Mohawk

I guess that will be one of the very few compatible parts !

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

5th gen has defined balance, 6th gen has an equal balance. But I believe that a variation on the 5th gen theme is better using a lower figure for the cylinder with -20. A quick cost saving method is to use a twin gauge system. Calibrate both on the reference cylinder, then use the spare one to measure the other 3 cylinders. Mine revs so freely when set correctly 👍

I just checked my engine braking control settings. 0.02ms, +99%, disable engine braking management @2000rpm

Its been a long time since I set it, so will stick a computer on it tomorrow & find out.

Reducing the engine braking makes a real difference to smoothness of the off/on transition. I set it on mine & its great. Re the fuelling I have the latest Bosch wideband sensor & MTB & currently run it at 14.4/1 it runs really good & returns great MPG with no engine temp issues even in hot weather (up to 30c). YMMV 👍

Err appears I misread the request. Older bikes up until at least 6th gen had manual headlight switch well in Europe anyways. I hate my newer bike has lights always on for the sake of saving the manufacturer pennies to add a manual switch ! But I'm a dinosaur & disable all the lawyer based stand cutouts etc, solutions to problems that don't exist. Idiots do idiotic things, thats fine by me 😂

You need 2 relays. One normally open the other normally closed. Find the feed or return wire from the bulb you want to control & place both relays load circuits in series in the wire. Connect normally open control circuit to a switched circuit as in only powered when the ignition is on. Thus turn ignition on & the bulb will illuminate. Connect the normally closed control circuit to the starter relay circuit, such that when you press the starter button it will open & remove power to the bulb, freeing the juice for stating duty. When engine starts & starter button is released it will reconnect & power the bulb. Simples 😁👍

I thought he said he lost the coating from an avid bath some such so no loss of material. Over bored throttle bodies work just fine in bare alloy & as the VFR does not rely on the throttle plate for idle speed control due to the starter valves (that is what leads to the snatch off idle) either way I don't believe that coating is required. Alternately buy a second hand set of TB's they are cheap enough.

Why bother ? The coating it jjst to stop corrosion. Degrease & paint with alloy etch primer & a top coat.

I think there is still huge demand for touring motorcycles, but the punters have decided that "ADV" means tourer. Of the many ADV bikes I've seen used as tourers hardly any EVER get used off road, not even on gravel. I've seen many on tours that are cleaner than our road bikes which had seen some gravel roads. It seems after the CBR954 of 2002 the manufacturers gave up on lightweight & fell into the electronic trap that the whole world has. It they put all the funds they put into lightweight materials instead of electronics & programmers, the new Transalp would weigh 55kg less & be a truly excellent machine on & off road. But unfortunately it weighs the same as the VFR & Africa Twin, with less power. What makes a middleweight if its not lighter than the big bikes ? 🤷‍♀️☹️

Well there are still some excellent new V4's out there, but alas no Honda's anymore. As I have said many times Honda has been a car company for many years ☹️ The Africa Twin was only such a great success as it was IMO one of the best looking adventure bikes when it was launched. Thanks be to the smaller manufacturers that still do bikes 👍

5th Gen, 98-99 largest diameter headers, made in mild steel. No O2 sensors, no CAT. 00-01 slightly narrower headers, with 2x O2 bungs. Plus Cat also mild steel. Motad SS headers are copies of 98-99 models with O2 bungs. Can be used on all models which may explain finding a 99 with O2 bungs !

Now I have this crazy idea to put a 5th gen engine in a RVF400. 🤔 I had a guy measure the width between the frame rails & its just wide enough 😁

Depends on the size of the stones, fine gravel will fall through. But about 1/4-3/8" it can stick & sweep the rad face trapped by the blade. Makes a mess.

Remember if you put the blow through blade on you need to add a stone guard to stop stones getting caught between blade and rad, without it, a stone will eventually get in there & will trash the radiator when the fan spins.

When I rebuilt mine & changed the hose, it bled fine like I always do. Open the bleed nipple put a clear hose to a container on it. Pour brake fluid into MC reservoir & wait till it appears in the hose on the nipple. Nip up the nipple, then the secret sauce is to pull the lever just enough that the piston seal moves but does NOT cover fluid return hole. Keep wiggling & trapped air will come out of the fluid return hole. Once air stops try a full pull or a few to get pressure in the line, then do more wiggling. When happy line is full and no more air appears, do a full pull, hold it & open the bleed nipple, close nipple, release lever. Repeat until pure fluid comes out of the nipple. Job jobbed 👍 Took longer to write this than it does to do it.

Re heat & airflow, the air in the region behind the engine is very chaotic & negative pressure area. You need some cool air directed into the area to produce a positive pressure to displace the warm air being trapped there. Honda put NACA ducts on the 5th gens that pull air in from the flower fairing sides. On the right it passes to the upper area of the clutch cover towards the frame gap by cylinder #3. On the left behind the coolant overflow tank towards the shock. I have considered adding a small high flow fan on the left side to force feed cool air behind the engine. Anyone good with CFD ?

I have a hugger for my 5th gen, not fitted at the moment due to current rear tyre being a bit taller than the last & just rubbing on the hugger mount. So I've run it hard both with & without, not noticed any difference. I also have a dual skin alloy heat shield between the rear headers & the shock & a dual skin carbon/alloy heat shield in place of the stock Honda anchor plate. Keeps my right leg nice & heat free. YMMV

Any old sheet will improve its looks 😂

Over revved probably.

Do you know if the airbox flapper is still attached ? Plus the flapper vacuum control valve ? Is the pressure sensor MAF hose attached at rear right corner of the airbox ? Both of these T into the starter vacuum hoses. And are all 4 vacuum tap hoses attached to their blocking stubs on the sides of the airbox ?

If you think its a low battery, put lights on & if when relay clicks the dash lights dim out & sometimes the lcd too. Then you know its battery power. Put some jump leads on the battery from your car, if its starts OK its your battery.

If anyone wants those flange nuts, get a group buy going & if you cover post the postage to USA I'll accept them in UK & post them for you. Best if sent to one US location & then sent USPS from their 👍

Having used tapers for years. This is my advice. 1st ensure that the cones are seated home fully. Then ignore any torque setting numbers, they don't work with tapers. Best advice is tighten until you feel the steering start to drag. Then back off just enough such that the steering drag is gone & moves freely. Tighten the lock nut & job done. Works for Landrover hub bearings, so fine for bike head bearings loads.