spud786

Yeh I dont know why some have more heating issues, I know the last guy was running watter wetter without antifreeze , and it says very clearly on the bottle does not significantly increase waters boiling point which is 212 degrees. being the vfrs normal operating range is higher than that , I definitely see an issue developing

I have no problem with the vfr cooling system , if bike goes over 220 fan comes on sends it back to 200 no issue completely stock 223/224 degrees is the max i ever see in the 37,000 mile I've owned it

rivcyko, did ya get the new cam tensioner yet? any difference seen

I've run all the diesil oils and for the money and function I like the Motorcraft 15w40 best .

that airbox looks different internally than on my 06 model, the Tubes were taller and only the rear had a step down in the base of the airbox. I dont think I'm dreaming

My 06 came with chain adjuster and extension and that was it, 1 month later salescalled and said the had a seat cowl for it. I really loved the cowl but the tail bag is more of a nessesity.

Hum I didnt know there was more room, I keep tools and stuff under the seat, my compressor ,rain gear and stuff in the tail bag.

Ive run alot of different oils I've been running 15w40 Motorcraft diesil oil for the past few months, thats one that I havent seen anybody use. I like it fairly well 2 royal purples, 1 casttrol and 1 lucas( Now Thats FRICKIN SCAREY)

mx4t , autozone is the cheapest place

Dutch I did 2 samples back in the first 10,000 miles, I did about 5 oil changes in the first 6000 mile, that was with rotella syn. I was seeing alot of contaminant even at 1000 mile intervals, between 6 to 9 ,000 mile I did the samples, Amsoil 15w40 generated the same wear numbers as the Rotlella syn but amsoil had double the miles. Both were out of spec on viscosity and flash point 1100mile on rotella and 2000 on Amsoil, there was also some fuel dilution. After about 10 or 15,000 mile My oil started holding up alot better, I havent felt the need to retest. I just wanted to see what the analisys said versus my eyeball on my oil dumps.

Something like a Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is about the only thing I'd run near 3k+. Mostly I do around 1,500 /2000 miles on the diesils, I can change the diesils 3 to 4 times for the cost, and the engine stays flushed out better. The problem is more the level of metal that builds up in time in your oil, it scrubs on everything, including clutch plates.

Yup, that was my think'n. I think the grips will be coming back off for install adjustment, If the heaters will melt gell, what chance does electrical tape stand

I had my airbox lid off today and my bike has the tall's in the rear short's in the front. K&N with 28k miles and an opened up airbix lid and the filter wasnt even dirty. 28,000 and not dirty, does that kind make ya wonder about the filtering?

Okay I just cjanged the spark plugs and airfilter in my 2006 model. didnt even pull a fairing or raise the rear of the tank. The front plugs are subseptible to dirt so blow out well with compressed air, the rear plugs are kept much cleaner. all my plugs removed looked like some slight wear but the gaps were still in spec at 27,000+ mile. I think 35,000 is an easy, course my bike has been subjected to leaded race fuel which tend to clean everything pretty. But the spark plug wells are like 2 feet Deep, okay not really, more like 7 inches deep, a magnet is a requirement, I couldnt believe how deep they wer though. disconnecting the direct coil connectors took alot of thought. They have a squeese release mechanism, pul too hard to pull apart. I used a large flat blade on the seam where the male female join , and slightly twist whle squeezing the release. But the Velocity stacks, assuming all the airboxes are the same, its quite simple, the airbox bottom in the rear is much lower than in the front, the tall stacks go there where the bottom is deeper, in the front has a raise bottom so shorts go there. BY stalling this way all the tops of the stacks are the same height for smoth air flow across them, if you put the tall ones on the higher bottom and any low ones on the deeper bottom. ' your just going to create alot of turbulance, and wont get smooth air flow. my airfilter barely could get light through it

I believe that as the potential source of your problem, good for you finding it! I've seen the "shorts in front talls in rear" recommendation before, but none of the half dozen factory Vtecs I've looked at had this config from the factory and I know Honda spent a lot of time setting up our air boxes! :thumbsup: MY o6 vfrabs has both short ones in the front and both tall ones in the rear , they had never been touched from the factory

Oh come on , its riduculus to assume I got used to poor forming Toyota, I never had any fuel systems issues on that vehicle , all it ran was Exxon superunleaded. It may be hard for you to believe, but you replace fuel filters very frequently as a Maintence item whether it needs it or not. But on that vehicle ,I put a timing belt on it, a battery, a distrubutor cap and rotor(80,000 mile spark plugs, and fann belts in 145,000 mile, it was actually in very mint condition. My last bike I ran 40,000 mile with no fuel filter at all Whats it matter though, unless the fliter clogs up or something there's no issue, but no I'm not replacing the fuel filter unless theres a reason to do so, and again if Honda Thought the Filter was good for only a certain time, they would put it in as a maintenance item. But heck no I'm not replacing my 06 VFR fuel filter till theres a reason, 25,000 mile and counting. Do I change the oil? more frequently than the filter, but oil and air contamination is much more an issue than fuel filter contamination as long as clean fuel substance is utilized.

The VFR fuel filter is a life time item unless somehow it gets contaminated, there's is no recommended replacement for it. I wouldnt touch or replace it without good reason. Life time filter??? How do you figure that? Why do they make replacement filters then? Its a pretty good idea to change it at least once every two or three years. If it clogs up you bike may run really lean and then it will run really hot...so I have heard. Will anyone else like to chime in on this Life time filter statement? :goofy: Nothing in my manual related to fuel filter replacement, so I would think they made it large enough to handle it, unless its subjected to alot of contaminant. Like rust water or bad fuel stations I had a toyaota I ran 145,000 mile on original fuel filter (but I traded the vehicle which was still fine), as long as it it doesnt get contaminated, its a life time item

The VFR fuel filter is a life time item unless somehow it gets contaminated, there's is no recommended replacement for it. I wouldnt touch or replace it without good reason.

my knees used to ride near the frame, quite uncomfortable on your knees, once I raised the seat height , my legs are more around the tank, its completely did away with sportbike leg crunch. If I ever get an aftermarket seat , I'l have it custom built a few inches taller

The gold valve orifice is very open and requires the proper shim stack to slow the oil flow, if you open your stock valve up utilizing stock shim stack, might as well go ahead and throw it in the trash now.

Mr.RC45 shows the same voltages at the same rpms... I've gone through extensive trouble shoot procedures and even changed the R/R twice and stator once... no joy... I'm not so hot when it comes to electrics so I'm watching the thread... right now I can't go 3 days without a external charge... it will just quit running... I went riding today and now I have the same voltage readings. I have 13.2 at idle, then voltage drop as RPM increases. It does seem to go back up to 12.7 when I reach 7000 RPM, but it is not steady. I need to fix this as I find it dangerous paying too much attention to the voltage meter and not the ride. I have replaced all three components last summer when I started having the clock reset to 12:00. :wheel: you have weak readings try cleaning all your contacts from stator and from rec red wire to battery and black ground wire,

I check my connections occasionally also, like you said you can loose 1/2 volt very easy with bad connection. I ran a charge test yesterday as a normal maintenance probe. Battery at 13.2volt, running at 1500 rpm 14.77volt That looks good

Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.3 - 0.4 ohm is that correct , i was thiking it should be more like 1kohm between the wires, but I could be wrong if you charge the battery will it charge to 13 volt , and sitting idle for couple hours still hold above 12.7, if it wont that's a weak battery

you know the 2 bottom fairing joints prt #45612 body tight fastener at pepboys works great, push button type can be used easily many times, They are like $1 for 2 . They only fit the bottom though cause of the clearance. But they are so simple and easy to operate it's the only choice for the bottom fairing joint IMO.

I found the purulator MC specific at Pepboys, semi oring and everything, Indentical to Honda filter, $6 Local dealer charging 9.99 recently went to 11.99, That was too much