CandyRedRC46

So where are we now?? Update please!!!

Traction control Engine braking control (fuel cut eliminator) Quick shifter control Air fuel ratio read out and on the fly target control Launch control Rpm and throttle position read out (on fly by wire bikes this works as cruise control too) I'm not going to try and sell you guys on traction control for a 100 HP bike, but launch control is f$%&ing awesome! And everything else functions marvelously. I never needed to do any dyno work, as my bike is now auto tuning. But if anyone wants to meet me at a dyno shop in the central Florida area for a baseline run, I would be more than happy to do some pulls and post up the numbers for you guys.

Exactly Reflash /thread

bazzaz z bomb or reflash /thread

Nice! Can we get more pics or a link to a build?

Look what I just got [emoji2]

Its not the same. As the engine will rev up more freely in the lower gears than the taller gears. That is why a worn clutch is so noticeable in 6th gear. It takes much more torque to accelerate the bike in taller gears than shorter gears. i.e. more torque, more of a load.

Swag

Windows 8 compatibility stuff? i really don't know this one... Can you load individual maps for each cylinder even if you don't have 4 MTBs? If yes, then couldn't I allow the RB Race to collect data and develop an adjustment table but only load that adjustment map into the desired cylinder? I don't mind riding 1,000 miles to save $1,000... I've got two 5th gens I'm trying to work with... I appreciate your offer to share your map but with your mods and different gen we really are talking apples & oranges here... I would call Yaman on the phone and speak to him directly. I'm almost positive that Yaman and I had this same conversation prior to me buying the kit and it wasn't possible.

No, I talked to Yaman about this already. The rapid bike evo and racing come defaulted for 2 narrow band factory sensors (left bank and right bank). Then if you use my tuning bike, you must select to run 1, 2 or 4 wide band o2 sensor mode. All the o2 sensors piggy back into each other, so if you want to run 4 wide band o2 sensor mode (where you can tune each cylinder individually) the rapid bike needs to be able to recognize that all four MTB's are present. Trust me I wanted to do it this way, because buying 4 MTB's was expensive, but even if you could tune one at a time, it would take forever and as you tuned one cylinder to be optimal the other three would indirectly be tuning to be less optimal. You would be running around in circles forever.... Honestly I would be more than happy to give you guys my map to save you the money and trouble, but I have a full race header and over bore throttle bodies so my tuning is wayyyy off. But I will be more than happy to lend a hand and tuning advice :)

~Swag~

The ignition and fueling mapping is pretty much spot on. So I would set the maximum allowable changes at +/-5%. Plug your factory o2 sensors back into the headers and piggy back the rapid bike in between. Then ride around for at least 200 miles before applying corrections. Try to emphasize high way miles with some good high load pulls.

I am not sure what you mean by short runs at high revs, but taller gears and highway pulls will net the best results. The group buy (separate harness and modules) has been over for a while. Here is the whole kit: http://rapidbike.us/products/rb-racing-honda-vfr800-02-09

taller gears are your friend.....

One thing that I am looking into is using the Dimsport map switch, to turn off the my tuning bike during not optimal tuning conditions, like when the bike isn't in the optimal 175 degrees F- 195 degrees F range, and or sitting in traffic heat soaking, and or still warming up etc.... This would insure much more consistent data gathering and therefore more precise tuning. This isn't necessary, but I have a habit of going overboard for perfection.

Lol this is too funny

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying. Congrats and have fun!

No dyno results yet. This is finals week at school. I'll have more time to mess around with stuff in a few weeks. But, I have ironed out all the kinks since installing the over bore throttlebodies. And the bike is running supper effing smooth right now. Zero surging. 0%-10% throttle is finally perfect. And the VTEC transition is only perceivable through sound. No holes or peaks anywhere in the power band. Starts first time. High idles like a champ and settles down by 150F. I am really happy with the out come. But I do want to verify the results just as much as you guys. So I'll try to get it on the dyno and verify the a/f ratios for all individual cylinders through the rev and throttle ranges. I can say that my idea of setting everything plus 20% after fitting the overbore throttle bodies was a bad idea and was a major set back. The throttlebodies are not as much of a bottle neck as I was hoping they would be. Well at least with stock heads and cams. I am sure they will benefit greatly with port and polished heads with big cams.

I went to a 1 down in front from 30,000-55,000 miles and it was great. Highway still okay(indicated 80 is only 70), but pulled hard everywhere. Then I pulled some more power out of the bike and switched between -1/+3 and -1/+0 on and off for the last 10,000 miles or so. -1/+3 is ridiculous. It wheelies with the slightest thought anywhere in first, and with a tad of effort in 2nd and will carry the front tire through fourth no problem. Every gear pulls stupid hard and there really isn't any need for down shifting for passes. 6th gear pulls all the way to redline (an indicated but not real 184). First gear is optional and it pulls second from a stop with zero effort. Only down side is constantly searching for sixth gear as you're in VTEC on the highway to keep ahead of traffic, but man rolling into the gas from an indicated 100 shows big numbers really fast (again I'm am aware that the ratio is off by an indicated 65 only resulting in a real life 55... Or 55/65). Well recently I've been doing a lot of high speed highway riding and was feeling bad for the bike so I did a +1 in front with standard rear. It will pull from a stop in first fine but just requires a little more love from the clutch, especially if leaving in second. Rolling on hard doesn't produce stupid dramatic wheelies anymore, instead you are given a nice slow graceful rise at 7000 that is easily modulated. Second will never clutch up again, but if you are already up a foot or so off the ground in first and quick shift into second it will continue lifting through second and even third with enough determination. Fourth, I'm not going to try as that would require a ridiculously high angle and mph to maintain. Anyways, with the +1 front/standard rear, I do constantly find myself searching for first when coming to a stop, just as I did looking for sixth when I had the one down three up, but now sixth gear is completely an overdrive gear. Sixth doesn't really pull with any urgency like it used to, but passing traffic on the turnpike at only 5000 RPMs sure is nice. Funny thing now is sometimes I find myself on the highway for five or ten minutes in fifth or sometimes even fourth before I realize I'm not in top gear lol.

Oh yeah. As soon as the hard coating wears through, they turn into butter.

Half of this rants don't even make sense. Like I deserved to get ripped off because I bought cheap sprockets. These sprockets actually cost about double what a quality DID kit costs.... But the promises of light weight and lifetime warranty made it sound like a good idea. Only after discovering that the sprockets and chains only last about 5000 miles and the warranty is bogus does this sound like a terrible idea. The under construction sign was not there a year ago when I ordered....

This is turning into a (removed) show. I was just trying to warn you guys to stay away from this company.

+1. I wouldn't give them a moment's consideration. Some of us adhere, regardless of pocketbooks, to the old standard: NEVER GO CHEAP on Chains, Brakes, Sprockets, or Tires. It wasn't going cheap. They are much more expensive than OEM. Your not going to beat the oem steel sprocket longevity(ever) its futile. Marketing and cool colors will not change that . Sidewinder built its reputation of T7076 aluminum sprockets, nice for weight but offer nothing compared to even cheap steel in longevity.Their whole argument was that their sprockets were manufactured out of titanium moly which was supposedly twice as hard as steel. But it was all bs.

I was just on a major quest to shed weight and the thought of never having to buy another sprocket again sold me.