FJ12Ryder

Especially cheap 12 point sockets. 🙂

Actually a straight extension doesn't affect torque settings. A universal extension is a different story if not used correctly. The main issue with extensions is that it's easy to not support the head of the torque wrench properly, thus applying a certain amount of sideways force. Properly supported, an extension will work just fine.

Using liquid threadlocker like LocTite, definitely reduces the amount of torque necessary to reach proper tightness. So if you put LocTite on the bolts, and tighten them to the stated torque settings you are over tightening them. Anything like antiseize will do the same thing. The liquid acts like a lubricant and requires refiguring the torque setting. I believe the setting is 23 lb.ft, and should be reduced probably by about 20%. if using a liquid locktite. Maybe 16-18 lb.ft. This is from Loctite: "The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values when using their liquid thread-locking compounds on threaded fasteners And don't forget torque settings should be reached while the torque wrench is turning. If you stop, then start turning the bolt/nut, and the torque wrench clicks, that is not the correct torque setting. The click should occur as the wrench is turning.

Okay, I kind of see what you're referring to, and I won't deny that hitting a bridge at 50 mph is potentially more lethal than at 20 mph. I guess I just bristle when they make the statement that slower is "safer" than faster, and they use that as an excuse to ticket you for being "unsafe", or as a reason to lower speed limits to unrealistic speeds.

You don't have to wait, think OnStar and LoJack. Heck people pay for the privilege of being tracked.

I've always felt more comfortable moving a bit faster than traffic, and getting stuck in clots of cars makes me very uncomfortable. I feel that moving a bit faster, maybe only a couple mph sometimes, allows me to act to avoid problems rather than re-act to an occurring problem.

"There is no getting around the fact that lower speeds are statistically safer" Surely you don't believe that! I want to see the study and parameters of that study. That ranks right up there with "Speed Kills" and "Just Say No". 🙂

Totally off topic, but many, many years ago you could buy 45 rpm records, remember those, of various motorcycles running the track. I had one of the six cylinder Honda 250 going by at full chat. Wowser, what a scream.

Always good to hear of a positive outcome to a problem. Thanks for getting back to everyone.

Just a couple of rebuttals: A regular air powered die grinder isn't much different in size from a Dremel. I have both. I'm not referring to a angle grinder. Basically all Dremel attachment will work with a die grinder since they generally use the same size collet. In fact the die grinder I have has interchangeable 1/8" and 1/4" collets. A decent die grinder is variable speed by nature. I do agree that the main drawback is the need for an air compressor. I maintain the air pressure in my air compressor so it's not a big deal for me. And if you don't have a fair sized air compressor it will draw down the pressure very quickly. The die grinder itself is no louder than a Dremel, but the compressor running kind of spoils the quiet. 🙂 Here's one very similar to what I have: Air Powered Die Grinder The main problem is the portability. You can use a Dremel anywhere there's electricity, the air powered, not so much.

A consideration is to use an air powered die grinder. You really need an air compressor anyway, and a good die grinder isn't very expensive and very little to go wrong with them. Hit them with some oil before using every time, and away you go. I have a $30 die grinder that's over 30 years old and still works excellently.

Just to be fair, it isn't an issue with just VFR owners. Every forum I belong to has the same issue: people post about a problem, ask for help, and then disappear. You never know if your advice helped or whether they solved their problem another way. Gets kind of frustrating after it happens a dozen times. Heck most of the time you don't know if they ever even read any of the responses.

I love 'em, my wife hates 'em. But I got used to them when I was stationed in Europe, so that may help explain the difference. I wonder if they're even mentioned in the drivers' license exam. In Missouri, they put a Yield sign for entering traffic, but just like everything else, it doesn't always work. But they beat the hell out of 4-way stops.

Very common with scooters. It shouldn't be too difficult to replumb.

The SpeedBleeders I bought had threadlocker already in place. And I've never had any issues with air getting past the threads or check valve. Adding teflon tape to a braking system, like wrapping bleeder screws is not a good idea. "Solo-Bleed is better than Speed Bleeders because the plunger is between thread-gaps and brakes. With Speed Bleeders, if you unscrew too far, you'll suck in air because the plunger is after the threads." But that's the very nice thing about SpeedBleeders: you don't have to unscrew them much at all. And you don't need any other tools. Just squeeze the lever. Works a treat. Solo-Bleed looks like they would work okay too.

Pneumatic or vacuum bleeders only work well if you can get the bleeder screws to seal. Otherwise air just leaks past the bleeder threads. I used a MityVac for a while, but honestly, the SpeedBleeders work better with less hassle.

Price seems reasonable, maybe more than reasonable considering all the extras, not too crazy about the paint job, and your fonts need serious work Gray over black seriously sucks.

I put button head bolts in my anchors.

Short answer: Yes. The front wheel only has to drop a couple inches to clear. If it comes down far enough, you only need to remove one caliper to get it out. Removing both makes it a bit is easier, though.

I use the PitBull stands for the front, but when it wasn't handy, I just put an 80 pound, or so, sandbag on the passenger seat which lifted the front wheel, and then used a jack under the header. The jack had no weight on it, it was just insurance if something happened.

That is a great looking bike. Fastest color too. 🙂 JMO, but I think those numbers you posted aren't the date code. There should be 4 numbers in a smaller circle, maybe even raised numbers rather than indented like those. And they can be easy to overlook. And they should be by themselves. And I wouldn't go by the looks of the rear tire, I would also check the date code on it too. Better safe than sorry. 18,000 miles on a 23 year old bike could mean that it hasn't been ridden much, if any, since the rear tire was mounted. And that could easily have 5-6 years ago, or more. With 18,000 miles, that would most likely have been the third tire, so if he rode 10,000 miles the first 5 years, that means it was only ridden 8,000 miles over the next 18 years. One other thing worth doing, IMO anyway, is to replace the 23 year old rubber brake lines with new lines. And if you're going to do that, then stainless brake lines is the way to go. If you wrap your hand around the front brake line, then squeeze the brake, you'll be able to feel the line expand. Just like the rest of us, it gets softer when it ages. 🙂

Auto parts store, usually O'Reilly's.

Yep, I use the Purolator 1, long one. Not much bigger than OEM, but every little bit helps.

My preference for chain is DID. I usually get the oversize rear sprocket, 45 teeth, from Sprocket Center. Truth be told, I think if I were replacing chain and sprockets, I'd go with the 520 kit instead. The 530 chain is way overkill for the VFR.