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Did my preride checkup last night and notices noticed excessive slack on my drive chain. I just changed it less than 1500 km on it. So I'm wondering if I did anything wrong? I can be a little aggressive with acceleration and downshifting but I am not a stunt rider by any means so no wheelies or anything risky. I followed the maintenance guide instructions, adjusted the chain to about an inch and a sixteenth play. I don't thing there is any adjustment for wheel alignment as it is a single arm suspension. So what have I overlooked? 2003 VFR800 and I ordered a low end chain (D.I.D530NZ) because the rivet tool was $300 with the extras. I was hoping to get at least a season out of it. Thanks in advance for your time and assistance.

Just fitted a D.I.D chain and JT sprockets 108 link chain, 17 tooth front sprocket, 43 rear sproket. as far as im aware that is the standard for this bike and thats what the shop supplied but the chain is still too slack and is at the end of the adjuster anyone had this issue before or any ideas as to what the problem could be.

Ohlins reinstalled, powdercoated pieces installed worked overnight to reassemble the bike I spent most the night and last night istalling new bearing on the swingarm and beginning the reinstall of all the parts. I installed the swingarm last night and rebuilt Ohlins shock, put the subframe into position and put in the plastic undertray. I had to make some repairs to the undertray since it had alot of holes drilled in it over the years for various parts. I filled them all in and smoothed it out with my pastic welder. Keep the dirt and rain out. My wheels still need shoes! 83° Aluminum Racing Angled Valve Stem Ariete from Kurvygirl.com Different Angle I installed new LED lights in the dash - all from superbriteled.com there is a thread on it in the forum by veefer800canuke I opted for white for a brighter dash and to save on wattage over bulbs. LED Dash Lighting I had to get the correct polarity but they all work by turning a few around. knobs and switches Left Lamp turn off switch, HI LO Double Burn switch, Heated Seat, Heated Grips Powdercoated swingarm Passenger Hanger and footpegs, powelet panel Reoganized accessory wireing moved all the boxes forward and some by the fuse box, moved the accessory fuse box on top of the battery lid, to make more underseat space for tools I rewired the whole accessory area, rerouting the wires to the front of the bike better and added a powerlet on the front and side for my Zumo GPS and the side for my heated vest. Rerouted the autocom wires and moved the autocom forward. Changed the battery leads with less leads and changed the switching power from the plate light to a soldier job from the headlight relay wires, less wires to deal with 3inchs vs 2 feet of switching wire. I wired in LED indicator on the dash for my heated grips its blue on the top right, the top left is the voltmeter from signal dynamics, its red in the dash shot above. I added a heattroller for the heated seat I built, I could never quite it right before using resisters either too hot or not hot enough, now it can dial it in just right. I heated seat is great when I get out of work at 7am and there is frost all over the seat, it clears it off in moments and is comfy in minutes. So far I have done tons of work New Chain New Sprockets New Fork Oil New Fork Seals Rebuilt the Ohlins Shock Powdercoated swingarm, footpegs, rearsets, hub, and passenger hangers Installed new bearings, rubber dampers, and seals in the eccentric hub rewired the accessories added 2 new powerlets repaired plastic damage from a couple of getoffs that resulted in deep scratches, 8 years of roadblast. sanded and sanded and sanded getting ready to paint Primed all the body pieces Sanded off scratches on the Staintune polished and cleaned Repaired a broken header stud replaced and put in new seals on the rear cylinders and headers New Wheels powdercoated installed trick valve stems New bearings on the wheels, swingarm, rearhubs, along with new dustseals New bolts and nuts all over - cleaned up most though Rebuilt the rear brake caliper new seals and polished the pistons, new bolts Bled the rear caliper Bought new graphics for a VFRD inspired paint job - even made my own font to use for the project availible in the site comments forum

I've been a reaaaaallllyyyy long time infrequent lurker. I bought my 1996 in 2005(and joined VFRD), rode her for a while and had a few issues that I was going to get to. Well, I never got to it. Life always seemed to get in the way. Here I am now though, in need of some direction from you more experienced folks. There are a number of things that need replacement, most of which from sitting so long, and I'm curious as to the best place to get them. One of the main issues are the right side fairings, the lower black and red right above it. From what I remember, no one makes them anymore, OEM or aftermarket, and you have to find them used? Anyone have them here? The other bigger issue is the starter is toast. I see a huge price disparity between aftermarket and OEM. Aftermarket is about $100 vs $400 for Honda. Why such a big difference? Does anyone have experience with aftermarket starters? The list of stuff I need is probably fairly common, with maybe the exception of the throttle tube. I haven't found it on a parts breakdown. But any recommendations for the following items would be appreciated - Chain Fork Seals Brake pads front and rear Is there a caliper rebuild kit? Air Filter As is usually the case, budget is a bit of an issue, and I'd rather not spend so much on the starter, which I hadn't expected to have to replace with this project. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

I noticed this morning my bike was running strange. I could feel what seemed like a strain in the engine, in the foot pegs, especially when I decelerated in gear. The top part of the chain looks very black, and the bottom part looks light tan - see the attached picture. Not sure what this is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I am new to this type of activity so excuse me if I am in the incorrect location to bring up this question. I just purchased a 6th generation VFR800 with 15K and the chain looked to be needing replacement as it was easily outside of the wear indicator and had some tight spots and very loose sections. Installed a new chain and sprockets, all stock no change in gearing, and installed a DID chain. Well, all is together and after tightening the chain to just over the suggested 1 inch play the sprocket is at the very end of the wear indicator. I would have expected it to move up closer to the green range. The chain is the correct length at 110 links and both sprockets where the same size, I placed one on top of the other to ensure that the circumference was the same on both. Any thoughts on what other items I could check? Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you can offer. Note: I currently have the rear wheel off because I am replacing the rear brake pads at the same time, just in case this may play in the fact that the swing arm maybe at a different angle without this additional weight.

Received my 520 conversion kit from sprocket Center yestrday, and installed it. Went with a 17/45, I already had that combo on a 530. Short ride today and I'm very happy.

Last week I did a pre ride check and noticed my chain hung down and TOUCHED the center stand (while the bike was on the sidestand). I was happy I caught this, and immediately tightened the chain and went riding. No issues, and the ride felt great, maybe the chain was too loose before? This week, was cleaning and lubing the chain, and noticed the previous tension was gone again. The chain wasn't touching the center stand, but was hanging lower towards it. Had a ton of slack as well - this all being measured when it was on the center stand. The chain itself probably has about 5-6K on it, I don't ride it too often and I've had this bike for about 4 years now. I park the bike always on the center stand. Could this be from chain age, or is the tensioner going bad?

Hi, I just had the dealer install a new chain and sprockets on my 6th gen. The sprockets are Honda, and the chain is DID VX 530 Pro-Street. I've ridden the bike for the past 40,000 miles and now I have a constant clicking. I know I need to take it back, but any suggestions that I can use to direct them?

Hello, I was wondering if someone has a chain adjustment tool for setting the correct chain slack. Looking to borrow it for a quick adjustment on my new chain. Or perhaps you know of an alternative tool to use? My bike didn't come with one and I'm trying to button her up today. New tool won't be in until Wednesday ? Thanks, Miles

I need some help. I have read all the blogs, posts and articles on chains for the VFR. I understand all the basics of adjusting a chain and have done it many times. Here is my problem..... I have a 2002 VFR800 and I am chewing through chains at an unprecedented rate. Last year I changed out my sprockets and chain for new ones. The rear sprocket didn't quite fit right but I thought I had it on and aligned well. Within 300 miles the chain broke (on the freeway). Cracked the case cover and damaged the chain guard. I replaced all the bad part, new chain (but made the mistake of keeping the sprockets. At the time I didn't realize it was the rear sprocket that was the problem). Broke the next chain in about 300 miles again (again, on the freeway). This time it didn't hit the side case cover so the repair was a bit cheaper. BUT I did change the sprockets and put on a new chain. Since that time I have not been able to get a chain to go more than 200 miles without being adjusted (its dragging on the center stand already). I make the adjustment and within 200 miles its dragging again. One my 2nd chain with this same adjustment pattern. This last chain swap included new DID X-Ring chain and JT sprockets (came as a kit from BikeBandit @ $170) Not sure what is going on. If someone has some advanced help they can offer I sure would appreciate it. I am thinking it may be the drive shaft (where the front sprocket attaches to) is bent/damaged or the rear axle is somehow out of alignment or needs bearing? I am tired of burning through $170 every 800 miles.

I have a 2002 VFR without ABS, it has 60k and I use it daily for commuting to work. About 1,000 miles ago I changed the chain and sprockets. Within about 700 miles I broke the chain while riding home from work. It broke the case cover but with about $50 in parts from eBay I fixed it. The sprockets looked brand new so I bought another o-ring chain and put it on the existing sprockets. Chain broke again within about 700 miles. Not as much damage this time. I bought a new set of sprockets and a new chain and just installed them. My concern is 2-fold: 1) The rear suspension has not been touched since the bike was new. It feels like the bike is sitting "lower" and it "hits hard" over bumps. I am concerned the suspension is so low that the chain slack is being taken up and causing it to break. 2) I thought maybe I installed the front sprocket backwards. When I pulled it apart the spacing on the front and back of the front sprocket is the same (impossible to install it backward from what I can tell). It is a JT and I put the logo facing out (away from the trans). The back sprocket is "indented" meaning it has an undercut section around the ring. The first two times I placed the indent facing out (away from the hub) with the stampings (the part number) also facing out. This time I turned it around and faced the indent "In" toward the hub. The chains are all DID gold chains with O-rings. I have changed chains MANY times before so I don't think I am missing anything in the process. But to be sure I have watched all the YouTube videos I could find just to make sure. Nothing jumped out at me. Has anyone experienced 2 broken chains back-to-back like this before? Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated.

Hi I wounder if someone has good or bad to say about DC Chain/Sprocket kits The webshop say they come whit either a DC brand X-ring chain and Afam or Esjot sprocket OR a Did VM x-ring chain and Sunstar sprockets. They cant tell witch you will get, depends on whats in stock.....the price is ok thro, 129€ a set I have only experience from JT sprockets, that have been good in my option. Mostly used Did or RK chain so far. Thanks for you opinion so far!

Whats up fellas, I decided it was time to swap out my chain and sprockets so I gave it a go, and I was surprised how smooth it went until I hit one snag...I forgot to measure the diameter of the rivet on my DID chain before I started, so I don't know if I've mushroomed the rivet enough on the master link. I've attached a pic of what they look like, they look good to me - and the other rivets on the chain are 5.7mm; both of mine are right at 5.8mm. I'm guessing they are OK, but I didn't know if it was different for a master link. Any info is greatly appreciated! I've been wearing google out for answers and can't seem to find the right one.

Hello all, I live in Agoura Hills, just outside of LA. I am going to change out my chain and sprockets. I am hoping someone in the Greater LA area has the chain breaker and rivet tool that I can borrow. I can come to your place and do the work or gather the tools and return them. I am in no real hurry to do the change, I just discovered a few "red" links, however the chain has 25,000-ish mile on so... Please let me know. David Riebel, PACIFICMAN 805-279-5770 riebelnet@aol.com

So I have read through the 23 pages of discussions searching for the ultimate answer to the sprocket and chain issue...think I might be more confused...seems to be a six in one, half dozen in the other situation. I need a new chain on my new to me 99 5th gen that is now at 41300 km. There seems to be an on going debate on new sprockets with new chain...some say every time others say not needed. I am guessing these may be original as I can not find the pinned master link in the chain (which has an 50 RHF stamped on the side plate). So I am looking at new chain and sprockets..decided from all of the forms here that Honda OEM front with the added rubber is best with Sunstar steel rear as I read they are the OEM (only like Y cheaper as an aftermarket purchase than from Honda). I am struggling with the arguments of the new metalology and the 520 vs the original 530. I believe the new metal in the 520 today has a higher tensile strength than the 530 had when she came out of the plant yet this seemed to be an interesting read in the older posts. Stay stock gear 17/43 or do the common mod of 16/45? I don't think I can legally use the 200+kmh here in Canada so loosing a little top end speed will not be an issue. Curious to know of those that have switched to the 16/45 if they saw much of any, or any change on fuel mileage? Has the group come to a consensus on 520 vs 530 (I am looking at DID zvmx)? Stock or popular -1/+2 sprocket? Any change in fuel consumption?...mostly commuting to work know (looking for the road less straight) but in the summer I would go 250-300 km rides just because the day ended in "y". Thoughts.....

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/tools-maintenance/afam-chain-press-rivet-tool.html The price is right and I don't need a tool to cut off the old chain so this would work for me. I have a high opinion of Sprocket Center and don't think they would carry an inferior tool but wanted to see if anyone had a comment on this tool.

Hey everyone! So my 6th gen VFR recently developed this noise when decelerating, being a noob in mechanics I turned to Google, and one of the first things to look at was the chain slack. Sure enough, my chain was quite a bit loose... Like hitting-the-center-stand loose I adjusted it so that it just touches the bottom of the swingarm, then as I was spinning the rear wheel I noticed there was this tight spot where the chain was getting so tight the wheel was quite difficult to turn by hand. I remembered I read somewhere the chain should be adjusted in a tight spot if there is one. So I readjusted it accordingly. The bike itself is in good shape... the chain not so much. (I just had to show you that I do not abuse my bike, it's not in the same condition as the chain haha) Now I have to warn you, the images are graphic. Hide your children! The chain has never seen any babying. In fact, it hasn't seen any cleaning products, period :D in its 34K+ km that's just over 21K miles. I never really cared about the chain looks. Plus good luck trying to keep it clean when you commute daily year round in Raincouver, British Columbia :D rain or shine or salted roads. Lubing - yes, I was actually quite good with it until the last few months, not sure what happened. Time kind of ran away from me I guess. So the chain is of this wonderful orange colour now So anyway, looks like the chain is not at the replacement point yet according to the wear indicator (see photo). However, (see video below the photo) when I put the bike in 1st the chain is not rotating evenly. Is it because it is just rusty and basically ruined by now? I do not really mind replacing the chain and sprockets every three years / 20K+ miles, but do I need to replace it at this point? Or is it OK? Look at the axle nut cap @ 0:37 it's doing figure 8s Thank you for all the replies! Yes, even the ones giving me crap for doing this to the chain http://youtu.be/nT8ySBwhY_k

I have a 2003 VFR I bought 5 weeks ago. I've put 2500 miles on it in that time. Great bike. Here is my question. The bike does not have the riveted master link, instead a standard clip style link. The chain/sprockets appear to have some wear but still have many miles left on them. What is the conventional wisdom to running a clip type master link vs. the riveted one. Have people had failures with the clip style? I've had no problems in the miles I've ridden. Some of it spirited riding, but certainly not race track type demanding. Just wondering.

My 1990 VFR750F is going to need chain and sprokets soon. The side plates on the chain say DID 50VA. What size is that? 520, 525, 530,535??? I'm assuming the sprokets are stock ratio. At the risk of starting a chain/sproket war, what's the best bang for the buck? Thanks, Jeff PLease make that sprocket.................