KanadianKen

I figure since I can't use the new Ohlins Spring I got from that Ebay deal, I'll put it to good use anyways. ITs summertime, its hot, and beer needs to be cool. Real cool. I will place the Ohlins spring in the freezer for several days, and then when at the optimum temperature - I will use it as a beer holder. The beer can reside inside the spring, and the frozen steel will transfer the cold into the glass bottle, chilliung it to the perfect temperature. What will the rest of you guys do - that bought one, or two of these springs?

looking good WIll! :thumbsup:

how much beer did you drink over those 20 days? that would be a marathon of consumption I figure. Way to go!!!!

QDawg, i haven't stripped the electrical tape off my bikes wiring harness to get at that yellow junction block. So far my bikes been ok - and the blue connector mod - and the RR Monitor Wire "fix" are what I"ve done to premptively avoid the hassles others have sufferred. As for wiring your relay - I'll see what I can find for you. It isn't that difficult. Back in a bit. :thumbsup: EDIT _ go here - it'll layout where you need to connect things!! http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

My good buddy out on the left coast of Canada, Mookiethemagnificent - phew thats a mouthful - bought a VFR on my suggestion, and recently had some battery/electrical gremlins to sort out. Being as I'm not there to help him - I figured I could show him how to fix or pre-empt the blue connector ground connection issue AND pre-empt the problem on my own bike. Here's a quick summary of what I did. (As luck would have it my soldering iron decided it was too hot out to work properly, so instead of soldering the connections, they are hard crimped, and then electric tape covered.) First thing - locate the blue connector under the left side fairing, hidden inside a crappy little plastic cover. Locte the green wires on both sides of the connector. These are the wires you need to work with. The goal is to create an additional path ACROSS the blue connector - as well as create an additional ground location for these wires. I used a knife to carefully shave off a small (1 cm) length of green sheathing from each green wire - on each side of the blue connector. Next - I needed to find a secondary ground location to attach the soon to be created "jumper" wire. Found the 8 mm bolt that attached to the frame - just under the left of the gas tank. With that located, I needed to create the jumper wire. HEre's what I made: Wire is 14 gauge, and has a ring terminal crimped onto the end to attach to the frame near the left side of the gas tank. I stripped out a small section of sheathing to make the contact with the aft side of the blue connector (green wire) and the end piece to connect to the forward green wire. Next - I used some crimp connectors to attach the white Jumper wire to the already exposed copper inside the green wires. Its basic stuff - but it worked great: Once I was sure that the connections were super tight - I wrapped them in electric tape, double layers. All thats left in the process is to put the fairing back on. HOpe this helps explain how this fix can be accomplished with basic tools, and minimal expense. Might have been a $2.00 fix. It is not a difficult task to complete - and even if your blue connector with green wires isn't "bad" why wait till it goes bad and strands you?

DAmn - that sucks! Sorry to hear you wrecked. If its any consolation - I have a left 5th Gen Signal - but I'm sure shipping might be a bit of a beeeatch...... (Anyone in North America heading for Aus soon?)

Helped Banshee install Radars Sliders on the 99 Yellow beauty today. Things went really well. Radars product is amazing... Super easy to do on a 5th gen. Banshee will post up photos of the results..... Good stuff Darren! :thumbsup:

awesome stuff!!! but why go to all that trouble to have an engine WHINE at you ? :goofy:

Cool - glad things worked out. Next batch of Eliminators to be ready for Sale Wednesday!

Sorry Marty - I blew the damn thing at just about everyone near me - sorry you missed it. Ok - I'll load up and head back. Be there in about 20 hours....... :thumbsup:

Good stuff Rich - thanks for sharing the bottle "how to". Looks great!

Well done!! I'd love to see how you did the coolant bottle - any tricks or tips to share? How were the nerves while cutting the fairings?

I am in week 3 waiting for some items from California... Sent via USPS. I know how it feels.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=355900 the above link to the original thread may help you out.....

I should have said that a squirt of WD 40 - or some other lube in the guides might help. Unless you were literally unable to get the 1/4" drill through it? Radar does some damn nice work. Glad things went well - but wheres the pics????????

I have installed the set of red bases on my 02 RED. I like the look. Heres a couple shots: The red is not Honda red - but it looks great. I have one complete set of Radars BLACK bases, and sliders - along with everything needed - if there is anyone that needs them. PM me, and we'll work out the details to get them to you. You will be paying Darren, I'm just a distribution centre.......

THanks Ron! I called a couple more big name auto parts stores - NAPA for example. THey do not have a part listed for the 7443 in amber. I called a HOnda Bike dealer and they have them in stock for $5.00 a piece. Guess I 'll have to go to a dealer to get them, as they don't seem to have hit the aftermarket here yet.

NIce modification!!! :thumbsup: SPeaking of Fixer - where is the Bastage? I thought he would be all over this one - his effects of getting a Stinky Inline 4 will resonate for years to come... MErcy - BLA must be having convulsions about mixing stock parts from an I4 onto a V4 bike...... :joystick:

I've hooked up with a steel fabricator/manufacturer that will make me up some sets of the Top box brackets that I have on my 02. For now - there is a "prototype" set made that I have yet to look at, but I'm sure the quality is excellent. These brackets fit on top of the grab handles on a 6th Gen, and allow you to mount a GIVI type base plate to it - and then the topbox that mounts to the base. The brackets allow the seat and cowl to be removed without having to take the brackets off - access to tool kit, battery - etc - is unaffected. Looks something like this: The benefit of this set up is that the weight of the topbox and contents is now repositioned above the pillion seat - versus hanging out back with the standard rack setup. The downside to this bracket set up is that you lose the pillion seat. For me it isn't an issue. Here's a couple shots of the raw brackets from my mod of last year. These brackets were not yet cleaned up and painted. The ones I'm having made will be painted gloss black, or will be powder coated - not sure of the cost on powder coating. I'm trying to gauge interest so I can plan on how many sets to build. The brackets will not have drill holes for the base plates - as I do not want to "commit" that every user will have a GIVI system. This shouldn't be a problem, as it is simply a matter of attaching the brackets, laying the base plate on the brackets, marking the holes and then drilling them. Price is $83.00 USD including shipping in Canada or the USA. Other countries I'll be happy to get you actual shipping prices. (Base price for the brackets is $75.00USD - but to make it simple I added in $8.00 for shipping). IF you are interested in a set, please let me know. I have heard from two members in the last two days that want a set, so I thought I'd post this up for any others. Thanks! Ken SEE THE FULL THREAD AND FINISHED PRODUCT AT : http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=361551

THanks Trace. THe bottle isn't as tough to fix up as it appears at first. After cutting said notch in the bottle, I used a piece of scrap Polyethylene, and some Crazy Glue from Loctite designed for polyethylene - and it worked great. :thumbsup:

Drilling for Sliders I talked with RADAR tonight, and he asked me if I would mind condensing, and making the "how to install his sliders thread" a little more fluid and updated. The other thread I started is a great mix of what I did, and has a lot of good feedback from many folks here which is much appreciated!!! However, it is 4 pages long, and not as easy of a read as would be appreciated by many. So, the majority of what is in this thread, is from the original, but with all the updated information. Hope its helpful to those of you that have ordered a set. :thumbsup: Radars Sliders and Installation And how to drill your fairings without having a nervous breakdown. For product availability EMAIL RADAR AT : radar88ster AT gmail.com I was the test for Radars awesome sliders, and finally I got fed up with the cold and snow, and went into the garage for about an hour today. The results below are very good, and I think Radar (Darren) has hit a home run with the products he makes. Read on.. Its long and photo heavy - but I hope it explains how this was done, and the simple tools that were needed. 1) You will need to acquire the Basic goods from Radar (Darren in Saskatoon, Sk., Canada). Get yourself the slider mounts, the bolts, and the sliders themselves. The trick to this installation is based on two very simple yet custom turned centering plugs. These plugs fit snugly into the holes where the front engine bolt goes through. Darren turned these, and sends them with an o-ring installed to snug up the fit. 2) From your local hardware store, you need to pick up a few things. You will need an 18" long ¼"inch drill bit, a 1 1/8" hole saw, an arbor to hold the hole saw, as well as a length of ¼" drill rod. 3) Ok first things first. This would be a very easy install with an extra set of hands and eyes helping out, I flew solo on this cold winter day but it all worked out perfectly. Strip off the side fairings, and remove the coolant bottle. On the bottom of the coolant bottle is the spout that the hose attaches to cap that with a rubber cap so it doesn't leak out all over the floor. Put the coolant bottle out of the way for now. Back to this later. 4) Next remove the front engine bolt. This bolt passes from the left side of the frame, through a floating spacer/big ass washer, through the engine, and exits through the frame on the right side. You will need to take this bolt (which on 6th Gens is hollow) and get the inside tapped on both ends about an inch deep to fit the bolts that Darren sends. (I'll edit this after I get the exact specs back from Darren). This is ultimately where the Slider bases mount to the bike by far the strongest location on the bike. Heres the bolt after it is tapped. 5) Insert the Centering plugs into the holes from the engine bolt. The following picture has the drill bit going through the centering plug, but you get the idea. Spray some aerosol lubricant into the center of the centering plug it'll make the drilling go easier. 6) Now reinstall the right side fairing, and put the Honda securing bolts back in and tighten them up. You need the right side fairing to be held securely, as the first hole that is drilled, originates from the left side, and uses the 18" long ¼" drill bit. The drill bit is slid in through the centering plug on the left side, through the floating spacer/big ass washer – and then carefully through the right side centering plug. Hook up the bit to the drill, and take a deep breath. Get the drill going about half speed, and gently start to push it into the fairing. You may feel the drill skip depending on where its touching the inside of the fairing. Have your helper gently press against the fairing in the direction of the drill bit. The drill will pop through, and you should have a clean ¼" hole like this. 7) Now retract the 18" long drill bit, and get the 1 1/8" hole saw, and the length of drill rod. I had to buy 36 inches of drill rod so I left it that length. You could cut it down to 18" and be just fine. Install the drill rod onto the arbor for the hole saw. The arbor I used already had a ¼" centre drill bit in it, so I removed the drill bit and installed the drill rod. It is simply used to keep the hole saw cutting in a perfect circle as it is guided by the centering plugs on both ends. 8) From the RIGHT side of the bike, insert the drill rod through the already drilled ¼" hole, and get it through the engine, and out to the other side of the other centering plug. Heres what it looks like on the other side with the drill rod slipped through. Again get the drill spinning about half speed and with easy pressure cut the hole in the side of the fairing. The centering plugs will keep the hole saw from skipping or jumping. It only takes a few seconds, and you're through. One down, one to go!! 9) Now take off the right side fairing. You can take some fine sandpaper to the hole on the right fairing and gently clean up any plastic strings that didn't come off clean. (Leave it off for now as the engine bolt has to be re-installed.) 10) Before you re-install the left side fairing, prop something under the spacer (I used a pair of pliers). 11) From the RIGHT side of the bike, you slip the 18" long ¼" drill bit through the centering plug, through the engine and out through the left centering plug on the left side of the bike. Once the drill bit is just through the left side centering plug, re-install the left side fairing. This just makes it easier to guide the drill bit through all the holes, before it gets down to business. From here you are going to repeat the same steps as you took to do the right side drilling. Create the pilot ¼" hole on the left side, then using that pilot hole use the drill rod installed on the hole saw arbor, and make the second 1 1/8" hole. At the end of the drilling you will have two holes in the perfect locations for the sliders to be installed. After the left side holes are made, take off the left side fairing. I'll skip ahead and show you the steps to install the slider bases, and the sliders themselves. Using the magic of time lapse you have by now had your engine bolt tapped on both ends to accept the thread size of the bolts that come with Darrens kit. (Again I will edit this after I confirm with Darren what the exact thread size is I believe the finished kits have 5/16" Coarse thread bolts.) The machine shop that did the tapping for you, will also have to turn down the shoulder on one end of the engine bolt mounting nuts. I apologize I will have to edit this also after I get the correct size from Darren. This allows the slider base to slip over the tightened engine bolt without clearance issues. 12) Re-install the engine bolt. 13) Reinstall both left and right side fairings. 14) The threaded end of the slider base stays on the outside of the bike. Slip the bolt into the slider mounting base from the threaded end and it screws into the newly tapped and reinstalled engine bolt with a light amount of blue loctite. I'm unsure as to the torque value to apply I will edit with correct values. Then apply some blue loctite to the slider mounting base threads, and screw on the slider itself. Due to slight variations in bikes, you may need to install one or two washers on the inside of the plastic slider - before you screw it onto the base, to adjust the distance that the plastic slider is away from the fairing. I have two small washers installed in the right side plastic to make the slider come off the right side plastic the same amount as the left side plastic. Radar is including the washers to use, in each kit. Do the same on both sides, and enjoy your finished project!!! RADAR will be providing details of his kit, and it fits both 5th and 6th Gen VFRs. The coolant bottle needs to be cut and resealed - it needs to end up looking something like this:

real cool write up - makes me think about doing something similar. Thanks for sharing. I'll have to check out Slammers how to.... If I did this - I'd want the entire rime to be the base metal only - no paint. :thumbsup: