Bren

Whatever you do don't torque them to the same as ball bearings, one owner many moons ago cracked his head doing exactly that. When I did mine I torqued them down to half the ball bearings value to seat them, then gave a few gentle turns for good measure. There was a lot of resistance. Then I backed the nut off completely and torqued again to a very low value, I want to say 9 ft/lbs but can't be 100% sure. I did the rest by "feel" (not helping I realise). Check for the whole lot flopping over to one side too easy, front wheel off the ground of course. It's easy to tell when they're too tight as they won't move much doing the procedure again and there will be a resistance you can feel. You're looking for the bars to move from center to the side with a gentle push, while not flopping over when you just lift the front off the ground. I think once you start doing it you'll feel the differences between loose and tight. Edit, if your not comfortable doing it get a mechanic to do it who will let you watch. You'll learn something new and be prepared for any adjustments in the future.

You would have enough power to keep it running with what you've got, the rectifier change is something for later. It just sounds like it's not getting fuel to me, or air. Would the ATF you sprayed the K&N be too thick and restricting air? You may have a kinked fuel hose from the tank that won't allow enough fuel to flow. As you just lifted the tank to get at the air filter this could have happened. Good luck with it.

Your voltage falling to 13.5 is the first suspect. Generally at 5000rpm with a good charging system you should have 14.4 ish. Get a FH020AA from a cbr500 or Yamaha and fit that, that'll fix your charging for a start. But why your engine only runs for short periods, that shouldn't have anything to do with the rectifier at that point because it's going off battery power anyway. Sounds like a fuel pump problem or pump power issue. It's not getting power to keep running. Did you check the fuse? 3 seconds or so priming is normal.

I've been following all along, just don't have anything to add like more knowledgeable members. Fantastic work. Please share how you got the clocks and surround so nice. Did the new sight glass come with the metal/chrome/ring thing? I ask as mine is scratched from my suboptimal painting attempt.

I have always just done the standard way which I'm sure you know already. I do the burp on an incline, front wheel higher up, side stand, cap off and rev rev rev. Rag to hand to catch the coolant splashes. Never had to squeeze hoses and the like that others mention.

Oops as Mello said AS3. I'm in Ireland on holidays so going off my Guinness fuelled memory. Good move to get them now before they stop producing them, only Samco after that and they are $$$$

Well I intend to get the RS3 hoses and keep them till I need them. I would be replacing seals 16, 17 & 18 when the time comes.

No worries, probably not a comprehensive list and there will be a few more points but that's all I can think of quickly. I would like to see your schedule when it's finished if you don't mind, always good to get more ideas. I wonder if the reason you and others needed shims replacing so regularly was because the valve springs were out of a slightly substandard batch which either weren't tensioned sufficiently or conversely over-tensioned requiring regular shim changes. Not sure just throwing it out there.

I would view the below as mileage items: Brake pads Chain and sprockets (keep lubed to ward off surface rust) Valve check - changes due to heat cycles and movement Time related: Oil Coolant Brake fluid Fork oil - 5 years? Clean electrical connectors - corrosion can still happen over time even without riding. Petrol tank - keep full to ward off rust and use fuel stabiliser. Injectors - can't hurt to use an injector cleaner to help keep them clean when riding. Tyres - after using 7 year old tyres I wouldn't again. Fit something sporty that will wear out before 5 years is reached. Get your moneys worth! Keep on stands to avoid flat spots. Battery - tender or swap in a battery from one of the others when you want to drive it, saves buying a battery that sits on a tender for most of its life. Mice protection - may not affect you, plug exhaust and airbox. Bodywork - keep covered with a soft cover even garaged. Detail and polish as the urge grabs you. ACF on metal fittings and fixings. Hoses - over time will get old and hard. Buy replacements now and hoard for later. Rear hub - may be prudent to strip and regrease and then move periodically to stop it seizing, grease gumming up (?) That's all I can think of right now but good advance thinking 👍

Glad I was, in a way, helpful 😅. Shoot a pic when done as I don't have a 6/8th gen so I don't really know how that all fits together.

I would use the HEL clip, with a rubber washer behind the fixing point, but bend it slightly outwards so the lines and clip aren't touching the mudguard. Then, using the same bolt and location for the brake line clamp, use a separate clip of the correct diameter for the ABS wire, would be fairly small. I cant see how you could reuse the OEM one as there is the brake line junction which with your new lines is no longer necessary. It would push everything outwards. Also where do you put a clip for the brake lines to stop them flapping about? If done right it would look smart.

As I said above, check the tracks on the back of the display! Known fault and known fix!

I adjust as I think right then sit on the bike and reach down to the chain. I check there is proper slack along the whole chain length, get my fingers covered in chain wax, try not to touch anything with my goopy fingers, get off, dont touch anything, roughly clean hand, adjust if necessary, check again, don't touch anything, scrub the rest of that crap off my hand and go ride. I really love a coating of chain wax inside my gloves, makes them slip on and off so easy! Works for me, sidestand or centre stand.

Does sound like one of the tracks on the back of the display has an intermittent fault, it is a fairly common issue on these bikes. Question, do you have the small cover plate under the front nose fairing? Many have been lost over time and never replaced. It's right over the front mudguard and water, moisture etc can get flung up there while driving. Sorry, but if i were you I'd be taking the front fairing off again and checking the tracks on the pcb for breaks, they can be bridged to fix them. Good luck.

That lock can come off, I took mine out and refitted it after powder coating. I don't remember if they're security bolts or not but just drill them out and use some bolts to replace the lock again. Can't help on the epoxy but I wouldn't think JB weld would be strong enough especially if the bags use that point.

It should be flat against the plate on the frame to allow any heat to soak into the frame. Some people have used thermal paste in there to increase the heat transfer. These RR's don't get so hot but still probably a good idea. Those numbers look perfect 👍

Bmart had problems recently with a Bitubo shock although different issues than yours but may indicate manufacturing issues.

Safe and happy trip! Not even a bit jealous 😢

Also as the yellow one is higher in the back maybe the PO put aftermarket triangles on to raise it? Do they have the part numbers stamped into them? Don't set it on fire, yet...

A lot of work but how about trying the Penske in the yellow bike to see if that fits on that one? It would rule out any kind of difference between the bikes if it goes in easy and fits properly. Pity about your troubles but maybe cancel the order due to so many issues and get another Penske or whatever?

I thought only the PC2 could adjust ignition timing. That's what I have for my 98 and when I got a custom map done, in 2002, the ignition was advanced (I think!) Don't know for sure about later versions but I remember reading that they can't, hopefully someone will know.

When I say straight, I mean as in not bent or damaged. The givi is quite high and air just hits the top of my visor depending how im sitting. Always different opinions on screens, what works for one doesn't always work for another. The MRA Vario screen with the adjustable wing bit looks like it would work well but I've never tried one.

My bad. Sorry to derail 😇

And then @SEBSPEED will announce a super charger run for the 5th gens and I'll be saying YES!! I need this!! But wife and kids will be saying NO! We need food 😄 I need a slush fund....

I did buy a chinesium double bubble in dark, dark, dark black some years ago and I was never sure I liked it. Also had troubles here with the dark, utterly black, tint for the mot/inspection. I view the DB screens as more inclined to supersports etc with chin on tank and all that = not how I ride anymore, those days are "mostly" gone. A lot of buffering at motorway speeds. It may have been the screen profile or it may just be that I'm progressing into that period of life known as grumpy old fart 😃 May hold some truth!