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02 VFR ABS, recently in an accident. main wiring harness replaced The bike will randomly completely lose power momentarily. Everything will shut off, including the dash and motor. When the dash powers back on, the clock resets and the speedo resets to KMH. We measured 14 volts charging a couple days ago. Replacing the battery did not fix the issue. Now, after a random shutoff, the dash will light up but the bike will no longer start. It feels like there is not enough voltage to turn the starter. Measuring the voltage with key off had 12.2 volts with key on and engine off measured at 11.5 volts bike did not start and did not crank fully What could be the issue here?

" A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike. " I found this quoted on the Powerlet website and thought that it would be interesting to hear people's opinions on it given that the R/R is the the main area of sudden failure on the otherwise indestructible VFR's. Scroll down to Table 4 " What if I don't have enough power?" #3 http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

I replaced the original OEM regulator/rectifier [r/r] on my 2001 5th gen with a Shindengen SH847 series-style r/r from roadstercycle.com. There were no problems evident with my elecrical system, but with 48,595 miles on my old[ish] VFR, I might be on borrowed time with the all-original wiring, stator and r/r. I read through the pinned threads on the vfrd electrical forum: 'stator tests', 'electrical upgrade', and 'tips and tricks' - thanks to everyone who contributed their advice and experiences to these informative threads. Thanks to Duc2V4 for his guidance and for introducing me to roadstercycle.com and introducing me to Jack, the craftsman behind the roadstercycle website. Special thanks to Jack for his excellent suggestions, products, service, and for showing me his amazing shop and machines. Readings before beginning project: 12.9v on the battery with ignition switch off 0.8-0.9ohms across all three stator legs when disconnected from r/r [my meter reads 0.6ohms when I short the two probes together] No continuity from any stator leg to ground 19-20v on all three stator legs at 1200rpm idle [engine temp 174F] 61-63v on all three stator legs at 5000rpm I neglected to check battery voltages with engine running before I began I used this nifty $20 voltmeter [It also has two USB charging ports] from ebay for continuous battery voltage display - plugged it into my always-on steering stem power outlet. I compared it to my multi-meter, and they displayed the same voltages: Here is the original OEM r/r with leads disconnected: The connectors on the cables coming from the stock r/r didn't look bad, though the connector on the stator wires was a bit discolored: The series-type SH847 is $50.00 more than the popular mosfet SH020AA, but operates on demand instead of constantly, runs even cooler than mosfet, and has a 50 amp capacity. I went with it because I've been doing track days and don't want to challenge the r/r if I have to unplug the lights before taping them over [the headlights melt through polyethylene tape if you leave them on after you tape them over - ask me how I know]. The SH847 connectors are built onto the r/r. Roadstercycle sells the SH847 as a kit and makes up the connectors/cables for the battery and stator leads from 10 gauge marine grade wire: The SH847 is a physically larger unit - here it is next to the stock r/r: Before purchasing, I made an actual size mockup and taped it in place to test fit it under the rear cowl in the stock r/r location. It would have efficient cable routing and clear the cowl and passenger rear set assembly if oriented with the connectors facing forward, which would mean the cooling fins would be perpendicular to airflow as I perceived it. Jack said the series-type and mosfet Shindengen r/r's don't care about airflow direction: After visiting roadstercycle.com, receiving an education and a tour from Jack, then picking up r/r kits for my bike and for member Hammerdrill's 's 6th gen, I fit the SH847 in place, mapped out its location, and marked where to drill the top mounting hole [Yes, I cleaned up the hole with a rat tail file after drilling]: This left the new r/r's bottom mounting hole just below the bottom rail of the subframe. I hate mixing SAE and metric fasteners [I never know if I'll remember the right size tools later], but my best mounting solution was the threaded endpiece of this 1/4-20 draw bolt. I used the threaded piece to grab the subframe from underneath by threading it onto a bolt running through the r/r's bottom mounting hole: I cut a 1/4-20 flange bolt short enough that it wouldn't grind into the plastic fender behind the subframe, cut the bottom rear corner off the threaded draw bolt piece so it could clear the fender when pivoted up to grab the subframe securely, then loctited the threads and cinched it all up with stainless washers between the mounting bolts and the r/r: Roadstercycle's kit comes with finished battery cables. I asked for 11" battery cables, but Jack wisely recommended 12" lengths. I'm glad he did, because they fit like this [The nearest black and red cables in this photo are the leads from the new r/r and the red fixture on the left with two bumps on it is the 30amp circuit breaker that Jack builds into the kit]: Per the instructions, I taped off the now unused connector that ran from the wire harness to the old r/r and fastened it out of the way: The kit comes with 18" stator cables, solder-on sleeves, and crimp connectors - you choose whichever connector you prefer. I cut the stator cables to length using cable cutters. I like actual cable cutters for stranded cable because they capture the strands and compress them together so the strands don't get crushed and spread apart between the two blades of regular wire cutters or dikes. Next was to solder on the sleeves, followed by completely forgetting to take photos of the cables in my solder jig, but there's not much there to imagine. Roadstercycle has a good video on how to solder connectors. Just before heating the last piece of shrinkwrap onto the last finished stator connection, I remembered to take a photo: That's it. My final electrical readings are all the same - I didn't change out the stator or battery. I finally took battery readings with the engine running and got 13.3v at 1200rpm idle, 14.5v at 5000rpm.

I have a weird charging issue. 95 VFR, bike dies suddenly at lights and doesn't start up randomly. Found the plug from the stator to the reg/rect was fried. (I have a Ricks reg/rect.) so I replaced the whole harness with the VFRNESS from wiremybike. Bike ran for a few days but then wouldn't start, had to push start to get it home. This has happened before the vfrness as well. so I thought maybe it's the battery and I replaced it last week. The very next morning out it dies on me on the Brooklyn bridge half hour in to the ride. Pulled the stator, looks okay to me, but wanted to get ya'll expert opinion. I don't know what's wrong, or what to replace. replaced the harness, replaced battery, replaced reg/rect, stator looks okay. when I put the voltage meter to the battery it goes up to about 13.8v at 4-5k rpm. so It does get juice when it's running. I wonder if at some point it stops getting juice?!?! Got a battery voltmeter I haven't put on yet just to see if it drops at some point, BUT PLEASE ANY HELP IS WELCOME. I have no clue what to check..

Hi folks, I started the charging system rejuvenation process last year. My system was working perfectly 12.5-13v at idle, 13.8-14.1v at 1500 RPM & 14.4v at 5000 RPM, but I wanted to insure against future problems. My stator-R/R plug (3 yellow wire) was getting hot, but not yet burned so I cut that out and soldered & heatshrinked the wires. No heat in the wires now. Then I bought a mosfet R/R and installed that. It came with a "kit" of 12 gauge wiring, a new 3 yellow wire plug and a weather-proof 4 terminal plug for 2 red and 2 black 12 gauge wires (1 red & 1 black directly to the battery). When I cut the original R/R harness, I put 1/4" spade terminals on both sides of the cut and matching connectors on the new R/R wiring for an easy roadside swap if it was ever necessary. (I have read stories that not all of these are as reliable or long-lived as they should be and I didn't buy the "name brand". My decision, you may decide different.) That's when the trouble started. Idle voltage was 13v, then 13.8v at 1500-2000 & 13.8v at 5000 RPM. When I unloaded her after the big move, I went for a ride to get gas only to need a boost at the gas station. I found the 3 yellow wire plug had come undone. Aha, I thought. But no, even after a charge and a ride a week later it still cranked over slower than normal. Yesterday I put the meter on it and watched it intermittently lose charge. Hmmm, then I watched the 3 yellow wire plug and saw an occasional arc. One of the terminals had pushed out a bit the last time I connected it at the gas station. I fixed that, but DAMMIT, 13.8v is still not right! So I thought about it and realized that the spades in the weather-proof plug that came with it were less than 1/8" wide. Why didn't I think about that before - nowhere near big enough. This also explains why the wires connected directly to the battery made no difference to the voltage received by the battery. This morning, I went out and snipped out the plugs - both of them. They weren't necessary anyway since I had the 1/4" spades in there for emergency use. I reconfigured the connectors and got 13.8v at idle and 14.2v at 5000 RPM. Then I connected the extra red & black wires directly to the battery and now have 14.2v at idle and 14.3-14.4v from 1500 all the way up to 5000 RPM. So, those 2 wires to the battery are worth 0.5v over the stock harness. This morning I started to do The Drill ( http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthrea...2131-The-Drill ) until I was sure I had no stator or R/R trouble. I also read through Jeff Barrett's write-up on the charging system of his 6th gen ( http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthrea...ectrical-Loads - great job, Jeff). The moral of the story is to go with a mosfet R/R, 12 gauge wire, connect the extra red and black wires directly to the battery and do the 3 yellow wire fix. Cheers, Glenn

Hi everyone just wondering if anyone has ever heard their R/R on making noise.Everything is working like it should but at idle I heard it making sort of a buzzing noise.It was last replaced about 6 years ago I took out the connector and soldered the 3 yellow wires.Battery is probably about 3 years old.voltages are 12.48 not running 13.02 idling about 1100 14.48 @5000. That it with everything at operating temp.Its on my 98 Fifth gen.I would like to catch it before I am stuck on the road if possible thanks the regular I installed is mos fet I ordered from Rick's motor sport

I have a question about the VFRness instal, and would like opinions on the state of this stator I just replaced. According to the instructions the extra red wire goes to the starter relay. Just to make sure I have it right is this the wire (front right red wire)? (I do have the replacement plug kit) Not sure if I will just remove and replace the red wire or do a full replace of the starter relay plug with the replacement kit.. probably the latter. Below is a picture of the stator I removed (on the left). It is the original stator and had over 50k miles on it. What is your opinion of it's condition? I replaced it with a Rick's stator of course. Thanks for the feedback in advance!

Hi guys, I have a problem that I can't figure out. I have a 2002 VFR that has 72,000 miles now. I had the whole engine replaced at 65,000 miles because I bought manual CCTs and I overtightened them and resulted with the Cam Chains snapping. So I replaced the engine with a 2004 VFR engine that only had 15,000 miles. Everything was great. But today, my battery died on me. Its my daily ride, so I cant seem to figure out what is going on. Things that you guys might think are problems had been changed already when I replaced the engine. I changed the stator, rectifier, VFRness, and battery. 1. Things that happen to me on a daily basis. I live in San Francisco, and I have to ride in the city everyday. After riding for about 20 minutes in stop and go traffic, the horn would get weaker and weaker to the point of not having sound. Mind you, the engine temp is always around 200-210F when I ride in the city. 2. Another thing that happens is the engine cutting out when I blip the throttle. That happens when I have the clutch pulled in and blipped to shift from 2nd to 1st. Anyway, its confusing for me because I have the parts that could've caused the electrical problems replaced already. Any input will be helpful to me. Thank you.

Looking for the best place online to order a new rectifier for my 2003 VFR800 VTEC. Thanks for the recommendations!

I have had the usual RR - stator failure one too many times now so have just invested in the Mosfet RR from Roadstercycle.com, ne OEM stator from Honda and the VFRness from wiremybike.com. I'm not the best with the spanners but can follow idiot guides. What I need to know is, if anyone has fitted these and if so do you have a how to with pics/video? From what i can tell so far, the RR is not best suited to fit in the stock position, where have you fitted yours? Any photos or help appreciated TIA Moose

I specifically wanted a later model 6th gen for two reasons. Tweaked VTEC engagement and electrical gremlins to be worked out. I was getting ready to go for a ride with my favorite group of hooligans tonight. I told them I would meet them, I just wanted to run home to change into a warmer jacket since my mesh is too light for the 64 degree July we are having. I also decided to get gas. After I fill up and go to start the bike, it sloooooowwwwwly turns over. Clock is reset. Tripometer is reset. Lights are dim. G------ it. So I meet the guys and let them know that I am not going to risk it (they were literally a mile away from where I was) and I come home to park the bike. Beyond pissed at Honda at the moment. I know, I know... calm down. I'll do "The Drill" tomorrow, but tonight I want to piss and moan about it.

Bike has been running like a train ,I have put in a new starter relay/main fuse assembly, soldered the three wires from the stator to the (new) Compufire RR, installed a new Datel voltmeter through a relay, directly to the battery, checked all grounds, battery is sound, spins the motor and starts it just fine. Today, stopped for approx. 1/2 hr.( after riding all morning) , start bike,get to the first stop, and the main fuse blows.It didn't just blow because of excess current, but overheated ,too, distorted the plastic housing it fits in, etc.etc. Bought a new 30amp fuse, managed to jam it in where the old one was,and viola!! starts and runs fine. Voltage at battery before the blown fuse was 14.3 Voltage after the blown fuse is 14.3, but now the Compufire RR is HOT as HELL. I don't remember it ever getting warmer than ,you know, warm. Because the Compufire is series RR, rather than the stock shunt type, it should run much cooler. I think (one of the) problem is that the tangs of the 30amp fuse are not making good enough contact with the connectors in the starter relay assembly. Pushing 30 amps through a poor connection has got to produce heat, correct?? Any input appreciated. Jeff

Hi All, I'm posting this mostly as a thank you to the folks past and present who make VFRD so awesome. From the very idea of adding a voltmeter to tips, suggestions, warnings, etc. I learned pretty much everything I needed to know for this project from reading on this site. Quick background: My 1991 VFR 750 is my first bike and pretty much the only bike I've ever ridden (other than a Rebel 250 at a MSF weekend course). I've had it for coming up on three years. Over the years I've had a number of electrical problems that have left me stranded but I didn't really understand what was going on. Eventually I got fed up and replaced my stator, r/r, and battery all at once. Well... even that didn't solve my problem which as some of us know (thanks gll429!) is due to an insufficient wiring harness and poor grounds. After replacing the r/r again, adding additional ground points, and adding a VFRness I'm finally satisfied my bike isn't going to leave me stranded. However, now I'm extremely paranoid and check the voltage at the battery quite frequently (about as often as I check my tire pressure). So... a hard wired voltmeter was needed! I jumped on ebay and purchased a $10 voltmeter rated from 4 - 40 volts. When it arrived I checked its readings against my (also cheap) Harbour Freight voltmeter. They matched perfectly! Next was a quick trip to Radio Shack. I picked up: 1 variety pack of 20 gauge wire in red, black, and green 1 on / off toggle switch 1 variety pack of crimp on butt connectors 1 variety pack of ring terminals 1 variety pack of female disconnects I already had the following at home: electrical tape crimper / wire stripper heat shrink tubing Here's what I did: I pulled the lower dash panel (see pics below) and drilled a hole for the toggle switch and dremeled a rectangle for the voltmeter. The toggle switch had a self-locking mechanism so I just used this. To secure the voltmeter I added two long srews with nylon locking nuts. I taped a border around the voltmeter on the front of the panel and used black liquid electrical tape to fill the small cracks / scuffs from the dremel. ***warning*** the voltmeter I used was just small enough to fit between the panel and the plastic pieces behind it when installed. If you're following these directions take a close look at that area after you pull off the panel and before you start working to get an idea of the space you have to work with. I wired the positive (red) lead from the voltmeter to the toggle switch using a female disconnect. I added another long piece of wire with a female disconnect on one end and a ring terminal on the other to the other male lead on the voltmeter. I created a matching negative wire with a ring terminal on one side and used a butt connector to connect it to the negative lead on the voltmeter. I taped up the positive and negative wires (to each other and then around the bundle for protection) and routed it with other wires from beind the dash towards the headstock then along the existing wiring harness to the battery. In my case I connected it to my Termin-8 but fuse block, battery, Termin-8, etc. is all the same. And that's it! I took my bike out for a ride last night and I can't even begin to express how comforting it is to see a solid 14.5 on the dash while riding! Frankly, I'm very proud that I was able to finally solve my electrical problems without getting screwed by a big box dealer and I've learned a TON along the way. Hopefully this post goes a little ways to "paying it forward" and helps someone else out!

Charging system troubles are usually blamed on the reg/rec or battery. Others, thankfully few, have fingered the alternator. On my bike the problem was a failed starter relay connector. It had overheated, probably due to corrosion. That meant an open circuit between the output reg/rec and the battery. So, if your bike's battery keeps going flat check this connection before buying a new battery or reg/rec. It could save you $$$.

First, I feel a bit guilty posting this given the volumes of posts on VFR electrics. My problem is I'm a total noob and don't even know what a stator or R/R are or do (I'm learning slowly though). My level is I have an analog multimeter and know what ohms, volts and amps are. That's it. Problem - My voltage monitor (http://tinyurl.com/3c6ns42) indicates that I'm riding at below 12 volts which I assume will cause the battery to die soon. Symptoms Started bike for first ride after weekend of electrical installations (VFRNess bundle, Voltage Monitor, Grip Heaters, 12volt outlet, Stebel horn). Had a headlight modulator and tailight modulator already installed. Voltage monitor indicates steady green at idle (12.9 to 15.1v) Take off for maybe 400 feet and monitor goes to red (12.1 to 12.6v) Stop at first light and back to green at idle (Now I thinking something strange is going on) Fluctuates between red and blinking red (under 12.1) to next light where back to green at idle. From that point on basically went from steady red to blinking red for rest of 25 minute ride including at idle. Decided to come home and not risk getting stuck. Just to test, started fine once I got home, but idle at flashing red. Internal setup (if it matters) Bike got new battery from dealer before I bought it a month ago at 11K miles. It's been running fine in that time, but didn't have a voltage meter to test the system. Has started without issue. Ground wire for voltage meter, grips, 12volt are joined near dash and then one wire connects to the ground point for the VFRNess at the R/R (16 gauge). Voltage monitor starts with skinnier probably 22gauge Voltage meter positive is joined with 12volt positive and run to VFRNess Fuseblock (16 gauge) Grip heater positive runs by itself to VFRness Fuseblock (16 gauge) Stebel has its own connection to the battery and relay/fuse that come with wiring kit. Questions Where do I start? What does it mean when higher voltage at idle than 5000 RPM. I think it's my idiot wiring job (didn't know better), so could the distance of wire or the joining of wire be the issue? Below are some pictures of my VFRNess and wiring install VFRNess Negative wiring joins for heated grips/12volt/voltage meter