Lorne

It'll just bolt right on aways trips me up, even with the smallest tasks. Of course, these little issues pose no problem to you. I'd love to hear your what you have to say about the SP1 a couple years down the road. And I bet I'm not alone.

Well, the answer to this and many other questions may be found in the service manuals. Conveniently, pdfs are available right here on VFRD - goto Browse--> Downloads to get your copy. Btw, according to Honda, both 6th & 8th Gen use a 14 mm master cylinder at the front, but different sizes on the rear. JZH may be able to verify these figures.

Looks good. Did you need/chose to reroute any cables/hoses?

I'm guessing that it takes a mill or sturdy drill press to keep the drill but centred. In any case I was too chicken to give it a try. Btw, that is a very tasty VFR you've made. I am a big fan of your work.

Oh, well, I guess my VTec just has extra character 🙁 I measured my handlebars and they are 29" wide, the rise is ~2½" (at the inboard point), and the control length is ~8½". If you wanted your bars higher you could fit a spacer under the lower clamp and fit longer fasteners. As a temporary test you could loosen and raise the whole assembly. Good luck.

Ah, yes, I have the same problem. Luckily for me the vibration was much reduced with the LSL kit & ally 'bars as compared to the stock clip-ons. Btw, as you also have a 5th gen, is there any difference in engine vibration between it and your 6th gen? I had '98 and a'99 VFR800 and both were much smoother that my VTec, as were my VFR750s and VTR1000Fs. The VTec is the first bike that I couldn't live with without a throttle lock.

I thought the only trouble with Throttlemeister bar ends was trying to fit them to aluminum bars, being thicker than steel.

You are correct, my mistake. If the risers were rotated 180° the centre of the handlebar would still be behind the ignition switch. Interference with the fork tops may be an issue, as you noted earlier.

Did you rotate the forks with these 'bars and check for clearance at full lock? Hard to tell from the photo just how wide your 'bars are, but they look wider than the set I got from LSL. If so, you'll probably run into issues with not just the throttle cables, but also the clutch line and the wiring harness. Take your time and double-check lock-to-lock to be sure that there are no surprises with any of these. Lorne

Another problem is that the handlebar will now block key access to the ignition.

By itself, the mounting location has zero to do with road feel. Where your hands are located, relative to the stock position, is what matters. And that is determined by the shape of the handlebar + the mounting location.

Like you, I didn't know what bend of handlebar to get. In the end I opted for LSL's AN1 bar. Not sure of the dimensions but it turns out that they suit me just fine so I haven't tried any alternatives. I found the throttle cables too short and ended up buying a set for the ST1300. Perhaps more patience and alternate routing would have resolved the problem. There is just a slight contact with the upper cowl at full lock, but no issues with the fuel tank. I still haven't gotten around to fitting bar-end weights. The AN1 bar is aluminum and the wall thickness prevents fitting the oe weights, and I haven't yet found a good alternative. Even so, the alloy bars still have much less vibration than the oe Honda 'bars. Vibration the more important reason I went to a tubular 'bar in the first place. Below is pic of my setup. Good luck,

Hi Lorne, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Methinks that is a view of Sierra Buttes from Gold Lake Highway, near Sierra City, Cal. Some fantastic roads & scenery in that vicinity.