KevCarver

Or find someone that just bought one and buy their old stock one for cheap!

Ok, I was thinking the opposite. Never studied hydraulics, so it's all guess work on my part... So, what Honda rear m/c are out there with smaller than 14mm bore and 45mm (on center) bolt spacing? The Duc 11mm m/c I have seen on eBay are 40mm.

Good to know I got the math(s) correct! I pulled mine off the storage shelf and it seems to say 11/16", about 8/1 on the chart. Lever travel as is seems pretty normal, on the short side. Would a smaller m/c shorten it? I think that would be too much. I'm using the 14mm now, got new pads on order and hoping that will prove to be a difference since I don't know what pads came with it. They looked brand new, so I kept them when I installed everything.

Best I can come up with is the 34mm 2 piston caliper and 14mm m/c have an 11.8/1 ratio, and the Duc 1098 S with the same caliper and 11mm m/c are 19.1/1.

For all you hydraulics experts: I've changed out my rear brake setup twice now. First was removing linked brakes, adding a crossover line to the stock rear caliper and swapping out stock '99 master for a 14mm RC51 master. Last year I got an adapter to fit a Ducati 2 piston caliper and kept the 14mm master. Turns out the 34mm rear caliper from an '08 1098 S is using an 11mm master cylinder. Stopping power isn't great, but I don't really use it much. Nice to hold it on a hill and release the fronts. I'm using the pads that came with the caliper, I have no idea what they are. I just ordered a set of EBC HH just to match the fronts and baseline what I'm used to. What will going to a smaller master cylinder do for the system? Is there a compatible Honda smaller rear master to fit the bolt spacing? I think it's 45mm, confirm or correct?

Looking good! Never really liked the look of the stock 6th Gen gauge lighting anytime I've been on one.

I know what you are talking about. I never had to do any aircraft work, so my sloppy weekend warrior race prep is good enough. I always say safety wire is ironically named, as it's about the most dangerous thing in the garage! I try to wire it the best I can, but to me it's more of a visual confirmation that yes I did tighten and torque those fasteners than an actual physical holder. I know some people that tend to leave things finger tight because they are going to "get back to that before it's done" but never actually get back to it. So I know torqued it if it's wired. The front ones are better, and the tails are better tucked away. I never need to get into the rear caliper area. Yes Ti bolts from ProBolt! I swapped out all the caliper hardware. Just another tip, the Brembo caliper was set up so that the banjo and bleeder are interchangeable. They actually came in the opposite holes from where I put them to mount it. Pretty cool touch from Brembo!

100% agree! I don't know the age of my previous pump and filter because I changed them out at some point for a 2001 tank and pump assembly, but the filter was fine and certainly well over 26,000 miles. Top filter is the '98-'99 filter, part#16900-MBG-003 and according to Ron Ayers unavailable. Part# 16900-MBG-013 is the lower filter with the curved neck and was used on 6th gen as well as recently as the '18 ST1300, so will be in stock for quite a while longer. To adapt, all you would need is the shorter straight fuel line part# 16712-MBG-010 from 2000+ VFR. If someone absolutely has to have the -003 filter, I have one NIB.

Yeah, totally agree! I got one of the first batch and it fits like factory! Took about 1.5 lbs. off, too. Brembo rear adapter

Yeah, I like them for Ti.

I did basically the same chop job on my '99 years ago, but then I started noticing cracks in my expensive Thurn clear tail light and eventually found an unmolested full fender to replace it. It's literally the most stock thing on my bike, and I don't mind one bit!

BAS won't be "going bad" unless you crash and crack it, then all the fluid inside eventually drains or evaporates out and going over bumps will cause it to kill the ignition until you cycle the key. Won't blow any fuses. If you shake the BAS around, and don't hear it rattle, then the damping fluid is still in place. You can jumper the outer pins to each other on the harness plug to run without the BAS and that won't blow any fuses. Blown fuses are coming from something/somewhere else. Could be the wires to the BAS, but not the unit itself.

Good info, thanks for the updates guys! Plastic seems to hold up nicely for the price.

5th Gen is also 1/2"

Fifth Gen bump stop is on the side pipe, so whatever people are using would likely already have it built in, unless it's super fancy race only or something. Just my guess on it...