Cogswell

The unfortunate reality these days . . . if at all possible, I recommend DIY to everyone. There's more knowledge here than at most dealer shops.

Ask and ye shall receive . . . There was also a 6th gen version, as I recall it not have the external (black in the photo) portion - it just tucked up under the screen - I might be wrong about that. I'll see if I can find something. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/25621-5th-gen-bug-busters/ Edit: Here's the 6th gen iteration. The plastic mesh is easy to find - I've seen it used to cover gutters to keep leaves out. And wow, look at how minty-fresh that cam cover is on that then nearly-new 6th gen . . .

The creator, Rivcyko, did not I believe create or sell a lot of them. He also made fiberglass huggers. He made the last bugbuster probably 10or so years ago. He hasn't been active here for over 5 years now. If an owner has one and likes it, they're not likely to part with it. If the bike goes to the breaker, they likely won't even know what it and thus not offering it. It was nothing more than expanded plastic mesh which he formed and painted. Probably not all that hard a DIY project.

I believe your thinking of Kanadian Ken's Solo Rack for 5th and 6th gens. Nice piece of kit. AFAIK never made for 8th gen and no longer in production. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87933-kanadian-kens-solo-rack/

I did . . . it isn't that I don't like em, it's just that I'm smitten with the SSSA formula. Particularly the 3rd gen. I do respect the earlier gens and enjoy seeing them and am always pleased to see when an owner is preserving / restoring one.

If I won the lottery, I'd be a collector of 3rd though 6th gen and 8th gens, and would have one in every color. If I count correctly that would be 19 in all. My favorite is the '91 with gold wheels and ironically one of my least favorite is the '08 silver that I own. That would be some significant MBD . . .

That's one heck of a V-Day present. It must be true love on more than one front . . . bike and spouse. Regarding names, before I bought my 5th gen new in '99, I had read just about every review of it in Cycle World, Motorcyclist or any other mag I could find. In one of the articles the author mentioned that he thought the red color looked the same as Marilyn Monroe's lipstick. Whilst trailering 'er home, I looked in the mirror and seeing that gleaming new red, I recalled that article and then and there the name stuck - ever since it's been "Marilyn".

Just promise to cancel all motorcycle debt - you'll win for sure!

When I bought my 5th gen new in '99, I really wanted a red one, so searched all over and ended up finding one about 200 miles away just as the 2000's were hitting showroom floors. I was in a rush because I really did not want the yellow on the Y2K's. At the time I had no idea about the cat, wax unit and other things that changed on the 2000, but I really didn't like the yellow. Now that time has passed, the yellow has grown on me - I've come to like it a lot. It's unique as a one year only color, not to be seen before or after that year. There's one for sale about 150 miles away. If I were going to have a 3rd VFR I might go check it out.

Hey Skids. Sorry that's giving you so much grief. Other than Grum's idea of cinching it down tighter, nothing other than it not being made to the proper spec or a manufacturing defect comes to mind. Were you able to reach anyone at HEL to see if they have any ideas?

That is, IMHO, a much better design than earlier gens. But, they all seem to work. YMMV

I've thought about drilling the heads and safety wiring the bolts rather than using thread lock, but never have gotten around to it. Unfortunately that's not an option on the SMC side caliper on LBS bikes. I sometimes cringe a bit at running a tap through the aluminum boss to clean out the old thread lock compound. It seems as though Honda could have designed the system so that bosses on the forks take the braking stresses directly and the bolts only retain the caliper to the boss rather than placing the forces on the bolts themselves. As pointed out though, I also don't ever recall of a failure due to a failed bolt or one backing out. Even if a bolt did back out it would be so obvious that anyone couldn't help but notice. But it takes just once . . .

And every bolt gets its own serial number!

I mean besides that mystery thing in my fridge that's been looking back at me for a few weeks . . . On this forum now it seems everyone is assigned a "rank". Like in the military? Or? Besides not bathing, there seems to be no knowing what the qualifications are to achieve "rank". Does anyone know what the hell that means - and should or does anyone care?

The link below has an in depth discussion from 2009 about SSS wheel fitment. Regardless, 2nd gens' double sided swingarms are not going to be compatible with the SSS rear wheels from 1990 on. Is there more to the story - maybe swingarm swap or something? https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/49611-rear-wheelstires-the-end-all-discussion/&_fromLogin=1

Lawyers?

That's great that another will be back on the road. Post up some pics when you have a chance.

There are PC maps for download in the downloads forum here, and Dynojet also has many available on their website. All are free. One here frequently used is Cozyes map. They're easy to change so you can keep trying ones until you find one you like for your setup.

The bike to bike variation in symptoms is indeed a mystery. Some swear by removing the PAIR system. Until last year my PAIR system was in place and caused no issues whatsoever. When the reed valves came out, they were just slightly tan from being exposed to oil over 30,000+ miles, while photos of other reed valves show them to be clogged with gunk. I can't ever recall any common thread between the bikes that had surging / stumbling / snatchy throttle issues and the ones that don't. Either way, a PC III and now Rapid Bike have mine running fine. I never did try the key on / key off to fool the ECU. Probably should have tried it.

What you're running in to is why so many have a PC III / V or a Rapid Bike on their 6th gens. Eliminating the O2 sensors will leave the ECU with no input signal about fuel mixture. You'll jump the wires at the connector with a 330 ohm resistor to make the ECU think it has an input signal, albeit a non-changing one. It will have a set program for that, which could end up being way too rich vs too lean. You might find poor fuel economy, fouled plugs or other undersireable symptoms from doing that. The PC or RB is used to smooth out the low speed fueling to make it run more like a well tuned carb'd bike, but in the case of PC you need the eliminators so that it can make adjustments and not have them contradicted by the ECU trying to do the same. RB is different (with the My Tuning BIke) in that it does use the stock O2 sensors along with a 3rd (added) wideband sensor to make mixture adjustments on the fly. Either system will smooth out the low speed on/off throttle abruptness.

I just noticed that you have ABS. Nice score! I might add that the tough part of changing fluid on these is the secondary master cylinder (SMC) and the proportioning control valves (PCV). If you don't know the trick to it you'll think it's possessed by demons. If you do know the trick to it (in the guide), you'll wonder why anyone ever thought it was a big deal. And, there's no difference between ABS or not in the procedure. Anyway - definitely an oft overlooked and highly beneficial bit of maintenance.

They are nasty little F'rs, aren't they? Love the candy red! As for brakes, there is an excellent how to pinned in the maintenance forums. It's a highly recommended service, as neglect can wreak havoc on the linked system. If the secondary master cylinder clogs, it can cause the rear brake to drag - can be a problem. If you need assistance with that, lots of help here for you.

Welcome aboard. Mite check your spam folder for emails - never know. We're all in to bike porn here - as Skids mentioned - photos always appreciated!

Be careful not to crank it down too tight all at once - the tubing flare can split. Just sneak up on it a bit at a time until the leak stops. If you get to refusal and it's still leaking, maybe the fittings are not compatible for whatever reason. Be sure to use a tubing wrench - an open end wrench can very well round off the tubing nut when getting to where it's tight enough.