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Showing results for tags 'stator'.
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How many 6th gen owners have had to replace your stators?
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Hello all, this is my first post on this forum ever. I have a few concerns about my 2006 VFR800. First of all, I bought it used at 44,000, it has racked up to 62,000 in a year. Do standard maintenance and all to it. The first thing is the first gear engine squeal. Is this normal? Is this an indicator of being in first gear? Second thing, before my first battery died out which was still OEM, I heard these secondary squealing noises from all gears above first at all RPMs. I could not trace this problem to anything. Now for the real question, the first time the battery died it seemed as though it all happened suddenly in a day. No hiccups at all until I stopped at a gas station to fill it up. Then it refused to start at all, but luckily people are saints and pushed me to jump start it. After reading all causes, I switched out the battery for a Shorai 18 amp variant, replaced the R/R with Rick's, swapped all lights for HID LEDs. It died again today after the replacement of about a week of riding. I have not checked the stator, fuses, all wirings to ground, dash, harnesses, or other leaks. I am trying to narrow down possibilities to save time and even money, this seems like a specific piece of equipment that burned out, hoping you guys can help pinpoint the dilemma. Thanks in advance. Greg
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I have a 2004 vfr800. I had issues with the r/r. I put a new OEM one on it along with a new battery . Now it just turns over but wont start. If my stator is burnt, would it cause a no spark condition? I thought maybe my ecu was fried. I bought a new one and it still wont start. Any help would be highly appreciated.
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I replaced the original OEM regulator/rectifier [r/r] on my 2001 5th gen with a Shindengen SH847 series-style r/r from roadstercycle.com. There were no problems evident with my elecrical system, but with 48,595 miles on my old[ish] VFR, I might be on borrowed time with the all-original wiring, stator and r/r. I read through the pinned threads on the vfrd electrical forum: 'stator tests', 'electrical upgrade', and 'tips and tricks' - thanks to everyone who contributed their advice and experiences to these informative threads. Thanks to Duc2V4 for his guidance and for introducing me to roadstercycle.com and introducing me to Jack, the craftsman behind the roadstercycle website. Special thanks to Jack for his excellent suggestions, products, service, and for showing me his amazing shop and machines. Readings before beginning project: 12.9v on the battery with ignition switch off 0.8-0.9ohms across all three stator legs when disconnected from r/r [my meter reads 0.6ohms when I short the two probes together] No continuity from any stator leg to ground 19-20v on all three stator legs at 1200rpm idle [engine temp 174F] 61-63v on all three stator legs at 5000rpm I neglected to check battery voltages with engine running before I began I used this nifty $20 voltmeter [It also has two USB charging ports] from ebay for continuous battery voltage display - plugged it into my always-on steering stem power outlet. I compared it to my multi-meter, and they displayed the same voltages: Here is the original OEM r/r with leads disconnected: The connectors on the cables coming from the stock r/r didn't look bad, though the connector on the stator wires was a bit discolored: The series-type SH847 is $50.00 more than the popular mosfet SH020AA, but operates on demand instead of constantly, runs even cooler than mosfet, and has a 50 amp capacity. I went with it because I've been doing track days and don't want to challenge the r/r if I have to unplug the lights before taping them over [the headlights melt through polyethylene tape if you leave them on after you tape them over - ask me how I know]. The SH847 connectors are built onto the r/r. Roadstercycle sells the SH847 as a kit and makes up the connectors/cables for the battery and stator leads from 10 gauge marine grade wire: The SH847 is a physically larger unit - here it is next to the stock r/r: Before purchasing, I made an actual size mockup and taped it in place to test fit it under the rear cowl in the stock r/r location. It would have efficient cable routing and clear the cowl and passenger rear set assembly if oriented with the connectors facing forward, which would mean the cooling fins would be perpendicular to airflow as I perceived it. Jack said the series-type and mosfet Shindengen r/r's don't care about airflow direction: After visiting roadstercycle.com, receiving an education and a tour from Jack, then picking up r/r kits for my bike and for member Hammerdrill's 's 6th gen, I fit the SH847 in place, mapped out its location, and marked where to drill the top mounting hole [Yes, I cleaned up the hole with a rat tail file after drilling]: This left the new r/r's bottom mounting hole just below the bottom rail of the subframe. I hate mixing SAE and metric fasteners [I never know if I'll remember the right size tools later], but my best mounting solution was the threaded endpiece of this 1/4-20 draw bolt. I used the threaded piece to grab the subframe from underneath by threading it onto a bolt running through the r/r's bottom mounting hole: I cut a 1/4-20 flange bolt short enough that it wouldn't grind into the plastic fender behind the subframe, cut the bottom rear corner off the threaded draw bolt piece so it could clear the fender when pivoted up to grab the subframe securely, then loctited the threads and cinched it all up with stainless washers between the mounting bolts and the r/r: Roadstercycle's kit comes with finished battery cables. I asked for 11" battery cables, but Jack wisely recommended 12" lengths. I'm glad he did, because they fit like this [The nearest black and red cables in this photo are the leads from the new r/r and the red fixture on the left with two bumps on it is the 30amp circuit breaker that Jack builds into the kit]: Per the instructions, I taped off the now unused connector that ran from the wire harness to the old r/r and fastened it out of the way: The kit comes with 18" stator cables, solder-on sleeves, and crimp connectors - you choose whichever connector you prefer. I cut the stator cables to length using cable cutters. I like actual cable cutters for stranded cable because they capture the strands and compress them together so the strands don't get crushed and spread apart between the two blades of regular wire cutters or dikes. Next was to solder on the sleeves, followed by completely forgetting to take photos of the cables in my solder jig, but there's not much there to imagine. Roadstercycle has a good video on how to solder connectors. Just before heating the last piece of shrinkwrap onto the last finished stator connection, I remembered to take a photo: That's it. My final electrical readings are all the same - I didn't change out the stator or battery. I finally took battery readings with the engine running and got 13.3v at 1200rpm idle, 14.5v at 5000rpm.
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Ok so if not really sure what's up with my luck, but it's pretty bad. I'll give you the run down in the order it all happened. Had electrical problems when I first got the bike, flickering lights, and generally bad behavior. So I replaced the RR with a "OE" I got off eBay and put in the vfrness, problem solved. I took the bike to the track, RR caught fire and took the vfrness plug with it. I replaced the plug and RR with Rick's electrical RR. Problem solved. Couple of weeks later the battery just keeps dying on me over and over and it just can't seem to hold a charge, figure the RR nightmare may have cooked the battery. So I replace it, Problem not solved. So I look around and find the pins in the RR plug are loose so I mess with them but the plug is trash so I replace it. Still doesn't fix it. The bike will charge cold, but once it gets hot it stops charging. Heat soaked stator, replaced that bitch. Seemed to be charging fine so I went for a ride, 10 miles in I have a dead battery. Seconds before rolling my bike off a cliff I decided to throw on the OE RR i originally took off the bike for shits and giggles. Jump started it, rode it home, battery at 12.9 volts, problem solved. 50 miles later, I have a dead battery once again. Are both the RRs I have toast? Am I being haunted by some electrical phantom, should I try another new RR? At this point I'm ready to just give it to some kid walking down the street... Thanks for listening, if you have any advice I'll take it. Miles
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I’m having a lot of problems with my charging system on my 2002 VFR800 lately, and after running the diagnostics, (and replacing other parts) it looks like I need a new stator. Honda’s part catalogue, lists a stator with part number 31120-MCW-D01 for the 2002 VFR800. (I even used the VIN of my bike to find the correct part number). This stator has an external diameter of 114 mm, an internal diameter of 40 mm and the center of the stator (where it is screwed onto the engine cover) has a thickness of 20mm. However, if I measure the Stator that I have removed from my 2002 VFR800, I have a part with an external diameter of 108 mm. The internal diameter is the same with 40 mm, but the center of the stator has a thickness of 25mm. Does anyone here have any idea what kind of stator I might need? Are there any other part numbers for a 2002 Stator? Could it be that, even though I have a 2002 model, it is fitted with a 2001 Stator? Just guessing here…
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Hey Guys, I'm hoping to order the necessary parts to fix my bike shortly, but figured I might consult those with more experience first as this is the first electrical issue I have truly attempted to troubleshoot. I have tried to narrow things down from the numerous other threads posted relating to the issue, but additional input would be great. My bike is a new to me (2 months) 2003 VFR800 with a PC3 and Two Bros exhaust with 25k miles. The harness recall has been done by the previous owner. I rode the bike nearly every day roughly 50 miles round trip for about the past two months, but last week it would barely start on the way to work. Upon leaving to go home at the end of the day, it was dead. I got a jump from a co-worker (car off) and proceeded to hurry home. It died on me 3 separate times, but fortunately I was moving fast enough to bump start each time. The fist time it died, I had only been riding about 5 minutes. If I kept the RPM's up, it seemed to run decently. I proceeded to charge the battery on a tender and test it. Right after pulling it off the bike, it was at 10.26V. By morning it seemed ok as it charged up to 13.1V and when reconnecting the tender, would jump up to 14.4V before settling back down to 13.1V. After leaving it unplugged all day, it dropped to about 12.96V and held steady there for the rest of the night. I had it tested by a local auto parts store and they confirmed it was fully charged and seemed to be in good health. I started to go through "The Drill" and first suspected the stator. The resistance between all the phases was consistent at 0.7 ohm's and they all had no continuity when each was tested to ground, so that seems to check out. I then checked each phase's AC voltage and got 19-20 at idle for each one and then around 60 when revved to 5k or so. So that test seemed to indicate thestator was ok as well. I then began to suspect the R/R and moved to check the voltage of the battery. At rest with the key off, it read 12.91V. With the key on, it dropped to around 12.3V, and after starting the bike and letting it idle, it would hang around 12.2V. When I would rev the bike, the voltage would drop across the terminals. At 4k rpm's, I read 12.16V. This would indicate a R/R issue correct? I know you can check the diodes to be certain, but the fact that the voltage at idle is lower than what it should be (14V ish) and with the stator seeming to check out, this would lead me to think it's the R/R. However, as many indicate the problem is much less of an issue with the 6th gens compared to the 5th, I thought I'd double check. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks
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I have a weird charging issue. 95 VFR, bike dies suddenly at lights and doesn't start up randomly. Found the plug from the stator to the reg/rect was fried. (I have a Ricks reg/rect.) so I replaced the whole harness with the VFRNESS from wiremybike. Bike ran for a few days but then wouldn't start, had to push start to get it home. This has happened before the vfrness as well. so I thought maybe it's the battery and I replaced it last week. The very next morning out it dies on me on the Brooklyn bridge half hour in to the ride. Pulled the stator, looks okay to me, but wanted to get ya'll expert opinion. I don't know what's wrong, or what to replace. replaced the harness, replaced battery, replaced reg/rect, stator looks okay. when I put the voltage meter to the battery it goes up to about 13.8v at 4-5k rpm. so It does get juice when it's running. I wonder if at some point it stops getting juice?!?! Got a battery voltmeter I haven't put on yet just to see if it drops at some point, BUT PLEASE ANY HELP IS WELCOME. I have no clue what to check..
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I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust. My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life. Plus another $1k for the good folks at DMR for suspension upgrades. it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts. The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay) Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k on unleashing the engine, plus another $1k at DMr for beefing up the suspension for the added power. (Everything is ordered and on the way) 1. $400- Corbin Seat 2. $150- ECU (Germany) 3. $ 20- OEM Air Box 4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter 5. $500- Staintune (Australia) 6. $350- SS Headers (UK) 7. $300-Power Commander 8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator 9. $120- HealTech Gear Red 10. $160- RDMOTO shorty 11. $595- DMr fork kit 12. $420- DMr CBR shock 13. $350- Clutch Porthole 14. $350- Stator / Rectifier 15. $200- Barnett Clutch Kit First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. Next steps: 1) Remove headers & exhaust 2) Install catless full system 3) Remove ECU 4) Install Euro Spec ECU 5) Install gear indicator 6) Install Power Commamder 7) Load Fuel Map file Start bike..... 8) Install DMr fork kit 9) Install DMr CBR shock Go for test ride.... 10) Install Barnett Clutch 11) Install Thurn Motorsport clutch case window 12) Install Thurn upgraded Stator, with Rectifier relocation mount kit. 13) Install Thurn Rear Hub Cover 15) Install RDMOTO short reach clutch and brake levers. IMG_4171.MOV Nov 5 Update: Now that the headers are installed, the double snorkel (no flapper)air box mod with a fresh K & N filter and adding 3oz Lucus octane boost every fill up. Still waiting on Euro ECU to show up before I do any new fuel mappings. DMr suspension kit has shipped. Also waiting on 2nd engine clutch cover. First job is to switch out the stator with a $50- el cheapie china stator so I can get my OEM over to Gerhard, along with the engine case clutch cover. As far as riding the bike all week, its starting to really open up ?? IMG_4198.MOV IMG_4213.MOV
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Hey guys, long time lurker but finally had a reason to signup/post. I've had my 98 since she was 5 so I'm quite familiar with all the usual VRR woes. I've gone through 3 of them, now about to put in a 4th. My stator checks out on resistance, no ground, and voltage at idle and 5k but I was curious to visually check out the stator as I haven't done that in all the 73k miles on it. So I opened it up and have attached a pic. My question is, should I replace it? It doesn't look FRIED per se, but it sure doesn't look spic and span. My tentative plan is to replace the stator and VRR (and solder the connections) with Rick's versions and throw in a VFRness too if that seems beneficial. Anything to not have to do this again.
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I have a question about the VFRness instal, and would like opinions on the state of this stator I just replaced. According to the instructions the extra red wire goes to the starter relay. Just to make sure I have it right is this the wire (front right red wire)? (I do have the replacement plug kit) Not sure if I will just remove and replace the red wire or do a full replace of the starter relay plug with the replacement kit.. probably the latter. Below is a picture of the stator I removed (on the left). It is the original stator and had over 50k miles on it. What is your opinion of it's condition? I replaced it with a Rick's stator of course. Thanks for the feedback in advance!
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I connected a phone charger to my bike one day and I've been having intermittent charging problems ever since. After a good ride the battery will be dead & I have to bump start it. It always starts right up too. I load tested the battery, that's OK I went by the shop manual & the alternator, regulator rectifier (aftermarket unit) & stator seem OK, but I'm no mechanic. I just had it checked by a local shop too & they said everything was OK. I went for a short 20 minute ride & the battery was dead again! I plan on riding to the MotoGP at Indy next month. HELP!! Bobbyn
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My bike left me stranded, 2004 with 22K on it. Was riding, shut if off to get gas, then turned the key on and the dash never appeared - clock was still there so I know there's battery power. Towed it home, went to start it several hours later, and was messing around and it started! Then it wouldn't restart. Here are the details - I have the VFRness - battery is in good shape, 12.86volts off. - when the bike is off, 12.86 volts flow to the two 20 amp VFRness fuses (measured by removing the fuses) - both fuses had some burning look to them (attached) --- replaced the fuses and it still did not turn on for a while - started after that off chance try, but would not turn back on. I did have a change while riding today in that my phone was hooked up to the batter with this battery tender attachment, but since I see voltage at the battery I'm not sure it toasted it. I am thinking it is a faulty connection, but I am not sure where to start looking. Are there common failure points I should be aware of?
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I'm usually not too bad with electronics (I've had to learn), but this one has me stumped. A 2002 with 70k miles, new to me, a FZ-1 fuseblock with only the on board voltmeter connected. Now the stats: VDC at idle: 13.4V VDC at 5k: 13.0V I suspected either the stator or the RR. So I inspect the stator: Ohms between pins: 0.2-0.3 on all three Ohms to ground: no continuity VAC at idle: 25ishV between all three VAC at 5k: 80-90V between all three In the interest of full disclosure, I was never able to test the RR successfully on my 3rd gen. But the stator seems good except for the VAC at 5k. But the manual says nothing about VAC, so I don't know if this is in the upper range of OK, or not. And I would think if the RR is ok, then too much VAC should give me too much VDC. Input? Opinions? Am I right, wrong?
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Hi all! I just acquired a 2004 VFR800 (non ABS) with 29,000 miles on it. All was well for about 200 miles, and then it died. The person riding in front of me said that the headlights started getting dimmer and dimmer and then went out just shortly before I lost power. I got the bike home (fortunately only ~70 miles from home), and started diagnosing. The PO was not sure whether the RR or stator has ever been replaced. The battery was replaced in the past year or two with a Battery Tender Lithium Ion battery. The battery was dead, so I charged that. When I started testing, it was sitting at 13.14V. Checked again this morning, and it's sitting at 13.13V so the battery seems to be OK. I tested everything and concluded that I had zero charging going on but it seems like the stator is OK(?). In the process of testing, I found that the connections between the stator and RR had overheated and were likely non-conductive. The char looks recent so I suspect they melted/charred during my ride. I rewired the connectors and tested again. Results: First test (before rewiring, with low beams on): IGN Bike Measured Reading OFF OFF BAT - + 13.14V ON OFF BAT - + 12.78V ON IDLE BAT - + 13.00V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 12.50V (falling) Stator tests: Impedance between phases: AB ~1ohm, AC ~1ohm, BC ~.9ohm Impedance to ground: A->G infinte, B->G infinite, C->G infinite AC Voltage: IDLE AB 24.2 AC 24.5 BC 23.9 5K AB 64.5 AC 64.5 BC 65 After replacing yellow stator connections (low beams on): ON IDLE BAT - + 13.20V (rising) ON 2500RPM BAT - + 13.45V (rising) ON 5000RPM BAT - + 13.58V (rising) A few notes: For the impedance tests, the ohmmeter that I am using is not close to instantaneous. When I put the leads directly against one another it rapidly declines from 200ohm to 5 then 3 then 2 then 1.5 then 1.4 then 1.3 and so on. With each downward tick it takes longer (from 200-1.5 takes a second or two, then it takes a few seconds from 1.5 to 1.0, and then approximately ten seconds per 0.1 tick beyond that. I suspect that the stator impedances are lower than 1.0 or 0.9, but I either need a new meter or to be dramatically more patient waiting for it to settle. For the "rising" and "falling" statements, once the voltmeter settled on a voltage (which is fairly instantaneous), I am stating that the voltage is slowly ticking upward or downward. Over the course of 30 seconds at a particular RPM, I would se a rise or fall of approximately 0.15-0.50 volts. There are no electrical accessories on the bike. After fixing the stator->RR connections, when I ran the 5k RPM voltage test I saw the 30A fuse wire start smoking and it was quite hot to the touch. All of that leads me to some questions: Is there anything about a lithium ion battery that would result in me not seeing a higher voltage across the terminals? I've never dealt with a lithium ion battery in a car/bike before so want to make sure that I should expect the same testing behavior as I would a conventional battery. At this point I am planning to rewire the bike (mirroring a VFRness) or order a VFRness and install that. Also, following my tests, I'm going to rewire my crimp connectors (stator<-->RR) with soldered connections. Should I go ahead and order a RR at this point too or do my results seem potentially within the realm of "normal" for overheated/deteriorated wiring? Should I get the wiring squared away, test again, and then decide whether to acquire an RR? In general are the failures frequent enough that I should just keep a spare RR on hand (or on the bike when I'm on trips)? Is there an expected lifespan for a Honda OEM RR? Does 29k miles make it "due" for replacement? Am I way off base on anything I've said that I need to be corrected on? Thank you in advance!
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In the midst of my Colorado tour a couple weeks ago my '09 VFR's battery died. This was atop Grand Mesa about halfway between Grand Junction and Delta, an hour away from either. Luckily it bump-started and got me to Delta and our motel for the night. We found a local shop, Fast Repair, and the battery measured 12.0 volts engine off, and about 12.7 running. The three phase plug from the stator measured ~40 vac on two coils but only ~16 on the third. In retrospect the stator was the obvious fault but throwing parts at a problem when you're 1,000 miles from home gets expensive. So I disconnected the wiring for my electric vest and grip heaters, and also pulled the headlight fuse. Since the bike had run fine on a flat battery for 80 km, I figured a new battery might let me finish the trip. The recharged original added some peace of mind. If worse came to worse I'd rent a truck and haul it home. There was no trouble on the next three days, but on the fourth it died again so I swapped batteries at the next gas stop. The next day I bought a small charger & multimeter and that was enough to get me home. Today I picked it up after my dear installed a shiny new stator. Not a cheap fix but one of the few hard faults I've had over the past 25 years.
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I know there are countless threads about this but I find it overwhelming & I'm too bummed out to read all the info that a search would bring up. So I'm hoping you'll help me. My bikes charging system has gradually been getting weak. I did all the tests yesterday. The DC voltages are all too low but the AC volts and the other stator tests are ok. The yellow stator wires get very hot on both sides of the connector. I replaced the infamous R/R 7 years ago (about 2k miles) with a Honda brand one from the dealer. P/N 316-MBG-305. SH689DA is stamped on it. (Would that be a shunt type?) I also installed a VFRness & replaced the battery then & 4 times over the years since then including 3 months ago. I'm also overwhelmed with all the different types of R/R's & places to buy them. So, which type of R/R should I get & where from? And should I also replace the stator? TIA
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Colorado 2015 Seven guys, seven states, three ferries, cold & hot, wet & dry, sea level to 14,000 feet and back, in 13 days and 6300 km. The late June afternoon view of the valley below and Chalk Mountain in the distance was quite lovely. Perhaps the biggest flat-topped mountain in the world, Grand Mesa is nearly 2 miles above sea level. Less dramatic than at Colorado National Monument this morning, but elevation and a high overcast tempered the fierce summer sun. It was a perfect day, I thought while stowing my camera. Until I discovered my 2009 VFR800’s battery had died. In 20 years of bikes trips I’ve never had a mechanical, not even had a flat tire - knock on wood. Sure, I’ve run out of gas a couple of times. But that’s an own-goal and not a fault of the bike. Tried bump-starting worked - woohoo!, the VFR fired up. But with a duff battery for how long? - it was 70 km to Delta. I worried it would die at any moment but rolled into our motel an hour later. The battery measured12.0 vdc engine off, 12.8 at 5k rpm. At 6 years old it became the prime suspect. A local independent shop, Fast Repair, had a battery and owner Allen stayed open till I arrived - after another bump start. Two of the stator coils at 45 vac but third only ~16. Both new and original batteries were put on charge overnight. Was it the battery, reg/rec, or stator? Hmm, troubleshooting is trickier a thousand miles from home. Next morning we fitted the new battery and wrapped the old in a cloth & zip lock bag as a backup. I pulled the headlight fuse and disconnected the wiring for my heated grips and e-vest. If my VFR gave any more trouble I’d rent a truck and haul it home. By 9 am we were heading for Colorado Springs. Day 1 Six days earlier we’d met at the Coho ferry terminal at 5 am(!) bound for Port Angeles, Wa. for a 2 week trip to Colorado. Later in the morning another ferry took us across Puget Sound to Seattle, and the freeway to Pendleton, Ore. Thankfully, it’ll be the last freeway for at least a week. A tasty dinner was had at Prodigal Son pub. Day2 SR-204 and SR-82 were nice back roads through farm & forest on the way to breakfast at the Red Rooster in Enterprise, Ore. Wallowa Mtn road is a narrow, bumpy ride through forest with 15 miles of gravel at the south end. And most of us missed the spur to the overlook of Hell’s Canyon. So, all in all, not worth the effort. SR-71 was good fun before heading up US-95 to McCall, a resort town on the shore of Payette Lake for the night. Dinner on McCall Brewing Company’s upstairs deck was enhanced with a view of the sun setting over the lake. Day 3 A cool morning ride down SR-55 along the east side of Lake Cascade, then on SR-55 to Lowman. This was the twistiest road of the trip and there was no traffic - great fun. At Lowman we regrouped before breakfast near Stanley, Id., at Elk River Lodge - a great spot for a meal. Stanley is set in a very pretty valley along the Salmon River with views of the Sawtooth Range to the west. It didn’t fit this year’s plan so we opted for Salmon, Id. Bertram’s Brewery was a short walk from the motel, with great food and good selection of beer. And the finals of the US Open on telly. Day 4 It was 250 km down the road in Rexburg before we could find a meal. The terrain en route reminds me of Nevada; a broad sage-covered valley with mostly straight road. By Rexburg it became low rolling farmland, and nearing Teutonia on SR-33 we caught our first glimpse of the Teton Mountains. High prices killed plans to overnight in Jackson, so the Three Rivers Inn at Alpine Junction substituted. Construction and heavy truck traffic over Teton Pass was unfortunate. Day 5 Cool temps under hi thin overcast on our way down US-89 and over Geneva Summit before breakfast in Montpelier, Id. En route a handful of antelope decided to test our braking skills so keep your eyes peeled and stay safe out there. US-30 to Diamondville, Wy., for fuel and a water break. Flaming Gorge has red rock vistas so common to this area of the USA and unfamiliar to me that make it seem exotic. Nearing Vernal, the temperature jumped up to the mid-30’s ℃, or mid-90’s ℉. Warm, but the dry near-desert air kept it bearable. The rest of the trip we’d see similar afternoon temperatures. Vernal Brewing Company was our choice for dinner, as it was for many other folk. Thankfully, it was worth the wait. Day 6 From Rangely, Colo., SR-139 is a surprisingly entertaining ride through low farmlands and over Douglas Pass before descending to Grand Junction. Colorado National Monument was another pleasant surprise, like a scale version of Canyonlands NP in Utah. Some of us are a little nervous about the loong drops. Our two hours or so wasn’t enough but Colorado is a big state and we had more ground to cover. A couple guys headed straight to Delta, the rest of us took the side trip over Grand Mesa. Dinner in Delta was one of the few bad choices and is best forgotten. Day 7 SR-133 to Carbondale is a lovely rural highway, scenic but not dramatic, curvy but not tight. Hickory House in Aspen, Colo., is a ribs joint with a pretty varied menu. Atop Independence Pass the brilliant sunshine kept us warm despite the 12,000 foot elevation, as we enjoyed the fantastic alpine vista. But walk slowly or you’ll soon find yourself panting. One photo recreated a shot I took on my first visit back in 1996. The western approach is narrower and tighter, the eastern side has I think better views. After Twin Lakes we turned east on US-24 bound for Colorado Springs. Crossing Wilkerson Pass we caught a heavy rain shower, but it barely dampened my jeans. Day 8 The Pikes Peak Hill Climb was scheduled for Sunday, but on Friday morning we could ride up after the practice session ended ~9 am. Unfortunately there was heavy stop & go traffic for the last 15 miles to the summit, not fun on the tight switchbacks. The wx cooperated and only near the top was it get socked in, and then only to the northeast view. The air at 14,000 feet tasted pretty thin but no worse than on Independence Pass. Spending the past week above one mile elevation must have helped. iPhone panoramas are handy but sometimes give queer results - zoom in on #76 ;-P Downtown Colorado Springs hosted a Fanfest in celebration of the race. Lots of competitors as well as a chil cook-off (cheap dinner), but no vendors that I saw. And it was within walking distance from our motel. Btw, this was the furthest south and east for the trip. Day 9 Little traffic and a mild, sunny morning on ride up SR-67, SR-126, SR-73, SR-74, and CR-65, to Idaho Springs. Breakfast at Wildfire in Idaho Springs then a short stint on I-70 before taking US-40. Berthaud Pass was good fun despite being a 3-4 lane highway. Coffee break at Kremmling, Colo. We stayed on on US-40 the rest of the day. Another thunder shower on Rabbit Ears Pass, then a great view of Lake Catamount descending into Steamboat Springs. Another timeout for an iced coffee to beat the heat. As with Jackson, Steamboat Springs was pricey and busy so we opted to stay just down the road in Craig. Two thumbs up to the Castle Ranch Steakhouse at the Clarion. Day 10 For 3+ days and 1,000 km the VFR ran well, but the battery died again early Sunday. Bump started the VFR again and at the next fuel stop in Rawlins, Wy., I swapped in the original (recharged) battery. Lunch at the Split Rock Cafe in Jeffrey City, Wy., was … interesting. The temperature hit at 35 ℃ later while riding through Wind River Canyon. Maybe an hour after checking into our motel in Thermopolis a massive thunderstorm roared in, first the wind then heavy rain. Starting early has benefits. Day 11 Cooke City, Mt., was our first stop. Fuel first, then a leisurely breakfast at the Prospector Restaurant. Lots of photos on SR-296, Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. It was one of the best roads of the ride, or would have been had the western slope not been under construction. Very little traffic though. We scratched Beartooth Pass, opting for a shorter ride through Yellowstone NP to Bozeman. Too bad ‘cause it was a lovely day. The northeast part of Yellowstone is typically the least travelled and we practically had the road to ourselves - other than for the bison that is. No photos because if I don’t mess with them and they might not mess with me. Final break was under the trees at Mammoth Hot Springs visitor centre, then on to Bozeman, Mt. After checking into the motel I bought a battery charger and a small digital multimeter from a local auto parts store so I’ll start tomorrow with a fresh battery. Day 12 SR-84, SR-287, snd SR-41, took us past Norris and Virginia City to breakfast at Dillon, Mt. Some great vistas along the way, too. SR-287 over Big Hole Pass is more flowing than twisty, with a lovely view of the valley below. Then SR-43 to US-93 at Chief Joseph Pass. US-93 was ok for the first few miles then became forgettable into Missoula. Our early starts mean ending the day by mid-afternoon, a big bonus with the high temperatures. And it gave me time recharge both batteries overnight. Dinner next door at Mackenzie River Pizza was another good choice. Day 13 Our earliest getaway yet for the longest leg, we were on the road by 6 am. Last night we decided on a more direct route tomorrow to Winthrop, Wa. I-90 made for a quick ride to Spokane, with only a quick gas & coffee stop in Coeur d’Alene. Then onto US-2 through the rolling farmland to Davenport, and a relaxing coffee. On the way to Grand Coulee I got separated from the others after some photo stops and ended up solo for the rest of the day. SR-155 climbs into the cool forest before hotting up nearing Omak. Then onto SR-20 and on to Winthrop, a small, western-themed town that relies on tourism. We had our only Mexican dinner of the trip at Carlos 1880 - may I recommend the grilled salmon fajitas? Day 14 Breakfast at Three Finger Jacks before leaving. No reason to hurry as it is the shortest leg of the journey, giving us plenty of time to get to the ferry at Anacortes. More photos of the Liberty Bell formation on Washington Pass, and then at Ross Lake. I caught up to the guys at Nehalem. At Anacortes we had time to unwind over coffee at Starbucks, then time for the boat. The 2 hour ferry ride had us back home by dinnertime.
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I have had the usual RR - stator failure one too many times now so have just invested in the Mosfet RR from Roadstercycle.com, ne OEM stator from Honda and the VFRness from wiremybike.com. I'm not the best with the spanners but can follow idiot guides. What I need to know is, if anyone has fitted these and if so do you have a how to with pics/video? From what i can tell so far, the RR is not best suited to fit in the stock position, where have you fitted yours? Any photos or help appreciated TIA Moose
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From the album: nel.parts
new stator -
Hello people... I was seeing posts about wire extensions, so, I'm noob and I don't understand anything about this theme. I saw the work done for the mello dude (i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu37/ohioriver/Statorextensions1.jpg) and I think that I will can to do something similar, but I don't know how... :( My problem... I bought a pickup coil and wires are very, very short, and I will need to do wire extensions. My problem is that these extensions stay within crankcase, where exist motor oil. Can I do wire extensions in oil?! Is there problem?! If I can, could anyone help me about will can do it? What material will I need? Help me please. Thanks. Best regards.
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I know this has been beaten to death on here, but I would rather look a fool on here than not be riding. I have the notes from the last time I did this with my 5th gen, but everything looks different on the 6th gen. I have made great leaps in knowledge and confidence in regards to working on anything mechanical since getting into motorcycles, but I still have no confidence when it comes to electrical anything. Here are my notes from last time: Here is my problem - I know I need to check the R/R, but where do I stick the probes? There are so many wires and rubber cone shrouds that they all look the same. Same thing with the stator. Where is the connector that I need to test? I looked at so many posts, but none had pictures of a 6th gen. I swear if I can do this, I am going to document everything.
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So... my VFR died on a trip a few weeks ago and it had to be towed. Turns out that my stator was toasted, so I had it rewound. I also replaced my regulator/rectifier. It was an SH689FA and I replaced it with a Shindengen FH020. Next, I tried to fire it up. It shows around 13 V at idle and climbs up to 14.1 V at 5000 rpm. However, when I turn hi-beams on, voltage drops at 13 volts and then continues to drop. I have seen it drop as low as 12.5 V and I'm sure that if I had let the engine running any more, voltage would drop even further. Same thing happens when my radiator fan comes on. It also drops and fluctates around 13-13.5 V with turn signals on. I tried using a different battery and a different regulator/rectifier (the latter taken from a Suzuki TL) and I got exact same results. I wired the FH020 regulator directly to the battery using 10 gauge wires. I also tested the stator using a multimeter. Resistance between all three terminals is within standard, there is no continuity between terminals and ground and AC voltage from the stator is around 30-40 V at idle and around 120 V at 5000 rpm, again between all three terminals. Before my VFR dies, I used to get 14.8-14.9 V while travelling, regardless of using Hi-beams, charging cell phones or anything else. All cables from stator to regulator and from regulator to the battery seem OK, and I haven't touched anything else. So, what could cause that drop in voltage? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot in advance!
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After 130,000 km my trusty traveling companion finally let me down , we have been on many adventures going where we probably have shouldn't always getting home . Today in traffic she just stopped , battery flat . She arrived home on a tow truck , just checked stator voltage from cold it was 16 volts for about 5 seconds then dropped to 2 volts so it's toast . Probably taken out regulator as we'll I suppose will check that when I fit new stator . Maybe I should have fitted that volt meter after all . I think I will fit one on both my fifth gens this week . The red one is the one that " failed to proceed " a vfr never breaks down . The other one I rebuilt after a crash it's only got 40,000 km on her .