Grum

Do you need antifreeze protection where you live? Specs for 80205 state this! "SuperCool does not contain antifreeze and its freezing point is 32 degrees F, or 0 degrees C"

The 20amp Fan Fuse blowing randomly (when engine doesn't need fan cooling) throws a whole new light on the subject. You have a short to Ground somewhere between the Fuse and the Fan Motor. This is a Black/Blue wire. When you had the fan off the bike did you closely examine the wiring of the fan? Did any of the wiring look like is was crushed or damaged? Did you try running the fan while it was out of the bike? Without knowing exactly how the previous owner wired whatever, if in doubt remove it and re assess the situation, see if you no longer blow the fuse. Your headlight/voltmeter wiring mod looks good. Note that with the distance from the battery, interconnections, the relay etc. you will have a small amount of voltage drop, meaning, the actual battery voltage will be seen as slightly less on the voltmeter, compare a reading directly at the battery to what your new meter reads, you'll see what I mean. Ultimately if you're confident the fan is good and you randomly continue to blow the fuse but you cannot find where the short is then the Black/Blue wire may need to be cut from the fuse end and bypassed. This means joining a new wire at the fuse end and running it to the closest point to the fan. Have a good look at the wiring diagram. Good luck.

Can you recall, when the fuse blows, does this happen randomly Or only at the temperature you'd expect the Fan to be operating at (208 to 216degF)? Do you have any additional non original wiring added to the bike? If so, could it be wired into the Fan Fuse circuit? Just trying to establish the possibility of excess load or short on the Fuse wiring between the Fuse and the Fan motor.

Is this Amazonian coolant High Quality, long life, Silicate and Borate free??

WDIV. Just confirming - Are you replacing the Fan Fuse with a 20amp Fuse?

Unless you have a short between the fuse and fan then most likley its the fan itself. The thermoswitch can't be the issue as it's job is to create a short between the fan and Ground which makes it run.

Make sure you can spin the fan freely by hand, and that there is nothing within the fan shroud that could jam the fan blade. Stationary in the garage you could simply remove the Black wire connection to the fan thermoswitch and with Ignition to On Ground this wire and the fan should spin up. Try this a few times to verify fan ops. If the fuse blows doing this and the fan spins freely then the motor has most likely developed some form of internal short. Good Luck.

Yep point taken Squirrelman completely agree. A new or rebuilt dry engine is most certainly the exception to the general rule.

Interesting the oil filter pre fill process!! I can imagine it would create a bit of a mess trying this on a horiziontal mounted VFR fitting. Never seen this recomended in any Service or Owners manual. Haven't suffered any ill effects from not prefilling an oil filter. There is always a good micro film of oil on all the internals and oil pressure recovery on start up is generally very quick. As always YMMV.

Isn't this a kind of "how long is a piece of string" topic? Just so many variables. - acceleration rate from stationary. - up shift, down shift technique. - slow riding technique, use of clutch friction zone. - type of friction modifiers in the oil you use - etc! For info, previous vfr 94,000kms and current 8gen vfr 92,000kms. No clutch issues at all.

What does the fuse holder, wiring, and the inline joiner look like, anything like the picture above? You could purchase one of these from any good automotive store. (See attached) Solder and sleeve this into the existing wiring eliminating the inline joiner. Have you re-measured that 8v you had since replacing the fuse, has it increased? Suggest you clip your meter black lead to the battery Negative terminal, using your wiring diagram follow the Black/white wire back from where you measured 8v to the 18P Blue connector, probe the wire both sides of the connector see if one side has the 8v and the other 12v if so you've found the fault, if not then follow the wire up to the ESR Relay measure it both sides of the Relay. Keep doing this all the way back to the Main Fuse and ultimately the Positive battery terminal. Somewhere you should find where the Voltage drop is occurring. Perhaps you've already found the issue being the Main Fuse! Good luck.

What is the state of Main Fuse B 30amp? Check this for an overheated discoloured fuse and wiring as it can suffer badly from high resistance joints and burn ups (see attached). Main Fuse B is the 12v supply via the Engine Stop Relay for ALL your EFI stuff on the Black/White wire, it also directly feeds the Ignition Coils, and, as you mentioned, you should be seeing Battery Voltage not 8v on this wire, most likely the cause of all your problems. The other weak link is the Blue 18P connector where this voltage goes to and from the Engine Stop Relay, high resistance joints can develop within the pins and sockets of the Blue connector. Trust you have the wiring diagram and Service Manual for your bike, they can be downloaded from this forum? For info - Make sure you have NO accessories or anything wired into Main Fuse B 30amp wiring as this power source is dedicated to the EFI system and should not be messed with. Once you've got the 12v restored on the Black/White wire clear all the old historical codes from the ECM, then start the bike and see what fault codes reappear, if any. Keep us posted with whatever you find. Good luck.

Hi Skids. Sounds like you're up to a lot of fun with gen5. Sorry can't help you much, but I think you're up for serious trouble sourcing "NGK Titanium spark plugs"! Reckon you're thinking of Iridium, the ones you want for a 5gen are CR9EHIX-9. Could enjoy an ice cold Chang myself damn hot over here too. Cheers.

Good job bmart. That is a nice clean example, as long as it's all working ok, that's all that matters.

Hi bmart. If you're confident enough to remove the back off the instrument panel. A good inspection of all copper tracks and Phillips screws for tightness would be worth it. There are numerous examples of corrosion and open circuit tracks effecting lighting and the LCD ops. They can easily be repaired by simply bridging the open break or corroded tracks with solder, tinned copper wire and solder, or a solder and wire link. Attached picture is one example of a LCD with problems and a simple repair, note the corroded track circled in red. Good luck. Cheers.

Yep 6gen balanced, 5gen is different. Also check your throttle cable free play, and make sure there is no change in idle rpm when moving the steering to both extremes. I find setting free play to a minimum without effecting the above helps with off idle throttle control, YMMV.

Seems to me a pointless waste of time doing all this Rapid Bike stuff Without checking the Starter Valves First! Otherwise you end up trying to mask out a fundamental issue that needed addressing first. I've not experienced the throttle issues you're talking about with any of the four Fuel Injected VFR's I've owned! Other than two of them needing minor SV synching.

Hi Bmart. If it was my bike, I'd go through those fuses and replace every one of them, they are most likely original and show signs of corrosion or oxidization on the legs. Give the contacts a wash with something like Metho on a firm small brush, then fit the new fuses with a small amount of Ox-Gard on the legs of each fuse. Given the not so good look of your Sub Fuses, have a good look at the state of your two Main 30amp Fuses. Do the same for the three legged Clutch diode, cleaning its contacts, and lightly shine up the Diode Legs with very fine emery paper or similar, and also a coating of Ox-Gard on its legs before re-inserting. As for your instrument LCD. Most definelty the two main connectors making pressure contact to the PCB are a cause for the LCD to go blank(not the only cause!), as they can develop high resistance contacts. Again a good clean of both PCB copper contacts and the connector contacts then a light coating of Ox-Gard will help greatly. Do this then reassess the LCD situation. Good Luck.

Hey Pete. Save your money, the plugs on an 8gen are good for way more than twice the 30,000k's you've done. I decided to replace mine at 60,000ks they looked excellent and the gap was still in spec and the bike had absolutely no running issues. I wouldn't hesitate if need be in refitting the originals (which I've kept) and run them for another say 30,000k's. The OEMs are NGK IMR9D-9H's, a top quality Iridium and Platinum long life plug. NGK specify a design life (guide only) for these plugs at 100,000 miles !!! Though I'd definitely not run them out to that distance. YMMV. Cheers.

No worries Phil. Good to know you have a reliable Grub of a mechanic on your side to help you out. Cheers.

Hi Phil. Are you looking at doing the chain replacement yourself? For info Yamaha World in S.A. Have the Gold/Black D.I.D.525VX3 124 link chain for $144.99 delivered, a great chain but you will need to cut off links to get the chain to 110 links inclusive of the master link. Cheers.

Agree, was just a thought, but this guy certainly did it. Good luck hope its all sorted ASAP.