vfrgiving

I'm glad I don't take motorcycle advice from Facebook. "chinese tires".. Shinko production is out of South Korea ... I can't speak to the Verge 2X, but I ran a set of Shinko Ravens on a VFR round trip cross country. No issues, and rear lasted to 10K. I recently (as in literally earlier this month) completed a round trip cross country on a 800lb cruiser running Shinko Journey with no issues. That rear is at 8K with a good 2-3K remaining. It has outlasted the much more expensive supposed premium brand I pulled off before departing. Go ride your 1200 and find out. 🫡

I accelerate out of corner exits when the bike is transitioning to upright and I've never had a tire on the street wear the sides before the center. 😕 My current go to for the 800 is Kenda KM1. I got 14,000 miles out of the last rear tire but I don't see that in stock size for the '97VFR. I see the Shinko Raven 009 is available in 170/60. I ran a set of the Ravens just prior to the KM1 on a cross country ride. That rear lasted 10,000 miles of which 5,200 was interstate use with luggage, hundreds of miles playing around in the mountains of California and the remainder was mixed use commuting/weekend rides once back. I'm running stock PSI and I probably don't ride as hard as some ya'll.

How is this even possible? I get backroads have corners but are you dragging a knee pulling out of the driveway? You live near Maryville and commute on two wheels to Tapoco?

Why not just drop in a 5th Gen engine? That's been done before.

What the Captain said. Your question is too vague to answer. I've had Shinko Podiums on a lightweight 400cc sport bike only last 3500 miles to Ravens on a VFR800 make it to 10,000 miles. What series tire is it?

Did you pull and look inside the drive sprocket cover? (Item 1). The slave cylinder for the clutch (Item 9) bolts to that cover. If items 11 and/or 13 have a defect they will lose fluid at the slave cylinder and dribble down into the drive sprocket cover. Have a look at the business end of item 11 that pushes on the clutch rod. Make sure nothing looks wet. DO NOT pull in the clutch lever when you have the sprocket cover and slave cylinder off the bike. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2002/vfr800-ac-interceptor/water-pump

Brake fluid doesn't just vanish. Pull the slave cylinder. Could be a breached seal or corroded piston down there.

As Tirso mentioned, you can use their universal big hub adapter. I bought one when I ordered the changer. The one wheel I can think of that might be out of the Rabaconda's scope is the rare solid disc rear rim. Not common, but they are out there... Late 80's Super Magnas for example. I'm not sure how the rim would be secured to keep from spinning.

I've had a Rabaconda for a few months now. Used it a few times already. HUGE improvement over fighting with irons. The big test will be some monster cruiser tires here in a few. I will be swapping out Pirelli Night Dragons for some Shinko SE890 Journey.

If you're flogging the snot out of it, expect everything to be heat soaked. Fan may run for a bit longer. Try letting it warm up to fan switch temp, or some normal riding first and do a fan cycle test. Will give you a good baseline before you go all Isle of Man.

I haven't owned a 1200, but from what I know of that bike it makes 170hp. High HP bikes will generate a ton of heat, that's why Ducatis have somewhat of a reputation for air frying family jewels. Are the fans cycling off? I would expect in 50 degree weather a fan should run for a bit then satisfy the temp switch and shut off.

FYI, the physical copy of the service manual I have says DO NOT mess with the lock nut. MOTWYW

Grum is correct on that the secondary MC on the left caliper requires a rotational force to activate it's piston circuit on the rear. You could try and force this. With the bike on the center stand, use a soft jaw bar clamp behind the secondary MC and front of fork tube to compress the MC plunger a bit. See if that starts locking up the rear wheel.

Ricks's has stator cover gaskets. They're $13. I'm running one on my '98 with a Rick's stator. https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Honda-Stator-Cover-Gasket-25_109

You folks in Europe enjoy, like the NT1100 this probably won't come stateside. 🙃

Am I having a stroke, or was that painted KTM orange? 🤨

Any of you remember playing Telephone (Chinese Whispers) in grade school? Maybe that's what's going on here. Original owner may have simply visited the TT years ago, that turned into it came from the TT, awarded to the winner.. and here we are.

In my time with a 2000, I didn't have any issues with the wax unit. It's also worth mentioning that all 6th and 8th gens have a wax unit too. It's a different part than the 2000/2001, but they still have them.

The hose with the sharp bend (thermostat pod) is no longer available from Honda and the pair is usually not included in the silicone kits available from 3rd parties. AS3 has repro'd them in silicone, and they are available separately. https://www.ebay.com/itm/145298195420 Another reference drawing is the "water pump" parts fiche available to view on any site. Hose with sharp bend molded goes to small nipple on thermostat pod. Other hose goes to a coolant elbow that is bolted to the left side of the engine near the V.

I'm counting on the rain this week washing away the massive amounts of salt and brine that were put down. Only reason I've been taking the car these past few days

I'm not trying to rain on VFR80025th's parade, but since we're talking printing off VFR history stuff this seemed a good place. I'm not sure how many visit the other site, but a while ago I posted a vectorized version of the 5th gen engine cutaway illustration from the Honda service manual. Vector files are great because they can be scaled to any size without loss in quality, something normal raster images can't do. I later followed this by colorizing the cam gear train. The attached .zip files will be the vector file and high resolution images for the cam gear train so don't bother with the low quality images inserted into this post. vfr - black - red.zip vfr - white -red.zip VectorFR.zip

FYI, the bottom disc with the bypass holes is held in place with just a side-mount external retaining ring. If the new T-stat you're getting is assembled the same, I don't see why you couldn't just swap the disc over from the outgoing OEM t-stat. Should only take a minute and you wouldn't have to drill anything. That wouldn't do anything for top plate fitment, but it would be one less thing you have to modify. An important measurement I didn't give prior is from bottom of top flange to bottom of bypass disc. That appears to be 37mm

Hurricane kits will do that. 👍

I always shop NFL merch when I need moto gear. 🤔