NakedViffer

Superbike bars with some pullback risers have absolutely transformed my bike, it is more comfortable and easier to throw around in the corners. Probably the best mod yet.

I'll bet you my Miata faster I don't know, C6Z is a 10 second car on slicks, and will crack 190 out of the box, whats in your Miata 302?

Everyone knows Mobil-1 is the best, duh.

Don't worry too much about that. On the street, it's just for posers! Exactly, you'll know you're over far enough once you're dragging pegs.

Yeah, you'll need to disconnect your battery in order to weld on the frame. I would probably strip and remove the subframe from the bike, might be a little more work, but its the right way to do it, you'd have a hell of a time wrapping a bead all the around the tube with it installed. Not to mention your gonna want to strip the paint in the area and respray it to keep it from rusting, and then you don't have to worry about taping things up or overspray. Also, be prepared to install the bearings, its not just a drop in affair, you're gonna need to pound out the old seats, and press/pound in the new ones.

You failed at the internet... Take your pick. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=vfr+lockset&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=vfr+key+lock&_sacat=0

Your engine braking is harder at lower RPM than higher? Are you kidding me? This thread is starting to make my face hurt.

The thing to do on the stock stator connector, or any connector for that matter, is to de-pin them with a small pick. Then take some pliers and tighten down the female spade terminal, gives them a much better, tighter connection, I do this to almost all my connectors that use spade style pins. Also, I can't help but recommend the R1 MOSFET R/R some more.. This thing runs great, it barely gets warm, and I get a solid 14.4v to the battery no matter what rpm I am at. EDIT: I also like to de-pin the male side and scrub them down with a small wire brush for better contact.

You have toi remember that MFG specs for tire pressure is gonna be for the OE tires, different tires like different pressures. I Run 36 rear and 34 front also, and it seems to be the best pressure I've found on the Pilot Powers. I actually came upon those numbers by trial and error.

I've also got the same levers and I love them. Best $30 I've ever spent on the bike.

In my opinion, those tires are not ready to get pushed hard yet, I like to break ALL the wax off before I really trust it to push hard, because you can have the tire sticking great and as soon as you get over on the waxy part at a good clip it gets a little sketchy and makes you reluctant to push hard again. You could always spray some brake clean on a rag and take the wax off, I've heard people have fairly good results with that.

A nice example of why tires are sometimes called buns. I'm not sure it tyres are also called bums across the pond. I will remember your advice about Fannies in the UK though. LMAO at the fanny comment.

Man, those 1200 rear wheels really make me want to weld up a hub and re-drill it for that 5 bolt pattern.

These things are a big PITA, and will strand you if it goes out and you don't have the tools to remove and clean. Do your self a favor and cut the plug off, then jump green to green with a white stripe I think it is? And never have to worry about this ever again. Unless you are the guy that can't remember to put his kickstand up, but if you're that guy a cage might suit you better.

Those two pieces definitely fit together, its the bracketry to hold your choke cable in place, go take your carbs back apart.

I'm currently dealing with the same problem, but I do have 12v at the connector for the fan, so I'm assuming its the thermostatic switch. I just turn it off if I'm at a light more than a couple minutes. I don't have a temp gauge or warning lights so its kinda sketchy.. My temp gauge is my hand grabbing the right side radiator hose.

Yeah, I've always used the 2a setting on my automotive battery charger to charge my bike batteries, never had a problem. It is a smart charger though and shuts off when battery has a full charge.

Hey, thanks! Sorry I missed your comment, I haven't been keeping up as much as I should. You got a good looking bike there, does like quite a bit similar. Mine is the never ending project, I still want to swap to a late model aluminum sub-frame and tail, and also do a front-end conversion to something inverted and fully adjustable. Only thing is... Its gonna cost me about $1500 to do both of those, so they won't be in the budget till next spring I suppose. What kinda plans do you have for yours?

Slid forks up 3/4" yesterday and went for a ride, not much of a difference, initial turn in is a little faster, but its still not holding a tight enough circle, guess I'll keep going down.. I have a zip tie one one fork to reference my max travel so I'm not bumping parts. Oh and these EBC Double H pads are absolutely fantastic, they bite hard. Best pads I've ever owned.

I imagine its going to be fairly hot considering the winter we had this year, or lack thereof.. Past couple years have been trending that way. Its not really that bad though, every time I think its unbearable I end up spending a weekend in Florida and I'm instantly cured of complaining about home. Got my new, year old set of pilot powers broke in today. Rode about 2.5 hours and broke off all the wax, no chicken strips to be seen. I'm real happy with it, except its still going wide in the corners at full lean in the tight stuff around here and I really don't like it.. I really expected the new tires to correct it considering the horrible OE Kawasaki 650r tires I was running before. So I'm thinking about sliding the fork tubes up about 12 inches if you get my drift. I really hate losing ground clearance, but i need it to hold a tighter circle.. And just for the record I'm maxed out on lift in the rear already, at least without buying aftermarket parts.

If you're careful and the gasket isn't super bonded to the cover, you can usually save them and re-use them.

Barnett is great stuff and its reasonably priced. I wouldn't hesitate to buy.

Oh, and the Mosfet R1 R/R, let me tell you, doesn't even get warm, while the last stock honda one got warm as the engine did. This thing stays cold, it also hold a constant 14.4 volts from idle to redline.

Bike is RUNNING! Took it for a little shakedown up and down the driveway, running like a top, apparently all my harness upgrades went seamlessly, I was skeptical.. Not exactly a wiring master over here. Still need to tie up some loose ends, and I have the seat cowl off. I also have not got my 954 shock in because my town is worthless and nobody can put the new spring on. But I found a place to do it, so next time I have it apart I will get that swapped in. And something I wanted to add, I got away with using all stock length cables and brake lines for my superbike bar conversion, and they have quite a pull-back to them. I can sit up comfortable and reach the bars.. This mod changed the comfort level a LOT. I can't wait to get out and push some corners to see how they feel.

Actually I don't make a living as a mechanic anymore, and I would do a customers bike properly, I just know perfectly well that I can do the same job without the tool. Don't suppose everyone can, probably not the best advice I've given, but I've seen worse.