spud786
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Everything posted by spud786
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End result , you believe lower oil pressure and more oil flow is better, and it probably is for fuel mileage, For real wear protection , I prefer thicker film strength and good oil pressure. How many miles on your 0w30 car oil, any uoa more than 700 miles, like a UOA with 2000 miles that's been Hammer headed and not used for church social events?
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Don't fear the shear... because the difference in viscosity between the grades is only 3 cSt and thats not 3 cSt thinner or thicker... the measurement is 3 cSt in more flow... 3 cSt in more flow doesn't risk increase wear... our modern engines protected by modern oils don't operate with in a narrow 3 cSt range of risk... Blackstone graded your oil by cSt testor... that means a quantity of oil was heated to a standard temp and the rate of flow was recorded by a stop watch... this flow-rate is governed by resistance of the oil flowing under gravity through the capillary tube, this test actually measures an oil’s kinematic viscosity. The viscosity is typically reported in centistokes (cSt), and is calculated from the time it takes oil to flow from the starting point to the stopping point using a calibration constant supplied for each tube... so a drop of one grade which is only a 3 cSt difference in flow is nothing to fear... Got an answer for everything, don't you BLS... always educational. Thanks... A lot of theory atleast
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Hey Cogswell... we over here at ClubVFRSpain.es have just realized that that Nutella stuff your using is aimed more at tractors and diesel cars... and on the Shell Specs sheet they boast its superior resistence to shredding... thus maintaining optimum viscosity... and yet that's where the stuff fell short in your analysis!! Food for thought. The analysis points out that fuel can thin the oil... don't know how much since 0.5% isn't cautionary but its presence may have an effect on the viscosity... Are you basing that on an oil analysis or seat of the pants opinion? oil analysis, dropped a full grade by 1100 miles, its the oil I broke the bike in on the first 7 or 8,000 miles, and I was changing about every 1100 miles cause the oil looked so bad till I had it tested to confirm my eye was seeing., From my standpoint T6 and 10w40 car oil works about the same in a vfr. Both for short oci use. I upgraded at the time to 15w40 amsoil and that oil was good for double the mileage, and verified analysis also.
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if you really like the t6, okay, but you can do a lot better. My riding destroys t6 in about 1100 miles, just not worth bothering with.
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You have to address the issue of fouled plugs, that's just the end result of something else in the fuel system is wrong.
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Don't over complicate the level check, just put it on the center stand, and oil level should be at recommended lines and when full hot it will be slightly higher, as long as you see air space at the top of the site glass, don't worry about it. Next time you dump your oil, smell that, but you can do an oil analysis , but it should be sampled immediately after a 4 or 5 hour run.
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are you paranoid, oil absorbs hydrocarbons, it will always smell like gas to some degree. If the oil looks like chocolate milk Id suspect coolant leak and not fuel. Picture would help too. Generally if you have fuel in the oil, it will nearly knock you out when you smell it, and that's not an exaggeration.
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I don't see an issue with the tire, no waviness ,no scalloping, but too little rebound is normally felt.
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The trick is to keep flushing the resovior every few months, that way when your post 100,000 miles its still mint. But the lines on a new bike break down somewhat internally, that will stop and then you only need to flush the res once or twice per year . But the key is getting ahead of it in the beginning. If its really bad you may need to do a flush of the system, I've only done a full flush once at 2,000 miles, and I had brown sludge in the res that early.
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What water temps are you seeing by the time you get to work, or on the freeway?
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This+ as far as water temps, of course the transmission takes longer . I don't see you getting any benefit with synthetic, but you might run a light 30 weight oil since the oil never thins out under this scenario.
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1 ohm to ground = shorted stator
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$10 per irid plug, that is a steal
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If you jump from a non started car battery and if its fine, then its the battery. Battery can have no output even though it reads voltage.
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Talk Me Out Of Replacing This 6Th Gen Stator . . .
spud786 replied to Cogswell's topic in Electrical
Your shelack is heavily melted. only time will tell when it actually shorts out, but not too far off. Ive been sitting on a $200 stator for a couple months waiting for mine to go, but I have well over 50,000 miles on this particular stator. -
I don't even go half of 8000 miles, Im rewarded with a post 100,000 mile vfr that still runs as good or better off the showroom floor and still has the original clutch that performs flawless, and lets not forget no valve check, course my secret sauce is also a routine dose of leaded race fuel. Far as Im concerned , that's the ticket to long life, without compromise and degrade.
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The big Needle bearings will take on abuse better, they are used pretty much exclusively used in offroad bikes. Having said that, the key to the oem is making them right when the bike is new. Then they'll last a long time. The problem is they normally get loose right of the showroom floor, and 20,000 miles of play, trashes the bearings. But I have no issue with mine presently post 100,000 miles.
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I guess 41mm condoms are Tree size LOL you use a strip of electrical tape and vasoline to slide over rough area like the top of the tube. I guess sometimes the chrome where the triple clamps mount can get rusty. I don't own condoms , so I have to do it natural. >G
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You are talking seal and not dust cover that your replaced? Seals are very delicate and easily damaged and some brands aren't any good, how did you get the original seal out? you should have seen the bushing condition at that time.
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6Th Gen Headlamp Removal Question...
spud786 replied to The mailman's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
It slides off really easy, if you squeeze the sides correctly, any force at all something isn't right. -
Lots of wires , does it run yet?
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The bike is lean in that area, Ive heard several bikes that cant hold 2500 rpm in neutral, it wants to break(jump) one way or the other. Ive never seen a big issue while in gear , atleast with mine. Im pretty sure some bikes are worse than others on the issue. Power commander seems the easiest direction and if your stock, the standard map should be a definite improvement.
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Truckers normally know where they are going, and they are normally told where not to go. Im sure its a time saving issue, verses going around. Just my experience from being around a Family owned trucking company. Now if they are actually delivering in the area, then they have not much choice. I could see making the mistake once, if trucker turn over rate was endless through that area.
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It seems to me that is a heck of a lot of work for a tractor trailer to run the dragon, how much time are they really saving?
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Florida Boy Needs Advice For Winter Gloves
spud786 replied to burnes45's topic in Clothing & Wearables
Winter riding? Nothing is worse than being hundreds of miles from the house and having hypothermia set in, it makes for an unpleasant ride home. The most important Body part to even begin comfort is the Core of the body, That is key to everything, usually you'll find by the time the hands are freezing, the Body core is too far gone. While gloves are a good start, it will never fix the issue until you deal with the core, and nothing works better than electrics for this purpose. So if going to spend money start there, it will be the best riding friend that you'll ever have.