Grum

Hi Bmart. If it was my bike, I'd go through those fuses and replace every one of them, they are most likely original and show signs of corrosion or oxidization on the legs. Give the contacts a wash with something like Metho on a firm small brush, then fit the new fuses with a small amount of Ox-Gard on the legs of each fuse. Given the not so good look of your Sub Fuses, have a good look at the state of your two Main 30amp Fuses. Do the same for the three legged Clutch diode, cleaning its contacts, and lightly shine up the Diode Legs with very fine emery paper or similar, and also a coating of Ox-Gard on its legs before re-inserting. As for your instrument LCD. Most definelty the two main connectors making pressure contact to the PCB are a cause for the LCD to go blank(not the only cause!), as they can develop high resistance contacts. Again a good clean of both PCB copper contacts and the connector contacts then a light coating of Ox-Gard will help greatly. Do this then reassess the LCD situation. Good Luck.

Hey Pete. Save your money, the plugs on an 8gen are good for way more than twice the 30,000k's you've done. I decided to replace mine at 60,000ks they looked excellent and the gap was still in spec and the bike had absolutely no running issues. I wouldn't hesitate if need be in refitting the originals (which I've kept) and run them for another say 30,000k's. The OEMs are NGK IMR9D-9H's, a top quality Iridium and Platinum long life plug. NGK specify a design life (guide only) for these plugs at 100,000 miles !!! Though I'd definitely not run them out to that distance. YMMV. Cheers.

No worries Phil. Good to know you have a reliable Grub of a mechanic on your side to help you out. Cheers.

Hi Phil. Are you looking at doing the chain replacement yourself? For info Yamaha World in S.A. Have the Gold/Black D.I.D.525VX3 124 link chain for $144.99 delivered, a great chain but you will need to cut off links to get the chain to 110 links inclusive of the master link. Cheers.

Agree, was just a thought, but this guy certainly did it. Good luck hope its all sorted ASAP.

Well, this may be a long shot, but I do recall a guy who incorrectly assembled the clutch Slave Cylinder. He actually fitted the slave piston back the front! It caused the same effect, he also thought that the push rod was too long. Guess its worth checking.

Great effort Dutchy. That "wee dram" will have you tip toeing through the tulips in no time! Cheers

Hey Dangeruss. Your black 5gen with the yellow VFR emblem looks fantastic. Got any nice pics of her in one piece? Great way of keeping ya bike healthy with a workout of weights!

Hi Phil. Be interested in knowing how it goes. 5 years ago I only removed all the Flapper hardware to free up some under tank space and Only because Honda had removed this system from later 8gens. I've noticed absolutely no degradation in performance or fuel economy after some 40,000k since removal. As for the Snorkel mod, I tried this on my 6gen, a waste of time, just makes air intake louder.

Thanks Cogs. That's a great story and fantastic having the mechanic backup your findings, it also reinforces you were most certainly doing things right, and I would never doubt your experience and expertise. I stand corrected, yours is now the second bike I've heard of where all vtec valves were tight! Cheers

That's really strange to hear every VTEC valve being tight, never heard of that before, (along with 6 out of 8 main valves) especially when you consider the VTEC valves are hardly used in comparison to the main valves! 61,000k's is not a lot of mileage! I seriously wonder what oil was used, what the service intervals were and how it was ridden or abused by the previous owner? Better not mention how many k's my 2014 8gen has done without a valve check!!!! Good luck with it, the 8gen is an incredibly reliable bike!

Hi Grum, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi m8. You are correct I purchased a small tube of the stuff a fair while ago online. Sorry I don't have any reference of my purchase. I do remember it being an American company I purchased it from, not ebay. Just do a bit of googling. Good luck. Cheers.

For switch lubricant and protection. Ox-Gard.

Oh dear, sad to see your odometer has latched into full test mode, this could be a costly repair requiring a new instrument panel.....................Ah but wait are you up to 143,051k's wow, incredible! All 8's is a service trigger letting you know its due for it's first oil change, she's only just run in! Well done RC79....Magic set of numbers. Any issues with the bike up to now? Gotta love the 8gen. Cheers.

+1 Cogswell for the Michelin PR2's, my go to tires as well. For good all round performance, longevity and price.....a great tire. Probably not the best for high performance riders! However if you're like me....Faster than slow riders and slower than fast riders! They are excellent.

Dutchy, you need to have your blood pressure and cholesterol checked. You might also need a bigger bike and new riding gear before too long!

Hi Mike. Assume you mean the LCD. Before replacing this. Have you confirmed that all the mounting screws for the LCD are clean and making good contact with the PCB copper track pads? Have you gone over each copper pad with a multimeter on low ohms or buzzer mode to confirm each copper pad for the LCD has continuity back to either of the two main incoming connectors? Corrosion and broken copper tracks at the back of the Instrument Panel are a common cause of LCD and indicator light issues. The tracks can easily be repaired by soldering shorting wires. Attached is a repair example, the red wire is bypassing the open circuit copper track shown with the two red circles.

All the Girls tell me that.......Cogswell, you're not a girl are you? I'm a bit concerned about you!

Holy Cow. Why are these pickups so frigging HUGE! Guess the owner needs a turning circle the size of a football field! Such a shame, your bike looked to be well clear of that monstrosity, the idiot obviously not used to the size of the monster! Didn't even straighten his already turned wheels to avoid you before moving off!

Ah good point. So you have been studying your Owners Manual. I'm sure the reasoning is that in the USA, the 8gen comes in the two versions Standard and Deluxe. The standard base model does not have the centre stand. Think by having the manual state Sidestand covers both situations. All 6gen versions had both side and center stands....as far as I'm aware. My chain slack really doesn't vary between Sidestand and Center Stand measurements. So I have always checked and adjusted it just like the 6gen, being on the center stand, with no issues whatsoever. So, just use the same method as per your 6gen. You might also notice in the Owners Manual, Specifications Section that it states Idle Speed is "non adjustable" ! Wrong, it has the same idle speed adjustment as the 6gen, its just on the opposite side, just above and forward of the clutch slave cylinder.

Just a standard good quality set of Allen keys! No not in the kit. It only has a small length 5mm key in the toolkit. No need to torque these bolts, or have Hercules tighten them, just nice and firm by hand will be more than adequate. YMMV.