Bike is running fine (just brilliant going out for a short shakedown today in some early Spring Sunshine) and I think cooling seems ok from the ride today. So need to see if there are any codes and double check charging. So just another niggle which wasn’t there last week. I think the bike’s just trying to keep me busy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 7 hours ago, stuartb3502 said: Might be worth squirrelling a set away for the future if I can get them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 18, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 18, 2022 Re tightening hoses clamps, iff all is clean & smooth, then just enough clamp grip such that you can't turn the hose on the stub its clamped to, that should account for any expansion during heat cycles. Of you do enough spannering you get a feel for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer stuartb3502 Posted March 19, 2022 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 19, 2022 14 hours ago, Mohawk said: Re tightening hoses clamps, iff all is clean & smooth, then just enough clamp grip such that you can't turn the hose on the stub its clamped to, that should account for any expansion during heat cycles. Of you do enough spannering you get a feel for it. Thanks, that’s a really helpful tip for the hose clamps. Although I’ve worked on my various bikes quite a lot, I’ve not done hoses before (or at least not for a long time or enough). I shall redo them based on what you suggest. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted March 26, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted March 26, 2022 On 2/22/2022 at 6:45 PM, Terry said: If you do need a mechanical seal replaced and don't want to shell out for a whole pump, you could contact Happybikes.co.uk and see if they have a seal kit. I purchased a kit for my ST1100 from them a year or two back. The VFR water pump is pretty easy to remove from the engine, once unbolted it just pulls away. Good find. I see they have an eBay shop: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/happybikesshopforfastdelivery?_trksid=p2047675.l2568 Mechanical seal for a VFR is listed, £20, if that's the issue. Ciao, JZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer clwesel Posted June 17, 2022 Member Contributer Share Posted June 17, 2022 Great write-up! I hadn't ridden my 5th gen for the last 3 years COVID, etc.). During the winters of those years, I had a small leak of coolant when the temp got below about 20F. There had been no leakage when the temp was above freezing during those 3 years. Now it was time to get the old girl back on the road and I couldn't tell where the leakage had come from. I decided to flush the system, using Stray's method of the 5 steps. I also tightened each hose about 1/8th turn, that I could reach without removing the tank, etc.. One of hoses, just above the pump looked like it might be leaking just beyond the clamp. I hope this maintenance will be enough to stop my leak. I took it for a shake down an no leaks over night, but I'll probably have to wait until next to see if it still leaks. If anyone else has had this problem, please chime in. I don't relish having to buy a water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trmoyer Posted June 26, 2022 Share Posted June 26, 2022 On 6/17/2022 at 4:37 PM, clwesel said: Great write-up! I hadn't ridden my 5th gen for the last 3 years COVID, etc.). During the winters of those years, I had a small leak of coolant when the temp got below about 20F. There had been no leakage when the temp was above freezing during those 3 years. Now it was time to get the old girl back on the road and I couldn't tell where the leakage had come from. I decided to flush the system, using Stray's method of the 5 steps. I also tightened each hose about 1/8th turn, that I could reach without removing the tank, etc.. One of hoses, just above the pump looked like it might be leaking just beyond the clamp. I hope this maintenance will be enough to stop my leak. I took it for a shake down an no leaks over night, but I'll probably have to wait until next to see if it still leaks. If anyone else has had this problem, please chime in. I don't relish having to buy a water pump. Funny you mentioned a small leak while setting over the winter. I had the same tiny leak on mine two winters in a row, both times it was a connection to the thermostat housing. It didn’t drip this past winter but I still double checked all of the clamps I could get to easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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