ShipFixer

Great news! 😄

Pascal's Law (P=F/A) is in effect here. But you are thinking of (A) as constant. In reality these three things are interrelated and change in reaction to one another. (A) increases in response to higher (P) as both the piston moves out and the cylinder lines expand (not to mention the caliper body bolts, or body in a single-piece). It diffuses some of the pressure you are creating through force at the master cylinder, and results in lower overall force at the piston. You can get to the same overall force with stretchy or stiff lines, but you will have to move the lever further for the softer lines until the forces are equalized and they are able to contain the force you want exerted at the piston. The more constant (A) is, or more accurately the more constrained the change in (A) is limited to piston movement, then the more the change in (P) will relate to the change in (F) at the caliper. We want (A) to remain fixed and change very little, except at the pistons. Another way to think about it is what happens when you have a leak, or you take the top off the reservoir, etc.? Well, (A) just went to infinity and at least in the static case, (F) is arbitrarily close to zero. We want (A) to change very little except at one or two places. So it's all about constraining (A). Very high end brakes aren't just SS lines, they are also very stiff "monoblock" construction calipers to constrain changes in (A). Think about the force exerted inside the caliper: in a two piece caliper, the force is essentially stretching the bolts holding the two halves together, whereas in a monoblock it's one big piece of metal that will be much, much stiffer and resistant to stretching.

You guys should see brake lines that are really worn out and feel them expand in your hand...it makes it much more obvious what's going on 😄 All materials in nature respond to force, pressure or otherwise. Even when you're pressing your hand against a wall. It may be imperceptible or trivial, but they do. In the case of brake lines, expansion of the brake lines under pressure reduces the overall pressure. This will reduce the overall pressure going to the piston and we'll feel it as "sponginess" or similar words. The ideal brake system has zero movement at the fluid boundaries except at the master cylinder and the piston. But that's impossible in the physical universe. So higher end brake systems will have higher degrees of stiffness at the boundaries, whether it's stiffer fluid lines, single piece vs. two piece calipers, etc. Anyway, yes...SS braided lines do increase overall force to the brake system and reduce sponginess. Whether it's a trivial or significant amount is both a math answer and a subjective one. I'm pretty happy with the stock 6th gen lines at 18 years old, although admittedly I'm not pushing them very hard. But I've changed lines on bikes that desperately needed it. My truck could really use some SS lines, along with a couple other things.

Sent!

Ok, let me dig through this thread and see who I need to contact for a deposit. Unless that person wants to contact me first 🙃

I just now noticed this thread. Is this still on? My VFR is about to pop out of a moving truck in San Diego too. I assume it would work with stock mufflers? Is a RB or PC necessary? Not like I couldn't get one at the same time, just curious.

It's strictly about noise and Honda going for overachiever status!

If by OEM, you mean the original Honda one...that plus your LED's could be the issue. But the VFRness should also help too.

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

New school regulator rectifier, or original?

^^^ This. I jumped on the chance to re-purchase the VFR I sold nine years ago because it was tuned for me, by me. The idea of buying a stock bike and even riding it for a bit before hitting the suspension mods hard has never, ever appealed to me since riding what I have. That being said, for the original post...when I've looked at front end conversion it falls under the column of "If you're riding hard enough for that to make a difference then you must be on a track." At the same time I can feel the difference between the 5th gen and moderately wider/stiffer 6th gen forks in street cornering so...YMMV. I do dump that kind of effort into my mountain bikes and adjustability for conditions and age of damping oil is a requirement, but I've just never seen it as worth the effort for the VFR on the street. I'm sure I would feel the difference, but I have tried to constrain myself to "80% is good enough" here 😄

I remember wondering about that due to the bad drawing in the tech manual, but at the same time I don't recall finding my stacks installed that way when I first took the bike apart. Its been a long time, but I'm pretty sure the length of the plastic differs front to back to make up for the difference in length in the intake runners below them. Anyone with a brand new VTEC want to take theirs apart for the first time to look, or does someone want to measure the difference between intake length in front and back? From an engineering standpoint, at lower RPM where you're having issues the stack placement shouldn't affect surging for two reasons. One is that the air is moving well below the point where the intake would experience sonic choking, and its way, way too short compared to diameter at too low of a speed for friction to be significant...so runner length doesn't matter. The second is that the plastic stack is upstream from the butterfly valve. If its not entirely or almost entirely open, its interfering with the flow (by design, fuel mixing needs turbulence) and so again, the runner length doesn't matter. This is why it doesn't matter that your airbox is discombobulated for the starter valve sync...air is too slow for significant friction or choking to occur anyway. Its also why your surging isn't entirely gone I would suspect that your bike might have new issues at or near full throttle with different intake lengths...assuming that you're not remembering original placement better than I am :unsure:

Hyperpro designs their springs to work with the stock weight and damping of the bike. It won't overwhelm the damper. While there's no such thing as critical, under, or over damping without the linear spring, you'll still tune to approximate it and you should have enough adjustment to get too much or too little unless your damper is already dead. I had no issues with mine. What you will notice if you ever ride a higher end shock is that the stock Honda damper is "backwards" in compression...it has lots of high speed compression damping and not enough low speed compression damping. Nothing you can really do about that...