JZH

To save some dough, you can basically buy a used tool kit from any Honda off eBay, and most of the tools will be the same (you can check the parts fiche in advance if you want). Then you only have to buy the ones that are missing from Honda. (Better yet, buy some good quality tools instead of the "HONDA" marked cheapies...might actually work out cheaper!) Ciao, JZH

Very interesting, thanks. Ciao, JZH

Someday, I will find a way to get a 3d scanner... I wonder if they're available for rent? If I had one, I would be happy to scan my NOS sidestand cover... Ciao, JZH

Sorry, but I had to chuckle at this! Honda doesn't make bearings (or many of the other parts they use on their bikes and then sell as replacements), so you will never find a bearing with the name "Honda" on it. On the box or packaging, sure--that's why there's an OEM markup of 50-100%... KOYO is one of Honda's OEM suppliers, so the quality will be on-par with any of the world's major bearing manufacturers. Moreover, most (but not all) of the bearings and seals Honda uses are standard automotive sizes and configurations, so once you decipher the codes, you can shop around and fit bearings from your favourite manufacturer. Years ago I saved a large chunk of money by replacing the bearings in my 3rd gen with new ones sourced from various suppliers and manufacturers. Only a few of them were available at a reasonable price via the Honda distribution system. The table below is from 2005, so a few years out of date (!), but it will give you the idea... Honda VFR750F-P—Chassis Bearings and Seals (Based on 1993 U.K.-model w/1998 VTR1000F fork conversion. Read the Notes below. Use at your own risk!) Description Type # Honda Part Number Original ID numbers ID OD W Comments Source Price each swing-arm main bearing—left needle roller 1 91071-MR7-003 HMK 2830 Japan UU NTN 28 37 30 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals City DSS ACB £11.61 £9.08 £7.00 swing-arm dust seal—left 1 91202-MR7-003 SDO 28 37 4 A2 ACS 28 37 4 City DSS ACB £2.20 £2.85 £2.50 swing-arm main bearing—right radial ball 2 91072-MR7-003 6904 Japan WS NTN 20 37 9 no integrated dust seals City DSS ACB £4.20 £7.74 £5.85 swing-arm dust seal—right 1 91214-MR7-003 SDO 26 37 5 A5 ACS 26 37 5 (26 37 7 supplied by City-might fit) City DSS ACB £2.20 £2.85 £4.20 swing-arm pivot collar B inner race 1 52106-MR7-000 N/A DSS £13.06 suspension linkage bearing (at swing-arm) needle roller 1 91071-KV3-005 BHM 1725 Japan Koyo 17 24 25 no cage for rollers, no integrated dust seals DSS £11.51 suspension linkage bearing (in shock connecting rod & shock arm) needle roller 4 91072-MJ0-003 7E-HMK 1725 Japan WS NTN 17 24 25 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals A&P DSS ACB £8.50 £8.87 £6.50 suspension linkage bearing (at shock absorber) needle roller 1 91072-KT7-003 7W-HMK 1720 NTN 17 24 20 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals A&P DSS ACB £8.50 £8.88 £ suspension linkage oil seal 8 91262-MG7-005 NOK AE8444H 17 27 5 A&P DSS ACB £1.87 £2.06 £ suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) inner race 1 52462-ML7-000 N/A 17 DSS £8.82 suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at shock absorber) inner race 1 52477-KT7-000 N/A 17 DSS £5.08 suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at swing arm) inner race 1 52463-KV3-000 N/A 17 DSS £5.51 suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) inner race 1 52463-MT4-000 N/A 17 DSS £7.32 wheel bearing—front radial ball 2 91054-MN8-741 6004 20 42 12 integrated black dust seals on both sides DSS ACB £11.00£5.50 wheel bearing dust seal—front 2 91257-KA3-711 AE1544F NOK 28 42 8 DSS ACB £3.80 £2.00 sprocket carrier bearing radial ball 1 91061-MT4-003 DF 0768 LU Japan NTN 35 55 20 integrated (red) dust seals on both sides City-5wk DSS DSS-wait ACB-3wk £25.20 £50.22£37.64£16.40 sprocket carrier dust seal 1 91258-ML7-003 SDO 45 55 5 ACS 45 55 5 DSS £3.90 sprocket carrier o-ring 1 91352-MN8-003 N/A 2 City DSS £0.42 £0.82 rear hub bearing—right needle roller 1 91062-MR7-003 8Q-NK 50x62x25-1 Japan WS NTN 50 62 25 caged rollers, integrated black dust seal on one side A&P DSS-wait DSS £10.69£30.82£41.09 rear hub bearing dust seal 1 91284-MR7-003 SDO 50 62 5 ACS B8 50 62 5 City DSS £2.38 £4.75 rear hub bearing—left radial ball 2 91061-ML0-731 6908RS Japan Koyo 40 62 12 integrated black dust seal on one side – plus plastic linking ring to lock both bearings together (leaving single black seals facing outwards on each side) City DSS DSS-wait ACB £33.22£50.22£37.67£14.40 steering stem bearing—upper angular contact ball (1) 91015-KT8-005 32005X Japan MCI 26 47 15 (note ID—must be 26mm) ACB £8.40 steering stem bearing—upper tapered roller (1) 91015-425-832 N/A 26 47 15 (note ID—must be 26mm) DSS steering stem bearing dust seal—upper 1 53214-KA4-701 N/A 27 48 4 metal ring with rubber edge DSS £2.47 steering stem bearing—lower angular contact ball (1) 91016-KT8-005 32006JR Japan MCI 30 55 17 DSS steering stem bearing—lower tapered roller (1) 91016-371-000 N/A 30 55 17 (32006JRRS— has integral dust seal) Moore £13.20 steering stem bearing dust seal—lower (1) 53214-371-010 N/A 31 56 4 metal ring with rubber edge DSS £3.50 UK-based Sources Key: ACB = A.C. Belting Ltd, 58 Kingsholm Road, Gloucester GL1 3BQ (01452) 410 968 (Jason) A&P = Angus & Perthshire Bearings, Unit 62A, Buccaneer Way, Perth Airfield, Scone, Perthshire PH2 6PL (01738) 553 479 City = City Seals and Bearings Ltd, 23/25 Stevenson Road, Sheffield S9 3XG (0114) 243 5343 (Jason) DSS = David Silver Spares, Unit 14, Masterlord Industrial Estate, Station Road, Leiston, Suffolk IP16 4JD (01728) 833 020 DSS-wait = Optional 2-3 week wait, resulting in a 25% discount. Moore = Moore International, 104 Ashley Road, Parkstone, Poole, Dorset BH14 9BN (01202) 462 220 Notes: Steering stem bearings were originally angular-contact ball bearings; it is common to replace with tapered roller bearings, though these are more difficult to adjust properly. Tapered rollers are available from many aftermarket sources, but also from Honda (note that these Honda part numbers have not been verified). Both types of steering stem bearings use separate metal/rubber dust seals; but the optional tapered roller 32006RS lower bearing incorporates a dust seal, so no separate seal is required. The top bearing used on many Hondas (including the VFR750FL-P) is a non-standard size. Although it is often marked "32005", it is actually a 32005 (this is an ISO standard bearing number) with a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect. Needless to say, this means it won't fit onto the steering stem no matter how hard you hit it. <G> Some bearing manufacturers helpfully call this bearing "32005/26", but some do not! Front wheel bearings are for a ’94-’97 FR-FV, since the VSource.org FP uses a front wheel from a later RC36. Ciao, JZH

I did exactly the same on my yellow bike. However, having since gone down the "motorsports wiring" rabbit hole, instead of soldering I would bunch them all together and apply a massive brass crimp (maybe a Sealey 16mm2 or 25mm2 ring terminal with the ring part cut off), crimped using a Draper battery terminal crimping tool (the kind you slam with a sledge hammer), followed by adhesive-lined heat shrink with the end pinched off. The ground wire can be used with that method as well. Ciao, JZH

Aka, the "dropped bike indicator"... Ciao, JZH

Where did you get them? Cheers, JZH

Eastern Beaver (in Japan) probably has them, plus Kojaycat in the UK and possibly Corsa-Technic in the USA. The electronics majors sometimes have relevant connectors and terminals (and if they do, they're potentially a lot cheaper), but they frequently do not stock the automotive speciality ones. Ciao, JZH

Good tip, re bicyclist tools. "It’s also important that you prepare the relevant component you’re fitting. It’s always worth adding a lower-strength threadlock or an anti-seize to prevent a bolt from loosening over time, but it also allows you to tighten the bolt up to a lower torque. You should always have suitable threadlock or anti-seize on any bolts – never have them dry." However, this^^ is potentially bad advice... Most torque specs are for "lightly lubricated" fasteners. True, they are not "dry", but neither are they the same as for threads slathered in anti-seize or thread lock. Because torque wrenches read drag, any time you decrease drag by making the threads slippery you affect the torque setting. Beware that you cannot use the OEM torque reading "as is" if you change something which increases thread lubrication. It is therefore recommended that the torque setting be reduced 25% - 50% if you lubricate threads where the OEM torque spec does not call for any special lubrication. (YMMV.) Ciao, JZH

Very interesting what you've done with the rear passenger footpeg brackets. It's great to see that they can be re-shaped in a way that looks like they could have come that way from Hamamatsu. FWIW, I believe I just deleted those brackets entirely on my FL/FP, foregoing the side handle and helmet lock, and using a separate (hidden) remote-release for the seat latch. (I believe because it's been five years since I last worked on it, unfortunately!) Because it's been so long, I'm not sure what I had planned to do with the front rear cowl bolts--maybe just put the bolts back in, backed by a fender washer and locknut? I don't think those bolts are necessary to hold the rear cowl on. Ciao, JZH

ISTR the front sprocket is supposed to be able to move somewhat. How much is another question. But if Honda meant it to be rigidly attached to the output shaft, it probably wouldn't have been designed like that. Ciao, JZH

Judging from the photos, it's for either a jet airplane, a robot, a tractor or a car. Ciao, JZH

Who knows? But the unsealed OEM-type connectors should probably be replaced with Metri-Pack 630 (or something else sealed which can handle the Amps). Ciao, JZH

I had a Facet solid state pump on my bike for a bit, but the plumbing and mounting aren't as easy as fitting an OEM-type pump. Most of those Facets generate too much pressure, but there is one version which matches. I second the stainless beer line parts idea. Love those u-bends. Lifesaver! Ciao, JZH

Sorry, don't know the RAL number, but is the BB blue the same as the 2000-01 VFR800Fi (UK-spec) blue, Candy Tahitian Blue PB-215C? I know that other Hondas used the same colour, because I snagged an exactly matching blue front mudguard from a CBR RR for my SP1 fork conversion. Ciao, JZH

When people de-link and re-use the OEM rear caliper, they usually need to change the OEM 1/2" master for a 14mm master from a CBR600F?RR?. I don't know the piston area of the Brembos, but the piston areas of the OEM masters are below. All it takes is a calculator... 1/2" 126.7mm2 14mm 153.9mm2 5/8" 197.9mm2 11/16" 239.5mm2 3/4" 285mm2 Ciao, JZH

Alternatively... https://www.polymax.co.uk/o-ring-18-3mm-id-x-2-4mm-cs-nitrile-bla-70-sha Not an exact match, but Honda certainly doesn't make its own o-rings and 12x for £3.74 isn't too bad a price. The point being, you don't have to go back to Honda for standard parts like these. Ciao, JZH

If it's the original shock, it's almost 30 years old, and those OEM Showas generally don't last even three years before leaking through the seals! I had mine rebuilt by Lindemann back in the day, but even that didn't last three years. Ciao, JZH

What do you propose to use as the base for the digital display? The good news is that the VFR750 is very simply wired. The speedo uses a simple Hall-effect pulse generator, the tach pulse comes directly from the ECU, water temp is a simple sender, fuel gauge a simple potentiometer sender (US models also have a low fuel sensor inside the tank). Indicator lights for turn signals, neutral, side stand and high beam. Whatever you use for the digital part, the inputs shouldn't cause you much pain. And the wiring diagrams for the US models should be on this forum somewhere--everything fits onto one page. (Of course, I say all this off the top of my head!) Good luck with your project. Ciao, JZH

It is, or course, the Yellow Peril. Ciao, JZH

VFRD/WiLD header group buy timing not good! Fingers crossed... Ciaom, JZH

Lookin' racey... Which 900RR swingarm did you end up using? The RRW/X version Ken mentioned? How much shorter is the swing arm? It looks shorter, anyway! Ciao, JZH

That'll do. Was the bike just positioned incorrectly on the roller? Ciao, JZH

I was going to refer you the my build thread "Beware the Yellow Peril", but it's so old it seems to have vanished... Yes, I still have it, but it is on my yellow bike in California, but I'm seriously thinking of moving it to Europe soon. If so, I will definitely be discussing some oiling system modifications with Seb! Ciao, JZH [Found the thread, thanks to Google! ]

Since I've got one A&A supercharger kit and two 5th gens, I have often thought about making my own. It wouldn't be rocket science to reverse-engineer what A&A did and assemble a new kit of parts doing pretty much the same thing, but neither would it be "cheap". Ethically, once he abandoned the market, he can't really blame people for thinking about resorting to "self-help". Unfortunately, I didn't measure anything before I installed mine, so I'd have to remove it from the bike to do that. If only someone with mad engineering and fabrication skills had had such a kit in his hands for an extended period of time before installing it... Ciao, JZH