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Just fitted a D.I.D chain and JT sprockets 108 link chain, 17 tooth front sprocket, 43 rear sproket. as far as im aware that is the standard for this bike and thats what the shop supplied but the chain is still too slack and is at the end of the adjuster anyone had this issue before or any ideas as to what the problem could be.

Ohlins reinstalled, powdercoated pieces installed worked overnight to reassemble the bike I spent most the night and last night istalling new bearing on the swingarm and beginning the reinstall of all the parts. I installed the swingarm last night and rebuilt Ohlins shock, put the subframe into position and put in the plastic undertray. I had to make some repairs to the undertray since it had alot of holes drilled in it over the years for various parts. I filled them all in and smoothed it out with my pastic welder. Keep the dirt and rain out. My wheels still need shoes! 83° Aluminum Racing Angled Valve Stem Ariete from Kurvygirl.com Different Angle I installed new LED lights in the dash - all from superbriteled.com there is a thread on it in the forum by veefer800canuke I opted for white for a brighter dash and to save on wattage over bulbs. LED Dash Lighting I had to get the correct polarity but they all work by turning a few around. knobs and switches Left Lamp turn off switch, HI LO Double Burn switch, Heated Seat, Heated Grips Powdercoated swingarm Passenger Hanger and footpegs, powelet panel Reoganized accessory wireing moved all the boxes forward and some by the fuse box, moved the accessory fuse box on top of the battery lid, to make more underseat space for tools I rewired the whole accessory area, rerouting the wires to the front of the bike better and added a powerlet on the front and side for my Zumo GPS and the side for my heated vest. Rerouted the autocom wires and moved the autocom forward. Changed the battery leads with less leads and changed the switching power from the plate light to a soldier job from the headlight relay wires, less wires to deal with 3inchs vs 2 feet of switching wire. I wired in LED indicator on the dash for my heated grips its blue on the top right, the top left is the voltmeter from signal dynamics, its red in the dash shot above. I added a heattroller for the heated seat I built, I could never quite it right before using resisters either too hot or not hot enough, now it can dial it in just right. I heated seat is great when I get out of work at 7am and there is frost all over the seat, it clears it off in moments and is comfy in minutes. So far I have done tons of work New Chain New Sprockets New Fork Oil New Fork Seals Rebuilt the Ohlins Shock Powdercoated swingarm, footpegs, rearsets, hub, and passenger hangers Installed new bearings, rubber dampers, and seals in the eccentric hub rewired the accessories added 2 new powerlets repaired plastic damage from a couple of getoffs that resulted in deep scratches, 8 years of roadblast. sanded and sanded and sanded getting ready to paint Primed all the body pieces Sanded off scratches on the Staintune polished and cleaned Repaired a broken header stud replaced and put in new seals on the rear cylinders and headers New Wheels powdercoated installed trick valve stems New bearings on the wheels, swingarm, rearhubs, along with new dustseals New bolts and nuts all over - cleaned up most though Rebuilt the rear brake caliper new seals and polished the pistons, new bolts Bled the rear caliper Bought new graphics for a VFRD inspired paint job - even made my own font to use for the project availible in the site comments forum

I am new to this type of activity so excuse me if I am in the incorrect location to bring up this question. I just purchased a 6th generation VFR800 with 15K and the chain looked to be needing replacement as it was easily outside of the wear indicator and had some tight spots and very loose sections. Installed a new chain and sprockets, all stock no change in gearing, and installed a DID chain. Well, all is together and after tightening the chain to just over the suggested 1 inch play the sprocket is at the very end of the wear indicator. I would have expected it to move up closer to the green range. The chain is the correct length at 110 links and both sprockets where the same size, I placed one on top of the other to ensure that the circumference was the same on both. Any thoughts on what other items I could check? Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you can offer. Note: I currently have the rear wheel off because I am replacing the rear brake pads at the same time, just in case this may play in the fact that the swing arm maybe at a different angle without this additional weight.

Where to start starting with the chain All my parts arrived one by one, the chain and sprocket set first, then the brake pads, fork oil, fork seals, and various other things. I decided to replace the cradle on my Zumo and with it install a bmw style plug in the head tube from Powerlet. They make a vfr kit so I bought it, using the existing molex setup I had before I just solidered the molex wires to the kit and then taped it all up good. I figure I need a disconnect if I want to use the new head stand I bought, I will need to move the wires out to use it. I took a look at my brakes and boy they look good up front, I decided to keep them on since the new ones are not much thicker. I was under the impression that my brakes were in bad shape when I bought the parts, not the case. So I set about removing the front wheel and taking out the forks. Fork service has become easy for me, lots of practice with the dirt bike and my vfr, buddies bikes too I have done it a number of times. My fork oil was dark and dirty as it can get. I removed all the parts and cleaned it up best as I could and then replaced the bushing and slider with new parts, new seals and topped it up with new fork oil. I thought perhaps my forks were a little harsh so I checked the spec with racetech and sure enough I had too much oil in there, I must have used stock oil hieght - I used 120 mm for the gold valve/racetech setup I have. Should be a bit less harsh on the bumps with a larger air pocket. It took me an hour to finish both forks off and anther half an hour reinstalling the front end and torquing it to spec. Country music blasting in the garage cause I cant stand Prarie Home Companion - sombody please tell that guy Garrison Keeler that he cant sing for squat, please stop! Sometimes its funny the skits but I dont agree with the guys point of view - So I changed the station. I never listen to Country music let alone a nationally syndicated program from Nashville but for most the night it was kind of fun easy listening, the longer the night the twangier it got. I got the forks done and decided to make a how-to-video (not yet edited) on chain and sproket replacement. I did not think I had time for the fork service, to stop and go over every step and deal with the camera so I skipped that. Changing sprokets is a messy job. On into the 3am region (I work nights so its old hat for me) I was done by 5am. The garage was a disaster area and grease and grime everywhere. Sounds like an opportunity to change the radiator fluid, I sort of lost my fan switch this summer and so I was boiling off on a trip to New Mexico, I used alot of water to replace the boiled off stuff, I fixed the fan switch but by then I had spit out a good portion of my coolant onto the road. A stop at the grocery store in some small town and a bottle of distilled water topped me back up. Its been super cold lately and so I started it up to see - what if I got too much water in there and not enough antifreeze? I wasnt about to chance it for the rest of the winter, the worst is yet to come! So I changed the antifreeze. I did a great job on it tightended the plug so much that it got easier as I went, so easy in fact that it came right off! Snapped - damn it! I did not have the correct size and my easy out was not getting the broken part out. Good thing I had a bucket handy I just drained off all the coolant, a sort of half ass flush job all over the garage floor. I did manage to get most of it into the bucket. I took the cover off and drilled out the hole and then tapped it with a larger plug, works doesnt leak and it did not snap off this time! ' Much more work to go, need to remove the shock and get it serviced, my old Ohlins has 70k on it now! wow time flies. My plastics are in bad bad shape and my tank is too. In think I need to replace them, I cant paint for shit so I wont even try that! Unless anybody is a painter wizz on the forum? I happen to like red! I could put some VFRD graphics on it! That would be cool eh? Removing the speed sensor Removing the clutch slave cylinder