Captain 80s

Couple things: "All fuses are good" Does that include the Main Fuse that is under a cover on the solenoid holder? I have to ask. Also, solenoids come in two styles and they are mirror images of each other. There is usually a "B" (Battery) and an "M" (Motor) molded into the plastic near the cable posts. If you got an opposite (and your original unit was really bad), you will need to re-pin the wires on the plug in the mirror image too. Also closely inspect the wires going into that plug. It is VERY common for those to be melted and burnt and can cause what you describe. Sometimes you don;t realize how bad it is until you really look close. Also, you can plug in your original solenoid just to see if you get any power again. Great choice in a VFR model and good luck.

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm driving at. Most screens that are cut like that, the top "plane" tends to match the angle of the top of the tank. Cheers!

It's this view that cements it for me. The shape of the relief/flare for the handlebars at full lock just flows better with the other bodywork pieces and tank. A little more organic looking. When final placement is done, trim the screen down a bit to compensate for the height proportions and you can even re-angle the top cut to (more) match the angle of the top of the tank. (If that makes sense)

I like them both. A big part of me likes the 1000F cowl. The larger proportions seem to work for me with the tank and tail.. Maybe trim the windshield down to reduce some overall "height". Anyway.... loving it!

With RED especially, my experience with ColorRite is... ColorRong

That says it all. Weight (unsprung), complexity, extra failure points in a critical system. Fucking stupid.

Did you have to return it? Seems like a machine shop could mod it pretty easily to work and still be ahead money wise.

There are many ways. I like to use a drift that is smaller than the slot. And I don't smash all the way down, but leave a small gap so I can easily get a small chisel in to release it later if I need to do some work.

If you can arrange a little help, it can be done with a normal car jack. I have done it by myself with one. Would have preferred not to, but I have.

Gotta pinch it a bit and get just part of the slot engaged with the bracket hole. Then keep pressure in that direction while you work your way around pushing in/thru a little at a time. Once you get some progress it will better stay at what you've accomplished so far without wanting to back out as easily. I know I pretty much just said the same thing I said earlier, but that's what works for me. And like I hinted at before, those are my least favorite to do, so I feel for ya.

I have an old flat blade scew driver that I shaped the tip into a soft arc that I use as a grommet remover / installer. Get it started and then start going around and pushing thru, while holding/applying pressure to not lose what you got so far.. Doesn't tear or damage them. That particular style, thick and solid on both sides, is one of the tougher Honda grommets tho I will say.

It doesn't have to be "D" shaped to be the correct length. Just like a float bowl o-ring doesn't have to be pre-formed to the bowl shape.

I'm surprised you didn't order my equivalent when you ordered your others. I've installed 3 or 4 now.

Yep... that Civic wheel looks sweet on there. 😉 Haha! Nice looking bike! Welcome!

Oh I hear it. And it sounds directly tied into the cam (gears) speed, which is probably not a good thing.

While I don't think this is the issue, one of my 500 Interceptors can spin the clutch push rod in certain conditions. The tip that is in the Clutch Slave goes to metal on metal and squeals. But you can make it go away by slightly pulling in the clutch to where the bearing on the clutch pressure plate takes over. Every now and then I need to put some moly paste in there. Good luck.

Here are the Honda versions I like to use. Incorporated "shoulder" so it can be torqued and not crush/crack bodywork. Thru single piece of Honda plastic: Thru 2 pieces of bodywork (like a seat cowl):

Zero problems going above or below spec when sourcing aftermarket. If it is proud enough to squish (but not excessive), and will stay in the groove on assembly, it will be just fine. Personally proven over and over. Sometimes a dab of red rubber grease in a tight corner can help hold for assembly. Usually this refers to float bowls

While I prefer the 120/70, a 120/60 is acceptable. Less sidewall, smaller diameter when comparing the same brand/model. 180/55 is perfectly suited for a 5.5" rear rim. It is rider preference between that and a 170/60. You might actually be restoring some geometry with that 120/60 front used in conjunction with the 180/55 rear. But losing some ground clearance.

You need to clarify the issue and explain some more symptoms/problems. Do you meaning "sticking" after the bike has been sitting for a while? As in, won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in?

Good progress! They do make silicone that isn't bright orange. 😉 Yes, hammer and chisel for the round cover works great.

It would be very rewarding to get a nicely equipped RVT1000R that wasn't so goddam nice that you weren't concerned about riding the piss out of it like it should be NOT a dig on your (ex) bike. I have a few bikes like that. It is liberating. Like driving my Honda Element that I bought used and not being a FREAK about door dings and stupid people. There's a spot... I'll take it. Let the fun of the new bike search begin.

There's a great bicycle detailing product for getting around the backside of a piston for cleaning after extending it. Gear Floss. You can soak it in a little Simple Green (or your preferred product) for a little help on a gunkier caliper too. I'm sure there's plenty of other things that can be used like this (like a shoe lace), but it's braided, a good size and not expensive.

Colorong

Your version (Non-US) has the fuel valve down to the left in the upper cowl? Make sure the cables that operate the Fuel Valve are installed/adjusted and working properly. Perhaps "ON" or "RES" really isn't. If your bike is not that version.... never mind and good luck.