Cogswell

Duc, What's the fate of your crashed G5? Is the 5th gen with the donor motor also going to donate parts to resurrect the crashed bike? Any pics of that?

Women want to smell like perfume . . . guys want to smell like 2 stroke exhaust!!

1970?

Hey teacher - call on me - I know the answer . . . ! LOL 1972 TS250 . . . Dang I wanted one of those - but couldn't afford it (and my father hated the idea). Ended up with a TC90 instead. Beat the tar out it - poor thing. It's probably been recycled in to a KIA or something by now. 1972 was the peak year for the styling on those - IMO the tank paint scheme that year was the best they did. Love those bikes!

Just guessing - the throttle seemed more like a lightswitch . . . ? These 'Zuks (380, 550 & 750) and the CB750 / 500 were drool worthy in their day. Strangely, I'm more drawn to the earlier versions with front drum brakes. I can't 'splain that one - sort of like taste in women - just what it is. Might have to pick one up as a project when there's more time in my days.

What a great photo of you on the Suzuki. It was all ahead of us when we were young. Is that a 550? It's air cooled so not a 750 and seems a bit large to be a 380. Despite technology making bikes so much better now, road bikes of that vintage have a certain appeal and magic about them absent today.

Wow - some really great albums of previous 2 wheel loves - I can't hold a candle. All my riding prior to V-4's was on dirt bikes and photos of those are long gone. I do have a couple of pics of my 4th gen - after I sold it the buyer took it to Texas and totaled it. She was a sweet bike - wish I'd kept it. The 2 Brothers slip on lives on with a high mount on my 5th gen I traded for.

...dont trust five year old rubbers. These cushion-drives were 22 years 'new'.... Sorry Dad....I should have listened... Pappy was right . . . trusting expired rubber can produce catastrophic results! LOL!

She's a beauty! Very tastefully done. She surely sounds delicious with that slip on. Would love to see some pics of your rides if you have any.

IMHO many bikes and even cars suffer from brake system neglect. I change out fluid on everything 2 wheels or 4 every 2 years whether it's driven much or not. My commuter car is a 1997 model Toyota. It has the original master and rear wheel cylinders and front calipers, now has 250,000 + miles. No leaks, no spongy pedal, still has good braking performance and in the snow / ice I've had the ABS cycle as it should. I probably should change out the hoses due to age, will get to that at the next brake service. Those degrade from the inside and can become constricted, possibly leading to the locking behavior, but it could be due to other things too. I don't think it's a stretch to guess that many bikes that are now well in to their 20's have very low miles (at least relative to similar age cars) and have never had a brake fluid service since they left the factory. Few miles ridden so still plenty of pad left so the owner figures that all is good. With the complexity of the linked system on 5th and 6th gens (and Blackbirds while I'm at it), clean fluid is even more crucial for proper operation. As always, YMMV.

You don't stop riding because you get old . . . you get old because you stop riding!

The way Millenials endlessly use the words "like", "right" and "I mean" in nearly every sentence (sometimes multiple times) drives me batshit crazy. I have to beat the crap out of myself to not to pick up the habit.

I'm not sure I can be of any help, but I would like to say that I'm digging the vibe of the gas mask headlight! Definitely not something you see everyday!

At work they tell us they want us all to strive to be above average - "top grading". In telling us that they prove the opposite . . . The most painful part of becoming a manager where I work is having the hole drilled in your head and having half your breaks sucked out.

WTF??? Through a city no less . . .

Unfortunately . . . those are links . . . to a website jay-d.com. The OP must have had these pics on a website that's no longer being maintained - going to the external link returns the dreaded "404 Not Found". The VFRD software must not display the error, just a blank page. You may be presuming that these photos were uploaded to VFRD, but from the looks of the links to a site it seems that's not the case. In that event, there's nothing here on the site that can be recovered. I wouldn't get too hung up on the photos - the text gives you plenty of detail and it's all referring to brake parts that are in plain sight. It might take re-reading more than if the pics were there, but it can be deciphered.

Mello, Isn't that the sight glass on the clutch cover?

So it sounds as though in the FSM they're specifying the range of watts draw to charge the battery, not the overall capacity of the system. Or, could it be the amount needed to charge the battery and run the basic systems - ignition, headlights, etc. ? It seems odd that the OP's question goes unaswered in the FSM - Honda seems very good about covering everything else.

I'm hoping to understand this a bit better . . . In the 3/4 FSM on page 15-5, it mentions that the regulated voltage should be 13.5 to 16V, and "Charging Current" is 5 to 9 Amps at 5,000 rpm. Does that imply that, of the stator's output, about 130 watts (14.5 x 9 - taking the typical regulated voltage times max current) is making it out of the R/R with the rest lost to heat at the R/R? Possibly similar to crankshaft and rear wheel horsepower - some loss in the system to get a net available number? Is that a proper interpretation? What is it Honda is telling us with those numbers? Maybe someone with better knowledge of power systems than I possess could shed some light on that. I've wondered similar - not just what can the stator put out but what is the net available to be drawn from the system.

It's unfortunate that some online platforms such as Amazon and ebay are not better policing many of their vendors adequately to keep counterfeit goods off their sites. Disposable batteries seem to be especially prone to that. I would think a vendor with their own site such as in this case would take more care not to tarnish their reputation with fake goods. They could just be closing out that item and clearing stock. It's definitely gotten more difficult online to tell what's what with name brand goods.

Unfortunately no delivery to overseas buyers. :(

To bmart's point, I think he's implying that you use the strap wrench to rotate the pipe to break the corrosion. Great idea. You don't want to bang on it too much and put dents in it - that will only make it worse. You could also break the clamp tabs off, but you probably won't be re-using it anyway. On re-assembly with your new pipe, some copper or better yet nickel anti-seize can go a long way towards preventing the issue in the future. I remove mine once a season to prevent the pieces from becoming too friendly.

So this is a long shot - no mention I could find of how it ever came out. But, desperate times call for desperate measures . . . On the Aug 16th post in this thread by damionj, https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95638-rescuing-a-92-vfr750f/page/4/ Mention is made of placing an order for a petcock from Japan from webike.net (link embedded in post) https://japan.webike.net/products/24659472.html Note that the part number is one of the two NLA petcocks listed in the fiche from Honda. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1991/vfr750f-a-vfr/fuel-tank Maybe send a PM to him and inquire if the part ever arrived. Who knows maybe the website was not updated for the NLA part, but maybe you get lucky. Alterantively, contact the site and inquire about availability. Shipping from Japan is probably steep, but if it's the only place to get it . . . If you post up your findings, some closure on this would probably be of interest to the 3rd gen community as these are a problem that leaves the bike a museum piece unless sorted. As for green carb gunk, maybe some additives were in the fuel or some weird reaction from the ethanol, or who knows . . . There are some other threads on here about carb revival and V4 dreams is also a good resource for resurrecting older bikes. https://v4dreams.com/index.html

Here it is - petcock looks just like yours. Reading the entire thread and looking at the photos, you'll get a flavor of how lucky you were to find such a pristine example. With so few 3rd gens still around, there just isn't a large enough market to make it worthwhile to manufacture a specific part such as that. Likely it will be DIY or get lucky to find one (or a whole tank) on ebay. Let us know how it works out. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95638-rescuing-a-92-vfr750f/page/5/

There was a thread I would guess between 1 and 2 years ago about this very thing on a 3rd gen - the petcock looked about like that and was unserviceable. After much searching he took a chance on a $25 ebay tank and it had a good one. As far as I know the petcocks are not interchangeable between generations, so it's hard to know what to do in that situation. I can't recall who posted that topic - I'll rummage around a bit and see if I can locate it. There were some ideas in it that might replace the petcock but were never needed after the replacement was found. Edit: This thread has a bike just like yours and how the owner solved the petcock problem - had a rusty tank, petcock was toast, NLA from Honda. But, I don't think this was the one I was looking for. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/96244-rescuing-a-91-vfr750f/page/5/