Rush2112

I hear Neil Ellwoood Peart is a big fan of bikes... I'm sure he would love yours! May not suit his touring lifestyle, but hey, you never know... take a spin past YYZ and see if he's around, you're not TOO far...

AWESOME DUDE!!! Well deserved for such a fine piece of craftsmanship...

It was 104F outside temp on the ride down... I think it was 102F the day the bike started overheating stopped at a light on the ride back, coolant didn't puke out, everything was filled to spec with approved fluids. I had it idling while BR gassed up because I was having battery issues and was trying to make it back to Nashville. Jumped back on the highway and it cooled back to normal operating temps... normal for 100+F riding. My concern was the low wear protection rating for Rotella T6 5w40 at 230F, I don't know how low it got with an oil temp 275F or higher when my coolant reached 250F... it was changed after the trip and I didn't get a UOA. M1 5w30 still measures good wear protection even at 275*F, an added level of security and piece of mind.

Was that in a motorcycle engine or car? ... Neither... motor oil Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load at operating oil temp of 230°F The Wear Protection reference categories are: • Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection. • 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection. • 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection. • 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection. • Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection Rank #4. 5W30 Mobil 1, Advanced Full Synthetic = 117,799 psi … also tested this oil at the much higher temperature of 275°F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. And this oil did have a disappointing 36% drop in capability. At that reduced value down to 75,861 psi, this much hotter and thinner oil dropped down to the GOOD Wear Protection Category. You can avoid such a drop in capability by keeping the oil at a more reasonable cooler temperature. … 138 oils tested later Rank #142. 5W40 SHELL ROTELLA T6 Diesel Oil, synthetic = 67,804 psi So, even at 275°F M1 5W30 has better wear protection than 5w40 T6 at 230°F This is why I switched. When I was following BR home from the AMA Superbike races in Birmingham my bike coolant temp peaked at a blinking 250°F at a light after we got gas... I was running T6 at the time and engine oil is usually ~20° or more hotter than your coolant, so after reading this data I'm afraid of how low my wear protection dropped on that trip.

I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

Very cool Dutchy! I've thought about doing something similar and you made it look so easy I guess I have no excuse...

Yeah, just need to put a 6th gen lower cushion on the 5th gen... some differences in the swingarm pivot bolt end nut but still an easy swap. I did it on my track bike project.

It looks like he bought an 8th gen foot peg bracket (QS style) and mounted it to his 6th gen lower cushion that is grafted onto a 5th gen VFR. Brilliant! Details on what shift lever and and push rod are being used is lacking and I would LOVE to have more info please!!!

Odometers are generally more accurate because of mileage warranties, reads low they lose money, reads high they get sued and lose money; speedometers usually read higher than actual because of liability, you'll never get in trouble for showing someone speed as high, show someones speed as low and they crash or get a ticket and the manufacturer gets sued and lose money... it's driven by money and legal ramifications.

Thanks for this bit of info... I accidentally backed one of these out when I was looking for an antifreeze drain when I first got my Y2K VFR800. It's on the lower part of the front of that engine. Great thread and what a piece of history... Good luck!

I installed a LSL kit. The new ST1100 cables I used on my 5th gen are too tight and rub on the inside of the right fairing... I need to re-drill the handlebar alignment hole and try to re-align so their is no interference. I would have liked to use slightly longer cables; the ST1100 are longer than stock 5th gen cables... I don't know if the ST1300 is a bit longer than the 1100.

I'm sure a few members are using them. It's been around a few years. I just thought it was time to give it a proper review on its own thread while the install was fresh on my mind. If you do a full search, it has only been mentioned 5 or 6 times and those posts have almost no detailed info in them. I've got one on my 5th gen, located under the seat by the left side of the battery. Works great... set it and forget it years ago. Speedometer is dead on based on GPS and Doppler radar confirmation. I thought I had written a short write-up on it back then but it may have just been another comment in a thread... kinda like this one

... Not a whole lot of drive shaft failures happening so I suspect this may have gone completely unnoticed had Honda not issued the recall. ... There have been reports of drive shaft failures on the 7th gens and the hard time riders were having with Honda replacing under warranty... especially on the European sites.

It was a while ago, but I did print these out on a 3D printer and even posted about it. I used the CAD file Greg has to print them. mostly as a proof of concept, rather than for actual use. My business partner is the one who knows more about the different 3D printing materials and was the one who printed them. If I remember correctly, PLA was better than ABS, especially if it was going to be exposed to the Sun quite a bit, as it is more UV resistant. How did the printed versions work? Any issues or call outs?

Ok... it was just a thought. I saw a decent 3D printer on sale and with materials could make 10 sets for $100/set and have everything paid for... with the heated part platform and CF PLA printer feedstock users reported excellent layer adhesion and structural integrity, figured as long as there wasn't too much shear it may be a suitable material... definitely would require careful, precise torque application or aluminum tube bolt hole supports.