Rush2112

Hi Rush2112, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Wow! It's like looking in a mirror... that sounds just like me

I'm in for a set of 5th gen if there is a group buy...

I also received a refund for the difference between full price and our package deal.

Exactly which email did you use? I have had no response yet this side of the pond. I messaged the CEO since he joined our forum... he forwarded my email to the following person: Amie B. <amie@fusar.com> Try her first; she has been very helpful and responsive to every question I had.

Just got my swag bag today.... decisions, decisions... and I agree, Rob... their responsiveness is impressive. Hopefully, it is a company trait they value and will continue to excel at it!

8th gen rearsets for the optional quickshifter should work for Honda stuff... Sato rearsets for aftermarket.

If they hit their current ship by dates these will be available for TMAC! ... and I never said I was going to be in the G-string & halter top

FYI - I contacted Fusar since I hadn't received any swag and I am thinking of crazy ways to wear it for the contest... may involve cutting into a halter top, stripper pole, & a G-string... I received some updated info: I can assure you we're doing everything we can to stay on schedule, and as a gesture of good faith, I'll personally keep you updated on the status of your orders, and as always, don't hesitate to reach out if there's anything I can answer for you. Right now, Handlebar BRC and Headsets will be shipping in mid to late April, and I will keep you posted. ... Wrist BRC's will be shipping in June. Looks like they are ahead of schedule since the original ship dates were July, weren't they?

The problem I see with the standoffs is that it pushes the whole thing away and off the plug. Normally the rubber end of the CoP is a snug fit around the plug and keeping it sealed. With the standoff you won't have that seal and more chance of problems if anything gets past the upper seal. Not saying you will have problems, but it's something to be aware of. I have also become aware that some VFRs use plugs with the exposed screw thread at the top and others use a plug with a solid top and any cap or CoP is only going to really fit properly on the plug type for which it was designed. Otherwise it will either not actually clip on or will be loose. Maybe these differences only apply to later VFRs already with CoPs and so fitting CoPs to earlier bikes shouldn't have this problem, but if the plugs have also been changed... It might be an idea if thinking of doing this, to be sure the top of the plug is compatible with the CoP being installed. Finally, I think the primary connections ARE polarity conscious. Get it wrong and I cannot but think it will fail to work correctly as the HT from the secondary coil will be trying to find ground through the primary. The negative side (earth) of both primary and secondary coils must be connected together. The secondary coli MUST be connected at both ends or current cannot flow. The high side is to ground via the plug (and the spark), but the low side has to be connected to ground to complete the circuit and without any other possible route, it must use the same ground terminal as the low side of the primary. At least, that's how I see it. If anyone thinks differently, please chime in. If you pick up an '08 CBR1k coil wire harness (~$20 USD on eBay) the wire color coding matches the 5th gen VFR and you can wire it directly into the VFR harness with no issues. I've put thousands of miles on mine with no issues. PS: the '08 CBR1k COPs have a silver metallic body as opposed to the black plastic ones and they were long enough for the VFR plugs... fits nice and snug in the hole just like Gig said. Slid my bike into a gully and the fan + lights connections got screwed up... COPs, no problem... kept right on sparking away.

The problem I see with the standoffs is that it pushes the whole thing away and off the plug. Normally the rubber end of the CoP is a snug fit around the plug and keeping it sealed. With the standoff you won't have that seal and more chance of problems if anything gets past the upper seal. Not saying you will have problems, but it's something to be aware of. I have also become aware that some VFRs use plugs with the exposed screw thread at the top and others use a plug with a solid top and any cap or CoP is only going to really fit properly on the plug type for which it was designed. Otherwise it will either not actually clip on or will be loose. Maybe these differences only apply to later VFRs already with CoPs and so fitting CoPs to earlier bikes shouldn't have this problem, but if the plugs have also been changed... It might be an idea if thinking of doing this, to be sure the top of the plug is compatible with the CoP being installed. Finally, I think the primary connections ARE polarity conscious. Get it wrong and I cannot but think it will fail to work correctly as the HT from the secondary coil will be trying to find ground through the primary. The negative side (earth) of both primary and secondary coils must be connected together. The secondary coli MUST be connected at both ends or current cannot flow. The high side is to ground via the plug (and the spark), but the low side has to be connected to ground to complete the circuit and without any other possible route, it must use the same ground terminal as the low side of the primary. At least, that's how I see it. If anyone thinks differently, please chime in. If you pick up an '08 CBR1k coil wire harness (~$20 USD on eBay) the wire color coding matches the 5th gen VFR and you can wire it directly into the VFR harness with no issues. I've put thousands of miles on mine with no issues.

I'm interested.

I hear Neil Ellwoood Peart is a big fan of bikes... I'm sure he would love yours! May not suit his touring lifestyle, but hey, you never know... take a spin past YYZ and see if he's around, you're not TOO far...

AWESOME DUDE!!! Well deserved for such a fine piece of craftsmanship...

I haven't gotten anything, and I followed up because I got another email and they were asking for a survey response...

It was 104F outside temp on the ride down... I think it was 102F the day the bike started overheating stopped at a light on the ride back, coolant didn't puke out, everything was filled to spec with approved fluids. I had it idling while BR gassed up because I was having battery issues and was trying to make it back to Nashville. Jumped back on the highway and it cooled back to normal operating temps... normal for 100+F riding. My concern was the low wear protection rating for Rotella T6 5w40 at 230F, I don't know how low it got with an oil temp 275F or higher when my coolant reached 250F... it was changed after the trip and I didn't get a UOA. M1 5w30 still measures good wear protection even at 275*F, an added level of security and piece of mind.

Was that in a motorcycle engine or car? ... Neither... motor oil Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load at operating oil temp of 230°F The Wear Protection reference categories are: • Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection. • 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection. • 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection. • 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection. • Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection Rank #4. 5W30 Mobil 1, Advanced Full Synthetic = 117,799 psi … also tested this oil at the much higher temperature of 275°F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. And this oil did have a disappointing 36% drop in capability. At that reduced value down to 75,861 psi, this much hotter and thinner oil dropped down to the GOOD Wear Protection Category. You can avoid such a drop in capability by keeping the oil at a more reasonable cooler temperature. … 138 oils tested later Rank #142. 5W40 SHELL ROTELLA T6 Diesel Oil, synthetic = 67,804 psi So, even at 275°F M1 5W30 has better wear protection than 5w40 T6 at 230°F This is why I switched. When I was following BR home from the AMA Superbike races in Birmingham my bike coolant temp peaked at a blinking 250°F at a light after we got gas... I was running T6 at the time and engine oil is usually ~20° or more hotter than your coolant, so after reading this data I'm afraid of how low my wear protection dropped on that trip.

I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

Very cool Dutchy! I've thought about doing something similar and you made it look so easy I guess I have no excuse...

Yeah, just need to put a 6th gen lower cushion on the 5th gen... some differences in the swingarm pivot bolt end nut but still an easy swap. I did it on my track bike project.

It looks like he bought an 8th gen foot peg bracket (QS style) and mounted it to his 6th gen lower cushion that is grafted onto a 5th gen VFR. Brilliant! Details on what shift lever and and push rod are being used is lacking and I would LOVE to have more info please!!!

Odometers are generally more accurate because of mileage warranties, reads low they lose money, reads high they get sued and lose money; speedometers usually read higher than actual because of liability, you'll never get in trouble for showing someone speed as high, show someones speed as low and they crash or get a ticket and the manufacturer gets sued and lose money... it's driven by money and legal ramifications.